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  1. #1
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    Problems with MTX 33 29 coming out of alignment.

    I am just wondering if I would have had a real good wheel builder build this wheel if I may not be having the problem of having to re true my rear wheel all the time.

    I jump small curbs at high speed and the back comes out of true regularly. I have Wheel Smith spokes. I bought these from Bens Cycle and they were take offs on some kinda bike they had laying around. They were in new condition.

    Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
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    A decent build - machine or otherwise - should hold up just fine. Those rims are plenty strong.

    I personally would be suspect of take off spokes/nipples. I'd only trust new spokes/nipples - but that is just me. I am not an engineer, but would guess that a spoke can only be stretched once and remain at full strength.

    You should discount my opinion, because based on my opinion of the logic and points made in your Obamacare thread you would consider me a pinko-liberal-mindwashed-unthinking-sheep. Just sayin'
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  3. #3
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    I don't think he's saying the spokes and nipples were used. I believe he's saying the wheelset was taken off of a new bike when the purchaser of that bike had different wheels to use (or bought upgraded wheels).

    But, I do agree that those MTX-33 wheels, if built properly, should stand up easily to the use the OP described. JMHO.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, the back seems to need to be trued every 3 months. I am 275 and run over curbs but in a timed fashion.

  5. #5
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    330 lbs and give my bike hell. Haven't touched my MTX33 wheels in a couple years. You need a good wheel builder.

  6. #6
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    Thanks , who does yours? can I take it apart and get better spokes and redo it ?

  7. #7
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    If you're inclined to re-build your wheel, I would encourage you to give it a try. I wouldn't go smaller than 14/15/14 (2.0/1.8/2.0) butted spokes, and get a known good quality brand (DT-Swiss, Wheelsmith, or Sapim). Sapim also makes a spoke caled the "Strong" that is 2.3mm at the J-bend and is butted down to 2.0mm the rest of the way. They are designed with tandem bikes in mind, so strength is of primary importance. I have used for them for my own wheels on the drive side rear, and rotor side front.

    I would also advise you to use brass nipples on your first few builds at a minimum. They seem to 'build' easier than alloy nipples, and for big guys, I would still recommend staying with brass nipples because they are strong and durable.

    If you're going to rebuild, I would always use new nipples.

  8. #8
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    Thanks, this wheel has wheel smith spokes and the wheel is low hour. Cannot figure out why it keep coming out of true. Had it trued 3 months ago. Will talk to bike dealer locally.

  9. #9
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    You say yourself that you are clashing over kerbs. Sharp edge hits at speed are never a good thing for a wheel, never mind something you do repeatedly.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TooTallUK View Post
    You say yourself that you are clashing over kerbs. Sharp edge hits at speed are never a good thing for a wheel, never mind something you do repeatedly.
    So more than likely it is my fault? I do not have problem with front. I skip the cubs the best I can but maybe it is not enough.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Thanks , who does yours? can I take it apart and get better spokes and redo it ?
    Mike Curiak at Lace Mine 29 - Big Bicycle Wheels

    I build my own wheels now though and they hold up well. As a clyde, the best thing you can learn to do is keep your wheels tensioned. Keeping true isn't nearly as important as keeping them tensioned.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    So more than likely it is my fault? I do not have problem with front. I skip the cubs the best I can but maybe it is not enough.
    If that was a stock wheel off a bike, chances are it was machine built and never properly tensioned or destressed. I'm learning that a lot of local shops don't spend the time necessary to truly go through a wheel properly. Learn how to take care of your own wheels and check them regularly and they will hold up a LOT longer.

  13. #13
    Chris Bling
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    As far as spokes I would look at the Sapim Force Spokes. They have a higher tensile strength than the DT comps and have an incredible fatigue life.

    As others have said, MTX 33's are bomber and shouldnt be comin out of true that easy. I saw a guy on a set of MTX 33's come short on a canyon gap at Grafton, UT and impale the mountain! It bent the fork, the frame (Kona Stabsupreme) and the wheel was still perfectly true. The dude weighed at least 250 to boot. I have built up several MTX 33 wheels and they are truly amazing!
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  14. #14
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    Thanks for the help, I had a professional mechanic re true the wheel and he uses MTX 33's as well and he lead me to believe their is no way a 280 pound person can run over 20 or 30 curbs a day and not expect the spokes to come loose over time and need to be trued.

    He said maybe if I redid the wheel and used some kinda spoke lock tight I may get better results but he felt I was asking to much out of the wheel and said the build is good.

    He said the spokes just came loose because of what I am doing to the rear wheel.

    It was a good thing I took it in because she was gonna collapse.

  15. #15
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    Dang...good thing. I've been riding my MTx33's for several years and still true as the day I got them. I ride a lot of roots and rocks and have been riding from 320 pounds down to my current 250's. They really are great wheels but obviously they don't like being bashed against curbs. Not sure there's a wheel that does.

  16. #16
    Chris Bling
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Thanks for the help, I had a professional mechanic re true the wheel and he uses MTX 33's as well and he lead me to believe their is no way a 280 pound person can run over 20 or 30 curbs a day and not expect the spokes to come loose over time and need to be trued.

    He said maybe if I redid the wheel and used some kinda spoke lock tight I may get better results but he felt I was asking to much out of the wheel and said the build is good.

    He said the spokes just came loose because of what I am doing to the rear wheel.

    It was a good thing I took it in because she was gonna collapse.


    I would say its time to find a new wheel builder.
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  17. #17
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    He said we could take it apart and redo with some kinda stuff on the spokes he recommended some different spokes. The front is no problem but the back just has come loose 2 times.

    The curbs range from like 7 to 9 or 10 inches and I hit them from 20 to 30 MPH. I try and skip the back the best I can. The tires are only 40 CM so that may be the problem as well.

  18. #18
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    Seriously...I can't possibly see where it's a wheel issue. It's a rider issue IMO. Hitting concrete curbs 7-10" tall at 20-30 mph and you don't expect issues with the wheel(s)? I'm sensing some trolling going on here or someone really needs to step back and think hard about what's going on. Concrete vs. thin aluminum...my money is on the concrete winning.

  19. #19
    Chris Bling
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    He said we could take it apart and redo with some kinda stuff on the spokes he recommended some different spokes. The front is no problem but the back just has come loose 2 times.

    The curbs range from like 7 to 9 or 10 inches and I hit them from 20 to 30 MPH. I try and skip the back the best I can. The tires are only 40 CM so that may be the problem as well.
    Sounds like you might want to get a bigger tire and perfect your bunny hopping!!
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Sounds like you might want to get a bigger tire and perfect your bunny hopping!!
    I think you are right, I am thinking of lacing a 650 B to get it to fit. Most of the curbs are typical 7 or 8 inch and I am learning to skip the rear better.

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