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  1. #1
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    SO I'm a Clydesdale

    (Mini Clyde ~ Noob) And breaking stuff is bad?

    I'm learning that the XC bike and some of the parts are not clyde friendly.

    I'm 6' 215lbs. size-13 shoe.

    Getting back into MTB (Got out in 96 with an older 1" head tube / unsusended Cannondle).

    Mid Feb I picked up a 2007 Specialized Epic used from my LBS.

    First mod was Mallet clipless pedals,

    First clipless ride was great~ Clipless rocks, The power I can put to the ground on climbs was incrediable. 15 miles into a 17 mile ride I hit a good climb and snap crackle pop. The casset skipped and I broke a sram chain. Replaced the chain with a shimano XT and Shimano LX casset then noticed the crank creak I had forgotten about.

    Luckily (at that point) I found this section. The Cydes section gave me a whole new perspective on parts buying. With some research I now have a set of Shimano SLX cranks on the way. 2x ring + bash.
    Last edited by whitfield96; 04-07-2011 at 12:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    The nomral list of advised drive train (generated by much research)

    SLX cranks
    KMC X9 chain (SRAM 990 is good if cross-step, must not be standard or hollow pin)
    SLX or XT cassette
    I like steel chain rings too.

    The epic is a great bike, I wouldn't mind one to play on.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  3. #3
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    Thanks CaveGiant ~
    My LBS was telling me the SLX and XT casset were more light weight race stuff and less durable. With nothing high end in stock ~ they pulled the LX casset off of a floor model for me. On the chain I was reading Shimano litature about the shift ramps and they were saying the Shimano chain was made to take advantage of them. Any truth to any of that?

    The LBS batting average for getting me straight is in the 150 range ~ so I'm not putting much stock in what they said.

  4. #4
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    Clyde stuff is VERY specific knowledge. Most techs do not realise it is not the weight of a clyde that causes damage, but the huge peak force from big clyde legs.

    The guy is unfortunately completely wrong on both counts.

    Shimano do not make good chains. When they transitioned to 9 speed, they kept the same pinning mechanism. This made the weak-point the link between the pins and the outer plates. Shimano 8 speed chains might have been good, but 9 speed are weak.
    SRAM had a similar issue, which is why they released the 'cross-step' version of the 990.
    This is a regular 990 chain, but uses a different pinning method.
    The 990 cross step is a very good chain.

    The KMC chains all have an advanced pinning method, so are all strong. The only difference between the different models is weight and rust resistance. the X9l gold is my normal choice as I live in a wet climate (gold are almost rust proof, but they only make in l and xl {l stand for light}). If you do not live in a wet place get the X9 silver.

    regarding cassettes. Shimano make better ones that SRAM.
    Although the XT is the lightest cassette out there (excluding exotics) it is also the strongest.

    The weakpoint with cassettes for a clyde is both the pins between the plates and the plates themselves. SRAM cassettes make their plates so weak that I have been able to fold them over while riding! If you avoid SRAM that issue goes.

    With shimano look at the pins holding each cog together, then realize the amount of force that goes through that. It is possible to shear those pins, this causes a hell of a lot of damage to the hub when the cassette goes.

    On the SLX and XT there is a large aluminium structure suppoorting the cogs. this evens out the force and supports the cogs.

    So even though XT is light, really light, it is strong.


    Next time you are in the shop, look at the size of your thigh, then the size of the guy in the shop. His advice will generally be good for similar people, but you are in a different league for power output.

    hope this helps.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  5. #5
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    I forgot to add, although the 990 cross step is an excellent chain, the KMC chains are cheaper and last longer, so better value.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  6. #6
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    all chains take advantage of shift ramps.

    Shift ramps help a little bit, but it is not major. I have used rings with and without ramps, I did not find the difference that much.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  7. #7
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    Very insightful... Great information. Thanks!

    I think I will change out to the KMC chain before breaking in my new drive line.

    You are correct about the LBS tech~ Looked like he'd have trouble opening a car door.
    LBS tech could not produce the power to make my casset skip or my cranks creak.
    I have legs like tree trunks and was breaking the big sprocket pin off of the GT BMX one piece cranks before I could drive.
    Last edited by whitfield96; 04-08-2011 at 05:40 AM.

  8. #8
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    SLX crank install

    Remove the pedals from old cranks FIRST.

    I had trouble seating the spindle and RIGHT sprocket side arm and spindle into BB the bearings. Once you are close you can install the left arm and pull the right home with the plastic cap. Just realize it is plastic and only run it down finger tight (I used park tool BBT-9). This snugged the crank arms into the bearing / spindle assy as I could feel it bottom out.

    Grease everything. Removing my new 2 week installed pedals was a SOB with the cranks off> They make a loud pop when the broke loose.

  9. #9
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    I break chains, hubs and have ruined a couple bottom brackets.
    KMC chains are definitely stronger. I don't think I've broken one. I recently ruined an XT hub and a DT 340 and I only like Chris King bottom brackets now.
    One of the coolest breaks I did was snapping a tapered square on my old HT. The walk back sucked, but it made for cool pics.
    I like turtles

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