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  1. #1
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    Newbie needs help picking out a bike...

    Hi everyone, i'm new to this forum. I'm 5'11 and weigh about 300lbs. I need help picking out a mountain bike on a budget. My plan is to go trail riding a few times a week as part of my workout. I know i would have alot more fun doing this than running on a tredmill at the gym. Before finding this forum i was set on just going to a walmart or sports authority to pick out a bike. I didnt realize they had such poor quality bikes. What kind of bike would be best for me considering my weight and that i plan to use it the majority of the time in trails. The only time i would use it on the road would be a few miles, on the way to the trail. thanks in advance
    Last edited by jcruz; 06-08-2009 at 11:50 AM.

  2. #2
    I'll take you there.
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    what is your budget ?
    Be excellent to each other.

  3. #3
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    I would like the maximum to be around 1000.

  4. #4
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    kona hoss...

  5. #5
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    Would any kona hoss model be able to handle the weight? What are your thoughts on specialized Rockhopper models. They have some models that range from 640 - 1350. Will any of those do the trick for me?

  6. #6
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    I would get on as many bikes as you can before you purchase. The Hoss' have a strong frame and a decent component set up. Specialized are great bikes but the Hoss is made for and marketed to the big guys.....

  7. #7
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    thanks

  8. #8
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    Let us know what you decide on.........

  9. #9
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    I will definetly let you know what I decide. The hoss is a nice bike but after seeing the rock hopper and hard rock for almost half the price, it making difficult for me to decide.

    Thanks

  10. #10
    I'll take you there.
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    The Redline d440 shows up often on the clyde boards. I personally rode an '08 HARO Escape Sport and fell in love with it.. the frame is superbly strong, and beautiful to look at.. the downside? .. its a clyde on its own, coming in at 33 lb. But, if you're not a weight weenie, you should love it.

    Both of those are in your price range. My Haro cost me $450 after tax, on sale. It retailed for $690 according to the site. So you know there will be wiggle room in your bargaining at the LBS.
    Be excellent to each other.

  11. #11
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    i'll 2nd the d440 being up to the task... I'm a bit heavier then you... after a year I did manage to kill a few spokes but nothing that couldn't easily be fixed be fixed... and with the money you save you could upgrade to stronger wheels (IF NEEDED)...

    I recently just sold it to a fellow clyd rider... and he's been enjoying it...

    but def ride as many rides as you can before you decide on something... and welcome to the world of MTBR and cycling
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  12. #12
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    Everyone thank you very much for all the info. You guys were very helpful.

  13. #13
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    Alright guys , so i went to the lbs this past weekend and rode a few different models. I ended up getting a cannondale F5 that they had on sale. That bike felt pretty good compared to the others. My test ride was just a short ride in the parking lot. On sunday i took the bike down to some paved trails for the first time. After a 2 hour ride i found that my wrists and my big butt were in alot of pain lol. Through out the ride i kept stopping to adjust my seat and i feel that i finally got it at the right height. The seat was to low for me and didnt allow me to fully extend my leg when i had the peddle down. But now that the seat is up higher i'm wondering if maybe my handlebars should be higher. Maybe the fact that i raised the seat up higher , its now putting more weight on my wrists. Is there an easy way to know what would be the perfect height for the handle bars. Should they just be level with the seat? Hopefully someone on this forum can give me some tips on how to be able to adjust the handlebars. Even though i havent got the fit quite right yet, i had so much fun on the ride. I cant wait to get everything adjusted correctly so i can go a longer rides.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    congratz on the new bike

    your problem is not uncommon... if there are some spacers above the stem you can raise the stem a bit to get your bars higher... if it's maxed out you'll need a new stem or riser bar to get the bars up... bar height is all preference... some people like it above the seat, some level, but most prefer below (better for handling)... i've got mine a smidge lower then the saddle (and drops lower when the fork compresses)... it's what is comfy to me...

    as always adjust your saddle 1st then start working on your bar height... for saddle height... you should be able to put your crankarm inline with your seat tube (furthest point from the saddle)... with your heel on the pedal you should be able to lock and unlock your knee... when you get that right adjust KOPS (knee over pedal spindal) sit on the bike in ridding position... with the pedal forward and cranks parallel to the ground put a plumb line against the lower portion of your knee the line should drop right inline with the pedal spindle... if you move your saddle forward you need to raise the post, back then you need to lower it (effective distance has changed)... once you've got that set you'll get a feeling of what you want/need up front with the stem/bars...

    the weirdest part of bike fit that i've found is that once you are close to your ideal fit is that just a few MM makes a HUGE difference... seriously a 2.5mm change in stem height made a night and day difference in how the bike handled... just weird
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  15. #15
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    I will definetly give that a shot. Im also currently in the middle of trying out a few different saddles. Can;t wait until everything on the bike is setup right for me. thanks

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