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  1. #1
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    Let's Talk Tires...

    Need some help... I'm an All-mtn rider coming from DH racing back ground. I'm looking for a good set of tires, that are 1.5 to 2 ply,tubeless, role great, but can still pick up cornering and nothing over 2.3". I don't want a heavy tire since I ride this bike up hill as well. Right now I'm rolling Specialized Chunder SX in the front and the Purgatory S-works on the rear. Need help...
    Want a faster tire, but one I can't roll (Side to Side)...

    GO.....

  2. #2
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    Doesn't exist.

    HTH.


  3. #3
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    I'd think lightweight double ply would be mutually exclusive

    Up until then, I would've said Minion DH-F UST 2.3 or Nevegal 2.3. How about a ghetto tubeless setup?

  4. #4
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    Yeah.... Minion is a great tire... But heavy... The chunder is 1.5 ply and I do run it tubeless, which I love. I'm just hoping that someone else has a different set up. The bike weights 31.5 now, but I want a better rolling tire for climbing...

  5. #5
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    I've got ignitors on my FS right now, 2.35 ust.

    Looking for a little more meat up front. maybe mountain king 2.4

  6. #6
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    S -- perfect tire for you -- MaxxLite 310. Only 310 grams in a 26 x 1.95. I have a set I'm happy to let you try, though I suspect you wouldn't make it from your house to the NTM trailhed on them.

    On a more serious note, I do think the 2.25 Maxxis ADvantage or 2.35 Ignitor, also Maxxis, would be good tires for you to try.

  7. #7
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    AM tires

    I have been running the Tioga factory DH 2.3" front and rear tires on my trail bike for the last 6 years. They are 1.5 ply, folding and are not rediculously heavy. They are not the lowest rolling resistance tires out there but they get the job done. The only problem is I can't find them anymore. I am running 2.4" WTB moto something rathers right now and the rear is alright but the front tire sucks - constatntly feels like I'm going to wash out on loose stuff.

    I can't afford to put maxxis on my trail bike so I think I am going to try some 2.3" WTB Prowlers, front and rear. I rode a so-called all mountain bike recently with this set up and it seemed pretty sweet. They are in the $30. range.
    "Put the Fun Between Your Legs."

  8. #8
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    Check out the Michelin Dry2 . It is what they call 4ply - more like a 1.5 ply, 2.3 (tho my most recent one showed up smaller) and it weighs 750g - very tough. The kicker is, it rolls very very fast. Rear only.

    If you have a DH background you'll know how to set an edge when cornering this tire.

    P

  9. #9
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    I've had trouble getting anything to hook up out here on the decomposed granite. Everything I've tried breaks loose when I push hard into a corner. Running 2.3 S-Works Eskar Control's right now. Nevegals before that (way heavy UST). Exploded a High Roller before that.

  10. #10
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    i too come from the dh racing, and i have blown up tons of xc tires on my trail bike. right now, my setup is a spec enduro 2.3 with tube up front, and a maxxis high roller in the back tubeless 2.3. i hadhigh rollers front and back, but i couldn't get over having sucha skinny tire up front.

    really the only way is to try stuff out ($$$$) and see what works for you.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TooManyToyz
    I've had trouble getting anything to hook up out here on the decomposed granite. Everything I've tried breaks loose when I push hard into a corner. Running 2.3 S-Works Eskar Control's right now. Nevegals before that (way heavy UST). Exploded a High Roller before that.
    What kind of luck have you had with the Eskar? I've got a set on the bike (with 0 miles on them), but am hesitant to trust them too much given what I've read about their puncture resistance.
    Now with more vitriol!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by adjunkie
    i too come from the dh racing, and i have blown up tons of xc tires on my trail bike. right now, my setup is a spec enduro 2.3 with tube up front, and a maxxis high roller in the back tubeless 2.3. i hadhigh rollers front and back, but i couldn't get over having sucha skinny tire up front.

    really the only way is to try stuff out ($$$$) and see what works for you.

    Yeah, that is what I was scared of.... Money just not hanging around on trees these days... High rollers are heavy. Any body know about the Maxxis Larson or Ardent? The Ardent looks like a nice rolling tire?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reporterkyle


    S -- perfect tire for you -- MaxxLite 310. Only 310 grams in a 26 x 1.95. I have a set I'm happy to let you try, though I suspect you wouldn't make it from your house to the NTM trailhed on them.

    On a more serious note, I do think the 2.25 Maxxis ADvantage or 2.35 Ignitor, also Maxxis, would be good tires for you to try.
    No, I'm surprised you make it out of your drive... When are you getting the Carbon rims...
    Last edited by 3H'S; 06-05-2009 at 08:33 PM.

  14. #14
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    I have an Ardent 2.25. It's missing some meat in the mid-shoulder

    Quote Originally Posted by 3H'S
    Any body know about the Maxxis Larson or Ardent? The Ardent looks like a nice rolling tire?
    If it's fully upright, it's great. If it's fully leaned over, it's great. Anywhere in between, and you're on the bald mid-shoulder area. It'd probably be fine for a drifter rear tire, but not for a front, imo

  15. #15
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    I love the Hutch Barracuda MRC medium 2.3 UST. The bike is a Nomad and I run the pressure at 40psi. Grippy & carvy.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3H'S
    Yeah, that is what I was scared of.... Money just not hanging around on trees these days... High rollers are heavy. Any body know about the Maxxis Larson or Ardent? The Ardent looks like a nice rolling tire?
    I'm about threw a set of Maxxis Larsens now. These are awesome 2.3 tires that flow very fast with little rolling resistance. They also handle great and seem to stick great for those tough climbs. I would highly suggest them from FR riding. After I put them on it seemed like I had a whole new bike coming from the stock 2.1's. I'm probably going to try the ignitors next.

  17. #17
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    I'd try tubeless Maxxis ADvantage or Schwalbe Fat Albert UST or Big Betty UST.

    _MK

    Before you diagnose yourself with depression or low self-esteem, first make sure that you are not just surrounded by a*holes

  18. #18
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    I think tubeless is a bad choice for Front Range CO where flats are relatively common due to the abundance of sharp rocks, cactus, goatheads, etc. In my experience it is a big pita to throw a tube in a tubeless when on the trail. The tires are really hard to mount due to the very tight bead, it is messy (and possibly polluting) due to the sealant, and then you're left with a heavier tire/wheel and work or expense to fix it when you get home. Tubes are just much simpler and easier to deal with for most riders...

  19. #19
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    Really... I almost flatted every time I rode with tubes. I have been tubeless for 5 months and "NO" flats... One of the best investments ever to riding in the front range... Checked the Garmin, 185 miles with out a flat...

  20. #20
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    5 months

    150 days

    185 miles

    1.2 miles per day

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3H'S
    Really... I almost flatted every time I rode with tubes. I have been tubeless for 5 months and "NO" flats... One of the best investments ever to riding in the front range... Checked the Garmin, 185 miles with out a flat...
    I've flatted less with tubeless... but I've flatted twice this season alone with them. And it is a mess to put a tube in with all that sealant crap all over the place.

  22. #22
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    what ever you do, fill it with helium. That'll make it lighter!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3H'S
    Yeah.... Minion is a great tire... But heavy... The chunder is 1.5 ply and I do run it tubeless, which I love. I'm just hoping that someone else has a different set up. The bike weights 31.5 now, but I want a better rolling tire for climbing...
    Have you thought about drilling lots of holes? That usually lightens it up!

  24. #24
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    haven't flatted in 2 years since going tubeless. One year without sealant even.


    Quote Originally Posted by afox
    I think tubeless is a bad choice for Front Range CO where flats are relatively common due to the abundance of sharp rocks, cactus, goatheads, etc. In my experience it is a big pita to throw a tube in a tubeless when on the trail. The tires are really hard to mount due to the very tight bead, it is messy (and possibly polluting) due to the sealant, and then you're left with a heavier tire/wheel and work or expense to fix it when you get home. Tubes are just much simpler and easier to deal with for most riders...

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndecentExposure
    what ever you do, fill it with helium. That'll make it lighter!
    Or even better fill it with vacuum. Nothing is lighter than that.
    "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit." - And I agree.

  26. #26
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    Im guessing those running tubeless have more time to work on their bikes than me, or can afford to pay a shop to mount their tires. I gave it a try, i might have gone a few more rides than usual without a flat, then i got a small rip in the sidewall on a ride, it was somewhat of a big job to put a tube in on the side of the trail compared to the usual tube replacement or patch. My tread was fine but the sidewall rip was a little big for a patch so I ended up running a more expensive and heavier tire than usual until it was time for a new tire. I guess Im just saying the cost/hassle to benefit ratio of tubeless does'nt make it worthwhile for me.

  27. #27
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    sidewall rips are going to get you no matter what. Tubeless tires haven't been a problem mounting and wen they are it's more about seating the tire/ inflating w/o a compressor. Probably saved several hundred bucks on tubes over the time since converting.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaba Klaus
    Or even better fill it with vacuum. Nothing is lighter than that.
    Well, Oreck is supposed to make the lightest vacuums, but I'm not sure how you plan to get it inside the tire.

    I like WTB Mutanos/ Motos/ Weirwolfs run ghetto tubeless, personally.
    And I banged my sx thru the rocks at SV all day Friday with no issues. The last 2 times there with tubes I flatted. So there.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by timroz
    5 months

    150 days

    185 miles

    1.2 miles per day

    Yes, when you break it out, I'm sadden by on little I have road. Well, most of those months have been during winter, and this dam rain... Still not anywhere I would really like to be. I would like to ride 40 hours a week and work 8 hours week. That would be nice...

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by afox
    Im guessing those running tubeless have more time to work on their bikes than me, or can afford to pay a shop to mount their tires.
    My experience is the opposite of yours. I used to pinch flat or get thorns in tubes constantly. Going tubeless with stans allows my tire to have multiple thorn holes that self-heal.

    I've also mounted Hutchinson, Continental, and Specialized tires with nothing more than soapy water and a floor pump. Much easier to get on than the freaking Pro Race tires on my roadie.

    Running a tire a 28 psi adds some grip and you just can't do that with tubes getting snake bit.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by afox
    Im guessing those running tubeless have more time to work on their bikes than me, or can afford to pay a shop to mount their tires. I gave it a try, i might have gone a few more rides than usual without a flat, then i got a small rip in the sidewall on a ride, it was somewhat of a big job to put a tube in on the side of the trail compared to the usual tube replacement or patch. My tread was fine but the sidewall rip was a little big for a patch so I ended up running a more expensive and heavier tire than usual until it was time for a new tire. I guess Im just saying the cost/hassle to benefit ratio of tubeless does'nt make it worthwhile for me.
    afox, you are definitely the exception and not the rule. I've been running tubeless for 3-4 years and most of my riding partners run tubeless too. I have one friend who hasn't gotten a flat in 2 years since he started running tubeless. I use Stan's rims, Stan's sealant and regular tires (meaning I don't use USTs) and love it. I'll concede that it you do need access to an air compressor to set them up, but it's really not that hard and the benefit is tremendous. It is WAY lighter than running a tube, you getter better traction and tire performance and you get extraordinarly fewer flats. I hear you on torn sidewalls, but that's more a function of tire selection and has nothing to do with whether you run tubeless or not. I know that I've found some tires are significantly more prone to sidewall tears than others, regardless of whether I'm using tubes or not.

  32. #32
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    OK -- time to hijack. I'm sold on UST but can't afford new wheelset/rims right now.

    Does anyone have experience with this: Stans Tubeless Conversion system? -->
    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13085-343_STAXC4-3-Parts-73-Tires/Mountain/Stan's-Standard_UST-Tubeless-System.htm

  33. #33
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    No offense intended

    Just sharing what works for me.

    Caveat #1 - I am an old fossil who has a hard time changing my ways. I have yet to own a cell phone and do not know what a 'Twitter' is.......but, I don't have a brain tumor, either.....

    I run a 2.35 Blue Groove DTC (fr) and a 2.1 Nevegal DTC (rr).
    Pressures are 28 and 38, respectively.
    I use LunarLight tubes (90 grams).
    I talc the tubes and inside of tire regularly.


    I have not had a pinch flat for several years/ several thousand miles.

    Rims are Mavic 717XC discs.

    Caveat #2 - I do not ride in some of the severe places that all y'all do -- so, no risk of sidewall tears and or thorns and cactus.


    Advantages: Big volume tires w/ light weight, no rim/tire issues, no mess, less $$$$, don't have to learn new technology and/ or acronyms.

    Disadvantages: Merciless ridicule, must repair/ replace tube if I DO pinch or hit a thorn.

    As in life, tradeoffs are the rule, I guess.


    I will be at the Open Space meeting tonight, if you want subject me to said ridicule in person, btw.

    Happy Trails, Everyone!

    Marc

  34. #34
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    Heres a good website with pros and cons of tubeless:
    http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/go...o-tubeless.htm

    Im not saying tubeless is bad for everyone just not the best option for me. I dont have time or money to invest in air compressors, CO2 cartridges, 45 minute tire changes etc. Unfortunately for me, 1 hour working on the bike is 1 hour lost riding. I can change/repair a tube start to finish in under 10 minutes, dont need special tools and the job I do on the side of the trail is just as good as what Id do at home. I tried tubeless and the wheel weight savings was not noticeable, maybe my riding has'nt reached the level of some of you yet but I dont feel the need to run super low tire pressures and most of my flats are from thorns not pinches.

  35. #35
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    dude seriously?

    Quote Originally Posted by lokiboy8
    Just sharing what works for me.

    Caveat #1 - I am an old fossil who has a hard time changing my ways. I have yet to own a cell phone and do not know what a 'Twitter' is.......but, I don't have a brain tumor, either.....

    I run a 2.35 Blue Groove DTC (fr) and a 2.1 Nevegal DTC (rr).
    Pressures are 28 and 38, respectively.
    I use LunarLight tubes (90 grams).
    I talc the tubes and inside of tire regularly.


    I have not had a pinch flat for several years/ several thousand miles.

    Rims are Mavic 717XC discs.

    Caveat #2 - I do not ride in some of the severe places that all y'all do -- so, no risk of sidewall tears and or thorns and cactus.


    Advantages: Big volume tires w/ light weight, no rim/tire issues, no mess, less $$$$, don't have to learn new technology and/ or acronyms.

    Disadvantages: Merciless ridicule, must repair/ replace tube if I DO pinch or hit a thorn.

    As in life, tradeoffs are the rule, I guess.


    I will be at the Open Space meeting tonight, if you want subject me to said ridicule in person, btw.

    Happy Trails, Everyone!

    Marc
    if you aint puncturing a a 2.1 Nevegal DTC (rr) u most either not weigh anything or walk down the decsents? thats the worst tyre i have ver ridden, i weigh 178 lbs and had to run that tyre at over 45 psi or i know it would pinch! at over 35 psi it does not grip at all !

    i am searching for a lightweight AM tyre between 2.2 and 2.35 that under 700 grams, any suggestions? high snake bite resistance is my priority cos i get loadsa these from ragging my bike
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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhyko
    if you aint puncturing a a 2.1 Nevegal DTC (rr) u most either not weigh anything or walk down the decsents? thats the worst tyre i have ver ridden, i weigh 178 lbs and had to run that tyre at over 45 psi or i know it would pinch! at over 35 psi it does not grip at all !

    i am searching for a lightweight AM tyre between 2.2 and 2.35 that under 700 grams, any suggestions? high snake bite resistance is my priority cos i get loadsa these from ragging my bike
    Maybe you need to learn to ride smoother? I'm 205 pounds with a 2.1 Nevegal on back. Or maybe I misinterpreted your post, I don't read so well.
    You have just been mentally Rick Roll'd. Yup you're thinking about it right now aren't you? Don't fight it.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3H'S
    Need some help... I'm an All-mtn rider coming from DH racing back ground. I'm looking for a good set of tires, that are 1.5 to 2 ply,tubeless, role great, but can still pick up cornering and nothing over 2.3". I don't want a heavy tire since I ride this bike up hill as well. Right now I'm rolling Specialized Chunder SX in the front and the Purgatory S-works on the rear. Need help...
    Want a faster tire, but one I can't roll (Side to Side)...

    GO.....
    I have been running the IRC freedomcross trailbear 2.5 it's only 780g and it's a sick tire!

    http://www.irctire.com/tires/trailbear.html

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhyko
    if you aint puncturing a a 2.1 Nevegal DTC (rr) u most either not weigh anything or walk down the decsents? thats the worst tyre i have ver ridden, i weigh 178 lbs and had to run that tyre at over 45 psi or i know it would pinch! at over 35 psi it does not grip at all !

    i am searching for a lightweight AM tyre between 2.2 and 2.35 that under 700 grams, any suggestions? high snake bite resistance is my priority cos i get loadsa these from ragging my bike

    I ride these same tires, weigh 215 without gear, and ride technical singletrack at 38psi and I have never pnch flatted, ever.

  39. #39
    bacon! bacon! bacon!
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    Might I suggest:




  40. #40
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    gunnirider.... how long is your typical ride and what's the rolling resistence on the trail bear? It looks like a sick tire but I couldn't imagine pushing a 2.5 on a 30 miler. It does however look like a sick tire for DH and shuttle runs on Monarch Crest.

  41. #41
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    It's my favorite tire...

    Quote Originally Posted by edenger
    gunnirider.... how long is your typical ride and what's the rolling resistence on the trail bear? It looks like a sick tire but I couldn't imagine pushing a 2.5 on a 30 miler. It does however look like a sick tire for DH and shuttle runs on Monarch Crest.
    The tires roll pretty well. My average ride is about 3 hours, but have put 5+ hour rides with them too. I ride a 6point6 (36lb) as my do everything bike, not much into shuttling. Pushing a 2.5 tire is not an issue with me especially the performance you get from them. In fact I don't like riding anything much smaller. It's like having fat skis! It's not really a true DH tire, but for the size and being under 800g's it works really well. The tread life on them is great, especially for riding tire eating terrain in Gunnison/CB. Pricepoint use to have them for $15 so an exceptional deal too.

  42. #42
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    does the trailbear come with a hairy back and a set of chaps?

  43. #43
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    smotther maybe

    Quote Originally Posted by Ithnu
    Maybe you need to learn to ride smoother? I'm 205 pounds with a 2.1 Nevegal on back. Or maybe I misinterpreted your post, I don't read so well.
    sorry my comment was probably a bit harsh

    LMAO riding smoother would involve slowing down, i learnt to ride DH on a hardtail so i guess ive developed a fairly rough style, ive moved on to 1 4" travel bike and have the shock pretty hard to just take out the "sting"

    in my defence there is no real way of riding smoothly and quickly through a rock garden on a trail bike!

    nah i stick by my comment the Nevegal 2.1's suck, since i swapped tyres (maxxis ignitor 2.2 ust)i have had only a quarter of the punctures, and thats with running the tyre softer (35 psi)

    but due to my non smoothness i think i need a higher volume taller tyre to further reduce snake bites and gain some grip, but i want to keep the weight down still.
    im thinking between a wtb wolverine, maxxis advantage or crossmark, i wanted a conti rubber queen but it it too big and probably wont fit, im sticking with the maxxis high roller 2.35 St on the front because it really likes being leaned over t speed

    think im gonna order a maxxis advantage 2.25-seams light and has a high volume with good edge grip
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by nOOby
    does the trailbear come with a hairy back and a set of chaps?
    No, but I do!!
    I see you're drinking one percent. Is that because you think you're fat?

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowhoss
    I ride these same tires, weigh 215 without gear, and ride technical singletrack at 38psi and I have never pnch flatted, ever.
    I think, as with anything, size is relative. You at 215 on a 2.1 is like me, at 185, riding a 1.9. I can't imagine ever riding anything smaller than a 2.3 on the dirt. If you haven't tried them before, you will notice a huge improvement in your bike's ride and handling by going to a large volume tire. And they'll probably last longer.
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  46. #46
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    not that there's anything wrong with that.

    Quote Originally Posted by lusdawg
    No, but I do!!
    anyhoo, I put a 2.4 ust conti mountain king on the front and just got back from the neighborhood test track. Mix of sandy, rocky, loamy, stream crossings, and off camber decent followed by a 4 mile sandy fireroad climb. so far i'm pretty happy, the tire is def. heavier than the 2.35 ignitor ust on there before with slightly more rolling resistance but overall very predictable. I think it's going to work out well.

  47. #47
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    to bring up a old thread. Whats a 2.3 range front tire that does not wash out or drift at speed on the trails out here. my Nevegal has caused me to go down a few times and it is getting annoying cause i dont trust the tire and have to baby threw longer corners, its snappy on quick little weight back and forth to miss rocks and such, but high speed longer corners when you lean it pushes and then it gone and you hear that great im sliding on my side noise. the rear one bites but the front pushes like hell unless it is wet out.

  48. #48
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    maxxis ignitor 2.35 ust or mountain king 2.4 ust.

    rounder profiles

  49. #49
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    Totally depends on what the condition of the trail (not to mention WHICH trail you're on) is that day.


  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck
    to bring up a old thread. Whats a 2.3 range front tire that does not wash out or drift at speed on the trails out here. my Nevegal has caused me to go down a few times and it is getting annoying cause i dont trust the tire and have to baby threw longer corners, its snappy on quick little weight back and forth to miss rocks and such, but high speed longer corners when you lean it pushes and then it gone and you hear that great im sliding on my side noise. the rear one bites but the front pushes like hell unless it is wet out.
    Maxxis Minion 2.35 Front for both front and back.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by nOOby
    I've got ignitors on my FS right now, 2.35 ust.

    Looking for a little more meat up front. maybe mountain king 2.4
    Word to the conti mtn king 2.4 up front (and a 2.2 in the back).

  52. #52
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    ive decided to do a detailed review of the tyres i have tried for yall
    believe me- i ride my bike hard and i really get a good feel of what a tyre is capable of. most of my riding is XC but i do some pretty good DH tracks too in S.Wales
    i think Cwmcarn (my local trail) is an excellent way to test parts because it has a bit of everything
    anyway here we go

    This is the history of the tyres I have had on my bike from my 1st bike onwards
    ive been given quite a few tyres to try out, and i will review other tyres i have tried:

    Tioga DH 2.35 –these were on the first MTB I bought, a Saracen Xess 14”, this is the bike I learnt on over two years ago and these tyres are still very usable after well over a years use, in fact I recently run the rear tyre on the back of my Giant Trance, I discovered how much impact the weight of a tyre has upon climbing, my god it was hard, it added 10 mins to a usual hour ride, however the fast twisty descents felt like I was on rails and I was able to lay off the brakes more than usual.

    The next tyre I bought was a Maxxis ST High Roller 2.35 which I used on the front of my Saracen after about 10 months-I felt an instant improvement with this tyre it has such a more predictable slide and feels more comfortable leaned over at speed, it is also a lot lighter than the Tioga DH which was why I was advised to get it, I still use this tyre on the front of my newer bike and is still running strong after 18 months.

    The next tyres I had were standard on my Giant trance- the Kendas.
    I remember the 1st ride on my Trance, I could not believe how fast it rolled, a lot of this was due to the skinnier much lighter tyres, however half way around the ride the novelty soon wore off as I quickly realised that you cant pin skinny tyres around corners anywhere close to what you can with wider tyres. I soon after put the high roller back up front but stuck with the Nevegal on the rear after reading so many good reviews of it – all of which I now disagree with.
    Kenda Nevegal 2.1: quite a slow tyre, snake bites very easily, definitely the worst tyre i have had i terms of snake biting by a large margin, however when the tyre is at a sensible pressure (this is when it would pinch)it is actually quite grippy both up and downhill, and fairly good cornering, it does have good braking traction too, i know a lot of people like these tyres, however if you ride hard down rough descents it will pinch, every good rider i know that’s tried these tyres is agreed on this.
    Kenda blue groove: like the Nevegal but with much less grip and rolls a lot quicker.
    I think I will sum the Kendas up as “horses for courses”, they are no good for what I require, however there are a lot of good reviews so they cant be that bad, I guess other people ride differently and on different terrain so have different requirements.

    The end of my small Kenda era I was given a Maxxis Ignitor 2.1 UST for the rear.

    Luckily for me a lot of the guys I ride with are sponsored DH riders and I get a lot of free tyres ;-)

    Maxxis Ignitor 2.1 UST - an improvement on the nevegal in terms of cornering grip and much less pinch flats, however this is also quite a shallow tyre so if you hammer your bike fast over rocky terrain the snake bite is inevitable, it was ages before I got a pinch (15 rides or so) flat, then I seemed to get loads so I gave up on it and searched for a taller tyre I could run with a little less pressure.

    So I have now tried out a couple taller lightweight tyres here are a couple of my opinions on them.

    WTB Wolverine: very fast quite good traction for climbing, its a tall tyre so has good pinch flat resistance, however not very good cornering grip and terrible braking traction, good tyre if you want to set fast lap times on XC but no good if your more interested in lowering the seat and cranking it down descents. The braking traction is bizarre, when this tyre locks up it just skims and does not bite into the ground at all, this also means that it locks up a lot easier which is the reason I took it off.

    Maxxis Crossmark-very similar to as above to ride with, but probably slightly smaller height wise, slightly less corner grip than the WTB but much better braking traction, however I decided not to go with this as I didn’t feel it grips very well when the bike is leant over at speed

    Maxxis ADvantage 2.2-this is the tyre i am sticking with, it is very tall so good snake bite resistance or you can run it a bit softer for extra traction., good traction uphill, better cornering grip than the other tyres (except the high roller and Tioga DH) this I think is the perfect trade between speed and grip, its light enough to fly up hills. It has weird cornering grip, I have ridden some fast twisty descents on it (27 mph+ is my idea of quick lol ok not that extreme) it slides and then grips, I think this is due to a gap from the centre tread to the edge, at 1st It scared me a bit but I now am confident that it will catch me so riding is fun again.
    there is a disadvantage to this tyre-its greatest strength is it's greatest weakness-when you lock this tyre up it really bites in hard (really hard) to the point it throws you forward, however i have noticed after only a few rides some of the centre treads are starting to peel off, so i am going to have to avoid locking it up from now on.

    Hope this helps people in some way

    The tyre I really want to test is the CONTI rubber Queen 2.2 however I suspect it will not fit on the rear and im not convinced it will grip as well as the ST high roller on the front, I am trying to convince a friend to get one so I can try it out ;-)
    some people live more in one minute than others do in a year
    Ride on!

  53. #53
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    So after this weekend and today of riding at a few places on the new tires i picked up. wtb wierwolf 2.3 race. all i can say is WOW they roll about 400 times faster then the kendas they replaced. They are a little heavier tire but im not conting grams on this bike. Corner well and very predictable drift and unlike the kendas once they start to loose traction in corners they get it back and drift nicely. I can corner much harder, without that wash out feeling that scared the crap out of me. Did front and rear the rear climbs well over most conditions. Roll so much better that i was able to turn smaller gears in the back and have the same amount of work. Took the wrong line a few times in places that flattened the kendas and they ate it up no pinch flats which is rare for me. the braking traction is way better on these as well. Places i was locking up the kendas with no effort at all these held and i could modjulate the brakes better. Only real complain so far is they are usless and i mean like roller skates on ice rink when there is mud involved. If you hit a little spot of mud it gets crazy. does not clean out and becomes a slick. they do clean out after you get out of the mud and back on normal colorado trail conditions but when that happens get ready to be pelted with it and whatever it picks up on the trail. These tires do like to thow baby gravel rocks around. But all in all this tire is 100% beffter then the kenda for riding in the dry or decomp granite we have around here. Just not a wet muddy tire. hope this helps anyone looking for a different tire. Give them a try.

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