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Thread: New Wheelset

  1. #1
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    New Wheelset

    I was running stock WTB STi i19's both front and rear. I took a horrible line on a drop I was unfamiliar with, at night, and dinged my rim pretty bad. Tried to true it as best I could, one spoke needed to be loosened but was already flopping around. LBS said same thing. So, I'm having a set of Stans Flow 29 put together on their 3.30HD hubs. Anyone running these or have any problems with them? Everyone I spoke with said they're damn near bomb proof and should last for me. Here's hoping.
    "The most expensive bike in the work is still cheaper than the cheapest by-pass surgery in the world.

  2. #2
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    IDK about stan's hub being bombproof...how much do you weigh ? are you riding xc or what ?

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    Can't say anything about the Stans kit, but if they don't work out too well for you, I'll throw out my usual recommendation: Azonic Outlaws

    They make 26, 27.5, and 29, and are renowned for being cheap and bulletproof, even if they are a bit heavy.

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    The flows are great.... There hubs are kinda meager... Sloppy engagement but they haven't broke after a season so I can't complain.... Flows in kings or hopes would be ideal

    My 2 cents

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    Well, other people will comment, but here's my take.

    If you're big, you really want 36 spokes on the back wheel. 32 is fine on the front, but the back wheel is dished and carries two and a half times the weight.

    For four extra spokes, you can give it enough strength to do its job properly.

    For spokes, I usually use Sapim race on the non-driveside, and Sapim strong on the driveside.

    Shimano hubs are forged instead of CNCd. This makes them a much better bet than most botique hubs for clydesdale use.

    You will find lesser wheels do the job, and people will say I don't know what I'm talking about, and how "bombproof" the wheels they ride are. But a suitable rim built up as I've described will be more durable than what you'll get off the shelf.

    Hope that helps.

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    Oh yeah, and learn to build your own if you can. You will never be at the mercy of a bike shop again, and it isn't hard.

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    Sorry for the delayed response, works been busy.

    I'm 285-290 geared and ride xc. I walk anything sketchy, and ride drops with smooth roll outs at the bottom, I don't ride too much technical stuff in an attempt to keep my bike and wheels from busting. In the past, I've run an Alex Rims DP20 32H and had good luck with it, but once I upgraded bikes I kept the stock wheel set on my Santa Cruz, WTB i19's, and figured I would replace them WHEN they got dinged up. I don't ride hard per say, but at my weight, even easy riding can be hard on the bike.

    After speaking with the shop guys at Stans, I'm sticking with the 32 spoke rims. I spoke with a guy that weighs a bit more than I do yesterday, he rides the same setup I'm getting and rides a lot harder than I do, he hasn't had any issues so it looks promising. The wheelset should be in around Thursday or Friday, I'll get in a ride Saturday morning and go from there.

    I do plan on getting a wheel stand and learn how to build wheels in the future, all in do time.
    "The most expensive bike in the work is still cheaper than the cheapest by-pass surgery in the world.

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    Good luck with the new wheelset. It should still be strong enough. The usual caveats apply - stress relieve and retension the wheels before you start.

    If you think about it, though, the idea that wheels should have the same spoke count front and back is silly. The front wheel is not doing nearly as much work as the back wheel. You can tell by the numbers of back wheels that fail relative to fronts.

    The real reason most bikes have 32 spoke rims allround is because it's cheaper for the shop, as it gives them a smaller inventory (and in the case of factory wheelbuilding gives them lower manufacturing costs). That's one of the reasons I wouldn't work in a bike shop anymore.

  9. #9
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    Flow rims are great. I'd lace em to Hope hubs if they're not being sent to you as complete wheels. I think Stan's offers a high strength hub option. I'm not sure, I've never used them.
    I've been 288 pounds, 250 right now. I've been riding 32 spoke wheels forever. If they're built correctly, they'll last fine. Use DT Swiss Competitions and brass nipples.
    If you go with complete wheels from Stan's, have someone go over them. They'll need the tension checked and to be stress relieved.
    I like turtles

  10. #10
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    Yeah they're coming complete from Stan's, shipped to my LBS. They'll go over them, check the tension and stress relieve them for me. I'm going with the Stan's 3.30HD hub, but was told if at any time it gave me problems they'll exchange it for Hope hubs. I went with the 3.30HD due to the larger burlier bearings.
    "The most expensive bike in the work is still cheaper than the cheapest by-pass surgery in the world.

  11. #11
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    I like turtles

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    What do ya'll think about these ? I'm 275 and ride urban on the weeknights and xc on the weekends...The bike is a 14' rockhopper comp.

    I see he is using alloy nips , I'd request brass nips instead.

    New Custom Stans ZTR Flow EX 29er Disc Mountain Bike Wheelset Shimano XT Hubs | eBay

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnFL View Post
    What do ya'll think about these ? I'm 275 and ride urban on the weeknights and xc on the weekends...The bike is a 14' rockhopper comp.

    I see he is using alloy nips , I'd request brass nips instead.

    New Custom Stans ZTR Flow EX 29er Disc Mountain Bike Wheelset Shimano XT Hubs | eBay
    XT freehubs and clydes DONT MIX,lol. Not sure why but when your thing lightweight riders are blowing them apart right and left, enough info right there, clydes will destroy them. You could go SLX hubs, which I have now, and though not fancy and not the lightest, be damned I cant destroy the freehub is I try. iM 6'1 270, ride XC (sometimes on the rougher end of the xc spectrum) stand and mash, etc. If your not going high end hubs, get SLX not XT.
    Trek Marlin 29er

    Like It, Love It, Want Some More Of It!

  14. #14
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    I'll 2nd the SLX over XT. I've had 2 sets of SLX, stood on them and can't bust em. Also had the SRAM 746 and so far haven't had any issues with them.
    "The most expensive bike in the work is still cheaper than the cheapest by-pass surgery in the world.

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    It's a tradeoff.

    Shimano hubs have forged shells. This is far better than CNC hubs. Lots of CNC hubs break at the flanges, but in all my time in the trade I never came across a broken Shimano flange.

    SLX (or LX or even plain old Deore) are better, though, because the last I heard (out of the loop these days), the bearings and axle are now smaller to save weight. That will reduce their lifespan considerably, unless you rebuild them a lot.

  16. #16
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    Are you guys calling the M529 hub the SLX? I've built a bunch of wheels with the M529. For the price, it's tough as nails.
    Doesn't the SLX come with Centerlock?

    And yeah... Clydes don't let Clydes use XT hubs.
    I like turtles

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the info , that's what I needed to know !

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