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  1. #1
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    Fellow AC Riders

    I picked up one of those Giant AC's down at Supergo a while ago, and finally got it built up. (it was torture just looking at the frame sitting in my room begging to be ridden!)

    Anyways, all you other ACs out there: what's the deal with the seatpost? Comes with a 30.8 to 27.2 shim. I'm running a 30.9 right now, but it stops short where the seat tube narrows. Do I have to run a 27.2, or will a 30.8 fit all the way down?

    What are you guys running? Okay...enough about seatpost.

    [thanks]

  2. #2
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    Unfortunately you have to run the stock size seatpost with the shim - the seat tube tapers - and I have actually had a guy from Giant tell me that my warranty is void if I do not use the shim when I called to ask about it... oh well. Enjoy your new bike.

  3. #3
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    thanks

    Thanks for the info. I've heard bad things about shims, so I was hoping to avoid using one. Why are shims so bad anyways?

  4. #4
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    I Want My Bike!!!!!!!! Now!!!

  5. #5
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    I've been using the shim without problems. No movement, no creaking... nothing...

  6. #6
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    I think that people just dislike shims because they seem like a "band-aid" fix - to the best of my knowledge, there's nothing really bad about them - they're just annoying.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by s1ngletrack
    I think that people just dislike shims because they seem like a "band-aid" fix - to the best of my knowledge, there's nothing really bad about them - they're just annoying.
    They work very well in this application. Just dont lube between the shim/frame... post/shim lubing is ok, but shouldn't even be needed.

    BTW, anyone know what size/pull front der this thing takes? I'm thinking I need a granny ring up front. I guess I can redeem myself by only putting one gear back on the Chameleon.

  8. #8
    Chillaxin 'n Chilcotin!
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitchenware
    They work very well in this application. Just dont lube between the shim/frame... post/shim lubing is ok, but shouldn't even be needed.

    BTW, anyone know what size/pull front der this thing takes? I'm thinking I need a granny ring up front. I guess I can redeem myself by only putting one gear back on the Chameleon.
    Just get a new XT front derailluer--it works top and bottom pull and has shims to fit all three sizes. Of course, if you can figure out how to do it based on the shitmano directions, you're a smarter man than I am. I figured it out eventually (hint: ignore the colors in the directions).

    For Bike Addict: In terms of seatpost shims, I am using them on both the Fluid and the Bullit. As long as you grease between the shim and the seat tube and don't grease between the post and the shim, you shouldn't have any problems with them.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kristian
    For Bike Addict: In terms of seatpost shims, I am using them on both the Fluid and the Bullit. As long as you grease between the shim and the seat tube and don't grease between the post and the shim, you shouldn't have any problems with them.
    good thing I haven't put anything on my post. I think it gets moved around enough to keep it from seizing.

    Oh, and I'm going to go grab one of those XTs after lunch. Thanks for the tip.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitchenware
    good thing I haven't put anything on my post. I think it gets moved around enough to keep it from seizing.

    Oh, and I'm going to go grab one of those XTs after lunch. Thanks for the tip.
    One thing I didn't mention, it's the bottom swing XT that has the shims and is bottom or top pull. I'm not sure if the top swing one has them or not (although, I'm not sure why you would use a top swing unless you're frame requires it).

  11. #11
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    Would somebody PLEASE explain the differences of all these freaking front derailleurs please. Top/bottom Swing, Top/bottom pull (which I think I understand), and e-types...so confused...so confused...

    BTW, Kristian, making a fresh batch of jerky this weekend...ahh yeah!!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibmkidIII
    Would somebody PLEASE explain the differences of all these freaking front derailleurs please. Top/bottom Swing, Top/bottom pull (which I think I understand), and e-types...so confused...so confused...

    BTW, Kristian, making a fresh batch of jerky this weekend...ahh yeah!!!!
    Top swing is the old school looking derailluer with the clamp about 2" above the level of the big ring. They are always (to my knowledge) pulled from the top. Bottom swings have two different types: top pull and bottom pull. The clamp about the same height as the granny ring and the cage sits above the clamp. The pull is the direction from which they are pulled. Some bikes run the cables down the down tube and under the BB up to the derailluer (oddly enough, that's called bottom pull) while most bikes run the cable along the top tube to the seat tube and pull from the top.

    E-types are designed for bikes that are either lacking a seat tube or that have too much suspension crap down there to attach a standard derailluer. The E-type has a ring that goes around the BB to hold the derailluer in place (and sometimes they have a little clamp to stablize them on the seat tube too). I have never met anyone who used an E-type who didn't swear a blue streak at the thing...

    mmmmm....Kirkyjerky!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibmkidIII
    Would somebody PLEASE explain the differences of all these freaking front derailleurs please. Top/bottom Swing, Top/bottom pull (which I think I understand), and e-types...so confused...so confused...

    BTW, Kristian, making a fresh batch of jerky this weekend...ahh yeah!!!!
    e-types are a mounting type that are mainly used for unusual frames that can't use typical mounts, and I believe most of the frames that use e-type are Specialized.

    Top/bottom pull has to do with where the cable is pulled from.

    Top/bottom swing I really don't know either.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitchenware
    They work very well in this application. Just dont lube between the shim/frame... post/shim lubing is ok, but shouldn't even be needed.

    BTW, anyone know what size/pull front der this thing takes? I'm thinking I need a granny ring up front. I guess I can redeem myself by only putting one gear back on the Chameleon.
    I put an XT top pull-top swing 34.9 FD on my AC. With an e.thirteen DRS. See pic for what a top swing FD looks like. A bottom swing will not fit, as it would not fit on the frame with the seat tube shape below it. Yes, the new 760 XT "dual-pull" works, but the little arm you wont need for a bottom pull install comes very close to that screw coming out of the back of the bottom of the seat tube (is this to clamp the loose end of the FD cable in?). Mount it high enough so it doesn't hit it like in this pic and you will be fine. Or you could cut off the excess arm for BP with a dremel tool.

    BTW, on the post, I too tried a 30.9 post, but it won't make it down past that ridge inside the frame, so you do need to use the 30.8 to 27.2 shim with a 27.2 post to be able to drop it down, but watch for how far it can protrude out the bottom, I had to cut my 27.2 post to 250mm length to keep it from hitting the shock coil when dropped all the way.

    My Giant XTC hardtail came with a 27.2 (Titec, which I promptly broke and had replaced) post with a shim in it, and it caused nothing but problems and creaked terribly regardless of how much lube was where. So I replaced it with a 31.6 Thomson and it's been perfect for the last year and a half. If Giant says that voids their warranty that they can welch out of because they get better deals on bulk 27.2 posts that they can use in more bikes with cheap shims, then screw that bike company very much. I only bought this AC frame because it was $299, but I like riding it. And the warranty would have been void on my Giant XTC frame anyway, I kept trashing the internal headset and had some CNC adapters spin and pressed in and faced in my frame, becoming part of the frame, and installed a regular CK headset in it. The best thing that ever happened to that bike. If this AC frame/headset gives me any problems at all, I'm doing the same to this one.

    Cheers,

    Dave
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    [SIZE=2]Just Passing Through: eatin' dirt & crappin' dust[/SIZE]

  15. #15
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    I broke the stock 27.2 post and replaced it with a 30.8 thinking it would be less of a pain in the ass. I still have it on, but you really lose the ability to lower your seat as the post hits the bend in the tube much sooner than the 27.2 does (which is already too soon). I would not recommend it regardless of warranty issues with Giant.
    Give 'da people 'da air.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by kristian
    I have never met anyone who used an E-type who didn't swear a blue streak at the thing...

    mmmmm....Kirkyjerky!
    e.thirteen makes a special DRS bracket that is e-type mount if you have to use one, saw one on a VP-free. Looks beefier than the standard e-type bracket if you are using a dual-ring guide anyway.

    http://www.e13components.com/images/...E-type_600.jpg

    Cheers,

    Dave
    [SIZE=2]Just Passing Through: eatin' dirt & crappin' dust[/SIZE]

  17. #17
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    Thanks Kristian...I know have a much better understand of front D's now. I have to assume my heckler is a bottom swing/top pull. It's mounted just above my middle ring....I think I'll poke over to the SC forum and double check that...

    edit: nope, top swing/top pull....

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdirteater
    I put an XT top pull-top swing 34.9 FD on my AC. With an e.thirteen DRS. See pic for what a top swing FD looks like. A bottom swing will not fit, as it would not fit on the frame with the seat tube shape below it. Yes, the new 760 XT "dual-pull" works, but the little arm you wont need for a bottom pull install comes very close to that screw coming out of the back of the bottom of the seat tube (is this to clamp the loose end of the FD cable in?). Mount it high enough so it doesn't hit it like in this pic and you will be fine. Or you could cut off the excess arm for BP with a dremel tool.

    BTW, on the post, I too tried a 30.9 post, but it won't make it down past that ridge inside the frame, so you do need to use the 30.8 to 27.2 shim with a 27.2 post to be able to drop it down, but watch for how far it can protrude out the bottom, I had to cut my 27.2 post to 250mm length to keep it from hitting the shock coil when dropped all the way.

    My Giant XTC hardtail came with a 27.2 (Titec, which I promptly broke and had replaced) post with a shim in it, and it caused nothing but problems and creaked terribly regardless of how much lube was where. So I replaced it with a 31.6 Thomson and it's been perfect for the last year and a half. If Giant says that voids their warranty that they can welch out of because they get better deals on bulk 27.2 posts that they can use in more bikes with cheap shims, then screw that bike company very much. I only bought this AC frame because it was $299, but I like riding it. And the warranty would have been void on my Giant XTC frame anyway, I kept trashing the internal headset and had some CNC adapters spin and pressed in and faced in my frame, becoming part of the frame, and installed a regular CK headset in it. The best thing that ever happened to that bike. If this AC frame/headset gives me any problems at all, I'm doing the same to this one.

    Cheers,

    Dave

    Just wondering about the DRS you got on your AC. Im thinking of getting one for my stock 2004 AC2. Is there anything specific I should ask for when ordering one ?.

    Apart form that are you happy with the DRS ?

    Air-Time

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Air-Time
    Just wondering about the DRS you got on your AC. Im thinking of getting one for my stock 2004 AC2. Is there anything specific I should ask for when ordering one ?.
    No, just get one with the 2004 rubber roller if you want it quieter, or the older (still available) hard (plastic?) roller if you want longer wear out of the roller (they are only about $16 to replace). My DRS came with ISCG mounting holes on the backplate which you can't use on the AC anyway (mounts with the drive side of the BB or bearings). I only mention it because if you or someone else were to install a DRS on a frame that actually had ISCG mounts on it (like my Chase where they are so far misaligned/rotated that they were not usable), I am told from e.thirteen that the new 2005 model DRS may not have the ISGC holes in it any longer.

    Also note that if you are using Saint cranks, you will need an e.thirteen 2005 bash with the wider crank indentation, the old one won't clear a fat Saint crankarm. Just don't get old store stock if you need the new one. You can tell the new bash because it has the e.thirteen name and logo embossed into it in addition to the regular white lettering on it elsewhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by Air-Time
    Apart form that are you happy with the DRS ?
    Air-Time
    Very much so, everything e.thirteen I've ever used or installed rocks!

    Cheers,

    Dave
    [SIZE=2]Just Passing Through: eatin' dirt & crappin' dust[/SIZE]

  20. #20
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    I was about to bump this thread back up anyway today... I had a question for you other ACers.

    What's your weight and spring rate? Anyone find that the stock 500 wasn't enough?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitchenware
    I was about to bump this thread back up anyway today... I had a question for you other ACers.

    What's your weight and spring rate? Anyone find that the stock 500 wasn't enough?
    I think I'm actually running 450 (I weigh 185) - my frame is an 18". I considered swapping it out, until I buried the red volume adjustment on the Swinger. I don't think I've bottomed it since.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by s1ngletrack
    until I buried the red volume adjustment on the Swinger. I don't think I've bottomed it since.
    I'll try that...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitchenware
    I'll try that...
    Don't forget to let the air out before you crank it down - I almost did, it'd suck to blow a seal sitting in your garage.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by s1ngletrack
    Don't forget to let the air out before you crank it down - I almost did, it'd suck to blow a seal sitting in your garage.
    hehe, I have to let the air out first, my pump can be used to tighten it down when it's empty.

  25. #25
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    [QUOTE=mtbdirteater]No, just get one with the 2004 rubber roller if you want it quieter, or the older (still available) hard (plastic?) roller if you ...........

    Thanks for the info, But how did you mount it to your AC if the ISCG mounts dont fit the AC frame ? Is it something to do with the E-Type Boomerang "e.13" have on their website ?

    Air-Time

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