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  1. #1
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    Let's talk about a group order for some cheap Light-Bicycle carbon rims

    So, per the 130pg megathread on the 29er Component forum, LB is now producing the 650b and 29er Wider rims w/ their new layup process. But the price break for volume order isn't good. From Nancy:
    For rims more than 10pcs, we do will offer a discount. Please check as below. 10pcs rims to 20pcs: USD8 (I think she means $8 USD) cheaper for each rim, 20pcs to 30pcs: USD12 cheaper for each rim, for more than 30pcs: USD15 cheaper for each rim.

    I also asked if the price break will only be for an order for rims with all the same spec...no mixing 26er and 29er. Reply from Nancy:
    The discount is the same, it depends on the total quantity.

    I see the deal being had in shipping. The shipping for my last pair I ordered was $50. And, I did price out shipping for 4 rims...same, $50. Obviously that'll go up w/ quantities in the 10's. But if by group ordering we can half the shipping per rim...all the better.

    Per MK_, if LB does change their layup process for the 26er, it'll be after the Chinese New Year at the earliest (Feb. 10th).

    So, who's interested?
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    Nancy's email on shipping breakdown...

    The shipping cost breakdown is as below.
    2pcs rims: USD50 to USA
    4pcs rims: USD71
    10pcs rims: USD127
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  3. #3
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    Let's talk about a group order for some cheap Light-Bicycle carbon rims

    I haven't read the mega forum. Can you give us a synopsis?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  4. #4
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    Technology Improve Of Light-Bicycle Carbon MTB 650B Rims Light-Bicycle

    They've improved the layup apparently, or are about to. I've been eyeing them myself, especially after this latest post. I'm in.
    The correct number of bikes one should own is N+1, where N is the number of bikes currently owned.

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    Let's talk about a group order for some cheap Light-Bicycle carbon rims

    Just read a little on the other hijacked thread . Count me in when you get more on pricing, etc.

    On spoke tension, I wonder if this is more common on 29ers (lower tension). I've built Stan's arch and flow rims and both have pretty low tension numbers (100 if I remember correctly). If you over-tighten, they actually get weaker...
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  6. #6
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    I'm in for after the Chinese New Year. My personal theory is that the cracks happen on the weaker side of the rim (when you look at the cross sections of the old vs new rim, the old rim has less reinforcement on one side). I do dent rim beads so I'm a prime candidate for cracking one of these spendy things.

    I'll be in for 2pcs of Wide 26er once the improvement trickles down.

    _MK

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  7. #7
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    Yeah, I was eyeballing that cross section pic... I think they posted that to show the extreme case of potential inconsistencies in the old method.
    I'm personally looking at about mid-March to early April before I can throw down... I'm a Fed and they don't pay me much, so I'll need the tax return
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  8. #8
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    That's a characteristic of Stan's rims, they're not rated for as high a tension as other rims. These carbon ones are rated for higher than I think it's really feasible to build (180kgs).

    I'd be a pair of wide strong 29er rims if we pull this together.

    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Just read a little on the other hijacked thread . Count me in when you get more on pricing, etc.

    On spoke tension, I wonder if this is more common on 29ers (lower tension). I've built Stan's arch and flow rims and both have pretty low tension numbers (100 if I remember correctly). If you over-tighten, they actually get weaker...
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    If you dig thru that megathread a bit, I had up'd a batch of pics on the build and another on the (cosmetic) repair of these rims.

    While there, dig for "galvanic corrosion", or just "corrosion". In the spirit of full disclosure, there is at least 1 suspecious (alloy) nipple failure w/ these rims. Mr. Magura also up'd a table showing where materials sit as anode/cathode, and carbon/graphite to aluminum is pretty bad. So, I'm rebuilding my wheels w/ brass nipples this wknd.
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    I am in for 2 - 26ers..

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    I'm in for 2 29" XC

    So, if the price break for 10+ orders is $15usd, but the shipping is $130, doesn't that almost completely negate the price break? I'd be in if there is an actual price break.
    Something with wheels and brakes.

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    If you do the math, shipping for 2 is $25 per rim, shipping for 10+ works out to $13 per rim. So a good savings there, plus another $15 off per rim. So, a savings of about $27 per rim. Sounds like a good deal.

    I am interested in 2 of the wide 26ers.

  13. #13
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    The math...

    Quote Originally Posted by dickt3030 View Post
    I'm in for 2 29" XC

    So, if the price break for 10+ orders is $15usd, but the shipping is $130, doesn't that almost completely negate the price break? I'd be in if there is an actual price break.
    In my case:
    2 x $165 for wider 29er = $330
    1 x $50 for shipping
    ==> $380

    Group order for 10+ rims
    2 x $165 - 2 x $8 = $314
    2 x $127/10 = 2 x $12.7 = $25.4
    ==> $339.4

    ==> [1 - ($339.4/$380)] x 100 = 10.68%

    Questions; comments; complaints?

    Edit: FYI, when I bought my first pair about 6 months ago, the rims were $150 and waited about 2 months. Besides a 10% increase in price, from all reports, the wait time has bee up'd to about 3 months if they don't have what you want in stock. Since I already have a pair, I'm in no hurry. Keep this in mind when I get around to putting this group thing in action... Anyone needing rims earlier, please feel free to take over this group order effort.
    Last edited by Pau11y; 02-02-2013 at 11:38 AM.
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  14. #14
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    Rebuilt my LB wheels today...

    ...w/ brass niplers due to some galvanic corrosion concerns, and thought since I had them tore down, I'd throw them on a scale. Not nearly as light as I thought, but whatev... They're stiffer than a 20 y.o. on 200mg of Viagra tho!
    Frt: LB wider and heavier 29er (433g), King LD, DT Swiss Comps 292mm, DT hex brass, 3X
    RR: LB wider and heavier 29er (429g), King HD 142 (ss driveshell), DT Comps 292mm, DT hex brass, 3X
    Didn't really use my tension meter and just went by tone. If anyone's interested, I can slap the tension meter on them and get you some numbers. Used anti-seize for thread and nipler head lube...made for one quiet build session! Normally, I'd get creaking and popping when I side-load the wheel to unwind the nipler/spokes. This time, not a peep! I think I was able to get a bit higher tension w/ anti-seize also...the nipples didn't bind on the carbon/resin as much.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Let's talk about a group order for some cheap Light-Bicycle carbon rims-lb-king-comps-rr-1057g.jpg  

    Let's talk about a group order for some cheap Light-Bicycle carbon rims-lb-king-comp-frt-867g.jpg  

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  15. #15
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    1900+g for rims w/o skewers, rotors, valves. that does seem heavy.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Satanic Pizza View Post
    1900+g for rims w/o skewers, rotors, valves. that does seem heavy.
    Not sure how accurate that scale is...Harbor Freight score...but yeah, does seem heavy huh?
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  17. #17
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    Brass Nipples are surprisingly heavy

    Quote Originally Posted by Satanic Pizza View Post
    1900+g for rims w/o skewers, rotors, valves. that does seem heavy.
    I think you're not far off there, I counted 32 spokes, and once you add everything up, if the scale's off by 5% that gets you to 1960:



    This is one of the builds I'm considering, it's weight weenie but should still be fairly strong. It's between this and a Hope/Sapim Force build that comes in at 1811g:

    Last edited by hirschmj; 02-04-2013 at 08:19 AM. Reason: wrong second picture
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    Quote Originally Posted by hirschmj View Post
    I think you're not far off there, I counted 32 spokes, and once you add everything up, if the scale's off by 5% that gets you to 1960
    Wow, where are you finding 12 x 142 Kings w/ stainless driveshell for $388? That's a SMOKIN' deal!
    Considering you've got: the hub
    ...and you've got: the drive shell

    Say, how much do you weigh and what are you putting the AC/LB wheels on? I'm kinda curious if I went a bit overboard w/ my build

    Edit: better bang for the buck, I'd direct ppl to Erik at balleracing.com for some Hadleys...a few grams heavier, just as many PoE, and ~1/2 the price w/ Ti driveshell. Only down part, you may need to make (or buy) some tools to service these hubs.
    Last edited by Pau11y; 02-04-2013 at 03:53 PM.
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  19. #19
    MK_
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    You can save some money on the American Classic hubs and buy the WTB Laser Disc hubs since they're the same thing.

    The CK HD rear hub is pretty heavy. That 1900g+ wheelset would have been about 150g less with Aerolites or Revolutions and Aluminum nipples. Granted, building up a 29er with Revolutions is a huge pain.

    The galvanic corrosion is a bigger issue in wet climates according to a mechanical engineering buddy I spoke with yesterday. It's even worse in marine environment (what he designs for).

    _MK

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    The CK HD rear hub is pretty heavy. That 1900g+ wheelset would have been about 150g less with Aerolites or Revolutions and Aluminum nipples. Granted, building up a 29er with Revolutions is a huge pain.

    The galvanic corrosion is a bigger issue in wet climates according to a mechanical engineering buddy I spoke with yesterday. It's even worse in marine environment (what he designs for).

    _MK
    I looked at the Revos and Aerolites... too expensive and flexy for me. I have a set of Reynolds MTNs (26er - Chainlove score) that came w/ those Revos...28h 2x w/ 38mm(?) tall rims. I seem to be able to "feel" the wheel give in turns. A bit unnerving when I've been using Comps and Champs to build wheels that don't give much. Plus, I seem to flip a lot of rock into the spokes, and the Revos are mighty thin where rocks typically hit my spokes. Aerolites are even thinner and more expensive! They do build amazingly nice road wheels tho!
    That table Mr Magura up'd for galvanic corrosion did mention it was for marine environs...for bits exposed to salty water. But whatev... At 190 kitted up and the speeds a long travel 29er can get up to plowing into rocks (I have big fat/heavy tires to help w/ this too), I'll live w/ the brass if for no other reason than a placebo peace of mind.
    Oh, when I ordered up my wheel bits, I also got some Fulcrum nipple washers... They won't fit thru the LB rims inner wall drilling...FYI.

    If I were building a set of race day wheels for an XCer less than 150 lbs, I'd go w/ Revo/Aerolites and alloy niplers... But for my slacker (I hate doing wheel repairs) and fat ass, I'll stick w/ the Comps w/ brass and maybe get more than a couple of seasons out of these wheels...maybe
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    If I were building a set of race day wheels for an XCer less than 150 lbs, I'd go w/ Revo/Aerolites and alloy niplers... But for my slacker (I hate doing wheel repairs) and fat ass, I'll stick w/ the Comps w/ brass and maybe get more than a couple of seasons out of these wheels...maybe
    I've been building my wheelsets with Aerolites and CX-Rays for years. These get treated pretty harshly on a 6in do it all bike (can't afford a DH rig anymore nor a XC bike). The spokes have had a lifespan and durability of any other spoke I've run. They build a much lighter wheelset. Sapim claims that the bladed nature of a CX-Ray gives it the longest fatigue life of any spoke they make. In essence the Aerolite is a Revolution stamped flat. The largest benefit to me is during the wheel build; I can hold the spoke and prevent it from winding when tensioning up the wheels.

    _MK

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    I've been building my wheelsets with Aerolites and CX-Rays for years. These get treated pretty harshly on a 6in do it all bike (can't afford a DH rig anymore nor a XC bike). The spokes have had a lifespan and durability of any other spoke I've run. They build a much lighter wheelset. Sapim claims that the bladed nature of a CX-Ray gives it the longest fatigue life of any spoke they make. In essence the Aerolite is a Revolution stamped flat. The largest benefit to me is during the wheel build; I can hold the spoke and prevent it from winding when tensioning up the wheels.

    _MK
    Good to know on the lifespan!
    The blades are holding up well to rock hits? What do you weigh in at, kitted up?

    I made my own little tool to help w/ (round) spoke wind up. A pair of medium sized NAPA or Ace Hardware bargain bin needle nose plier w/ its nose Dremel'd off...you want only that smooth gripping surface. Then, Dremel in a "V" shaped channel into the flat surface at ~ 30 degree to the flat axis of the pliers that's almost as deep as 3/4 of a spoke diameter (so you can use it on 14 and 15g spokes). This way, you can grip the spoke during those high tension fine tuning sessions that you'd typically get wind up, at an angle where you won't feel like your wrist is going to snap
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  23. #23
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    They must as I've never had an issue of a rock doing damage. I'm ~200lbs in full kit with 100oz of water.

    BTW, I've got an interested friend in one set of wide 29er rims. So jot me down for a set of wide 26er and 29er hoops.

    _MK

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    They must as I've never had an issue of a rock doing damage. I'm ~200lbs in full kit with 100oz of water.

    BTW, I've got an interested friend in one set of wide 29er rims. So jot me down for a set of wide 26er and 29er hoops.

    _MK
    I'm going to pole this thread again when I'm closer to order time. I'll email Nancy about the possibility of setting up a group order number or something so those involved can just reference that thing from a list I'll get her...
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  25. #25
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    Revos are the same price as Comps, give or take $0.10.

    I go 210 without gear, give or take. The price for the King was the hub with the stock aluminum drive shell, not the stainless steel one. These wheels are currently for a Niner JET9, though they're intended to graduate to a Yeti SB-95c once that becomes a real thing. I do think the brass nipples are overkill, I don't anticipate noticeable corrosion on the aluminum nipples.

    I've been looking at the data here every now and then, but there's a ton of it. I'm trying to isolate wheels by spoke count (32 is most common) and spoke type (2-1.8-2, 1.8-1.6-1.8, straight 1.8, etc) and the spoke gauge correlates very poorly with deflection, or stiffness. What does seem to correlate with deflection is the rim strength - the Mavic GEL280's (a weight weenie road rim) are universally less stiff than Mavic X222's (a cross country mountain rim), regardless of spoke.

    That plus the fatigue life claimed by the thin CX-Ray's makes me think spoke gauge isn't as important to wheel stiffness as the rim stiffness is. I may still go with Sapim Force spokes (2.18-1.8-2.0) for a little peace of mind, but I do think D-Lights would work just fine. I've heard from a wheelbuilding guy I trust that while Brass nipples definitely don't corrode and in the past they were definitely stronger, Aluminum nipples have pretty much caught up in terms of strength and are fine for building with. Note from Sheldon's site that, contrary to what people jabber about on the internet, wheel stiffness has little to do with spoke tension, once they're tensioned properly. Screwing the nipples down as hard as you can only gets you a couple percent.

    I have broken two spokes on my rear Stan's Arch EX rear, but none on the front yet, this is a bit over one season, give or take. They use 2-1.7-2 spokes, and I do think they were related to being hit on rocks or something. I also feel like I can sometimes feel the Arch wheels squirm under hard cornering, but I'm right up against the weight limit of 230lbs with gear on.

    Thanks for the tip on the Laser Discs, I'll look into that further.
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  26. #26
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    $900-$1000 wheels on the "commuter" excel tab? you're doing it wrong

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    Quote Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    $900-$1000 wheels on the "commuter" excel tab? you're doing it wrong
    ...or he's doing something really right.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hirschmj View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the Laser Discs, I'll look into that further.
    I like these as a race hub but haven't had too much luck as an everyday beater hub. Aside from the weight, my favorite thing about these is ease of disassembly and cost if you're looking for used. Reasonable engagement but recommend running an xt or 1080 and above.

    Having said that the newer American Classic hubs are supposed to have a couple of the leading edges of the splines made from some sort of steel. Don't know if that's trickled over to wtb laser disc lites or not.

    ymmv

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by lubes17319 View Post
    ...or he's doing something really right.***
    That spreadsheet started as a place to collect spoke data for a commuter wheelset that wound up coming in just under $200, but has since grown as a repository for any and everything related to wheelbuilding.* I can post it up as a google doc if there's interest.

    I'm starting to come around to spokes actually making a fairly big difference, which would make sense, if you think about it AT ALL.

    I pared the wheel deflection chart from Sheldon Brown down to wheels with the same number of spokes, 32, and several different spoke diameters:

    1.8-1.6 butted avg deflection 2.146
    1.8 straight avg deflection 2.198
    2.0-1.8 butted avg deflection 1.952
    2.0 straight avg deflection 1.361

    The straight gauge 2.0 spokes buck the trend here, for sure. The number of data points isn't great for this type of analysis, only 6 for the 1.8 straight gauged spokes, for example, 3 of which were Mavic GEL280's, a weight weenie road rim. Rim type matters a great deal I think, so it's bad form to ignore it as I've done here. Similarly, the 2.0-1.8 only had 5 points, 2 of which were GEL280's, although they measured quite a bit stiffer than the 1.8 straight spokes.

    Ignoring spoke type and rim:

    <24 spokes avg deflection 2.622
    24 spokes avg deflection 2.316
    28 spokes avg deflection 2.051
    32 spokes avg deflection 1.823
    36 spokes avg deflection 1.499

    Spoke count is cleaner. More is better, that seems certain. That, or people who build with more spokes tend to pick bigger spokes and beefier rims, and it reinforces the trend.

    There's a few rims where they were built several different ways, like the GEL280's. In one case, one front wheel was 30% stiffer with a tall track hub compared to a lightweight Dura Ace hub, spokes, nipples, and crossing patterns otherwise identical. Likewise, there are many front/rear pairs represented, and front wheels are almost always 20-30% stiffer due to wider spacing on the hubs (no gears to make room for in front).

    At this point in time, I believe almost all hubs are similarly flange-distanced for 135mm mountain bike spacing - there's simply a certain amount of room that's required for disc brakes and gears. Maybe you can get a millimeter here or there, but there's virtually identical. If you can get a hub designed for singlespeed - it should make a stiffer wheel.

    I'm now leaning back towards Hope hubs (or something similarly bombproof) and Force spokes, 32 hole. Possibly even 36. If the 2.0 32 hole data point is a fluke, that might lead you back to believing spoke diameter is less important and what you want are lots of skinny spokes.

    The actual data table is here:
    Wheel Deflection Test Results Table
    Last edited by hirschmj; 02-05-2013 at 08:29 AM. Reason: Formatting
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    Don't get too hung up on wheel stiffness. Some flex is actually good as it helps the wheel track the terrain better. Also, less stiff wheels can be stronger as when they stretch during a big impact, a larger portion of the rim takes the blow, effectively. Spokes going elbows out vs elbows in do more to stiffness, according to that Sheldon Brown writeup than the gauge of the spoke. As does the rim itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    Don't get too hung up on wheel stiffness. Some flex is actually good as it helps the wheel track the terrain better. Also, less stiff wheels can be stronger as when they stretch during a big impact, a larger portion of the rim takes the blow, effectively. Spokes going elbows out vs elbows in do more to stiffness, according to that Sheldon Brown writeup than the gauge of the spoke. As does the rim itself.
    MK, I think it was you who had mentioned building w/ Revos were a PITA...? Why, too noodly and stretching all over the place or did they wind up too much? The smallest I've gone in the last 5 years has been Comps so no exp w/ Revos.
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  32. #32
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    They wind up excessively. With your needle nose pliers trick, it may be fine.

    Before you diagnose yourself with depression or low self-esteem, first make sure that you are not just surrounded by a*holes

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    Ummm...HOLY CRAP!

    Looks like I need to do some reading on the Wheels forum!!!

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims? - Page 131

    Here's the Enve Corrosion thread's 2nd page...scroll down a bit for the pics. You might want to read the initial post by the OP as well...
    ENVE wheel nipple corrosion.

    Edit: hum...the next great wiz-bang/million dollar...cathodic protection for carbon bike bits...little watch battery taped on the nice expensive Enve or King hubs?
    Last edited by Pau11y; 02-05-2013 at 10:39 AM.
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  34. #34
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    We agree, I think. Stretchier spokes theoretically would distribute force over a wider arc, and a stiffer rim would distribute force over a wider arc. Dunno about flexy terrain tracking, I pay Fox for that, I think I'd rather have my wheels aim where I point them. I also agree on elbows out, though that only matters with a radially laced wheel. With disc brakes and 3 cross half the spokes have to elbow in regardless.

    And yes, the problem with Revolution spokes is windup and false tension. You can potentially tighten a spoke a full 360 degrees at high tension and not actually move the nipple up the threads, creating false tension that releases itself as you ride and makes the wheel untrue. Bladed spokes help with this because you can see them winding and stop them with your fingers. Towards the end of a build you start having to turn them 1/4 turn and back off 1/8 turn to release the windup, but that starts getting higher and higher as you go, 1/2 turn tighten, 3/8 turn back, and so forth.



    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    Don't get too hung up on wheel stiffness. Some flex is actually good as it helps the wheel track the terrain better. Also, less stiff wheels can be stronger as when they stretch during a big impact, a larger portion of the rim takes the blow, effectively. Spokes going elbows out vs elbows in do more to stiffness, according to that Sheldon Brown writeup than the gauge of the spoke. As does the rim itself.
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  35. #35
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    So the moral here is that we should add 20g to all carbon wheel weights due to the crutch of galvanic corrosion and the necessity to use brass nipples.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    So the moral here is that we should add 20g to all carbon wheel weights due to the crutch of galvanic corrosion and the necessity to use brass nipples.
    ...or don't use Gorilla tape to seal the rims for tubeless if you're using Stan's goo?
    I used the Bontrager Rhythm strips in mine...NICE tubeless strips! Maybe someone (else) can do a group order for those 'cause their shipping prices are stoopid!
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    ...or don't use Gorilla tape to seal the rims for tubeless if you're using Stan's goo?
    I used the Bontrager Rhythm strips in mine...NICE tubeless strips! Maybe someone (else) can do a group order for those 'cause their shipping prices are stoopid!
    Yeah, that thought hit me as well. I'm wondering if running tubes eliminates the issue. Afterall, sealant introduces moisture inside the rim cavity.

    _MK

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    Yeah, that thought hit me as well. I'm wondering if running tubes eliminates the issue. Afterall, sealant introduces moisture inside the rim cavity.

    _MK
    Hey, problem solved!

    Titanium Bike Wheel Nipples - Bicycle Spoke Nipples | Titan Wheel Tech Bicycle Components
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    Dang, $45/wheel for nipples. I may just stay with my i23s.

    _MK

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    When were you thinking about putting the order in? I broke my 3rd spoke on the rear wheel last night and I'm starting to get concerned I'm too close to the weight limit for my wheels.

    In related news, I'm no longer considering D-light spokes, I'm back to Sapim Force's.
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    Just e-filed...so...what like 2 - 3 wks? If you need sooner, start the group order and I'll join or do another when I'm ready.
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    Incidentally, PinkBike is running a DT sponsored article about spokes. Lots of good info about butted vs. straight gauge spokes, etc.
    Worth a read: To the Point - DT Swiss Talks Spokes - Pinkbike

    _MK

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    _MK, Hirschmj, et al,

    Sorry, but I can't order rims w/ the impending sequestration and potential furlough. I AM the low guy on the pole so I'd be one of the first to go. I haven't started any work w/ Nancy yet so if one of you would like to take this ball and run, feel free.

    Gotta love the Feds and how dysfunctional it is...YAY!
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    So here's who's interested so far, assuming nothing's changed (unlikely):

    hirschmj: 2x wide strong 29er - 32h
    MK_: 2x wide 26er
    skogorbet: 2x wide 26er
    Josie7: 2x 26er
    dickt3030: 2x 29er

    Errbody who's still interested, PM me or post in the thread confirming I've got this right, that the width is what you're looking for, and get me a hole count, and I'll email Nancy and see about a quote for shipping and all that.

    Anyone have experience with how to handle money in these situations, like from a Fox fork group buy or something? Do we all pay light-bicycle separately, or does someone bankroll this and have people pay them when they pick up their rims?
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    Quote Originally Posted by hirschmj View Post
    So here's who's interested so far, assuming nothing's changed (unlikely):

    hirschmj: 2x wide strong 29er - 32h
    MK_: 2x wide 26er
    skogorbet: 2x wide 26er
    Josie7: 2x 26er
    dickt3030: 2x 29er

    Errbody who's still interested, PM me or post in the thread confirming I've got this right, that the width is what you're looking for, and get me a hole count, and I'll email Nancy and see about a quote for shipping and all that.

    Anyone have experience with how to handle money in these situations, like from a Fox fork group buy or something? Do we all pay light-bicycle separately, or does someone bankroll this and have people pay them when they pick up their rims?
    Hirschmj,
    I was going to email Nancy to have her make up an order number where ppl can include in something like the "P.O." line. So the money DOESN'T go thru your bank account.

    The other thought is setting something up thru paypal...

    You might also want to CLEARLY state in a post or something that YOU won't be responsible for ANY warranty issues.

    Just a $0.02 fer ya.
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    Interesting thread......so unless you guys all live in the same town, there is going to be an additional shipping expense from the guy that is holding the inventory. Light-Bicycle also charges around 7% Paypal fees.

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    This is the Colorado front range forum.

    By the way, if anyone else is actually in for this group buy, please reply again with your preferred width and diameter or PM me, only one person has so far. We're ordering soon.
    The correct number of bikes one should own is N+1, where N is the number of bikes currently owned.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hirschmj View Post
    This is the Colorado front range forum.

    By the way, if anyone else is actually in for this group buy, please reply again with your preferred width and diameter or PM me, only one person has so far. We're ordering soon.
    hey hirsch.

    did I miss a link describing the specs for the different options? I went through the thread and didnt read everything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by guacamole View Post
    hey hirsch.

    did I miss a link describing the specs for the different options? I went through the thread and didnt read everything.

    carbon mountain bike-mountain bike,mountains bikes,carbon mountain bike,carbon mtb bike,mtb bike,carbon bike Light-Bicycle

    there's a ridiculously long thread - (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    If I remember correctly, Paully already has a pair of these. Not to send a ton of spam his way but he addressed some of my questions regarding durability, construction quality and his insane tire weight

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt Disney's Frozen Head View Post
    If I remember correctly, Paully already has a pair of these. Not to send a ton of spam his way but he addressed some of my questions regarding durability, construction quality and his insane tire weight
    Ahhh jeebus! Rub it in why don't ya...sitting here watching this go down while I ponder if those asshats on the Hill will furlough my ass :P

    Quac, besides the published options, you can also request for an unpublished option of "heavier/stronger". Mine came in at 429g and 433g, by the old layup process. But my intent for this thread was a lighter wheelset for longer/epic rides.

    WDFH, I did find me some Rocket Ron 2.4 USTs, about 1/2 the weight of those Contis. And per _MK's info, some Aerolites... Also, if I can find me a deal on some XTR cassette... But nothing till after the end of March and the next Fed crisis with the debt ceiling. This friggin' gov...I tell ya! ::facepalm::
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