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  1. #1
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    Hydraulic or mechanical

    I am about to build up a new bike but i have never run disc before. I am builing a giant AC2 for allmountain riding. what do you guys suggest?

  2. #2
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    Another forum. Try "Brake Time" or "Beginner's Corner"




    Hydraulic of course! Cables stretch, rust, get sticky when dirt gets into the housing. Many mechanicals still require adjusting the pads for wear.... No brainer, really.
    "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit." - And I agree.

  3. #3
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    I run BB7s and while they are alright, I would definitely go with hydros next. Juicy 7s or even Juicy 5's just feel better to me than my BB7s

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtydee
    I am about to build up a new bike but i have never run disc before. I am builing a giant AC2 for allmountain riding. what do you guys suggest?
    If you plan to really do it, go hydro. If you plan on a relatively cheap hydro set up go cable. Nice hydros are top notch, lower end ones are not as nice as mechanical. It all depends on the pricepoint.

  5. #5
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    Why choose? Run one of each. Symmetry is overrated.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgltrak
    Why choose? Run one of each. Symmetry is overrated.
    Come to think of it, each of my bikes has one disc and one V. Symmetry really is overrated

  7. #7
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    I thought about going to the Brake time forum. however I thought that the riders in Colorado would have more insight on which system works best for our conditions. Thanks for the advise!


    Quote Originally Posted by Kaba Klaus
    Another forum. Try "Brake Time" or "Beginner's Corner"




    Hydraulic of course! Cables stretch, rust, get sticky when dirt gets into the housing. Many mechanicals still require adjusting the pads for wear.... No brainer, really.

  8. #8
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    just get hydros.....

  9. #9
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    hydros.
    not worth it to go with mechanicals. You already have mechanical discs (cantilevers+rim).
    **** censorship

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by subliminalshiver
    hydros.
    not worth it to go with mechanicals. You already have mechanical discs (cantilevers+rim).
    i got some old 26" rotors that run hydros
    six pack cooler coming soon!

  11. #11
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    I like my BB7s, no brainer day to day. I'm sure I could spend a ton on some high end hydros and love the feel. 100 bones for front and rear is pretty good.

  12. #12
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    If you are going to go Hydo....

    Spend the money and get a good set, entry level hydros just don't cut it.

    I had Hayes enty level Hydros, Sole, which I replaced with a set of BB5s, which I really like, $120.00 for everything for the BB5s, much simpler to adjust and maintain.
    Those Soles were the only reason I have taken a bike to the shop in the last 4 years, I absolutely sucked at bleeding them.

    BTW, the Soles are in the garage, 30 bucks if anyone wants them, complete set, rotors, calipers lines and levers.
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  13. #13
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    hydros

  14. #14
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    psssh. Hydros if you have extra money, need to impress people and / or are concerned with weight. Or maybe if you way a bunch more than the average guy, but then you won't be happy w/ standard (non-dh) hydros, either.
    Mechs (bb7's) if you want super easy to install, bulletproof, and like more adjustments for less money. Oh, and if you have some old v brake levers floating around in your garage, you can use them. In the desert (where we live), cables don't need much extra tlc, either.
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  15. #15
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    hydro's. waste that they make anything else. you won't save more than a hundie going mech. they are pieces of sh*t. only subject in MTB'ing that i am uncompromising on. mech is worthless. you can get xt's (REAL solid brakes) for 260 a set, pre-bled. just bolt on.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bull_D
    they are pieces of sh*t. only subject in MTB'ing that i am uncompromising on. mech is worthless.
    Not true at all. There are several reasons to run mechanical brakes. Ease of adjustment, amount of adjustment, the ability to easily tailor your cable length to your liking... oh and they work, too. The BB5 I run on my slopestlye bike has one-finger lock-em up power. I run mechanical mainly so I can run a really long cable for x-ups and barspins.

    So while mechanical may not be perfect, they indeed do have a genuine use and purpose.

  17. #17
    skillz to pay billz
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    I know a few endurance guys who swear by mechanicals for dependability.

  18. #18
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    so here is another question. whats a good wheelset to run. something not to expensive yet good for allmountain.

  19. #19
    Slopestyle Rider
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    Sun Rhyno-Lite is a really good wheelset.

    http://mojowheels.com/shopsite_sc/st...om-wheels.html

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by joelalamo45
    Sun Rhyno-Lite is a really good wheelset.

    http://mojowheels.com/shopsite_sc/st...om-wheels.html
    Funny i was just looking at the set on Mojo's page

  21. #21
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    Some hydro's feel really sluggish in cold weather. I had some Hayes Strokers, and sold them for that very reason. I run BB7s with organic pads, full-length housing, and Avid Black Ops levers, and don't have any problems with power or modulation.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  22. #22
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    All in all, a good set of hydros will outperform the mechanicals; however, since this is your first set of disc brakes I would go with mechanicals. You won't have to deal with bleeding the lines, contaminating your rotors and pads, etc. Replacing cables is easy and the Avid mechanicals are very decent brakes.

    _MK

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bull_D
    hydro's. waste that they make anything else. you won't save more than a hundie going mech. they are pieces of sh*t. only subject in MTB'ing that i am uncompromising on. mech is worthless. you can get xt's (REAL solid brakes) for 260 a set, pre-bled. just bolt on.

    Sounds like you have experience w/ hayes mechs...
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  24. #24
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    You pussies use brakes?
    ****

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by joelalamo45
    Not true at all. There are several reasons to run mechanical brakes. Ease of adjustment, amount of adjustment, the ability to easily tailor your cable length to your liking... oh and they work, too. The BB5 I run on my slopestlye bike has one-finger lock-em up power. I run mechanical mainly so I can run a really long cable for x-ups and barspins.

    So while mechanical may not be perfect, they indeed do have a genuine use and purpose.
    i fully respect your opinion (learned to say that before i disagree with my girlfriend ) i'm sure there are apps like yours that they have a purpose. but IMHO if he is planning on riding good, solid, old fashioned AM/XC mech's are worthless. after a day of riding tough descents your hands are toast. "one finger lock-em up" is not always a good thing.....modulation is a real key. mech's have poor modulation.....more in the all or nothing arena. to respond to your reasons.....1. hydros self adjust....much easier than regularly adjusting mech's. 2. adjusting cable length is a bit harder than cable, but not rocket surgery. there is always the LBS.
    obviously financial concerns drive a lot of our component choices. but the diff in price is pretty small compared to the gap in performance. my guess is most posting here that use mech's have not used hydros, so i am not sure how they can compare. i bet there are quite a few who HAD mech's and now run hydros....including myself. probably a more "experienced" opinion from those who have run both.
    if there is anybody on here old enough to have driven a car that had mechanical brakes........it is the same exact comparison. don't see them on cars too much anymore. scary.

  26. #26
    Your retarded
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    Alright, first off, this thread needs to ship to the black hole that is the "all mountain" forum, and take that damn buzz word with it.

    Secondly, Bull_D, I'm not sure what mechanicals you are basing your opinions on, but there are some stellar mechanical and hydraulic brakes out there and there are really crappy ones. This is this dudes first set of disc brakes. Having owned Codes, Juicy 5's and 7's, HFX-9's, HS-33's, and BB7's, he should probably start out with a good mechanical and levers of his choice before going to hydraulic brakes. I understand your reasoning, but the cost hurdle to get onto a decent hydraulic disc brake makes up for some of the draw-backs of mechanical discs. A good mechanical disc, such as the BB7, will perform just as well as a decent hydraulic for the type of riding he's claiming to be doing; XC and (F that Fing "AM" term) trail riding. And if he's asking "what's the best... for the money," he's not going to be able to get a hydraulic disc brake that performs better than a good mechanical disc brake anyway.

    dirtydee, I won't tell you what to buy, but I recommend that you seriously consider the Avid BB7's. if you are worried about stopping power, get a larger front rotor than you would normally. If you are the jolly green giant type like me, you'll be fine running a 203mm/185mm f/r BB7 combo on a trail bike. No one's going to point and laugh at your big brakes... but they may poke fun at your "more to love" size. I speak from experience. ;-)
    A trail thatís too difficult wouldnít exist because itíd never be used. But, trails can exist thatíre too difficult for you.

  27. #27
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    I so have some of the larger rotors. It seems like for the most part that the BB7's are the way to start.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nickle
    I speak from experience. ;-)
    The more out of shape you are, the steeper the hill looks.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtydee
    I so have some of the larger rotors. It seems like for the most part that the BB7's are the way to start.
    I tried some BB7's last week and I like those better than my HFX-9's.... but I'm pretty sure I like jamming my foot into the tire better than my HFX-9's so take that for what its worth.

  30. #30
    Your retarded
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    There are two terms I avoid with every bit of effort in my human strength: "all mountain" and "fo-shizzle". Got that Keebler Elf?



    Quote Originally Posted by liqwid
    I tried some BB7's last week and I like those better than my HFX-9's.... but I'm pretty sure I like jamming my foot into the tire better than my HFX-9's so take that for what its worth.
    A stick in the spokes is more effective than HFX-9's; certainly more predictable.
    A trail thatís too difficult wouldnít exist because itíd never be used. But, trails can exist thatíre too difficult for you.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibmkidIII
    elh oh eld

  32. #32
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    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/150...03mm-%2707.htm

    the '08s have a better adjustment knob but this price is nice

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bull_D
    i'm sure there are apps like yours that they have a purpose. but IMHO if he is planning on riding good, solid, old fashioned AM/XC mech's are worthless. after a day of riding tough descents your hands are toast. "one finger lock-em up" is not always a good thing.....modulation is a real key. mech's have poor modulation.....more in the all or nothing arena. to respond to your reasons.....1. hydros self adjust....much easier than regularly adjusting mech's. 2. adjusting cable length is a bit harder than cable, but not rocket surgery. there is always the LBS.
    Apps like his... So what about mine? I have mech discs on a bike that does everything - trail riding, dirt jumping, mountaincross. But mainly, it's a trail bike. Last Sunday, I rode it ~35 mi, with well over 5000 feet of vertical change (from my house up W. Ranch, a loop at Golden Gate and back). Were the brakes an issue under my 185lbs? No. And that's with 6" rotors front and rear. Do I ride slowly? Wasn't an option, not with Joel leading the charge (cheggit: Joel finished 17th overall in pro at D'ville the weekend before). Did I have to make any brake pad adjustments? No, and the adjustments I do make are fairly rare, slightly more often than I need to adjust my derailleurs...
    Hint: full length non-compressible housings help. And between the 2 knobs on bb7 calipers and the leverage adjustment on the levers, you have way more adjustment of modulation than with most hydros.

    So take your generalizations about mechanical discs and shove it up the rear of whatever mechanic you had adjust those things for you.
    Unless they weren't Avids, in which case, you might be correct...
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  34. #34
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    If you have cramped fingers after a day of riding mechs, I would suggest having one of those squeeze balls next to your keyboard or playstation :0

  35. #35
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    Hayes El Caminos, best brakes ever.......
    Sexual harassment...Panda.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbabuser
    Apps like his... So what about mine? I have mech discs on a bike that does everything - trail riding, dirt jumping, mountaincross. But mainly, it's a trail bike. Last Sunday, I rode it ~35 mi, with well over 5000 feet of vertical change (from my house up W. Ranch, a loop at Golden Gate and back). Were the brakes an issue under my 185lbs? No. And that's with 6" rotors front and rear. Do I ride slowly? Wasn't an option, not with Joel leading the charge (cheggit: Joel finished 17th overall in pro at D'ville the weekend before). Did I have to make any brake pad adjustments? No, and the adjustments I do make are fairly rare, slightly more often than I need to adjust my derailleurs...
    Hint: full length non-compressible housings help. And between the 2 knobs on bb7 calipers and the leverage adjustment on the levers, you have way more adjustment of modulation than with most hydros.

    So take your generalizations about mechanical discs and shove it up the rear of whatever mechanic you had adjust those things for you.
    Unless they weren't Avids, in which case, you might be correct...
    man, you guys are hurting my feeling.......you didn't start by validating it

    everyone has two things.....and one is an opinion. one of the sets of mech's i used were avids. a buddy of mine is dumping his bb-7's onto his loaner. no doubt mech's are more economical, but i think it is dubious to claim they perform better. there are great hydro's out there that are about a hundred bucks more than mech's. so, FOR ME, the performance to price comparisons make hydro's a better overall value, and based on performance alone...easy call. like i always say, whatever bike/component you love is the best one made

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bull_D
    but IMHO if he is planning on riding good, solid, old fashioned AM/XC mech's are worthless.............my guess is most posting here that use mech's have not used hydros, so i am not sure how they can compare. i bet there are quite a few who HAD mech's and now run hydros....including myself. probably a more "experienced" opinion from those who have run both.
    I took my hydros off and replaced them with mech's for:

    A). the ease of adjustment
    B). ability to add a longer cable without the use of my LBS (Go MOJO)
    C). They work really well

    And seriously, are awesome brakes required for tech XC? If you are any kind of rider you cant get by with just one working brake, regardless of the terrain. I have hit ALL of the gnarliest stuff that Keystone has to offer with just a front brake.

    I can clearly see that a well adjusted set of hydros will outdo a set of mech's, but to say that mechanical brakes don't work and are useless is redonkulous

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bull_D

    everyone has two things.....and one is an opinion.
    I just don't like seeing someone claim that some parts are worthless, when in fact, they work just fine, and the advantages offered by the parts they are pushing are minimal.

    I've owned Juicies and Formula Oro k24's, which both worked favorably compared to the Gustavs, Mono 4ti's and Hayes Mags on bikes I've borrowed. I still have the k24's on my bigger bike. When I ride the bigger bike, I don't feel like my brakes make as big an improvement as, say, the fork (Lyrik vs. Pike) or even the seat (new vs. old WTB's).
    Maybe part of that is the fact that I try to use the brakes as little as possible.
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  39. #39
    how heavy are you ??
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    dude if my ass...

    [QUOTE=joelalamo45]I took my hydros off and replaced them with mech's for:

    A). the ease of adjustment
    B). ability to add a longer cable without the use of my LBS (Go MOJO)
    C). They work really well
    I have hit ALL of the gnarliest stuff that Keystone has to offer with just a front brake.

    can be stopped by one brake...any kind .... ill pay you a hundred.... i am about 265 with pack and me... if i was a feather weight i might be able to stop. But your statement is kinda ludicrous.
    Scott

  40. #40
    Slopestyle Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottay5150
    can be stopped by one brake...any kind .... ill pay you a hundred.... i am about 265 with pack and me... if i was a feather weight i might be able to stop. But your statement is kinda ludicrous.
    Scott
    I'm 215lbs and dropped Jaws at Keystone with only a front brake (rear brake faded to the point of not working at all). I rode double blacks all day long with only a front brake at Keystone. True story. If you doubt me, come up on Thursday to WP for pro slopestyle qualifiers. I'll be riding on a white Norco 4X with one brake.
    Last edited by joelalamo45; 07-27-2008 at 07:49 AM.

  41. #41
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    I run both Hydro and Mech on by bikes. Formula oro's are affordable and work awesome, super smooth and easy to set up! For the mechanical side I've run Advids but like the Interlok dual bangers better. They are a tad heavier but you get a dual action mechanical brake that out performs the Advids for about the same price.

  42. #42
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    Mr. "Avid" says.....

    First let me say to everyone how proud I am of all of you for playing so nice in the sandbox.
    Mech vs. Hydro must be one of the oldest and potentially vitriolic subjects of all time -- Thanks to the ol' "Memory Hole", of course....

    I am fortunate enough to have had a few very pleasant encounters with a one Wayne Lumpkin. Some of you may know that name -- He was Avid components -- designer, tester, secretary, etc., for many years -- until he sold it to SRAM, a few years ago.

    When the Juicy first came out, I saw him at Alderfer. As he was responsible for getting me on the BB7's -- I said that I better get some Juicy's, pronto, right?
    He replied, "Au contrair, mon frere..." He then gave a brief dissertation on this Mech vs Hydro subject.
    He was blunt about the fact that he rolled out the Juicy due to the PERCEPTION that hydro's were more powerful, had better modulation, etc., etc.
    Wayne said that it was purely a MARKETING move to capture market share.

    He wrapped up by relating a recent test, in Europe, where they put the BB7 up against 8 top DH hydro brakes where it did not fair too badly, considering -- that it had 160mm rotors against their 8" ones.
    But, the coup d'gras was that, just for grins, they put 8" rotors on the BB7. Everyone was shocked. It was WAYYYY more powerful than ANY of the hydros.

    Just to recap -- The then-President of Avid talked me OUT of plunking down a lot of scratch for more of his products. So don't give me any rational whatsoever other than he was being brutally frank with me.

    And where are my original BB7's now? On to my second Racer-X, which is now living with my friend in Carbondale. Over 10,000 miles on them. All I've ever done is change cables and put in new pads every couple of years.

    As to modualtion issues -- I would inquire as to how you have your levers set up. Are they set up for minimal movement before lockup? I would then ask, "Why?"

    Thought experiment -- Your brakes in your car are set the same way. How would that work? Every time you TOUCH the pedal, they lock up? Nice....

    Thought experiment # 2 -- When descending, you have the most control with ALL 4 of your fingers wrapped around your grips, jah? Now, do it with your index fingers extended.
    Not so good, jah?
    Now, descend with your index and middle fingers extended -- More bad, yes?

    Thought experiment # 3 -- Adjust your levers so that you can pull them back to within 1/3 of inch from the grip. Now, you can pull the lever back, with 2 fingers, say -- almost to the bar -- without ANY engagement. Almost as strong a position as 4 fingers on the grip.
    Then just squeeze a little bit to start getting engagement. Just like how your - -at least I assume -- brake pedal in your car works.

    Thank you, all, again -- for your patience and good humour.
    As Maximus addressed the crowd at one point in "Gladiator" --

    "Are you not entertained!?!?"

    Happy Trails!

  43. #43
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    I have been meaning to put a bigger rotor on my front bb7 but I've never really been at a loss for power. Probably when I order a second pair and put the current ones on my old XC bike.

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