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  1. #1
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    Niner RIP 9 chain suck

    I just bought a 2010 RIP 9, and noticed the lack of clreance between the 44t XTR chain ring and the frame. The Niner foum has all sorts of horror stories about the chain suck and trying to fix it (mostly by dropping to a 2x9 set up). I was just checking to see if anyone in CO, with our relatively dry conditions, has experienced this type of chain suck with the RIP before I take it out for the first time. Thanks.

  2. #2
    hehe ...you said "member"
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    I've always found that chain suck can be easily remedied by cleaning and lubing the drivetrain.
    That said, if the RIP 9 has clearance issues, dropping to 2 X 9 may be the way to go ... bummer.
    “Me fail english? Thats unpossible.” - Matt Groening

  3. #3
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    While it is something that you want to be forced to do, I find that a 2x9 setup in CO is perfect for me. If I have spun out of my 34/11 gearing, then I'm probably on a road anyway. I immediately ditch the big ring on my dual squish bikes.

    A couple of benefits you get from 2x9:
    - shorter chain, less slapping on the DHs
    - cleaner shifting, can optimize Front Der
    - run a bash guard instead of the big ring, climb rocks you got hung up on before

    Now if you're an XC racer the big ring is essential, but most XC racers would be riding a JET not a RIP anyway.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by coyotegulch
    I just bought a 2010 RIP 9, and noticed the lack of clreance between the 44t XTR chain ring and the frame. The Niner foum has all sorts of horror stories about the chain suck and trying to fix it (mostly by dropping to a 2x9 set up). I was just checking to see if anyone in CO, with our relatively dry conditions, has experienced this type of chain suck with the RIP before I take it out for the first time. Thanks.
    Yep,
    chain suck with 2010 RIP9 is real BIG problem.
    I have been riding Jet9 switched temporarily to 2010 RIP9.. and with Jet9 it never happened in 2 years.
    With RIP9 it happens on every ride.... I am really angry about this because it has slowed me big time on one of the races and messed up another race completely.
    Shame on you Niner for not testing this better.

    Chain suck happens normally when the lower section of chain is bouncing up and down and rear triange is active the chain gets trapped between 32 and 44 t rings and frame.
    The weld on my frame in this place is chewed up as result of that.

    I run my chain one link shorter than recommended and use Tri Flow... dry lube so the chain is never sticky.... clearly not a chain or rider or shifting problem ... BAD DESIGN of 2010 RIP9 frame in this section.

    Switching to 2x9 may fix the problem and I am thinking about that... but who will pay for it... Niner? I don't think so....
    Did any of you try to attach something to lower part of chainstay close to the weld to prevent the chain from getting trapped?

  5. #5
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    well I've been riding the demo for a bit, and haven't noticed that.....and I still feel like buying one. (I know that was a sweet first post..!!)

  6. #6
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    Is this still a problem? is there a fix? I'm getting ready to buy a 2010 rip9 with a set up like this.
    Shimano Deore XT M770 175mm 4-Arm Crank 22-32-44 with Bottom Bracket. Will I have chain suck?.
    Last edited by Broncstad; 09-10-2010 at 12:21 AM.

  7. #7
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    The solution is single speed. no suck.
    Golden Bike Park Group

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  8. #8
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    Go double ring crankset : something like FC-M665.... remove bashguard ..and at will be very respectable weight at around 800 gramms. and improved chainline...
    That's what I am using... If you are interrested in FC-M665 contact me and I can hook you up...

  9. #9
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    Anyone try a anti-chain suck devise?

    Not sure if they are still on the market. But in a bygone age they were popular. It proved valuable in saving many thin walled aluminium frames. Attaches to chainstays and will not allow chain to lodge in between chainrings and frame. If my memory serves me, Yeti sold them.

    Have not had to use one in a long time. Possible solution w/o giving up big chainring or destroying frame. Good luck!
    "Biking lets you come alive both in body and spirit- the bike disappears and you feel as if you're suspended in midair"GKlein

  10. #10
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    Truvative Stylo has a 51.5mm chain line, and no chain suck issues on a 3 ring.

  11. #11
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    I am running an XTR crank, standard triple with no problems.

  12. #12
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    chainsuck on RIP9

    It happened on my first ride with all new parts on 2010 RIP9 and scarred my King bottom bracket all to hell. Now almost a year later I have learned to soft pedal during downshift to 22t granny and I run the front derailer to barely rub chain while in 22t-34t gear combo and chainsuck problems are history but the first few times where a complete nightmare!

  13. #13
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    2x10

    Has anyone run the RIP with 2x10 and had the same issues...its on my list to demo before I purchase a new bike this spring. I have a 2x9 setup on my 575 and have the same issues.

  14. #14
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    Hey;

    I just put the first ride on my new 2010 RIP9 last night. It happened twice, and it is fairly disappointing, I must say. Put a nice scratch in my new frame. Although my old Fisher Sugar did it quite a lot, I NEVER had it happen with my beloved Heckler in all these last 5 years of slogging around in the creeks and mud that I ride. It's impossible on that frame. Last night in perfectly dry conditions with everything brand new, it happened TWICE. Annoying.

    I am running 2x9 with a bash ring. When I set up my Race Face cranks, I did not like the chain line with the recommended spacer under the bearing on the drive side. This does put everything VERY close to the frame, but there was room. I just didn't care for cross-chaining it that much with the spacer in. If nothing else it made the chain noisy. However, I may have to put that spacer back in and see if it "solves" the problem.

    I don't like compromise, but I like chain suck even less.

  15. #15
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    This takes RIP 9 out of my list as one of the 29ers to replace by beloved YETI 575.
    It is down to Specialized FSR 29 and Turner Sultan.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm2us
    This takes RIP 9 out of my list as one of the 29ers to replace my beloved YETI 575. It is down to Specialized FSR 29 and Turner Sultan.
    I'm not sure I would go that far...yet;

    It can be tuned around, so I am told. It is a shame that the problem exists at all, but it has never stopped me from using a bike. I made an aluminum guard for my old Fisher Sugar that disallowed the chain from going past the guard and under the frame. It would still suck up, but only lock into the guard, not suck past the frame stay. All I had to do was back pedal a tad and it would clear. Worked well. There might be something like that in my future... again. Shortening the chain a link or so might help as well. I made it a little long anyway, so...

    MBA's recent review of the Sultan was far less than glowing, for what it's worth. I wouldn't even consider it based on what they said. Other than this issue (after only ONE ride), the RIP9 is wonderful so far. I'll give it more twiddling before I call this a complete deal breaking F-up. I've already put the bearing spacer back on the drive side.

  17. #17
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    Thanks TrailMaker - hopefully they address this issue on '11 model. Do you know when RIP '11 model is coming out?

  18. #18
    Kaj
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    we've had a few bikes over the years that had chain suck issues w/ race face cranks. a switch to slx or better shimano cranks did the fix on them.

    sounds like this bike has a problem though, however I doubt the race face cranks are helping it.

    ... my likely useless 2 cents
    Helping folks shred in Boulder & Colorado since 1982 www.fullcyclebikes.com

  19. #19
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    OK;

    I put the drive side spacer back in under the x-bearing as Race Face suggests. It changed the outcome of the problem, but did not eliminate it. I actually sucked the chain over the stay without realizing it, and powered up a steep craggy climb with it riding up and over the stay! Only after I stopped at the top to put my lungs back in did I realize "why it had been so noisy." As I looked at it, I could see that the difference now was that there was enough room so that all I had to do was back peddle and the chain would come back out by itself. If I were to leave it this way, I could work around it thusly. I shifted very gingerly for the rest of the ride and it never happened again.

    Now, I originally left the spacer off because I did not like the chain line I was getting. This put the granny ring very close to the frame, but there was clearance, and it gave me a much nicer chain line from large cog-to-ring (middle first). However, in this position the only remedy to sucking the chain was to have a SRAM Power Link, undo it, and re-thread the chain.

    I don't see why the crank brand would have any effect? I might be able to fathom the ring profiles themselves having an effect, at least initially. I can also speculate that adding the spacer and cross-chaining a little more might make the problem worse by increasing side friction between the chain plates and the sprocket teeth. I don't think this assumption played out exactly. What I do know at this point is the problem is caused by chain slap. If the chain bounces up and down enough, and you are peddling and dropping onto granny, the chain will bounce up, pick up a tooth, over wrap on the up-bounce, and suck in.

    What I must also add is that I left the chain one link longer than SRAM suggested, just to be safe in my initialization phase. As with all new builds, I still have some tweaking to do, and one of the things I plan on is to shorten the chain by a link, which should take some of the slack out of it and may reduce the slap/suck problem.

    More to come...

  20. #20
    Moderator Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker
    OK;

    More to come...
    TrailMaker,

    You should call Eric @ Niner Bikes. 877-646-3792.

    The 2010/2011/2012 model year (well we actually don't use model years) in the chain stay area remains unchanged. You should not be having chainsuck issues if you are following the specs on the Niner RIP9 website page.

    Brett
    Niner Bikes employee. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Niner-...3652275?ref=ts
    Front Range Forum Moderator

  21. #21
    Kaj
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    It's not the race face cranks, but rather the race face chain rings. they shift nice, but we've seen them cause chain suck on 29ers. Shimano chain rings release the chain better, and have fewer issues.

    we had a bike in 2009 that chain sucked like crazy w/ race face chain rings. every one of them was fixed completely w/ shimano chain rings/crank
    Helping folks shred in Boulder & Colorado since 1982 www.fullcyclebikes.com

  22. #22
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    Hey;

    Good information fellows. Thanks. Seems this thread should be over in the Niner forum, eh? Surprisingly, a search for the topic over there produced little result.

  23. #23
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    No problem with my 2010 running a 3x10 XT crank.

    Not a one.

    Fingers crossed.

  24. #24
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    Update;

    I rode again last night under the same conditions (dry, no mud), shifted to the same gears in the same places that sucked the chain previously, and I could never make it happen. Difference: I removed 1 chain link. I am now at the length recommended by SRAM. Obviously, the reduction in chain slap may have improved the situation. So too might the wearing-in of the chain rings after three rides now.

  25. #25
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    I have an '08 Kona Hei Hei 2-9 and it had similar chain-suck issues. The bike came stock with RF Deus cranks and a lot of the suggested fixes involved filing down the ramps and pins on the chainrings. I never did that, but I did lose the big ring (replaced with a bash guard) which allowed me to significantly shorten the chain. That seemed to do the trick and I have only experienced the problem a couple of times since then. Sounds like you got it worked out, but I thought I'd share my experience anyway.

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