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  1. #1
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    Joplin 3R rebuild - reliability experiment

    My new post lost its ability to hold position after about 3 or 4 rides. It developed about an inch of squish. I'll report back if the use of heavier oil remedies the Joplin's non-existent reliability.

    Rebuild step by step instructions. I found a few tricks during the rebuild process.

    First, when dis-assembling, don't take apart the upper valve assembly unless you need to (steps 11-17). Try and drain as much of the 5 wt OE oil from the upper chamber as possible by holding the post at ~ 20 degrees and con't pressing and releasing the travel lever. This will drain the oil more efficiently. If kept completely vertical there's some sort of vacuum that won't let the oil come out.

    Second, the experiment. When refilling, I used 20/50 wt motor oil. The mechanics of the internal requires a goofy valve to seal. With the 5 wt, there just doesn't seem to be enough gooey-ness to do the trick. I'm hoping the thicker oil will compensate for the crappy valve design. The only drawback w/ the heavier oil...the post is slighter slower on extension.

    Lastly, during reassembly, the lower chamber of the upper tube is topped (to the screw holes) then the post completely assembled. Then, cycle it several times inverted to get the oil into the upper chamber and then disassembled again (inverted so as to not pull a BP - good idea to do this over an oil pan). Fill that lower chamber of the upper tube to the max again and let the oil weep out the screw holes when the piston portion is inserted/assembled. Don't clean this oil off of the outer surface as it'll help w/ lubing everything once assembled. I use Slick Honey to keep everything slickery vs. the suggested white grease. I also didn't overkilled the grease coating on the exterior of the upper tube, nowhere near the extent of coverage like when the post was first cracked open.

    Fingers crossed...

    --
    .......__o
    .......\ \,
    ....( )/ ( )

  2. #2
    Kaj
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    Hopefully that works for you.

    If troubles persist, Crank Brothers is taking any old Joplin including the original Maverick ones, and letting you trade them in for about $150 for a new Joplin 4. The 4 seems to have better seals, and it definitely has less play. Most folks never cared much about the side to side play, but with the 2 shims holding it in place now instead of one, it's basically no play. We can take the posts at the shop, we don't make any $$ on the replacement, but will help out anyone who wants to upgrade.

    Some of the original ones never had an issue, for example my 4 year old Maverick Speedball has never been rebuilt and it still works great. Others have rebuilt theirs 10 times...

    Hope your rebuild holds.
    Helping folks shred in Boulder & Colorado since 1982 www.fullcyclebikes.com

  3. #3
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    I took a two pronged approach
    1) Gravity Dropper
    2) Submitted a Service Request on Crank Bros. for a Joplin 4. They quoted me at $125, shipping not included.
    I'll have a spare now which I'll run on my singlespeed
    Good luck

  4. #4
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    Holly Rocket Science. Thanks for taking the time to put togeter rebuild directions.

    I hope my new joplin 4 holds up. So far so good.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaydude
    Holly Rocket Science. Thanks for taking the time to put togeter rebuild directions.

    I hope my new joplin 4 holds up. So far so good.
    I like making things more complicated; should go work for the goberman...HAHA! Wanna see my writeup for how to make a PB & J?

    edit: if it doesn't work, I'll upgrade to the 4.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaj
    Hopefully that works for you.

    If troubles persist, Crank Brothers is taking any old Joplin including the original Maverick ones, and letting you trade them in for about $150 for a new Joplin 4. The 4 seems to have better seals, and it definitely has less play. Most folks never cared much about the side to side play, but with the 2 shims holding it in place now instead of one, it's basically no play. We can take the posts at the shop, we don't make any $$ on the replacement, but will help out anyone who wants to upgrade.

    Some of the original ones never had an issue, for example my 4 year old Maverick Speedball has never been rebuilt and it still works great. Others have rebuilt theirs 10 times...

    Hope your rebuild holds.
    Will they do that with an All Mountain Post??
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  7. #7
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    Anyone have a fix for keeping the thread ring tight? After downhills the thread ring comes loose and I get an inch of squish when I raise it before the next climb. I have to stop tighten the thread ring and cycle the post to get the squish to go away. It takes longer than raising or lowering a normal seatpost.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojobeer
    Anyone have a fix for keeping the thread ring tight? After downhills the thread ring comes loose and I get an inch of squish when I raise it before the next climb. I have to stop tighten the thread ring and cycle the post to get the squish to go away. It takes longer than raising or lowering a normal seatpost.
    Blue Loctite?
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  9. #9
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    Fix #1 - Gravity Dropper
    Fix #2 to what Paully proposes is teflon tape. Held great for me after experiencing same problem.

  10. #10
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    Hi, I have the old Joplin 3R and it will no longer fully extend and has massive side to side play in it. I bought it from Australia and was wondering what I need to do to get it fixed or replaced with a 4R?

    its really frustrating me as its not staying in top position anymore, wont return to top position without manual assistance and has the same rotational freedom as my office swivel chair!!!

    argh!!!!!


    Thanks!
    Loz

  11. #11
    Pivot Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by lozza6
    Hi, I have the old Joplin 3R and it will no longer fully extend and has massive side to side play in it. I bought it from Australia and was wondering what I need to do to get it fixed or replaced with a 4R?

    its really frustrating me as its not staying in top position anymore, wont return to top position without manual assistance and has the same rotational freedom as my office swivel chair!!!

    argh!!!!!


    Thanks!
    Loz
    Hey Loz -- see Kaj's post above. Call Full Cycle and talk with them about replacing the Joplin 3r with the Joplin 4r.

    Good Luck!
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  12. #12
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    Thanks YG, but I'm in Australia so not sure if a Colorado shop can help me. I've given CB an email so we'll see how that goes.

    Do I have to go the 4R or can I just get my Joplin r classic fixed?

    Hmm

  13. #13
    killin clear creek
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    Paully, when you get done don't forget to drill the aerodynamics holes, for speed & weight. Makes a big difference.
    Quote Originally Posted by thump View Post
    How about we take the "let it burn approach" with the rotting cesspool of the Denver metro?

  14. #14
    Rolling
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y
    My new post lost its ability to hold position after about 3 or 4 rides.
    What? What is the cost per ride? Then one could pay to upgrade?

    Is that acceptable?

    Not to me it wouldn't be. I won't be buying one anytime soon.

    Looking forward to the outcome here.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lidarman
    Looking forward to the outcome here.
    Right. So, got my 5th back from Avy and the bike is 100% again. AND, the post is holding air pressure and oil albeit, the post was left for a month extended.
    With the end of DH season coming, I'll be trail riding again (haven't been on the trail since I repaired the 3R). So, once I get back on the trail again, anything past 4 rides and my rebuild would have bettered the stock build.
    Maybe I can get w/ IE and get back into trail riding shape with him
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  16. #16
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    Hello. Cheers for the write up! Im having issues with steps 11 and 12. I can see the valve body assembly but am unsure where it is being pushed out from. I will have to disassemble the lever and push from the top?

    cheers

    gson

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gson
    Hello. Cheers for the write up! Im having issues with steps 11 and 12. I can see the valve body assembly but am unsure where it is being pushed out from. I will have to disassemble the lever and push from the top?

    cheers

    gson
    Gson,
    When I did mine, I didn't take it this far...didn't touch the valve (AFA I can recall). When I thought about what I did after, by overfilling the oil by like 5cc I think just kept the air chamber from emptying all of its oil content on extension. Also, mtr oil doesn't have anti-foaming additive so I'm sure some of the oil/air emulsifies to something w/ mayonnaise consistency which may be helping the seal. I'm just hoping this air/oil emulsion is breaking down into its constituents if the post is left inactive for a bit as I don't want a seatpost full of grease I witnessed this when I used assembly oil (that red maple syrup-like stuff) in place of Float fluid in my DHX Air air sleeve service. Anyway...

    BTW, I've been out w/ the post on Chimney and P-blow (2 rides). So far, no hint of the post loosing it's ability to hold position. I've ordered a KS post's remote (from Scott @ Go-Ride) for my Joplin as I use Lock-on grips. Will report back on this mix.
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  18. #18
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    Can I just bring mine over and have you do it ?
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndecentExposure
    Can I just bring mine over and have you do it ?
    How's about if we just go out to P-Blow again instead of working on bikes? The Blur needs to be taken out after I get the Reverb on it
    I'll get the Steamboat ppl to come down and you can get the Canyon Pt Nomad crew. Someone needs to get that red-headed stepchild SS, altho he's still skiing and is rejecting the biking reality of P-Blow
    Maybe if he sees Jaydude's vid from this past wknd...
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  20. #20
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    Oh, i've worked on a few of these!!!
    Some tips:
    Once the motor oil does get a bit emulsified it will take longer to release the bubbles.
    We've had the best success with lighter wt oils, but if it's working cool.
    The valve is a simple urethane o-ring that is lifted when you actate the lever, when closed the pressure of sitting actually makes the ring seal more. Once in a while the valve o-ring gets pinched and will not seal up well, and this can change as oil is pushed thru...

    Blue locktite on the outer seal ring, a must!

    Locktite:
    Very impotant to blue locktite all the guide block screws, this will (help) prevent the screws from shearing, a known issue with these posts. (Oil spuing from the top...!)

    Venting:
    Drill a small (2mm) hole in the bottom of the outer tube (remove 10mm nut at bottom, remove internals...) Drill the hole in on of the pin tool holes. If you do this very slowly you will get any alloy bits inside the tube and can just clean out the alloy bits from the drilled side. Reassemble the post, use a piece of foam, stuff into to bottom to act as an air cleaner. This greatly helps the post move faster and not have vaccum or pressure built up as you cycle the post, also keeps the post at it's lowest position better and you can make the sealhead ring tighter to better seal out dirt and not slow the post down.

    To remove all the oil:
    Keep the post charged with pressure. Remove the valve core. You will get a small bit of oil drip, aim the end of the valve into an oil bucket DOWNWARD, cover with paper towel.
    Now, gently squeeze the seatpost release lever, oil will purge out. The pressure that is on the upside of the valve will relase the oil and pressure, now cycle the compression rod to evacuate the rest.

    Maverick is still offering full service on the Maverick Speedballs and Joplin 3's (same thing)
    We also are able to replace urethane valves, use proprietary quad rings and all other updates as well.
    Contact me at ethan@maverickbike.com for that service or our rebuild guide as well. We are trying to keep folks on there Speedballs, we have a limited parts selection with the service and lots of knowledge to keep them running.
    Maverick Suspension Inc.
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  21. #21
    bacon! bacon! bacon!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y
    Someone needs to get that red-headed stepchild SS, altho he's still skiing and is rejecting the biking reality of P-Blow
    Maybe if he sees Jaydude's vid from this past wknd...
    Unlikely. By the time I'm ready to ride bikes P-Blow will be too hot.

  22. #22
    STRAVA!!!!!!
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    Some tips:


    Quote:
    Venting:
    Drill a small (2mm) hole in the bottom of the outer tube (remove 10mm nut at bottom, remove internals...) Drill the hole in on of the pin tool holes. If you do this very slowly you will get any alloy bits inside the tube and can just clean out the alloy bits from the drilled side. Reassemble the post, use a piece of foam, stuff into to bottom to act as an air cleaner. This greatly helps the post move faster and not have vaccum or pressure built up as you cycle the post, also keeps the post at it's lowest position better and you can make the sealhead ring tighter to better seal out dirt and not slow the post down.



    I just got one of these off of Chain and it worked great for a week then would not extend up by its self. Once apart I found it only had maybe 20cc of oil in it. I refilled it with 2.5 weight oil,pumped it up to 75 psi as per instructions and used the Slick Honey grease (love this stuff!) and it works great for now. As far as the venting goes, I think the piece you are referring to on my post already had holes through the two pin holes?? Am I looking at the wrong piece??

  23. #23
    Kaj
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    Hey Wafoo,

    You should send your question to Ethan directly, he's always good at responding.

    Kaj
    Helping folks shred in Boulder & Colorado since 1982 www.fullcyclebikes.com

  24. #24
    STRAVA!!!!!!
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    OK,thank you

  25. #25
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    So when you guys are taking these apart are you replacing seals or anything? Mine started leaking oil last season and looking over things today it kept leaking and is now spongy at the top. I could take it all apart and clean it but I would think it would still leak if all the seals are the same.

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