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  1. #1
    Heads up Flyboy!!
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    Experimenting with 9 speed gearing

    I've been running a 2x9 set up on my 29er for a few years now and had considered going 10 speed but just not completely sold + dollars involved prohibit me even more.

    Currently I'm running 22, 32 chainrings, 11x34 cassette

    So I've been looking at ways to optimize my current set up. I'm ok with my low end gearing but always want something a little more when going down trails like Lower Gashouse, Sandy Wash, Rooney Valley, Picture Rock, high speed dirt road descents yada, yada.

    I'm avoiding going back to a 3x set up as I still love the chunk and I always end up destroying the 44 tooth chainring in a few months of use.

    So I spent the end of the night checking gear ratios, finding chain ring combos availability, cassette options and so on.

    I think I've settled on 38, 24 chainrings and a 12x36 cassette or a 11x36.

    The low end is only 2.7% harder and a 11x36 gives me an almost 19 % increase in gear inches with gearing spaced a little wider and a 12x36 gives me an almost 9% increase in gear inches with tighter spaced gearing.

    Anyone else on the Front Range try this? I know I'm over thinking it and should just do it and probably will but I wanted some thoughts.

  2. #2
    The 5th knuckle
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    What ever is slower so someone else can actually see where you turn.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hernando Gutierrez
    The only thing you have to figure out is don't fall down. To keep riding the bike.

  3. #3
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    That's a pretty wide range still with the 24/38 and 11-36. I don't think I'd worry about the slightly tighter spaced 12-36. you give up that extra gear that you mentioned you like.
    I'm really happy with my 39/26 on my new Cannondale 2012 Flash Carbon HT. That's a 10 setup, but with the smaller chainrings you should be good. I spend most of my time riding Indian Creek which is quite a bit steeper.
    Sounds like you're making a good choice to me.

  4. #4
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    Just rock a SS for a while. Makes the choice for you.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Just rock a SS for a while. Makes the choice for you.
    Started riding it again too my amigo Just want to go faster on my FS as I'm spinning out what I currently got and if you got gears, no need to wind em out when you wanna go faster!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bewelnak View Post
    That's a pretty wide range still with the 24/38 and 11-36. I don't think I'd worry about the slightly tighter spaced 12-36. you give up that extra gear that you mentioned you like.
    I'm really happy with my 39/26 on my new Cannondale 2012 Flash Carbon HT. That's a 10 setup, but with the smaller chainrings you should be good. I spend most of my time riding Indian Creek which is quite a bit steeper.
    Sounds like you're making a good choice to me.
    I've ridden a buddies 10 speed setup at Buff creek. Gear range was awesome out there. How does the 26x36 feel on those stiff climbs in Indian Creek?

  7. #7
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    You have just been mentally Rick Roll'd. Yup you're thinking about it right now aren't you? Don't fight it.

  8. #8
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    Proprietary hub. Proprietary chain. Proprietary cassette. Proprietary crank. Proprietary chain ring. Proprietary derailer. Proprietary shifter. 1500 USD. The cool shizznit it is.
    It's pronounced "so pro and cool."
    It was an impulse decision.

  9. #9
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    Welcome to 2005

    When riding gears I use 1x10. If I can't climb it with the 32x36, I'd rather HAB it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaycastlerock View Post
    What ever is slower so someone else can actually see where you turn.
    Agreed--do you really need to ride faster????

    And I agree with sauprankul too--that 11 speed scheisse is pretty cool looking until you see the price tag. I'll wait for the X7 version of that in a few years...or even better, I'll wait for Shimano to do it better than SRAM !

  11. #11
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    Never saw problem with a three ring circus

    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    ...I'm avoiding going back to a 3x set up as I still love the chunk and I always end up destroying the 44 tooth chainring in a few months of use...
    Yeah, I hear lots of that. So your plan is to go with an official two ring, and give up your bash guard then? Sure you won't destroy your 38 or whatever?

    What does destroy mean? My 44s always have a couple missing teeth right at the crux point. You bang the mofo, do the best you can to straighten the bent teeth with channel locks, or just file them down to nubs. Still works fine. There are so many teeth on a 44 they continue to pedal fine even with gaps of two or three missing.

    I've never bent a ring to the point where it was deflecting, but if I did I'd go back to Mr Channel Lock. Straight as it can be made. Even if it happened in the field, remove it with your multi -tool and bang it back flat.

    I love the chunk too, and there's plenty of it up here. But even when I was riding a StumpJumper 29 with the lowest bb height in the world of cycling I ran a 44 and it worked fine. Not pretty, but totally serviceable.

    For me, it's either SS or 3x9. The fact that new bikes all seem to come with a 2x10 is sad. In my world, I'm not willing to go 2.7% harder. Especially if your ride is 29" like mine, I don't want to give up any of my low end. And I spend enough time on pavement or fast dirt, I want a big ring.

    But that's me.
    Tom Purvis - Salida, CO - http://teamvelveeta.tom-purvis.com

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    Welcome to 2005

    If I can't climb it with the 32x36, I'd rather HAB it.
    Luis speaks the truth...
    I run 1x10 too. There have only been a few times that I wished I had lower gearing but realized that I would be faster by just walking up.

  13. #13
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    I ran 9-speed and went to 10-speed when I got a new bike. I believe that both are 11-36 cassettes, so all I got was the "pleasure" of more shifting. I find that most of the time when I shift, I'm grabbing 2 or 3 gears, so closer ratios does nothing for me.

  14. #14
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    I thought the 36t cass was only available in 10 speed? The only thing I would say about a 24/38 combo up front is the chainring diff is maxed out for the front der so the shifting probably wont be as smooth as your 22/32 combo. Might have more issues with dropping chain shifting into granny??

    Kristian- impossible for Shimano to do it better, no Gripshift!! If they do come out with a cheaper version of the 1x11 I would def try it.

  15. #15
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    Yes. One.

    Quote Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    I thought the 36t cass was only available in 10 speed? The only thing I would say about a 24/38 combo up front is the chainring diff is maxed out for the front der so the shifting probably wont be as smooth as your 22/32 combo. Might have more issues with dropping chain shifting into granny??

    Kristian- impossible for Shimano to do it better, no Gripshift!! If they do come out with a cheaper version of the 1x11 I would def try it.
    There is one 9-speed cassette that has a 36: Shimano HG61 9-Speed 12-36

    I have one. It's the SLX level so it's pretty heavy, and most importantly it is one of the ones constructed from individual cogs bolted together, not on a carrier like the high end cassettes. Which means that it will dig into an aluminum cassette like the one on my DT hub and have to be hammered off. So you need to run it on an XT or lower hub.

    Mine is sitting on the shelf right now. I'm using my Shimano-hub wheel on my singlespeed and my DT hub wheel has a SRAM 12-34 9speed (I think a 980?).

    But yeah, it's out there.
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  16. #16
    MK_
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    They do make 36T chainrings for 9sp, you know.

    _MK
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    -- Einstein, Albert

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    Welcome to 2005


    22/36/bash here on my 2 x 9


    I find, in general with gearing, I use lower gears as a crutch and I'm generally OK without them.
    the drugs made me realize it's not about the drugs

  18. #18
    rr
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    There is one 9-speed cassette that has a 36: Shimano HG61 9-Speed 12-36

    I have one. It's the SLX level so it's pretty heavy, and most importantly it is one of the ones constructed from individual cogs bolted together, not on a carrier like the high end cassettes. Which means that it will dig into an aluminum cassette like the one on my DT hub and have to be hammered off. So you need to run it on an XT or lower hub.

    But yeah, it's out there.
    Hmmm, doesn't sound worth it, I'm fine with the low gear now on my 34t cass w/22 granny, but wouldn't mind some more high end gearing like mtngoat is saying. I've got a 22/34 up front and thought about bumping up to 36t but was concerned about the gap to the 22t. Doubt I would like a larger granny either with the 34t cass, think I will stay put with what I have.

  19. #19
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by Short Bus View Post
    Luis speaks the truth...
    I run 1x10 too. There have only been a few times that I wished I had lower gearing but realized that I would be faster by just walking up.
    Every time I ride with someone running 1x10, save for one buddy who is running his with a 26 or 28 front ring, there is a lot of waiting for them to walk up something that is pretty easy to ride up with a granny. We just stand there and shake our heads at the poor victims of marketing.

    _MK
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  20. #20
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    Best for just having fun: 32 x 11-36
    Best for group trail riding and racing: 24/32/42 x 11-36
    Best for being a hype beast: 32 x 10-42
    Best for techy trails: 26/39/bash x 11-36
    Best for being a BAWS: 32 x 18.
    YMMV, just IMHO.
    It's pronounced "so pro and cool."
    It was an impulse decision.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Hmmm, doesn't sound worth it, I'm fine with the low gear now on my 34t cass w/22 granny, but wouldn't mind some more high end gearing like mtngoat is saying. I've got a 22/34 up front and thought about bumping up to 36t but was concerned about the gap to the 22t. Doubt I would like a larger granny either with the 34t cass, think I will stay put with what I have.
    Are you thinking the upshift from 22->36 would be sluggish? I wouldn't worry about that as long as the 36 is ramped and pinned adequately. The 32->44 upshift works just fine...

    As for the 36T low gear on that cassette, I really liked having a 22:36 on my 29er when I first got it, but after a while I think it made me a little lazy. The problem was that every gear was a half-step lower. On my habitual rides I found that I would be in the same gear combo I had used in the past, but that it was just a touch lower and slower. Upshifting put me into a world of pain, so I just kind of lolly-gagged along in my slightly easier gears.

    Then I'd go home and eat hamburgers and drink IPAs, and soon I needed bigger pants.
    Tom Purvis - Salida, CO - http://teamvelveeta.tom-purvis.com

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK_ View Post
    Every time I ride with someone running 1x10, save for one buddy who is running his with a 26 or 28 front ring, there is a lot of waiting for them to walk up something that is pretty easy to ride up with a granny. We just stand there and shake our heads at the poor victims of marketing.

    _MK
    If it bothers you then you might consider riding with stronger riders.
    Besides when you ride with this guy it doesn't matter what gears you run because you end up hiking anyways... lol
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Experimenting with 9 speed gearing-mge.jpg  

    Last edited by Short Bus; 11-30-2012 at 11:32 AM. Reason: added pic

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    Are you thinking the upshift from 22->36 would be sluggish?
    Yeah, I had a 22/36 before and it works but it's not as smooth as my 22/34 or a 22/32, and I would drop the chain more going down to granny. Not a big deal but prefer the better shifting over the higher gear I guess. The 10sp 24/36 w/36t cass sounds like the answer but upgrading would be pricey as I'm a gripshift whore, have you seen the prices on that stuff??

    That 1x11 with the 42t cog looks like the sh!t tho, would go 1x now but don't have the legs for it on 30+lb full squish bike.

  24. #24
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    costy for sure

    Quote Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Yeah, I had a 22/36 before and it works but it's not as smooth as my 22/34 or a 22/32, and I would drop the chain more going down to granny. Not a big deal but prefer the better shifting over the higher gear I guess. The 10sp 24/36 w/36t cass sounds like the answer but upgrading would be pricey as I'm a gripshift whore, have you seen the prices on that stuff?? ...
    The new Drivetrain parts are stupid expensive. Nauseatingly expensive.

    For a former bike shop guy, paying retail is bad enough. But when retail is like that it makes my wallet shrivel up and hide deep down in my pocket.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    I've been running a 2x9 set up on my 29er for a few years now and had considered going 10 speed but just not completely sold + dollars involved prohibit me even more.

    Currently I'm running 22, 32 chainrings, 11x34 cassette

    ...

    I think I've settled on 38, 24 chainrings and a 12x36 cassette or a 11x36.
    As long as you're getting a 10-speed cassette, go with the 11/36. You'll gain more in the high gear. (Not all that fun pedaling like crazy on the flats like you've been doing with your 32 chainring!)

  26. #26
    MK_
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    Quote Originally Posted by Short Bus View Post
    If it bothers you then you might consider riding with stronger riders.
    Certainly doesn't bother me; it's quite funny, actually. Nevertheless I've been averaging a ride every couple of weeks these days so taking a rest to enjoy the view is alright.

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  27. #27
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    If you stay with 2x9 and want a lighter alternative to the SLX 12-36 Cassette then check out Nino's 9spd cassettes Yes, the cassette is spendy but worx well. Sometimes these appear on fle-bay. I have one and have used it with a 26/38 and a 26/39 setup on a hardtail and a FS 29er with minimal issues. the issue I had was with the 11t cog - somehow I wore that darn thing out and replaced it with a steel shimano 11t.

  28. #28
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    I'm happy with the 24/36 front and 11-34 rear on my HT. I rarely spin-out and climbs aren't that difficult. If I have to walk it's usually from lack of skill and/or endurance not gearing.

  29. #29
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    now wonder we havent seen the goat on tits rides- weve been holding you up
    I'm a cowboy on a steel horse i ride!

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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by PBR me! View Post
    now wonder we havent seen the goat on tits rides- weve been holding you up
    Indeed, something is brewing...


  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    Welcome to 2005 When riding gears I use 1x10. If I can't climb it with the 32x36, I'd rather HAB it.
    Brah, your also 60 lbs lighter then me. Ol 200 + lb Goat needs every Gear I've got plus my Knees seem to be suffering more lately. Maybe all those crashes I've had in the last year.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom P
    Yeah, I hear lots of that. So your plan is to go with an official two ring, and give up your bash guard then? Sure you won't destroy your 38 or whatever?
    Actually I have bent a 44 tooth ring to make it completely unservicable. I know, unfathonable because you haven't done it. Also broken 10 bikes in 10 years. My latest, a Niner has been the frame I've had the longest at 1 year and 2 months. But seriously, I will run a bash guard with the 38 tooth as well. They make em you know. =) Also, I like experimenting with gearing. I've ran an 8 speed Alfine, 1x3, and I ran 8 speed up until 2005 or 2006.

    And all the ideas on how it won't work because of a large gap in chainring sizes. Think about 10 speed. 39x26 isn't that much different then 38x24...Most Road bikes have a gap of 14 teeth and I run a compact crank of 50x34 on mine with a gap of 16 teeth.

  32. #32
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    Goat,
    I had a 9 spd 22/34, 12-36 combo on my plastic Blur LT. Loved that combo so much I went 10spd w/ the new clutched XT setup on my plastic TB when I built it...then slowly updated the Blur to the 10spd also. The 34 ring to 12 cog is pretty spinny once you get rolling. But, I run boat anchor weight class rubber (the Conti TK 2.4 29er is 1110g each!), so I never get rolling very fast on the road
    The other reason why I kept to the 34 up front is I also like the chunder, else I woulda gone 36. But the TB's BB is kinda low and I hate pedal strikes. I'm never giving up the 22 so I think 36 would be tops for me w/ that big pizza platter of a 36 in the back. The 9 spd 61 series cassette is one heavy stack, but becomes invisible when you drop into the 22f, 36r climbing combo If you run this, just make sure your cassette body is steel. A King aluminum driveshell would turn into a friggin' train wreck, m'thinks.

    Edit: just caught your comment on the big range. I'm w/ you on that, but you'll have to run a long cage rear mech to deal w/ the chain. AND, the new clutch style (Shadow Plus) rear mech really does an amazing job of keeping the chain well behaved.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    ...Actually I have bent a 44 tooth ring to make it completely unservicable. I know, unfathonable because you haven't done it.
    Sorry dude, obviously I offended you. I was seriously curious. No I haven't done it, but that doesn't mean it's unfathomable.

    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    ...Also broken 10 bikes in 10 years. My latest, a Niner has been the frame I've had the longest at 1 year and 2 months...
    OK.

    Damn.

    That's...

    OK. Run a bashguard. Good luck with your next bike!
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  34. #34
    Bad Andy!
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    Ay yi yi
    You guys are a buncha bike geeks.

  35. #35
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    I pushed a *lot* of Deer Creek today on an old-skool 3x9 today. I want a 20 tooth granny and a 42-tooth rear cog.

    GIVE IT TO ME!!

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    Sorry dude, obviously I offended you. I was seriously curious. No I haven't done it, but that doesn't mean it's unfathomable.



    OK.

    Damn.

    That's...

    OK. Run a bashguard. Good luck with your next bike!
    Na man,didn't offend me. Its the interwebs as I took it I offended you by going off the traditional 22/32/44 combo.

    I like the 2 ring set up but again feel I'm way too spun out on the Faster XC downhills. When I ran a buddies 10 speed set up I was in the 26 front as much as the 39 but also with the set up I didn't feel it was a bad thing as it felt as good in the 11 tooth as the 36 tooth sprockets. Thing with 10 speed that I noticed is the system has to be dialed. More so then 9 speed and honestly, it's probably more a cash thing why I'm not going 10.

    2 rings + chain + cassette is a lot more cost friendly(and since mine are worn and need to be replaced anyway) then switching to 10 speed shifters, 10 speed crankset, 10 speed derailleurs, so on, so on....

    I really loved the Alfine Internal hub set up even with its weight but felt range was limited especially in the high country. Ultimately, I 'll get a Rohloff Internal Hub(pricey) and if I still lived back east where mud and muck destroyed traditional drivetrains with a fury, I'd have one now.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkaredShtles View Post
    I pushed a *lot* of Deer Creek today on an old-skool 3x9 today. I want a 20 tooth granny and a 42-tooth rear cog.

    GIVE IT TO ME!!
    That's cause your fresh off healing a back. Give yourself a few months and you'll be animalistic again!

  38. #38
    bacon! bacon! bacon!
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    That's cause your fresh off healing a back. Give yourself a few months and you'll be animalistic again!
    Uhhh... I've never been animaltastic.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    2 rings + chain + cassette is a lot more cost friendly(and since mine are worn and need to be replaced anyway) then switching to 10 speed shifters, 10 speed crankset, 10 speed derailleurs, so on, so on....
    You shouldn't need a new crankset, unless you want one. I'm using 9spd cranks and rings w/ my 10 spd chain and have no issues.
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    You shouldn't need a new crankset, unless you want one. I'm using 9spd cranks and rings w/ my 10 spd chain and have no issues.
    Hmmmmm...very interesting. Some of the after market rings I had been looking at stated they were 9-10 speed capatible but I thought you needed the crank as well.

    Does the rear dérailleur have to be 10 speed specific or are you using a 9 speed there as well?

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    Hmmmmm...very interesting. Some of the after market rings I had been looking at stated they were 9-10 speed capatible but I thought you needed the crank as well.

    Does the rear dérailleur have to be 10 speed specific or are you using a 9 speed there as well?


    The rear derailleur, chain, and rear shifter are depenent on the Cassette.
    • If you run a 10spd cassette then you need 10spd rear derailleur, 10spd rear shifter and 10spd chain.
    • If you run a 9spd cassette then you need 9spd rear derailleur, 9spd rear shifter and 9spd chain.

    Now I noticed in your earlier posts that you are leaning toward 38/24 in a 9spd I assume. the 38t chainring on the middle spot of a 3x9 crankset will most likely cause clearence issue with your chain stay. You would need to bump the drive side over by 2.5mm to clear the chainstay and therefore would most likely cause cross chaining when using 38T and 36T/34T on the rear cassette. to avoid this issue you would be better off going with a 10spd double crankset or forgoing the 38T for a 36T chainring.

    Here's a good thread on the 9spd/10spd compatibility

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post
    Hmmmmm...very interesting. Some of the after market rings I had been looking at stated they were 9-10 speed capatible but I thought you needed the crank as well.

    Does the rear dérailleur have to be 10 speed specific or are you using a 9 speed there as well?
    Goat,
    There is no crossing of Shimano 9 w/ 10 (unless you're talking about mtn 9 to road 10, and vise versa). the 10's Dyna-Sys limits this and the road 10 doesn't use this new shifting ratio. And, cross brand doesn't work either...no SRAM will work w/ an Shimano. There's been some talk about the (9) X0 able to be used on (10) Shimano road...no such luck. I mounted a spare (9) X0 rear mech on my roadie and it wasn't even close.
    There's also a limiting factor w/ chain width...it's small, but significant which prevents you from reusing your 9 w/ a 10 cassette. But this doesn't hold for rings. Also note, when you install the Shimano chain pin, go from the wheel side out and break off the pilot section on the outside of the bike. This way, that little extra bit that sticks out off the chain link face won't snag on the next larger cog, and the rings have larger gaps. And, these chain pins are 9 and 10 spd specific also...gets you coming and going...HAH! Look on Chainlove for the Cutter 10 spd chain...they're KMC. But you'll need to buy pins. The KMC master link is a joke!
    The Shimano Dyna-Sys shifter have to be paired w/ Dyna-Sys rear mech. Front mechs don't matter, but there might be specific indexed sweet spots where adjustments isn't necessary, or very little. Sram has a similar arrangement. I mixed a X0 front mech w/ Dyna-Sys front shiftie set to 2x. It works but needed some tweaking to get to the sweet spot.

    So yeah, your 38/24 w/ a 9 spd 12-36 would be a pretty solid combo, but you need a long cage for all the extra chain, and may need a new chain if you don't have spare links on hand and/or your chain is old and your spare links are new. But fyi, I think most bashy has a break between 36 and 38T...one diameter to cover 32-36, and another for 38-40 or 42. If you're looking for clearance to chunder, keeping it at 36T max ring and dropping the 24 to 22 might be a mo' betta combo. AND, if you set your chain length to work w/ 36/36, big/big, the only gears you'll waste is the 22/12, low/low as the chain might be too slack. Here, the 10spd rear mech w/ the clutch thing does very well. When I had my (9) X0 rear mech w/ the 12-36, I used a Blackspire stinger to keep the chain in check. But this wasn't necessary w/ the new (10) XT clutched rear mech.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics View Post

    And all the ideas on how it won't work because of a large gap in chainring sizes. Think about 10 speed. 39x26 isn't that much different then 38x24...Most Road bikes have a gap of 14 teeth and I run a compact crank of 50x34 on mine with a gap of 16 teeth.
    I didn't say it wont work, just not as smooth shifting in my experience so I prefer a smaller gap. If you run a basher then your gonna have to run the der even higher to clear it as well.

    Yeah I have a compact crank on my cross bike too and it shifts fine, but the der is designed for it as is the 10speed stuff I believe.

  44. #44
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    The KMC master link is a joke!
    What's your experience that makes you say that?

    I've never had issues with the KMC master link. I run KMC chains on all my bikes. While, I've had Shimano pins break on three bikes.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Yeah, I had a 22/36 before and it works but it's not as smooth as my 22/34 or a 22/32, and I would drop the chain more going down to granny. Not a big deal but prefer the better shifting over the higher gear I guess.
    This.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomP
    As for the 36T low gear on that cassette, I really liked having a 22:36 on my 29er when I first got it, but after a while I think it made me a little lazy. The problem was that every gear was a half-step lower. On my habitual rides I found that I would be in the same gear combo I had used in the past, but that it was just a touch lower and slower. Upshifting put me into a world of pain, so I just kind of lolly-gagged along in my slightly easier gears.

    Then I'd go home and eat hamburgers and drink IPAs, and soon I needed bigger pants.
    And This.

    I run 22/36/bash with 11-36T on the Roscoe. I drop chains more than I'd like (even with a chain tensioner) and the jump between the 22 and 36 is too big. I end up spending all day in the 22.

    I need to either swap rings to 24/36 (which I have) or 22/32 (which I also have). I'm just too lazy to pull the crank off and actually do it. lol.

    Running 22/33/bash with 11-36T on my 29er and it works pretty well. I've thought about going 24/36 on the 29er but decided that I like the 22T granny for technical climbing with the big wheels.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    I drop chains more than I'd like.
    The Bionicon C-guide may help? I've had zero dropped chains running it with either 24/36 or 22/36.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogbie View Post
    The Bionicon C-guide may help? I've had zero dropped chains running it with either 24/36 or 22/36.
    Funny you should mention that... I run 'em on both bikes.

    I've had zero dropped chains on the Niner, but for some reason the Roscoe likes to drop 'em. It usually happens when there's a quick drop transition (creek bottom) associated with the downshift. So I'm thinking the suspension compressing while down shifting is inducing it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Experimenting with 9 speed gearing-photo_1.jpg  

    Experimenting with 9 speed gearing-photo_2.jpg  


  48. #48
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    meh

    Quote Originally Posted by rogbie View Post
    The Bionicon C-guide may help? I've had zero dropped chains running it with either 24/36 or 22/36.
    not a big fan of the plastic barrel that connects to the zipties
    mine has ripped off of the frame once already (and destroyed the barrel), it was not from an impact, and it only comes with 1 replacement

    I've had it for 10 days
    the drugs made me realize it's not about the drugs

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by calzonical View Post
    The rear derailleur, chain, and rear shifter are depenent on the Cassette.
    • If you run a 10spd cassette then you need 10spd rear derailleur, 10spd rear shifter and 10spd chain.
    • If you run a 9spd cassette then you need 9spd rear derailleur, 9spd rear shifter and 9spd chain.

    Now I noticed in your earlier posts that you are leaning toward 38/24 in a 9spd I assume. the 38t chainring on the middle spot of a 3x9 crankset will most likely cause clearence issue with your chain stay. You would need to bump the drive side over by 2.5mm to clear the chainstay and therefore would most likely cause cross chaining when using 38T and 36T/34T on the rear cassette. to avoid this issue you would be better off going with a 10spd double crankset or forgoing the 38T for a 36T chainring.

    Here's a good thread on the 9spd/10spd compatibility
    Thanks for all the info. I'm thinking the 38 may work in the middle position by some math

    Half inch pitch x number of teeth divided by pi
    .5 x 38 / 3.14 = 6.05 inches or so.

    Divide that by 2 (3.02) for the clearance needed between the center of the BB and the chainstay on the same plane.(how's that for bike geeky for you Giantkiller?) It looks like my chainstays might just clear that chainring as I have 3.18 from the center of the BB to the chainstay on the same plane.

    Also, just thinking of going 10 speed now with Sram's X9 Type 2 derailleur and rear shifter along with a 10 speed 11x36 cassette and still going with the 24x38 chainrings.
    Last edited by mountaingoatepics; 12-03-2012 at 10:09 PM.

  50. #50
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    "how's that for bike geeky for you Giantkiller"
    Probably pretty good, since I was too bored to even read it.

    I would say you guys just need to get out and ride, But I am pretty sure you all ride more than me.
    So instead I will say I have 2x10 and like it.
    Don't even know the ranges without looking
    How is that for un-bike-geeky?

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