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  1. #51
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    tubeless, I run 22-24psi usually. Running 2.35 Bontrager XR4's now (they work pretty darn well around here BTW), but even with the 2.2 Conti Rubber Queen/Trail King's or 2.35 Nevegal's before that, that's where I was. I weigh around 180# and I'm riding 160mm full squish.

  2. #52
    I'm with stupid
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkaredShtles View Post
    Jeezus. That's a lot of effort for making a $hitty tire tolerable.
    True, but with a nice pair of dykes its a 1 or 2 beer job. Plus it helps kill off my bike ADD if I cut up and test some tires that I have laying around.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by kristian View Post
    I'm definitely a fan of tubeless, althoguh I haven't used them in sub freezing temps yet.
    Temps don't matter too much IN the tire, but the valve itself can have problems if you are running schrader. I have never had a preference in valves until I got dropped off at Pipeline trailhead and tried to drop a little air pressure. I was setup Ghetto with schrader. The Stan's at sub-freezing temps would not let my schrader valve spring to seal. I had to put my finger over the end of the valve and give the valve stem a handsey till it warmed up enough to stop leaking. I've been running presta valves for tubeless ever since. That said, I recommend buying the appropriate Stan's strip for tubeless conversions. They are more or less permanent (barring tearing out the valve) and burp less than just tape (unless you have rims with high shoulders like Stan's). Ghetto works fantastic but it is really hard to reuse them. I use tape on the Stan's rims for my XC bike and DH Stan's strips for whatever rims are currently on the DH bike (yes, it is a threaded metal schrader Stan's strip, but I rarely ride that bike in the winter).

    To ring in on the PSI conversation, I personally run 28 front, 33 rear. I'm a 160lb, full suspension, aggressive rider that opts to float over rocks without too much bashing. I run single ply tires and like to gap stuff. Any lower pressure and my tires get squirmy upon landings, little drainage crossings with G-outs, and high-G berm turns. In this area of the country you can't just set an edge for a corner and hope it holds, you have to keep you eyes up and look for a little dip or trail edge with a lip and pop your turns. If you can learn to turn on the gravel-over-hardpack around here, you will rip everywhere else.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikesBoardsBrews View Post
    ....can I run my Kenda Nevegals with the ghetto set up or do I need to buy tubeless tires?
    At our shop we sell and have tried to setup non-UST Kendas many many times. The sidewalls are too porous. The air and sealant leak out and never seal-up reliably.

    That is why Kenda offers 3 tires:
    Regular (that's not what they call it but you know what I mean)
    UST (the real deal UST standard)
    and Sealant compatible

    The "sealant compatible" version is what everyone else calls "tubeless ready". These and the UST will setup tubeless--Ghetto, Stan's strips, or full UST.

    That said, I am not a fan of those tires anyways...and it seems neither is anyone else around here unless painstakingly modified (HTRN )

    Shoot for a widely spaced and tall knobed setup with a good volume and you will be fine. I feel like the Nevagal is a little cramped and the center rolls slow.

  5. #55
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    Here are my two favorite resources I share with people that have a skewed sense of rolling resistance and how tire pressure affects it (they are mostly roadies). Really worth the read.

    www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf

    Rolling Resistance | Schwalbe North America

  6. #56
    Heads up Flyboy!!
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    I weigh 200 lbs and run Tubeless on a 29er. I consider myself an aggressive rider who likes the chunder and going fast when going downhill.

    In the rear I run a Specialized Captain Grid 2.25(preferred) or Captain Armadillo 2.25(if I can't find a Grid). I run these over the Controls due to the thicker casing. If not, I go through rear tires a lot. I like to run the rear tire between 25-27psi

    In the front I run a Specialized Purgatory Control 2.4. I run it around 20-24psi.

  7. #57
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    Well it seems like there are a bunch of different opinions on which tire is best. The Nevegals were fine for me riding in FL and TN but I can totally see why they are not up to par for CO. After the holidays I will totally be in the market for new rubber but for now I am going to ride them until they shred.

    BTW-with a little determination I was able to get the ghetto set up by using a floor pump, yeah, I am THAT good. LOL

    Although, I had to change methods and go with the 20" tube cut down the middle because even with a compressor I wasn't having any luck with the duct tape method. I rode around for a few minutes after I got the tire pumped up to try and get the Stans set in as good as I can...I guess we will see if it worked if the tire still has air in it tomorrow.

  8. #58
    bacon! bacon! bacon!
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikesBoardsBrews View Post
    Well it seems like there are a bunch of different opinions on which tire is best. The Nevegals were fine for me riding in FL and TN but I can totally see why they are not up to par for CO. After the holidays I will totally be in the market for new rubber but for now I am going to ride them until they shred.
    Don't worry - that won't take long.

  9. #59
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    Find the perfect rear PSI for a trail, and then run %93.75 of that in the front. Here is a table if you are not a mathmagician.

    Race Mojo Wheels | Read VitalMTB

  10. #60
    Kaj
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    I let a bit too much air out of my rear tire going down Pic rock a couple days ago. Then I burped it in a corner near the top. It had 12 PSI left when I got to the bottom.

    Am I lazy because I didn't bother to top it off, or do I just have mad skills because I had to corner with most of my weight on the front tire? No strava records where threatened.
    Helping folks shred in Boulder & Colorado since 1982 www.fullcyclebikes.com

  11. #61
    Does Not Belong on a Bike
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    I am a slug going up, but usually thrash the gnar going down; I run 40 PSI and tubes and only get flats when I run over junk like rusted out fencing staples that I can't see.

    Which tire is the best for front range riding with sunglasses at night?
    This is what happens when you find a stranger in the Alps!

  12. #62
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    So, as far as something with spaced high knobs.....any thoughts on these tires?

    Michelin Wild Dig'r Descent 26" Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    They seem a bit to DH/aggressive for what I think I'd like....maybe these:
    Michelin Wild GRIP'R2 Advanced 26" Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

  13. #63
    Trips for Kids Denver
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    I'm 170lbs without gear and run 28psi up front (Rumblefish 29er 2.4 Purgatory ust) and 30psi out back (2.2 Captain Control tlr)

    I'm really going to miss the Purgatory 2.4. I recently heard the big S stopped making the 2.4 Purg in 29er. Seems like everytime I fall in love with a tire it goes out of production!
    " I'm not inclined to resign to maturity "

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikesBoardsBrews View Post
    So, as far as something with spaced high knobs.....any thoughts on these tires?

    Michelin Wild Dig'r Descent 26" Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    They seem a bit to DH/aggressive for what I think I'd like....maybe these:
    Michelin Wild GRIP'R2 Advanced 26" Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Try a Bontrager XR4 in 2.35 up front... awesome volume and grip for the Front Range.

  15. #65
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    I run 5.0 Psi front and 7.5 Psi rear

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  16. #66
    bacon! bacon! bacon!
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    Which is fine 'cause you can only get up to 1.5 mph with the 347lb wheels.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkaredShtles View Post
    Which is fine 'cause you can only get up to 1.5 mph with the 347lb wheels.
    Come on....I avg at least 4-8 MPH! And these are a "Lightweight" wheelset at 16 lbs for the pair! Thats single wall drilled out rims, DT 14/15 spokes, Hope Pro 2 Evo/Paul Comp hub and light weight downhill tubes!

  18. #68
    insert sarcasm here
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikesBoardsBrews View Post
    So, as far as something with spaced high knobs.....any thoughts on these tires?

    Michelin Wild Dig'r Descent 26" Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    They seem a bit to DH/aggressive for what I think I'd like....maybe these:
    Michelin Wild GRIP'R2 Advanced 26" Tire > Components > Tires and Tubes > Tires | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Do yourself a favor and go with Maxxis High Rollers. Not too heavy(non-UST version that is), square edge for great corning grip, and a decent rolling tire. Only downside is that it is difficult to find them for less than $50.

    As far as tire pressure goes, on a HT I would not go below 30 on the rear, if running tubeless. I consider myself a fairly aggressive rider and have dented a Stans Arch rim on the rear when I dropped air pressure to 27-28 in the back. Yes, I am a basher

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkaber View Post
    good god!

  20. #70
    BLKSS29RGD
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    I'm 172 nekked and run 29er real tubeless w 2.2s.

    Rigid SS over average terrain - 20 front/22 rear.

    Front boinger geared hardtail - 22 front/24 rear.

    Bump all of em 2 lbs for more severe terrain. I run the pressures above all over COS. The side of the mountain is skaty, period. Palmer is pretty grippy IMO.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkaber View Post
    I run 5.0 Psi front and 7.5 Psi rear
    I ran 8 front and 10 rear Sunday morning on a borrowed fatty with Surly Larrys (3.8"). Very nice!

    Normally, on my 29er with Ignitors front and back, I go with 30 front, 32 rear... according my my pump. On my HT with tubes and Ignitors, I run 40 front and rear.

    I'm a clyde and those numbers work well for me in most conditions.
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