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  1. #1
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Tora 318 Solo Air (Or) Tora 318 U-Turn Coil For Clydesdales

    Hello Everyone,

    I need a little help, I finally have the extra funds to upgrade my fork, My current fork really bugs me to the core. I would like to know which version of Tora 318 would be more suitable for my weight. I'm 6' 2-3" and under 270 pound. The Price isn't a problem w/ these 2 forks, I just don't know which is more Stable / Reliable & Suitable for my weight.

    Thanks.
    Upgrade what you need, not what you Want.

  2. #2
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    you'd be maxing out the pressure on a soloair, and the extra firm spring might be a little soft for you, but either would work, and both would be reliable! rs makes good forks these days, and the tora is stiff as hell.

    the stock coil spring is suitable for 130-150lbs riders, you'll need a spring upgrade right off the bat, which adds another 50 bucks onto the price.

  3. #3
    i call it a kaiser blade
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    you're a big guy.

    i'm 220ish and think that i'm at the upper limit of the solo-air.

  4. #4
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    There are people riding solo-airs that are over 300 pounds.. I think he will be fine.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtail Rider
    Hello Everyone,

    I need a little help, I finally have the extra funds to upgrade my fork, My current fork really bugs me to the core. I would like to know which version of Tora 318 would be more suitable for my weight. I'm 6' 2-3" and under 270 pound. The Price isn't a problem w/ these 2 forks, I just don't know which is more Stable / Reliable & Suitable for my weight.

    Thanks.
    The Manitou Drake might be another consideration for you. Marzocchi told me the Marz DJ3 with a coil switchout is good for big folks. Call them and find out what years they mean. I'm not sure. No Lockout on the Marz though I think.
    Last edited by zarr; 03-07-2009 at 08:05 PM.
    roccowt.
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  6. #6
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    i had near 300psi in my 29er tora 318 soloair... never a problem... based on the chart @ 80mm (29er fork at least) the psi is 1lb - 1psi... but it's more important to go with the proper sag...

    I love mine... other then it's heavy... I just went to 100mm setting and WOW its sweet also runs at lower pressure (larger air volume)...

    IMHO a plus side of the air fork is it's progressive in nature... the deeper into the travel you get the stiffer the spring gets... so the small stuff on the initial travel is squishy... but deeper into travel it gets harder and harder to compress
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by donalson
    i had near 300psi in my 29er tora 318 soloair... never a problem... based on the chart @ 80mm (29er fork at least) the psi is 1lb - 1psi... but it's more important to go with the proper sag...

    I love mine... other then it's heavy... I just went to 100mm setting and WOW its sweet also runs at lower pressure (larger air volume)...

    IMHO a plus side of the air fork is it's progressive in nature... the deeper into the travel you get the stiffer the spring gets... so the small stuff on the initial travel is squishy... but deeper into travel it gets harder and harder to compress
    in other words, If I'm 270 pound, I should put about 270psi right...?
    Upgrade what you need, not what you Want.

  8. #8
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    in theory yes...

    but for true proper suspension setup you need to adjust it to about 20% sag... depending on how you have your cockpit setup you might need more... or less... then ride... if you're bottoming out to much add some air... not using all the travel remove some... worked well for me...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  9. #9
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    I'm 330 lb and run a 318 tora soloair. I only run about 210 psi for 20% sag.

  10. #10
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    the 1lb : 1psi is for 80mm 29er fork... i'm running similar pressure now that i'm at 100mm on it... still playing with the pressure... but the longer travel setting has more air volume so runs at a lower pressure (same concept as a road tire running 100psi vs our fattys running 35psi

    either way... the pressure chart is on the back leg of the fork... it'll give you some guidelines... but stops at 220#... you can get a basic idea of where you need to be and then tweak it with sag and feel durring a ride... the real point was... I ran 300psi with out a problem and used every travel near every ride out... no problemo...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  11. #11
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    I have been riding on my solo air for about 6 months now and it has been a great upgrade. As far as pressure goes, I weigh very close to you, about 265 and I ride slightly below 200 PSI, basically I pump it to 200 since I always lose some taking the pump off and it has been fine for me.

  12. #12
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    I ride the Tora 318 Solo Air and love it. I wiegh 245 (in gear) and ride it with 200psi. It is a great shock for us clydes as recommended on this site and in this forum. I have found it as low as $199.

  13. #13
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    Been riding my 318 Solo Air Tora 29er for 9 months now. I'm back to riding it in the 100mm setting and I find that I only run 150psi in it (I'm about 230lbs with gear and water). I like a little extra sag (30%) to keep the HT angle on my bike good, and with a little extra compression damping, I get full travel without bottoming harshly.

    Great fork

  14. #14
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    Never mind....
    Upgrade what you need, not what you Want.

  15. #15
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    UPDATE
    I guess Air is the way to go,

    I did a little searching and Found a Drake Fork, which fork do you guys think is better..?

    2009 Manitou Drake Super Air Absolute + Shock Pump - $319 w/o Shipping
    Or
    2008 Rock Shock Tora 318 Solo Air - $258 w/ Shipping & Shock Pump
    Last edited by Hardtail Rider; 03-15-2009 at 03:31 PM.
    Upgrade what you need, not what you Want.

  16. #16
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  17. #17
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    +1 for Cambria bikes, I bought one from them and so did my friend...

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryank930
    That looks like a really good deal, thanks for posting it!

  19. #19
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! !!! ~ Update ~ !!!

    Thanks everyone for the Help, My Tora Air came in today & I have a few question before I cut it tomorrow.

    1. Is there anything that I need to do before cutting/installing the Fork beside setting pre-load & pumping Air?

    2. How often do I need to service My Fork to keep its performance up..
    Like Adding Shock Oil or something...? (I'm Clueless).
    Last edited by Hardtail Rider; 03-19-2009 at 03:50 PM.
    Upgrade what you need, not what you Want.

  20. #20
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtail Rider
    Thanks everyone for the Help, My Tora Air came in today & I have a few question before I cut it tomorrow.

    1. Is there anything that I need to do before cutting/installing the Fork side setting pre-load & pumping Air?

    2. How often do I need to service My Fork to keep its performance up..
    Like Adding Shock Oil or something...? (I'm Clueless).
    It is air...no need for oil! you can set the preload and pump air after its installed. Just make sure you add some spacers incase you want to sell or change the height.

  22. #22
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    yup spacers are good... lets you adjust it if need be in the future... or you get a different frame...

    for inital use... slip a zip tie onto one of the stactions (SP?) and get the shock pump and get some air in there... use the chart on the side for a baseline of PSI for proper sag...

    read this for a quick setup guide...
    Suspension Set-up Basics for the Beginner
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  23. #23
    err, 27.5+
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    Cool, glad you got on air. I don't trust any of the mfgs to make a coil strong enough for you. I have a friend at Fox and the party line there is over 210lb, get on air. RS is the same. Some big guys don't mind riding a 30-40% sagged fork, but I can't stomach a fork that bottoms out doing a 2-3ft drop.

    My White Brothers Fluid was an exception to this. It has air assist and fairly stiff springs. Worked for me all last year. I was about 225-235lb throughout the season.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  24. #24
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    Another Update.

    I couldn't wait so I got the tube cut, I'm having a problem installing my Stock BB5 Disk Brake

    I think I need something, what is it called?
    Upgrade what you need, not what you Want.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtail Rider
    Another Update.

    I couldn't wait so I got the tube cut, I'm having a problem installing my Stock BB5 Disk Brake

    I think I need something, what is it called?
    Adapter for your disc brakes???

    The fork is IS mount, your calipers are either post or IS. If your having difficulties, and your using a 160mm rotor then chances are your caliper is post mount. If your using something bigger than a 160mm then you will need an adapter for your rotor size. Bike shop should have the part.

    Look at the old fork...Is the mounting different?

  26. #26
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    If the picture in your signature is representative of your current bike then your old fork was post mount, the new one has IS mount brake bosses (as medik13 pointed out). You'll need an adapter to go from post to IS. The adapters are specific to the caliper and size of the rotor, you should be able to get one from the LBS for around $10. Assuming you have 160mm rotors, this should be the right one: https://www.ebikestop.com/avid_cps_f...0mm-BR6939.php

  27. #27
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    I've check my LBS and they don't have any.

    I guess I'll be ordering it online since I need some other stuff as well.

    I've made an Order on This... hope its the right one
    http://www.treefortbikes.com/index.a...20&parent=a439
    Last edited by Hardtail Rider; 03-21-2009 at 11:37 AM.
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  28. #28
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    Looks like that should do the trick.

  29. #29
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    A Question...

    Is it better to leave the Compression "Open" or "Close/Lock" when your not using the bike...

    Or it doesn't really matters....

    P.S

    How Do I change the Travel on the Tora 318..? I know it supports 130mm but I couldn't fine any control to change it.

    Not that I want to change it, I'm just curious
    Last edited by Hardtail Rider; 03-22-2009 at 07:37 PM.
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  30. #30
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    ...don't matter if you leave it in lock out or not... heck I removed the knob... (it would hit my down tube if it was in certain positions and i had brush catch it a few times and lock me out... didn't use it so off it went)

    for changing travel... it's VERY easy...
    CLICK ME for sram tora service PDF
    honestly after the 1st time it's a 10 min job TOPS... make sure you have some paper towels around and a bit of 5wt suspension oil (my shop donated some... it's only like 3ml/cc)

    basicly... take off the air cap... press the valve to let out all the air with a hex key... push the fork down and do it again... then unscrew that legs screw at the bottom of the fork leg a few turns... tap the hex key with a soft mallet (wood end of a hammer works... and tap till it's loose... unscrew the rest of the way... then with a big socket (or adjustable wrench remove the top cap... then slide the inners out (you may need to prod them a long a tad to get a finger hold of it)... then pull the internal tube apart (bottom tube releases from the top one... no need for any tools... don't remove the snap ring like I did my 1st time... it's not needed... haha) then remove or replace the spacer with the one speced for your specified travel... put a bit of oil on the seals/o rings and get it all back together... get the bottom screw started and tightened if you can... put 3cc/ml into the top of the internals before you screw the top cap back on... screw it on and put some air in it... roll happy...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  31. #31
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    That is a really clean description on changing the travel. I have been thinking about taking mine to 130 but didn't want to pay someone to do it. I guess if I mess it up I can always just pay them to put it back together....

  32. #32
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    ...as long as you are careful to not stratch anything (including the O rings) theres nothing to worry about... if you have a work bench at the house just lay everything out on a work bench area... i don't have a stand or anything like that... I put the bike sideways and layed the fork flat on a rubber maid tub with a towel on it...

    i will cover myself and say that the 1st time around I'd been told I didn't need any oil... and I prob could have gotten away with out oil if i hadn't wiped off the oil off everything... i had a click sound from the stiction when I got it all back together... that I only found about a mile into my next ride...

    before the next ride i stopped by my LBS... my guy lets me barrow his tools and his stand... made things a lot nicer not having to balance the bike... 2nd time I didn't change travel either... but now that I know whats going on thats literaly an extra few seconds... put a bit of oil on the o rings got it all together with the proper oil fill inside and all was well

    so in short... it's STUPID easy to do... once you've done it you'll see just how easy it is... the only thing i wouldn't service myself is the bushings...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  33. #33
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    oh also take note when you cahnge travel that the pressure to achieve proper sag is different.. the higher travel needs less pressure to maintain a similar spring feel... pay attention to what it says on the back of the fork leg for a baseline
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  34. #34
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    Thanks A lot,

    I run into a little problem(Not sure if its a problem) while installing the fork. Theres a plastic ring that broke on one side, I think it can still be use.




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  35. #35
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    not broken... just a cheap/inexpensive headset... goes under the stem (or spacers whatever is lowest)... coveres the non sealed bearings... have the same thing on my redline...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  36. #36
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    The adapter doesn't come w/ any bolts I hope I'm ok w/ this type of mounting



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  37. #37
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    should be fine as long as it's the proper thread pitch and all... never think about the I.S. and post mount differences... buddy had the same prob last week at the shop, he upgraded from an old manitou black to a used reba... lucky for him our shop guy is awesome and had a few IS adapters laying around along with a drawer full of bolts
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  38. #38
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    Looks like you're missing some hardware between the caliper and the adapter. AFAIK there should be a set pair of those convex/concave spacers in there too.

    If you don't have it, the installation guide is here:
    http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/...%20Rev%20C.pdf

  39. #39
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    good eye... there should be another washer set between the adapter and the caliper
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  40. #40
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    How are you liking the fork so far? I just ordered one for myself. It should be coming in tomorrow. I'm stoked!

  41. #41
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    I have a Tora fork, and I'm 299. It's super stiff, on my other bike I had a Rock Shox Reba and it was 'bouncy'. The Tora on the other hand only pushes in on big bumps, and my weight in a normal riding position doesn't make it sag very much.
    'Get a bicycle. You will not regret it if you live.'
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  42. #42
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    HI! Loving It So FAR!

    Hey Everyone, First would like to thank everyone for the help...

    I have a question for those w/ Solo Air, What is the Largest Rotor I can put on the Solo Air..? I'll be ordering my brakes soon, Will I be OK w/ 185mm Rotor?

    Thanks
    Upgrade what you need, not what you Want.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardtail Rider
    Hey Everyone, First would like to thank everyone for the help...

    I have a question for those w/ Solo Air, What is the Largest Rotor I can put on the Solo Air..? I'll be ordering my brakes soon, Will I be OK w/ 185mm Rotor?

    Thanks
    185mm will be fine. That's the size that I run. I think they say MAX is 205+, but I can say for sure that 185mm will be perfectly fine.

  44. #44
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    Not that it's a practical thing to do, but anybody know anybody who changed the lower legs and different size internals and changed the 26er fork to a 29er? Is this possible?
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  45. #45
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    sorry to jump in late on this topic but are the TORA solo-air and the u-turn the same shock..???....Im 280lbs...would the Tora air be good for me ???

  46. #46
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    no the U turn is a different shock... U turn has a spring and air... as I understand the spring is to get you pretty close to your proper spring rate and the air shock is to fine tune it... you also get a knob that will change the amount of travel on the fly which is pretty neat... not sure how it works but i'd love to try it out haha...
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by donalson
    no the U turn is a different shock... U turn has a spring and air... as I understand the spring is to get you pretty close to your proper spring rate and the air shock is to fine tune it... you also get a knob that will change the amount of travel on the fly which is pretty neat... not sure how it works but i'd love to try it out haha...
    As I understand it the Tora U-turn forks are coil spring only and don't have any kind of air adjustment. There's several different springs for different people's weights.

  48. #48
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    I found a Tora 318 solo-air for 243.00 with shipping. Is that good ? I clicked on the CBO link above but I dont see any Tora 318 for 209.00..please let me know if im missing it...but any way i have a DART 3 now and there is nothing wrong with it..can you guys convince me in to buying a new fork for my bike ???

  49. #49
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    I got my 318 solo air from CBO a few months ago, that was a good deal, I'm not surprised to see that they're all gone (it was an OEM fork, no retail box or anything).

    Personally I wouldn't bother upgrading the Dart 3 until it either broke or you notice it affecting your riding in a negative way. If you say that there is nothing wrong with it, then why upgrade?

    Then again, if the money isn't a problem then go ahead, you should notice a difference.

  50. #50
    SunnyDaze
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    I rock a Tora 318 Solo Air on my 29er. I'm 6'4" 310 lbs. I keep it at around 260 - 270 lbs, and I've had zero issues thus far. Keep in mind, it's only been a month.
    Burn fat, not oil!

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