1x9 / 1x10 on longer days?
Sure, I did a search, but you can't search 1x9 or 1x10 in the forums and restrict it to Colorado. Most of what I've seen is the Front Rangers are ok with it, but I don't see many epic rides - mostly just front range foothill stuff. Sure you can slam up a quick hill, but what about long miles and sustained steep climbing when you HAVE to sit and spin or you'll be loopy on the downhill (which is why you climbed anyway.. right?).
I split my time between Summit County and the Front Range, so 30mi all-day rides in the mountains are pretty common for me - 12-15mi in the foothills? Not so much.
How does 1x9 or 1x10 work on longer more epic rides, like Kenosha to Georgia, riding up Marshal Rd to Monarch, Copper to Camp Hale, getting up to the top of Burro Pass for TWE, the stuff north of Vail, CT and other trails in the San Juans, stuff down by CB like 409, Strand Hill, etc. The 20-40mi stuff, with 3000'+ of climbing. Hell, even Belcher Hill and Mt. Falcon down in the front range.
I'd try it out in my middle ring, but I've been running 2x9 for a while now, and my middle ring is a 36 - way too big.
Oh, and this is for a 6" 32lb bike, not a wimpy hardtail. I'm thinking about the change NOT from perspective of losing weight. More about chain issues and simplicity in shifting (can't tell you how many times shifting the front ring has thrown my game off because it dropped/gained too much gear ratio).
Depending on how you set it up you're going to loose range on one end or the other. You loose some of the range of a triple with a double and I think it's basic math that you'll loose even more with a single. None of that is a big deal to a lot of (mostly racer) people who use 1X10 and the gain in lighter weight, better chain line and simplicity is worth it.
My personal opinion is derailleurs work fine and the weight penalty is fairly small. I may rarely use the bottom end granny or the top end biggest gear on my triple, but for general recreational riding I'm glad I have them when I want/need them. I may end up going with a double with my next bike simply because that's what most of the bikes I see myself wanting to buy come spec'd with.
Being a singlespeeder at heart, a 1x system just appeals to me.
I've been using XX1 (1x11) for the past six months on my "wimpy HT", and it works just fine in and around Colorado Springs. My rides have ranged from a 10 mile spin through Palmer Park, to a 50 mile race in Leadville, to a 50-60 mile ride here and there. I switch between a 30T and 32T chainring, depending on where I am riding, and the cassette is a 10-42T. I was concerned how it would do when I built this bike up, and whether I would regret not going 2x10, but it's great...and so nice to just have to think about one shifter. I like it so much, that I plan to change out the 2x10 on my FS to 1x11 as well, likely XO1 when it's readily available.
You'll will need to choose your gearing to make it work for you. Something like Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator might help you pick the combo that you need.
Oh yea...I also run 1x10 on my fat bike, 32Tx11-36T, and it works just fine. I don't do a ton of climbing on that beast, but I have done 20-30 mile rides in the snow, etc.
Unfortunately neither of those answers help.
1) Doesn't sound like you've tried it? I know how to go 1x9 and 1x10, and how it works, and what its pros and cons are. I want to hear about people's experiences on longer days...
2) XX1 is NOT going to happen anytime soon. I'm not throwing $1000 into a new drivechain, even if it was as low as $400.
I used to run a 1x9, 32t x 11-34t. I still had chain drop issues and pushed a lot on the longer high-country climbs. I went to 2x9, 24x36t upfront. I solved the chain drop issues by putting on the Bionicon c.guide, and the 2x set-up makes those long climbs tolerable. My first ride on the 2x was Kenosha>Georgia Pass>Jefferson Creek>Kenosha that was much better than running the 1x on the same ride.
I run a 1X10 with a 36-11 rear and 28t front. This goes low enough to grunt up anything. I spin out around 20mph which suites me fine because above that speed I usually stop pedaling and start pumping anyways. On longer days I feel like I spend less time whirling away in some stupid small gear wasting time and energy. I like the weight savings and it's nice to have one less button on my bar since I run my dropper post button where the front shift pod once lived.
I've been riding 1x9 for a couple of years on my wimpy hardtails. 1x9 hardtail is my only bike. My typical rides are 20-30 miles. I ride a lot of high country rides on it. Keystone ct, Kenosha, breck, Durango, crested butte,Monarch steamboat, the springs. I found it to be simple and reliable. I think when I've been gassed and pushed it's been altitude more then legs or a part of a super techy uphill. I really like it.
I sit and spin if I can and if I can't I stand up and earn it. If I can't do that I push. I don't push too much and it seems I push when people w 2x10 are pushing also. That said if I had a full squish 2x10 I probably wouldn't switch to 1x just cause I'm cheap and it seems to make sense on a 30+ lb bike.
This is so freakishly simple... take a look at the gear ratios you would typically use on one of these so-called epic rides and calculate the gear inches at the low end and top end. Then, see if you can replicate those gear inches with the 1x systems you're considering. If you can get the gear ranges to work out so they cover the extremes (but more importantly, the low end), then you're good to go. Otherwise, stick with 2x.
i converted to 1x10 with one of the ebay 41 tooth cogs. running 32 front and converted 11-36 rear cassette with added 41 and removed 17. before i was on 22-32 front 11-32 rear. i believe i only lost one top gear. it works fine on 20-30 mile rides i do around here. get a narrow/wide chain ring and clutch der. so you dont have to bother with chain tensioners and guides.
also on 30lbs 6" bike, and ride pretty much what you named.
I'll chime in. I have run a 1x9 with 32 up front and 11-34 in the back for the past 5 seasons. I also run the dropper where the front derailer used to be. I find the setup works pretty well. I don't make a lot of distinction between shorter front range rides and longer epic/high country rides. If you can climb Mt. Falcon without stopping, you're probably fine on Kenosha etc.
I find that it works fine on the climbs and I remain in the saddle most of the time. I might stand when it gets fairly steep. For me one example that comes to mind is the upper part of belcher where the water bars are. But I've never been a big fan of spinning really low gears and staying seated on steep/techy climbs (I like being able to throw my weight around to clear obstacles). I'll second what monolith said about pushing when others riding 2x are also needing to push.
FYI, I still run a bash guard and chain retention device so I don't think the weight savings are much in my case.
I used to run 1x9 on my hard tail. The length of the ride was never an issue for me. Steepness of climbs was a problem.
I could ride all day on more mellow rides (like Peaks Trail; Colorado Trail in Summit Co.) with the 1x9.
I like to do a ride over A-Basin and then up Deer Creek and back (30-ish miles). No freaking way I'd do that on my 1x9.
Currently I have 2 setups. My 1x11 (XX1) on my hard tail that I use for less climbing/smoother rides or a 3x10 (XT) Full Suspension for steeper/bumpier rides.
I do plan on upgrading to a 650b full suspension bike in the next year or 2 and will probably build it up with XX1. That has enough range that I can make it up most of the stuff I ride (especially since you can change out the front chainring depending on the terrain you'll be riding). Since you don't want to drop that sort of money, I'd stick with 2x10.
I did find that I got stronger on the 1x9 and could handle steeper terrain on it with time, but if I only had 1 bike I'd either go 2x10 or 1x11.
I have a 1x10 on my 34lb Nomad. 7inch fork, coil blah blah. I'm very good on short technical sections and or climbs. Never do i want an easier gear in these situations.
On the other hand, I am OK but not great long-ass climb climber. I just BARELY get by over all. I can grunt it out for shorter rides. Falcon, belcher at White ranch and some spots at Apex are kinda a b!tch but I deal. I rode 35 miles at Monarch Crest the other weekend and I was exhausted.
XX1 would be awesome. Didn't realize there is now a one off 41T cog. That would really be ideal for me anyhow.
1x9 / 1x10 on longer days?
Are you running 32 x 11-36?
Originally Posted by Jwind
I also have a coiled Nomad with a heavier wheelset (for when I hit Keystone or WP).
You might be interested in this thread:
Cheapish 9-speed 11-39t cassette...
The SRAM 950/970 cogs are easily rearranged to provide space for a larger rear cog for a wider gear ratio. Super simple to take apart and move cogs around.
I wouldn't bother with the ebay 38/41 cogs. Everyone I've talked to has had theirs bend relatively quickly. It sounds like a chainring bolted to a cog is much more reliable and works quite well.
Considering the other comments in this thread, it sounds like 30 x 36 or lower works adequately for longer rides.
Based on that, here's what I'm thinking of doing:
11-32 and 11-34 SRAM cassettes rearranged to put the 34T in the 8th position
Bolt a 6 bolt 40T chainring onto the 34T cog
Run a Raceface 30T wide-narrow chainring in front
Run a BBG bashguard
This would give me 30 x 11-40 for about $120. Pretty ****ing cheap. Bolting the chainring should be really simple also, just need to drill 6 holes. Takes maybe 30 min for that and another 30 min to adjust the derailleur at most.
I'd loose only 1 easy gear, identical to my 24 x 30 low gear (instead of 24 x 34). Not bad.
For chain control either planning on keeping my Bionicon Chainguide and adding an N-Gear Jumpstop or getting a 10-speed shadow plus clutched derailleur and running it with a SRAM 9-speed shifter:
Who is using a Shadow Plus 10-spd derailleur with a SRAM 9-spd shifter?
Swap out the 30T for a 36T when I hit the resort and I should be good.
Oh ya. I'm running a 11-36 cluster with a 32T chainring. Honestly, I think ONE easier gear would make all the difference in the world. However, I said that when I was running 11-34
And yes, before i got a 11-36 cassette, I used one of those slide on 36T cogs. I bent it. I can only imaging the 41T would be worse.
You people are all insane.
Or until they come up with 48-tooth rear cogs.
After running 2x8 (32x46 up front and 11-32 in the rear) for the past 3 years, I added the 22 back on the front the other day for next weekend's Laramie Enduro. Based on the calculations in Sheldon Brown's gear calculator, I am only gaining two lower gears, but the last time I raced the Enduro, I was blown by mile 60 and could have used the extra two lower gears.
Like was mentioned earlier in the thread, check the gear calculator and make sure you can cover the ratio you need with the available gears.
I used to run 1x9, and was a big fan for a long time. Definitely did my share of pushing on high country stuff and could never get up Mt. Falcon without feeling like I was going to have a heart attack. Went to 2x10 and I'll not be looking back - it's really really nice after 30 miles in the saddle to be able to click it down to that little ring.
Both are 29ers, went from 32-34 as my lowest to 24-36 granny. Did a lot of riding at 12,000 feet in Telluride over the weekend and I was very happy to have it.
The correct number of bikes one should own is N+1, where N is the number of bikes currently owned.
I'm running 1x10 with a 34 x 11-36 rear cluster on my 30 lb Enduro. I couldn't stand the idea of adding another cable to my bike, so I dumped the front derailleur when I got the dropper post. I won't be going back to a front derailleur - I've even contemplated dumping the front derailleur on my roadbike. I can climb Lookout Mtn without using the granny, but so long as I have to pull a kid trailer, I'll probably stick with it.
There are steep sections that are a little more struggle now, but I'm faster overall without the low gears. Your legs build up to it, and I don't think it really affects me on longer rides with more vert. Today I did 3,500 vft at W Ranch, and even with a headwind, the loose sand at the bottom and tired legs, I didn't want a smaller ring up front.
Lower gears only slow you down...
I'll never drop my granny. I might be fine with just a 32 chainring and 11x34 cassette in the Front Range or anything under 20 miles but once I hit the high country I want options to keep me on the bike. That being said, I have some singlespeeder buddies who do the rides I do and end up being faster or just as fast on the climbs no matter where we ride. Its all about the individual person, their fitness and just plain ability to turn over the cranks. I've found since having kids, Gears rule and I'm ok with that.
Quit blaming the kids. It's old age, Old Man.
Originally Posted by mountaingoatepics
general lee now has 29-35-42 combo that replaces your last 3 cogs on sram or shimano. little pricey but still much less than xx1.
Wait a sec? You're not supposed to feel like you're having a heart attack on Mt Falcon?
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