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  1. #1
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    Anybody riding 1x10 with an XX1 crank? Trying to figure out gearing.

    I am trying to figure out if I can handle going 1x10 on the new bike with an xx1 crank. Its a Salsa spearfish 29r running a SRAM 11x36 cassette and Race Face Turbine 2x10 crank 26x38. I don't use the small ring all that much. But I do have to use it on the really long climbs. I can't go single speed it hurts my knees too much. I will be racing this bike up at winter park and will be doing several of the Rocky Mountain Endurance Series races.

  2. #2
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    throw this in the rear and get whatever chain ring you can handle with it. use Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator to see what matches gearing you can handle.
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  3. #3
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    I'm happy with a 28 tooth MRP Bling Ring with a 36-11 on my XO cranks. It's low enough they I can pedal everything on the front range, I do spin out on fire roads and bike paths but if I need to ride bike paths I'll probably fix this by choosing my road bike.

  4. #4
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    I went toMike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator to make calculations. I am just looking at the high and the low at the moment. I am figuring I will have to get a few different chain rings for different races or places I wan to ride to maximize my gearing.

    with the 11/36 and the 26/38
    High is 98.7" the low is 20.6"

    stock XX1 32t 11/36
    High83.1" Low25.4"

    xx1 34T
    High88.3" Low27"

    XX1 30T
    High78" Low23.8"

    xx1 28T
    High72.8" Low22.2"

    I think the 30 is the ring I would use the most. And the 34 would be good for short track and races with less climbing and more flat sections. It would be interesting to see if I would want the 28 or the 30 up at winter park.
    Last edited by pulser; 02-22-2013 at 09:04 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    throw this in the rear and get whatever chain ring you can handle with it. use Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator to see what matches gearing you can handle.
    Any Idea what that does to the freehub body? Now I will have to re-figure all my calculations. It looks like it would lower the gearing quite a bit. I could just get the 34 and the 30 and forget the 28. The only thing I don't like is I would have to pull a gear from the middle somewhere. If I take out the 11 then the high gear might be too low. I did have 2 races last year that came down to a sprint.
    Last edited by pulser; 02-22-2013 at 08:42 PM.

  6. #6
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    xx1 casette is 10-42. i just mentioned 41 sprocket alternative because it is cheap. xx1 drivetrain is around $1,500.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    xx1 casette is 10-42. i just mentioned 41 sprocket alternative because it is cheap. xx1 drivetrain is around $1,500.
    I know but the XX1 cassette is all one peace to spread the load out over the whole cassette body. They say that adding the 42 on by its self would damage the hub becasue of the torque load. I really just want to go XX1 becasue I think the gear spread with the 10-42 would be perfect. I just can't spend the money till they make a cheaper version.

  8. #8
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    i know there is another alternative which is 4 sprockets as one piece, largest one being 40 teeth. let me see if i can find it again.

    here you go, not one piece as i thought it was though.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    i know there is another alternative which is 4 sprockets as one piece, largest one being 40 teeth. let me see if i can find it again.

    here you go, not one piece as i thought it was though.
    I have seen that but it doesn't look like its ramped. I don't think that would shift all that nice. Looking at the gear charts I think I could push the 30 and the 32 on most of the stuff on the front range with the 11x36. I would just have to save the 28 for some of the high country climbing.

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