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  1. #1
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    Who offers steel freehub bodies?

    I'm trying to decide what kind of rear hub I should get for my Heckler. I could get a Hope Pro 2 hub, but those have aluminum freehub bodies which require more expensive cassettes. I weigh 300lbs, so the cassette and chain don't last long on my bikes. I want to stick with SRAM 950 level stuff -- even if I have to buy a King or DT hub, cheap cassettes and chains will save me money in the long run.

    What's a big guy's best option for a strong hub with a steel freehub body?

  2. #2
    drive train killer
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    By long-standing reputation, Chris King stainless steel hubs and driveshells are supposed to be the toughest available anywhere.

    http://www.chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_index.html

  3. #3
    hey, what the!
    Reputation: kjahn's Avatar
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    I'm a pretty big guy too and I have a Santa Cruz VP Free that came with a WTB hub (aluminum freehub) which self destructed after two months. Replaced it with a Hadley (titanium freehub) and no problems for the last two years. Excellent hub.
    the beatings will continue until morale has improved...

  4. #4
    Spring! Spring! Spring!
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    Until these past couple months, I've been a 235 # clyde.

    I've been a hard riding bear, and have broken quite the list of bits, including cassets, chains, and shattering Shim XT freehub bodies (which are in fact made of a type of steel).

    In '01 I put a Chris King hubset on my bike, with the HD axle and steel drive mechanism (including freehub body).

    I generally use XT level cassettes (because the bigger cogs are on a carrier and I find that lasts longer and has better strength than LX/lower).

    My CK hub has needed one part replacement, the C-clamp ring that sits on one side and locks the bearing preload in wore out. Big $40 replacement.

    The hubs have over 10k miles on them, somewhere between 75-90% dirt. Untold mileage in Central Texas (tons and tons of rockiness), a mix-mash of MTB racing, three week-long trips to Moab. No reason at all to replace it, I just keep rebuilding the wheel when the rim wears out.

    Note: The manual for CK states it, but until the hub settles in you NEED to check the bearing preload BEFORE EVERY RIDE when you are a Clyde. Doing otherwise will result in downtime while CK re-machines the hubshell and puts new bearings in, to make it work. Not suggested. How long does this last? Depends upon how often, hard, and long you ride. The good bit? Adjusting the bearing preload on CK hubs with the HD axle is trivial and does not require removing the wheel from the frame even.

    I've heard similar good things of the DT-Hugi FR440 hubs - the ones with the star-ratchet drive, and the Hadley stuff. Newcomers to the market - Industry 9 - also look solid, but since they use a pawl-based mechinism while I am SURE it's great I'll stick with the other designs (CK ring-drive or DT star-ratchet) for my money.

    My "backup" wheelset is the DT-Hugi stuff. No bearing preload adjustments to happen, so potentially simpler, and they sure hold up to me - but I haven't put anywhere near the mileage on them that I have on my CK hubs. They're sure a lot more quiet coasting though.

  5. #5
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    I second the Hadley's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by kjahn
    I'm a pretty big guy too and I have a Santa Cruz VP Free that came with a WTB hub (aluminum freehub) which self destructed after two months. Replaced it with a Hadley (titanium freehub) and no problems for the last two years. Excellent hub.


    I had a set of Hadley's that were totally bombproof and trouble free. I ran them on a few different dowhill/freeride bikes over about 3 years. The titanium freehub body is both light and extremely durable. Hadley's are lower maintenance than Kings and a few dollars less expensive. As for maintenance, I never did a thing to mine for three years and they still worked like they did when new.

  6. #6
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    If you would go for the ss pro 2 version, you'd get a steel hubshell. I don't think hope makes those for the 9-speed version as well. Send them an e-mail and ask about it. If not, for some less you have a shimano XT hub with steel body, for some more you can get the CK rear hub with HD kit.

    I'm a 240 lbs singlespeed rider and managed to destroy a swiss edco aluminum hubshell after 150 km using a surly cog which supposed to be real good for aluminum bodies. Luckily I got the aluminum hubshell for free that I destroyed. Nonetheless I'm ordering a steel hubshell and singlestar 10mm wide cog, more than double the width of the surly.

  7. #7
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    CrossMax / DeeMax wheels

    I have a pair of DeeMax wheels on my Bullit and they have steel freehub bodies. I used to have a set of Crossmax XL Disk wheels that had the same freehub body as the DeeMax. I now have a pair of Easton Havoc wheels on my Heckler and those wheels also have steel freehub bodies. If I were building up a set of wheels I'd still go with the Hadley hubs with the Ti hub body.

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