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  1. #1
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    Octilink 1, how tough is it ? what is considered best ?

    I bought a crank and thought Octilink was Octllink but my stock setup was Octilink 2 and the crank came and it was 1 and I had to change my BB to 1 to make it work.

    Were the 1's known for striping or something, will a strong person strip it out. Does it require constant tightening to stay snug. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I've had the Shimano Octolink M-751 180mm for going on 10 years now. They won't break or bend, so I keep moving them from bike to bike. As for the BB, I've never had a problem with them. They are heavy, but last 2-3 years with no maintenance required. When I hear a clicking noise, or the shifting starts missing, I check for any play. If so. I screw in another cartridge. Pretty bullet-proof.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, I did not realize I needed to change the bottom bracket and the TECH only had a used one laying around so I will listen closely for clicking. It took him a while of fiddling and goofing with it to make it work. I had to remove the 42 inner sprocket and run the 53 ring only but in FL it should work good for what I do.

    So my 7700 crank set should be a keeper from what you are saying, I was thinking about ordering a 200 mm crank set but have read mixed reviews on weather they add to the drive experience.

    I have really long legs that make good torque so if anybody should benefit it should be me, it would keep my cadence the same in theory but provide 10% more torque if the system fits my legs good.

  4. #4
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    The Octalink v1 interface between the crank arm and BB is narrower. Nothing wrong with it- just more likely to cause damage a crank arm bolt loosens. I run Octalink v1 with 180mm Shimano M952 cranks on my 29er single speed. I also run multiple JIS square taper cranks/BBs with no issues.

    No matter what style of bottom bracket, I check the bolts after the first few rides on a newly installed setup.

  5. #5
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    Thanks, Yaa I screwed one Square taper setup up by not checking them. The 200 mm I have been looking at are square taper and you say ST is OK as long as you look after it? The newer setups with the outboard bearing do they offer good benefits specially in stiffness for drive?

  6. #6
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    Octilink 1, how tough is it ? what is considered best ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Thanks, Yaa I screwed one Square taper setup up by not checking them. The 200 mm I have been looking at are square taper and you say ST is OK as long as you look after it? The newer setups with the outboard bearing do they offer good benefits specially in stiffness for drive?
    I "look after" any that I install for a couple of rides to make sure they remain tight (and use a torque wrench). I put a drop of blue Loctite on the square taper BB faces when I install crank arms.

    Square taper is plenty stiff for me- some of this depends on what crank arms you are using. I have 3mm of crank arm clearance on the drive side chain stay of my full suspension bike. The White Industries forged crank arms on there do not flex...

    I run one SRAM GXP BB with external bearings too. No difference in stiffness as far as I can tell.
    【ツ】 eDub 【ツ】

  7. #7
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    Thanks

  8. #8
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    You should not go near 200mm cranks IMHO. You need to learn to spin, not have even bigger levers for you to do even more damage to your drivetrain. You start breaking such rare beasts as 200mm cranks and you'll spend a lot more money.

  9. #9
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    Stick with Un72 square taper BB's. Very strong, well sealed, east to care for. Tons of square taper cranks available- even better ones from back in the day.

  10. #10
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    So any BB is good if of high quality and looked after I guess from what you are saying.

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