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  1. #1
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    No bikers no flowers but have questions about climbing routes on the Eldorado wall

    After taking photos of those climbers bouldering near Spring Brook a few weeks ago, I thought I'd head over to the trail across from the routes at Eldorado Springs Canyon.

    I'm across from Redgarden Wall seeing a pair of climbers going up a pretty typical route. Not that it's easy, I just see somebody on that route almost every time.





    I'm scanning the wall and see a trio way over to the left. Must have been hot as a sumb!tch facing the sun. I was in the shade sweating.

    [URL=http://s233.photobucket.com/user/xcguy2/media/3-DSC_5465toncont_zps79f7b106.jpg.html][/URL

    I started taking pics of them as blue shirt was leading towards that overhang.



    He inched his way up higher and higher.



    And there he was for the next hour. He managed to get on the protection over his head, then he'd get over onto the overhanging wall to try to get up and over that lip. But he just couldn't complete the crux move I guess you'd say.



    He'd get real close then come off the wall straight down POW! and be hanging off his rope. He'd gather his wits about him, start all over again, swing back and forth on the rope to get over to the wall and start making his way up again--sort of like the bouldering climbers were a few weeks ago--only this time maybe 400 feet above the floor below.



    I don't know if he ever made it but his partners were roasting in the sun as he attempted it again. And again and again. Questions:

    1) What route is this? I Googled and got route descriptions but not exactly where the routes are. This surely has to be a highly rated route if nothing else for this ridiculously hard move up and over.

    2) From a climber's perspective, how many times can you come off your handholds and POW! be hanging off your protection which is straight above you and not demoralized?

    3) And how many times can you reasonably come straight down from that protection before it works its way out?
    He had another 10 feet to fall if that one came out.
    A blind man searches in a dark room for a black hat that isn't there. Dashiell Hammett

  2. #2
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    No bikers no flowers but have questions about climbing routes on the Eldorado w

    Perchance a climbing forum will enlighten you?

  3. #3
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    1) The Mountain Project is THE go to place for route info on the interwebz... Otherwise I'd have to pull out an actual guidebook to answer your question.

    2) depends on the individual.. The last "hard" route I did, I worked for about 6 months, after completing the route, I lost interest in climbing at that level, got married, had a child, and got back on the bike..

    3) Depends on the gear and how well it is placed and the type of rock in which it is placed. Eldo has some pretty compact (dense) sandstone and a number of permanent bolts.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for your comments. With all respect, WK, I did check out the Mountain Project and others. Lots of route descriptions but nobody (at least that I could find) had a photograph or drawing of the entire cliff face with arrows (or whatever) pointing to described routes which is what I need to know the route described is the one I was looking at.

    I know Eldo has many routes of varying degrees of difficulty. From my novice mind's perspective, I rate the move that the guy was attempting qualifies as one of the hardest. It looked like he had to mantle up and over while being tied in at below his feet, or having to mantle up and tie in to some protection up and over that ledge at the same time, a seemingly "impossible" move except for the super human.

    I've asked questions about Eldo on this forum befpre and there were climbers back then who knew the answers so I thought maybe they were still lurking here.
    A blind man searches in a dark room for a black hat that isn't there. Dashiell Hammett

  5. #5
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    onbelayDave may have an opinion.
    "Don't take life so serious, son . . . it ain't no how permanent." - Porky Pine

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cocavaak View Post
    onbelayDave may have an opinion.
    The climb looks like Art's Spar. 5.10c.

    As to how many times a guy gives a hard move a go, it's no different than mountain biking.

    Sometimes it's once and done, and other times it's an all out session.

    But I agree, Eldo, in the sun, in July, is insane !
    Last edited by onbelaydave; 07-12-2013 at 02:44 PM.

  7. #7
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    xcguy, what camera do you use? I always enjoy your pics.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by onbelaydave View Post
    The climb looks like Art's Spar. 5.10c.

    As to how times a guy gives a hard move a go, it's no different than mountain biking.

    Sometimes it's once and done, and other times it's an all out session.

    But I agree, Eldo, in the sun, in July, is insane !
    Thanks, I'll look up that route.

    I can imagine there's a hundred ways of attaching protection but when this guy came off he went straight down and his protection is pointing straight down. Not, ya know, like sticking out of a wall so the downward force is somewhat mitigated by the angle of the anchor. After about his fourth time falling five feet and bouncing up from where the rope went taut I"m cringing "yikes!!" I wasn't out there to get a shot of him falling, I wanted a series of shots of him getting up and over that ledge.
    A blind man searches in a dark room for a black hat that isn't there. Dashiell Hammett

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wicket? View Post
    xcguy, what camera do you use? I always enjoy your pics.
    This was my "always in my car" Nikon D3100 with an 18-105 VR. The closeups were cropped bigtime from as close as I could get with this lens, which isn't a telephoto. You've seen shots from my other cameras as well.
    A blind man searches in a dark room for a black hat that isn't there. Dashiell Hammett

  10. #10
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    Art's Spar it is. Here's a link to Mountain Project's page about this route:

    Mountain Project: Climbing Eldorado Canyon SP > Art's Spar
    A blind man searches in a dark room for a black hat that isn't there. Dashiell Hammett

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