Super Clyde looking to upgrade to disc
I'm 6 ft. tall and weigh in at 360lbs on the nose. I've been running for the past 3 weeks (I'm down 10lbs) in preparation for running in 3 Spartan Races this year, and thought that getting in my bike once or twice a week will only help me. My stuff is all older from a bygone era when I weighed a paltry 225lb. I have a 2000 Jamis Eureka Frame, 2007 Rock Shox Tora Fork, Deore LX V Brakes, and Campy Stentho/Deore Wheelset Circa 1994. They've served me well through 2 bikes, my only complaint being that it has been hard to keep the rear wheel true, and now I can feel a lot of flex in the rear wheel going though turns at speed.
I want to upgrade to disc because it seems that my V brakes aren't really stopping me very well. When I squeeze the brakes, I get lots of noise but not much stopping. I've settled on Avid BB7 brakes, but I'm stuck on the wheels. My budget is only about $300, which is why I'm stuck. I found a set of WTB Laserdisc TCS with Deore XT hubs for $185, but the reviews on the rims aren't all that great. Any suggestions?
Does that frame even take disc brakes?
Originally Posted by askibum02
I'd say right out of the gate - up your budget for the conversion to disc brakes. That is, if the frame does have rear disc brake tabs.
The pair of brakes themselves, cables and housing are going to cost you around $120 for the brakes, plus the cost of cables and housing. That could be $20 - 30 as a cable/housing disc brake kit, or less if you buy directly from an LBS who can just pull the amount of housing you need off of their spool.
That doesn't leave you much to work with for wheels. Wheels are what make a bike - IMO. And you need some specialty wheels at your weight. Nothing off the shelf. You need super-Clyde, purpose built wheels with beefy rims, heavy duty spokes and a solid hub. Again, I would go to one of your local LBS's and have them build a set of wheels that fits your weight and riding needs that comes as close to your budget as possible.
It's 2013 - prices are way, way different than when you bought your bike back in 2000. By the time you are all said and done, it almost makes sense for you to consider getting a new bike.
That being said. If you really clean up your rim braking surface, install new V brake pads and keep them clean as well, V-braking performance can be excellent. You just have to clean the rim braking surface and pads after every ride to maintain that excellent braking performance. That's within your budget, and the maintenance is free in terms of supplies, but labor intensive.
The bike has disc mounts on the frame. My $300 wheel budget is for just the wheels. I've budgeted separately for the brakes, cables, etc. I haven't looked at buying a new bike, because I put a lot into my current bike, that even after 10 years I still wouldn't be able to touch in my price range today. XT derailleurs front and rear, XTR bottom bracket, Chris King headset, and air/oil fork with lockout. At $6-700 which is the top range of what i could afford for a new bike, I'd be getting all entry level parts, including wheels that I would end up needing to upgrade anyway.
26" Sun MTX 33 Disc Wheelset w 8 9 10 SPD Shimano SLX Center Lock Hubs White | eBay
Something like this would be a super strong wheel. Only disadvantage is that you might have trouble with the Shimano rear freehub. They aren't known to be clyde proof but the SLX hub should have the stronger freehub.
The SLX hubs use the stronger "29er" freehub body, it's much stronger than the XT freehub body. This is a great deal, leaves plenty of money for either six bolt adapters or centerlock rotors. The DT Spokes and nipples are solid and the MTX33 rims are a clyde's wet dream.
Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413
Former bicycle mechanic for 8 years, current soil scientist.
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