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Thread: Tubeless Clydes

  1. #51
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    Any success with tubeless on Sun Rhyno Lite rims? I have some Hans Dampf tires going on, which supposedly work very well for tubeless conversions. Mostly, I am just not sure the rims are beefy enough, and I am pretty sure they aren't tubeless rims. I would like to try ghetto tubeless to save money, but I get the feeling that would be tempting fate... anyone have success with a good ghetto tubeless setup (using a 20" tire over the rim tape, NOT the gorilla tape only version)?

  2. #52
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    6'1" 290's

    bonte mustangs
    Bonte FR4 2.35
    stans
    25psi Front/Rear

    Sun Ringle Black Flags
    Bonte XR3 2.10
    stans
    27 - 34psi depends on trail

  3. #53
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    195 cm and 100 kg (6'5" and 220 lb)

    Ride a fully rigid On-One Inbred 29er and use Stans Arch rims with Stans tape and valve.

    Initially ran Mavic Crossmarks (non tubeless specific) for a month or so and then managed to rip the sidewall on one of them.

    Changed to Specialized 2Bliss tyres and have run them for approximately 2 years without getting a flat tyre and I run at about 28 p.s.i.

    Started with Fast Trak rear and The Captain front. Then went to The Captain front and rear for the wet conditions over winter. Have now switched to Renegade rear and Fast Trak front for the dry conditions of summer. I am a big fan of the Specialized tyres and have not had a single incident of them burping.

    The Stans ZTR rims are fantastic and I have been able to seal tyres on the bead without any sealant installed (using a compressor) and I am able to fit the tyres with sealant using a track pump without any problems.

    I only top up the Stans goop every 4 to 5 months and I am now 100% converted to tubeless and for the last 12 months or so I have not even bothered carrying a spare tube with me!!

    Cheers,

    Gags

  4. #54
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    6'2" 280lbs

    WTB TCS Weirwolf 2.3 AM front/rear
    WTB TCS i23 front/rear
    Chub Hub front/Octane rear
    38 psi front/ 42 psi rear

    very nice.

  5. #55
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    6'4" 300lbs stock Spec Alex rims and Spec GC "2 Bliss" tires. No issues and running 35psi front and 40psi rear. Run 55-60psi on the street. Dropped almost 4lbs on bike weight since I had the thick thorn tubes and liners. Best upgrade I have done yet. Bike feels like I just spent $800 on new rims.

    Mark
    2012 XXL Carve Expert

  6. #56
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    Tubeless Clydes

    6'4", 245 lbs ungeared.
    Running Charger Pro 26" and 2.25 LUST Ardents, oh and i use gorilla tape instead of yellow stans.
    No problems at all.
    Also tried 721+ black stans strip, had burps with non-UST tires, and absolutely no problems with LUST maxxis tires or TL ready Schwalbe.

  7. #57
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    Tubeless Clydes

    I'm currently running tubeless on sun ringle rhyno lite. With just rim tape. I'm using wtb Bronson and wolverine. I have to use a compressor or co2 to inflate but other then that they hold really well at 36/38 with 275 lbs above them.

  8. #58
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    I heard CO2 and Stans don't go together well??? People say the CO2 tends to dry out the Stans before it's time. I wouldn't know because I've never tried it...

  9. #59
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    CO2 dissolves in water to carbonic acid, and the carbonate precipitates with ammonium. It's the ammonium that stabilizes the butadiene latex, when it is "lost" to ammonium carbonate the terminal carbon-carbon double bonds in butadiene polymerize to form the latex boogers you all know and love... So Zenke speaks the truth. No CO2 unless it's needed to finish a ride and get you home.
    Go out and ride your bike


  10. #60
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    Tubeless Clydes

    255# I was running roval rims that comes stock on spesh bikes on a hardtail with non tubeless tires no problems with burping. If I ran under 32 in the front and 36 in the rear I ended up having to get the wheels trued and even replace some spokes.....

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by psunuc View Post
    Hans Dampf on Flows.

    25psi front, 30psi rear.

    6'4" 265lbs.
    250 lb in my spandex, Hans Dampf on Stan's Arch, UST rims and tires. I'm running 20 to 25 PSI, but still have to hit some serious single track. I may need to bump that up a little.

    First let me say what a HUGE improvement these wheels are over the stock bontrager ones. My build from Treefort came with the HD hubs, which has turned out to be a bit of a pain as there aren't many 20 mm thrus on 29er forks. Stan's has a nice adapter, and it's still a lot better than QRs.

  12. #62
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    Around 265 without gear. Just started running 29" Flows with Stan's yellow tape and valves; 2.35 NobbyNic TLR SS front (32 psi) and 2.25 RaRa TLR SS (35 psi). I've been running Geax Saquaros tubed on the same wheelset for the last couple of years due to not trusting tubeless at my weight. So far, impressed with the tubeless set up. I am running a few pounds less psi than I did when running tubes. The effect of not bouncing off of every root and rock in the trail is big improvement and the increased traction is a nice benefit as well. As long as you don't go extreme on the lower pressures, it seems tubeless will be fine for us gravitationally challenged types. Although, I personally still have more faith in a true tubeless ready system.

  13. #63
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    Been running Flows with yellow tape for more then two years now....and they have yet to let me down and I have 40lbs on you. Like my buddy says "Tubeless to the People!"

  14. #64
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    Re: Tubeless Clydes

    I'm currently at 234lbs. 5'10". I ride very aggressively... On a HT 29er. I've been looking for this discussion for a while now.

    I'm on Mavic Crossmax St 29 wheels. Schwalbe 2.4 Racing Ralph up front and a Bontrager XR3 team 2.25 rear. Both running tubeless.

    I'm still trying to work out the tire pressures right now. I'm currently at 35 up front and around 40 in the rear. I'd like to go a lot lower in the rear but I already see it squashed pretty low at 39 to 40.
    I'm looking forward to reading what you other guys are running!

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

  15. #65
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    Tubeless Clydes

    Quote Originally Posted by Warnerja27 View Post
    I'm currently at 234lbs. 5'10". I ride very aggressively... On a HT 29er. I've been looking for this discussion for a while now.

    I'm on Mavic Crossmax St 29 wheels. Schwalbe 2.4 Racing Ralph up front and a Bontrager XR3 team 2.25 rear. Both running tubeless.

    I'm still trying to work out the tire pressures right now. I'm currently at 35 up front and around 40 in the rear. I'd like to go a lot lower in the rear but I already see it squashed pretty low at 39 to 40.
    I'm looking forward to reading what you other guys are running!

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
    I am 5 10 250lbs w/ the same wheels on a full suspension. I have ground controls tires 2.3 front 2.1 rear. I run 32 in the front and 36 in the rear.
    No issues.
    Rode the same set up on my stock my hardtail too

  16. #66
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    Re: Tubeless Clydes

    That's good to hear... My plan is to keep going a bit lower abd lower until I hit at sketchy point.... This is my first week tubeless..... Only have two rodés in so far. I'll go down to 36r 32f tomorrow morning and see how that works out for me.

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

  17. #67
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    5'10" 230 geared up. Stock Giant S-XC2 wheels, Schwalbe RaRa EVO TLR front and back ghetto tubeless with Gorrilla tape and valves out of some old tubes. Been running 40 psi all week for my commute to and from work.

    Going on a ride this Saturday. Going to air down to 29 front and 33 rear. Carrying extra tubes just in case...

  18. #68
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    I posted prevously about my disdain for MTX33 rims set up tubeless. One method I hadn't tried was the split tube method. I got my front set up with a 24x2.1" split tube and a 29" Nobby Nic. Set up super easy and has been holding air with no burps at 28 psi on very rocky trails. I just set the rear wheel up the same way but don't have any rides to confirm pressure or burping. I'm about 340 lbs now. I'll post back up with experience on the rear wheel with a Hans Dampf.

  19. #69
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    Rode with BigRingGrinder at Sycamore Canyon today. No burps, no flats. Just about ate all of the tread off of my rear tire though! Going to be looking at a new tire real soon...

  20. #70
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    Flows plus really any proper tubeless tires that aren't silly light or flimsy. I've had great luck the the Schwalbe (NNs, HDs) and really any Specialized 2Bliss series tires (Purgatory, Captain, Ground Control, etc.). ~260#.
    Professional Amateur. Disagree? Submit your grievances here.

  21. #71
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    6'2" 250...I have Stan's Flows, yellow tape, Stan's Valve, with Kenda Nevegals 2.35 UST front and back. I usually pump to 40 psi. I ride fast as hell on the downhill and have always run my pressure high in the past to keep from pinching. I've been riding this tubeless setup through the winter and been riding really hard since spring. Lot's of really rocky trails where I'm at. I'll hit small drops probably no more than a couple of feet. None-the-less have not had a single issue yet. I also used CO2 to pump my tires the first time just to get them to seal. Other than that it's been just a regular pump. I haven't had a single issue yet.
    </g33k> ::: allg33k.com

  22. #72
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    Now THIS is an interesting thread.....

    I just switched to a tubeless setup.

    Using 29in Easton Havens with Maxxis Crossmark UST tires. 220-225lbs. I literally have only two rides on this setup, and was looking for more information on what the "rest of the world" was doing. Being a noob this thread was a help. What I really need is a good tire pressure gauge! My last ride was somewhere around 30psi front and rear.

    I hope the Crossmarks hold up as trail tires... Pumped up they are actually really good on the street - but that ain't what I wanted 'me for!

    Good info folks!

  23. #73
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    Tried all, but UST rims and tires work the best

    I am 250lbs, down from 290lbs a few years ago. I have tried most tubeless setups, even the split tube method (worked OK, but not great).

    Generally, the best setups are UST rims (Mavic 819/823, Easton Haven) with UST tires (e.g., Hutch Barracuda, Geax UST, Panaracer Fire UST). Generally, the UST tires seat on the UST rims with no soap and using a good floor pump (I have a Lezyne Dirt). I also have had almost as good of luck using tubeless-ready tires (e.g., Geax TNT, Hans Dampf Evo) on UST rims or tubeless ready rims (e.g., CB Iodines), but sometimes it is difficult to seat using a floor pump, so I just pull out the compressor. I also use tube tires on UST rims, with mixed ease of installing. Air pressure for all setups is 30-40 psi depending on the tire and f/r.

    When I started tubeless, I converted my tube rims using a Stan's kit. Mavic 519 (719) was easy. Rhyno XLs were almost as easy. Mavic 721 was a bit difficult. All required a compressor. That setup was when I was most likely to get burping.

    What combination I use depends on the bike and how I ride it. The big bike has UST rims with a UST or good tubeless ready tire (strong sidewall). I have complete confidence in dropping 4-5' (or 6-7' if I don't get skeered). The tube tires on UST rims is only for my XC HT, which sees no more than 2' drops.

    So, what I have found is that using a tire and rim for what they are designed to do is always the best. Adapting for what they are not designed to do means more difficulty installing and taking more of a chance with failure on the trails.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    I posted prevously about my disdain for MTX33 rims set up tubeless. One method I hadn't tried was the split tube method. I got my front set up with a 24x2.1" split tube and a 29" Nobby Nic. Set up super easy and has been holding air with no burps at 28 psi on very rocky trails. I just set the rear wheel up the same way but don't have any rides to confirm pressure or burping. I'm about 340 lbs now. I'll post back up with experience on the rear wheel with a Hans Dampf.
    I've got 4 or 5 long rides in on the Hans Dampf rear and its holding air great with no burps. Split tube method is definitely the way to go on the MTX33 rims.

  25. #75
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    250 in my boxers, w/gear probably 265.
    full squish-sungringle charger experts with NoNi/RaRa combo snakeskin.
    full ridgid- stans flows RaRas on both ends with snakeskin.
    4ozs of stans in each rim.

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    I've got 4 or 5 long rides in on the Hans Dampf rear and its holding air great with no burps. Split tube method is definitely the way to go on the MTX33 rims.
    After almost another 3 months of riding the split tube method is still holding up perfectly. No issues whatsoever. I think I'm gonna grab a Stan's downhill rim strip (should stretch for 29" and still be wide enough) and try it. Hoping the Stan's strip will work just as good, be reusable, and make it easier to swap tires.

  27. #77
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    260 lbs without gear.
    29er with:
    Schwable nobby nic’s on WTB i25 with American classic valves and gorilla tape.
    Stans (cup and half in each)
    Currently at 18psi front and 19 rear. Gunna drop one more pound each.
    Just made the jump to tubeless. Conversion was easy. Ride feels nice. I have ridden twice so far this season and love it. I have not flatted yet.
    This forum was what finally drove me to take the tubeless plunge. Thanks!

  28. #78
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    Re: Tubeless Clydes

    Quote Originally Posted by Gasket-Jeff View Post
    260 lbs without gear.
    29er with:
    Schwable nobby nic’s on WTB i25 with American classic valves and gorilla tape.
    Stans (cup and half in each)
    Currently at 18psi front and 19 rear. Gunna drop one more pound each.
    Just made the jump to tubeless. Conversion was easy. Ride feels nice. I have ridden twice so far this season and love it. I have not flatted yet.
    This forum was what finally drove me to take the tubeless plunge. Thanks!
    How wide of a.tire is it that you can run it that low?

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    How wide of a.tire is it that you can run it that low?

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
    Standard Nobby Nics that came OEM on my bike. 2.25. it is a plush ride. I initialy read through this entire forum and tabulated all rider weights and tire presures that were posted. from there I found the average person of my weight on this page was running 30/33 psi (the formula posted by stans for my weight is actualy 33/35). I did notice a small amount of people were going much lower. It didnt seem worth my time to ditch the tubes if I was only going run 30 psi as I can do that with tubes. So I decided to go lower. I stared at 25 psi and didnt notice much of difference, so like Pee-Wee Herman with a limbo stick I said 'How low can you go" My first real ride was at 20 psi. I though I can go lower with out it being squirly so I droped two lbs up front and one in the rear. Side wall at 18/19 folds but does not buckle. I think a big thing that helps is the wide rims. My rims are 25mm wide (internal) would go wider if I had the cash. With a wide rim you are less likley to burp due to corner stress. I cary a tube when I ride cause im scared of flatting. With my WTB rims once the bead is seated in the rim, it is realy stuck in there. When I was doing this job I had to redo one wheel. I had to work really hard to get the bead out of the rim. Big kudos to WTB for the i25 freeq rims. I did need a compressor to get the tires to seat. I inflated to seat the bead. deflated added sealant with an injectore and used a floor pump to inflate again.
    Tubeless Clydes-peewee3.jpg

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    wow, I'm surprised to hear that you are running pressures that low at your weight. that is very promising for me
    Im 260 lbs running wtb 125 freq rims and noby nics. comfortably and 18ps1

  31. #81
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    I cannot see it. Same set-up, running 25 front, 28 rear. Racing Ralphs came off bead in fast corner, throwing me over the bars and off the trail yesterday. I am 245 lbs. Maybe I am just faster than I thought. lol

  32. #82
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    Re: Tubeless Clydes

    Quote Originally Posted by Bdabike View Post
    I cannot see it. Same set-up, running 25 front, 28 rear. Racing Ralphs came off bead in fast corner, throwing me over the bars and off the trail yesterday. I am 245 lbs. Maybe I am just faster than I thought. lol
    I agree. Nobody 260 is running 19psi. They must have a bogus gauge. Wider rims help

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  33. #83
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    Just got a set of charger pros. Still sittin in the box in fact. 22.8 inside width. But at 210 lbs, I am thinking...more like 28/30. Can't imagine running anything less than 25 psi.

  34. #84
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    About 245 in gear. Running Easton Haven with Maxxis Crossmark LUST. According to my gauge. 29 front - 31 rear.
    Bike Doctor



  35. #85
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    240 with gear, wheel has 22mm internal width, 2.4 Ardent front at 26psi and 2.35 Ikon rear at 28psi. Working great for the rocky trails here.

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  36. #86
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    Hans dampf front, ardent 2.25 rear on Roval Traverse wheels

    Mid 20's front, high 20's rear

  37. #87
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    Had a Kobby Nic front/Racing Ralph rear and kept them around 27 psi on Yeti SB95 and 220lbs plus gear. Went to Hans Dampf front and rear and been running around 25-27 depending on trail conditions on Enve AM wheels, LOVE this set-up. Now that it's summer I'm going to throw on another Racing Ralph in the rear but I can not see running any less then 23 lbs reliably, but I tend to be on the faster side of the scale and run in intermediate terrain in Georgia.

    While a benefit to going tubeless is indeed running a lower pressure, it's also a weight benefit and where the weight is located on the wheel in terms of circumference. There will still be a benefit to running tubeless over non even at same pressures. I wouldn't be comfortable at anything less then 22/23 psi as at 25 and my weight I can feel the tire squirming on hard pack.
    SB5.5c XL M70HV EagleGold
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    ASRc L RS-1 120 EnveM60 XTR 1x11

  38. #88
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    Tubeless Clydes

    Have to admit, my RaRa SS are pretty tough at 650gm. Notable failures - Conti Protections, Phythons, FastTrak Controls, Nano. This comes at the expense of price and wear.


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  39. #89
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    I cannot comment on the accuracy of my guage as I have only the one gauge on my filzer zepher pro floor pump. they did feel a lil squirrely last ride. I think due to errybody on this forum telling me I shouldn't go so low and the squirrely feel I will go back up a few psi front and rear. so I will be 260 lbs running imma say 22 rear 20 front, no wait i like odd numbers so 23 rear 21 front.

  40. #90
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    Woaaaa, RaRa' SS are tough ? Man, those are the fastest wearing tires I have ever used, knobs break down after a few hundred miles….good race tires, but do not last Fast Trak Controls , which I now use on fronts have over 1000 miles and still going strong.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gasket-Jeff View Post
    I cannot comment on the accuracy of my guage as I have only the one gauge on my filzer zepher pro floor pump. they did feel a lil squirrely last ride. I think due to errybody on this forum telling me I shouldn't go so low and the squirrely feel I will go back up a few psi front and rear. so I will be 260 lbs running imma say 22 rear 20 front, no wait i like odd numbers so 23 rear 21 front.
    Maybe the tire can hold the rim at those low pressures, but you have to watch out for dinging the rim on an impact to the wheel, too. Yeah, you can't 'pinch-flat' a tubeless tire, but you can do one worse by denting the rim and making it so it won't seal up anymore. At that weight and in rocky conditions, I'd be real hesitant to go that low.

    I keep mine around 30 psi. I don't like the squishy feeling, and we have a lot of rocks here in Utah.
    '11 Specialized Enduro Expert for the trails
    '13 Felt Z4 for the road

  42. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tystevens View Post
    Maybe the tire can hold the rim at those low pressures, but you have to watch out for dinging the rim on an impact to the wheel, too. Yeah, you can't 'pinch-flat' a tubeless tire, but you can do one worse by denting the rim and making it so it won't seal up anymore. At that weight and in rocky conditions, I'd be real hesitant to go that low.

    I keep mine around 30 psi. I don't like the squishy feeling, and we have a lot of rocks here in Utah.
    Okay 23/25 but no higher. till I ruin my rim and my shoulder doing it.
    Never let the reality become larger than the dream ~ P.W. Herman

  43. #93
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    Tubeless Clydes

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfdog93 View Post
    Woaaaa, RaRa' SS are tough ? Man, those are the fastest wearing tires I have ever used, knobs break down after a few hundred miles….good race tires, but do not last Fast Trak Controls , which I now use on fronts have over 1000 miles and still going strong.
    Tough for weight, but fast wearing. I got the first gen on close out for $33 with free shipping. You want tough and long wearing? Saguaro TNT. It's a beast. I'm thinking of the Fast Trak Grids as my next rear tire.


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  44. #94
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    300 LBS
    Stans Arch EX Rims 29"
    Stans rim tape
    Stans Sealant (the sidewalls do no seal with slime pro, believe me)
    Schwalbe Tunder Burt Race Guard 29"

  45. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocBilly View Post
    300 LBS
    Stans Arch EX Rims 29"
    Stans rim tape
    Stans Sealant (the sidewalls do no seal with slime pro, believe me)
    Schwalbe Tunder Burt Race Guard 29"
    What pressure?
    Never let the reality become larger than the dream ~ P.W. Herman

  46. #96
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    Tubeless Clydes

    I'm riding Roval Control Carbon 29 wheels and weigh in at 230 right now but trying to get back under 220. I follow the divide the weight by 10 and add 2 psi to the rear (25 psi) and 1 (24 psi) to the front. Feels pretty good to me although I could probably drop 1 or 2 in the front.

  47. #97
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    I don't see how you guys deal with the bouncyness of some tires at low pressures, especially on hardtails. I know a rear shock can take some of the bouncyness out of the equation bc I've felt it on my Kona Hei Hei 29er and Titus El Guapo before.

    On the way home from buying my 14' Trek stache hardtail, I noticed the ride was pretty bouncy in the 17mph range when pedaling sort of hard. When I got home, the pressure was at 24psi.

    6'3" and 215 with gear. not quite a clyde but I would think at higher weight, the bouncyness would get worse.
    Last edited by berny2435; 06-20-2014 at 10:09 AM.
    back at it
    2014 Trek Stache 7.

  48. #98
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    Oh you're a clyde, Berny.
    ( Clyde class is 200 lbs +).

    And I agree with you. I like my tire pressure just a tad under 30 psi (so far) and I'm 210 lbs., riding 22.8 inside diameter sunringle 29er rims.

    I am thinking other factors come into play however. Thickness and stiffness of the sidewalls, for example. Also, a tire that feels great climbing in the rocks at 5- 10 mph might feel totally different cornering on pavement at 25-30 mph.
    Last edited by Centurion_; 06-20-2014 at 07:39 PM.

  49. #99
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    I would think a stiff sidewall could lend to more of a spring effect.

    I'd imagine there's a happy medium in which the pressure feels real nice but a couple PSI lower or higher starts to get more bouncy and pingy. each tire having different sweet spots.

    i'd guess that thinner sidewall and tread tires actually have a bigger window of optimal pressure b/c the tire doesn't have as much spring effect.

    keeping a good pedaling cadence would help if running lower psi.
    back at it
    2014 Trek Stache 7.

  50. #100
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    Tubeless Clydes

    If I go too low in tire pressure in the rear, my bike feels squirrelly in the corners.

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