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  1. #1
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    the most heavy duty free hub

    had repeated failures of top of the line shimano freehub. would like others input of their similar experiences.what is the most bombproof freehub on the market? Top 5? Thanks for you're ideas.

  2. #2
    Former Bike Wrench
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    No need to repeat a thread

    Chewing up Freehubs

  3. #3
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    Chris King, their hubs are almost indestructible.

  4. #4
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    Just curious which Shimano freehub is the 'top of the line'?

  5. #5
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    not sure of the model #....it's the one my mechanic recomended

  6. #6
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    Hadley or King, it is a no-brainer.

  7. #7
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    CK update

    I authored the post chewing up freehubs and I just picked up my new wheel. 36h, ck hubs and Stans flow rim. I will ride it tonight and keep updated as a clyde community service.

  8. #8
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    I went through four Shimano and two Sun freehubs over about a year before trying a wheel built around a DT Swiss 440 hub. That wheel didn't whimper one bit through quite a bit of riding. I kept it as a spare when I sold the bike it was on. The DT Swiss 240 based hub on the '08 Stumpjumper I got this year seems like it is holding up just fine (so far!). I also have a set of Transition Revolution 32 wheels on a Kona Coiler and those seem to be working well.

  9. #9
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    I've put CK HD rear hubs with steel freehub body on 2 bikes to replace Shimano and Sun hubs. One on a 26" IH 7p3 that I bought a brand new wheelset for with Jumping Flea hub(stock wheelset with formula hubs never failed 12x150 both), crushed in a few weeks(don't think it was possible to correctly adjust the thrust bearing in that one - tolerance or design problem), replacement CK has gone 3-4 years without a problem. Second was a 29" wheelset Shimano hub went about 3 months could never get replacement FH body to adjust correctly and gave up on Shimano forever after taking apart the failed FH body, pretty apparent why these things fail I think; if it's not crappy pawl steel then it's the unbalanced pawl arrangement(pockets every 120 degrees but they only fill 2). Replacement CK is now in another wheelset still going strong.

  10. #10
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    My Shimano XT hub failed after about one month of use. After that I went with CK 12x142 TA 36h on a Stans Flow wheel. The King has been solid but not flawless. One must pay attention to the bearing tension for the first few months. I checked mine every ride and frequently adjusted it. The stock free hub body where the cassette mounts to is aluminum. Clydes must pony up for the stainless steel body. I chewed through mine much faster than I expected, roughly two months of riding. The "Ring Drive" is sensitive to grit especially when new. After a few wet rides mine became fouled up and it pretty much stopped working. I could do an entire pedal revolution and not go anywhere. I had to have the hub disassembled and cleaned up. Been solid since. The DT Swiss 440 Free Ride hub is probably the most heavy duty hub available. The downside is the lack of engagement points at 18, the CK is 72 (awesome). The option of the 36 point engagement was a no go for clydes. The DT rep told my LBS to keep me off it. That's why I went with the CK. I will build up another CK, some teething issues but well worth it for the ride.

  11. #11
    Never enough time to ride
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    Another vote for the Chris Kings here, I've got one set with 15k on them and they are still rocking and another I put about 800 on this last summer. I have actually had water sitting in my freehub shell and they just kept working. I would go for the Stainless freehub body if your really abusive, it will be a lot more durable than the stock Alloy part.

    DT's 18 tooth engagement rings are great for big guys, like Cuddy said, but my rep told me the same thing, keep heavier guys off the 36. I have dealt with a couple of stripped DT ring drives but to be fair neither were well maintained and had a lot of gunk and grit built up in them.

    happy trails...

    squish
    Get out and ride!

  12. #12
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    thanks for all the good info folks

  13. #13
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    I have had the phil wood 36 hole tandem hubs for years. they have a big flanges. 14 gauge spokes on ryno lite dh rims. before I got this set up I was blowing the shimanos and popping spokes. it also took me too find a great bike shop that is a one person operation. custom wheel building and fixes bikes and builds them. if he didn't sell stuff that works he would go out of business. 300 sumthin pounds.... and given the shrek nick name.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rossluzz View Post
    Chris King, their hubs are almost indestructible.
    Phil Woods are up there as well. I had a Phil years ago and it was flawless.
    More LBS' carry Chris King's so that's the only reason I switched.
    I have been running King's for the last few years without any problems. Every winter I take it to my LBS and have them clean and regrease it. This year I have 3200 miles on it and next month will get it tuned up.

    I had an old King that had well over 15,000 miles on and sold the bike and the guy is still running that hub.

    Can't go wrong with either one, just make sure you have the wheel built by someone that understands "wheel building".

    Woody

  15. #15
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    If you're on a budget, Transition Revolution freehub with steel body for $100 & 22 points of engagement.

  16. #16
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    shimano xt fh-m756 6 bolt disc is the hub to use, ive got 2 pairs for a 100quid

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetiasx View Post
    shimano xt fh-m756 6 bolt disc is the hub to use, ive got 2 pairs for a 100quid
    I don't know what a quid is these days, but sounds like you over-payed. Honestly, I've broken four of those in a year - that was my lesson in the poor getting poorer when buying inexpensive hubs. Each time they broke, the innards were replaced for free, sticking me with the bill for labor.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    I don't know what a quid is these days, but sounds like you over-payed. Honestly, I've broken four of those in a year - that was my lesson in the poor getting poorer when buying inexpensive hubs. Each time they broke, the innards were replaced for free, sticking me with the bill for labor.
    1 quid = 1 pound sterling = $1.57 usd

    So 100 quid = $157 usd

    two pair is front and rear X 2 I assume, so price is about right. But not a heavy duty freehub for sure.

  19. #19
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    I've got 2 woodman rsn hubs, strong like bull. It has a solid 15 mm axle filed down to 10 mm so the nutted axle will fit in the drops. Redcomendo.

  20. #20
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    Another vote for Hadley. Almost as close in engagement as the CK and less in price and just as rebuildable. (No need yet!)

    the 10mm thru axle option is the best. A single 6mm head and the wheel is off as fast as a QR.

    Had it now for over a year and half in New england mud, dirt with no issues.

  21. #21
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    His prime request is strength, this is where CK stands ahead of all others. It is the only hub (bar the poorly made DT) to use a star ratchet.

    Most hubs use ratchets and pawls. This means the force is placed on 4-6 pawls (assuming they all engage which is less likely under high torque, the torque twist missengage is what killed all my pawls).

    The CK engages 72 points at one, all ways, it never misses with any.


    For strength of engagement there is nothing close.

    Whether that much strength is needed for most is debatable, but better to be too strong than not strong enough. This is coming from a guy who had to rebuild a hub at 4000ft in a snowstorm using only a rock and profane language (thankfully as a routine hub rebuilder that is all I needed, wish I had my CK on that ride).
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  22. #22
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    strong freehub

    I had the same problem. Kept upgrading in Shimano and kept blowing them out and walking out of the woods. I switched to DT Swiss (340) two years ago and have had no problems since. Chris King may be the strongest and have more bling, but DT Swiss was a little cheaper and didn't recommend as regular of maintenance (requiring special tool). Bought a new bike and had them rebuild the rear wheel with DTS before I left the shop.

  23. #23
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    I stopped using shimano hubs back in the mid-90's with several blown hubs and walking out of the back country . Boy that SUCKS!
    If these companies want to test their equipment they should give it to Clydesdales.
    Clydesdales are like the "Aberdeen Proving Grounds" if there is a weak/fault to it we will find it.

    Woody

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by woody.1 View Post
    I stopped using shimano hubs back in the mid-90's with several blown hubs and walking out of the back country . Boy that SUCKS!
    If these companies want to test their equipment they should give it to Clydesdales.
    Clydesdales are like the "Aberdeen Proving Grounds" if there is a weak/fault to it we will find it.

    Woody
    Right on! It's so true! Our equipment is under extreme stress just to get down the trail. Unfortunately most of us have to finance our own testing. Nothing goes to waste, I tell people what holds up and what doesn't.

  25. #25
    Spring! Spring! Spring!
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    FWIW, the DT Start-Ratchet drive is IMO just as durable as the CK ring-drive - but I side on the case of the CK hubs - stainless drive-shell and HD axle with 10mm RWS thru-bolt (originally HD axle with fun-bolts). I have 1 pr of CK "universal" hubs that are going into their 11th year of service (I stopped counting miles on them when it went past 25k of dirt), and 1 pr of CK "iso" hubs that are much younger.

    I also have a pair of DT 440FR hubs on my DH wheels, but were formerly used for AM. They roll more quietly and are easier to clean the crud out of the drive mech ... of course I have to clean the crud out of them more frequently than the CK because the system is not as well defended against the elements.

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