Switched to 180s a few years ago. I could tell the difference immediately. I'm 6'2" but have femur of 6'6"ish frame. That's where I think the difference is. With a long femur a longer crank allows for a better motion through the stroke. It's why we don't have 140s on adult bikes. If it didn't matter, we would.
6'4", switched from 175 to 180 on my single speed. Didn't notice a huge difference in peddling or strikes, but for a while some knee pain. Maybe just old (51). But 180s make sense, gotta be easier so if I had to choose, would go 180.
Í'm on 180's on both SS mtb and geared road bike, but I also have bikes with 175 and 170 and I don't notice that much of a difference actually.
I'm 6'3" and ride 180mm on my road bike, 177.5mm on my cross/commuter bike, and have 175mm on my mtn bike. I like the longer cranks, but try to limit the road and rock strikes.
Would love to try 185mm or 190mm on my road bike if they were more mainstream!
Im 6-3 and run 180 on my hardtail, which is also my commuter when I throw road tires on it. Not a big difference but I can definitely tell if I am paying attention. Both my bikes are 29ers so I think my bb is a little higher, makes me not worry about pedal strikes.
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Running 180mm on my commuter.
All my other bikes have 175mm crankset.
The reason I swapped in the BMX 180mm cranks is to see if I can tell any difference between 175mm and 180mm in the saddle. Rides less than 3.5 hours I don't really feel a difference. At 3.75 hours I start to feel every revolution like the cranks grew to 210mm .
Out of the saddle I really feel the additional 5mm via leverage. I would probably even like 185mm for out of the saddle climbing.
As a side note I'll be training for centuries and double centuries (Road) I might swap to a 172.5mm to deal with hour 4 through hour 14.
When my son and I start bike camping next summer I'll probably use the 180mm with small chainrings (38/26T).
2012 Cannondale Trail SL 29ER 4
1994 Cannondale Super V 1000
1996 Cannondale F500 rigid-fork 69'er
Nobody that i saw has mentioned that you will get a longer stroke with a thinner pedal.
I ride canfield crampons you gain a quarter inch of pedal stroke and a quarter inch of ground clearance. the pedal is 11mm thick.
Now thats not to say your actual crank arm wont hit but for pedal strikes and leverage you gain both.
This may be a viable solution to you all as it has been for me.
Assuming you are running flats.
I'm 6'5", with a 34" inseam. I've had 180's on all my bikes, including the beach cruiser, since the 90's and have no trouble at all with pedal strikes due to a 5mm extension. I do feel the difference on climbs, however, when riding a new bike I haven't swapped cranks on, yet.
roadie just getting into mtb. HAve a torn ACL in my left knee which is why i started cycling 2.5 years ago. I'm 6'3" with long legs and used to ride 170mm on my road bike but when I bought a brand new bike the larger frame size came with 175 and switching it out wasn't an option (bikes direct). The hardcore roadies I ride with are amazed at a big man like me and my ability to spin. I simply tell them that it was out of necessity, I didn't want to make my knee worse. from riding with these guys I've built up confidence that my knee is fine for cycling so I mash a bit more now but I still don't mind the shorter cranks. As strong as I am, it's a moot point. I can see how in MTB'ing where you have rough terrain and lower speeds that you want to get more out of each push vs a full pedal stroke of road biking but I guess I'll be finding out for myself soon enough
hmm 6'2" inseam what 34 or less? 180 vs 175 might not be noticeable, but at 6'6" and 36.5 inseam I'd take 180 any day over 175 and damn the strikes.
I run both 180mm and 175mm cranks. I did notice the difference on road bike that I use to have but I cant say that I notice any difference on my mountain bikes. I bet I could if I have two identical bike (minus the crank length) and rode the same trail back to back but that would probably the only way to really tell.