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  1. #1
    Track Junkie
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    So I've just nuked the freewheel in my new(er) Shimano XT hub. Something about the pawls bending backwards or something. This is the second one this year, and my 4th or 5th over the past few years. The bearings are finally shot too after they have loosened several times.

    I'm looking for a good, durable hub that offers the best "bang for your buck" performance. I'm not looking for the lightest, loudest or most expensive, and I don't want a hub that requires proprietary tools to adjust or rebuild.

    Suggestions?
    I get paid to ride shotgun.

  2. #2
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    Hope.

  3. #3
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    Has anyone had experience with the Hope aluminum freehub body galling with a cassette on it? I've had this issue with other aluminum freehub bodies.

    -B
    I get paid to ride shotgun.

  4. #4
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    Find out what it is you are doing and stop doing it. If it is the internals, which it sounds like, your weight has nothing to do with what is happening. You are not putting more power through it than top riders, and they don't strip rear hubs.

  5. #5
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    I see you are experienced with using the forums....so I assume you know how to use the search function. Having said that, it sounds like you don't like Chris king, so hope is a great option, along with Hadley. Yes, alum. Fh bodies will get chewed up by a cassette. Either go steel fh or xt cassette with carriers.

  6. #6
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    I have been running a Hope Pro 2 Evo hub with a stainless body since December. No problems yet. If you're ordering/building a custom wheel, you could also bump up the spoke count to 36 for extra stiffness if you're currently on a 32-spoke wheel.
    Justin
    Salt Lake City
    2012 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 29
    2006 Specialized Allez Expert Double

  7. #7
    Track Junkie
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    authalic: regarding the Stainless body, are you referring to the freehub body, or the hub? Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see this as an option on their website.

    jonshonda: Thanks for the suggestion for the Hadley, I had forgot about that option! I'll probably go with a Hadley over the Hope as we build the new wheel.

    TooTallUK: Torque = Force X Lever Arm. If my force (weight) is 100lbs more than a comparable XC racer, then the engagement stresses (shock) on the pawls is more severe than a lighter rider. My freehubs have broken under shock-load, not constant load.
    I get paid to ride shotgun.

  8. #8
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    Yes, the Hope Pro 2 freehub body is available in stainless or alloy. I can't find anything about it on their site, but here's the listing on CRC:

    Hope Pro 2 Freehub Body | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    I ordered my wheels from prowheelbuilder.com and it was an option there. The price difference isn't very much. The stainless freehub body does weigh more.
    Justin
    Salt Lake City
    2012 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 29
    2006 Specialized Allez Expert Double

  9. #9
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    authalic: Thanks for the info! I appreciate it!

    After a little research, I'm weary to use the Hadley's because they do require specialized tools to do the maintenance.
    I get paid to ride shotgun.

  10. #10
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    Sure. From what I have heard, Hope hubs are very easy to service. I haven't had mine long enough to require any work or rebuilding yet, but it looks like the bearings are easy to swap out and the pawls & springs can be replaced if they break. I did a fair amount of research before I ordered my wheels last fall. Hope hubs had almost universal good reviews. The only complaint some people had was with the noise. They are loud.
    Justin
    Salt Lake City
    2012 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp 29
    2006 Specialized Allez Expert Double

  11. #11
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    Hopes are the best choice. Bomb proof IMO. I am a masher and not a smooth pedaler by any stretch of the imagination. My hopes are holding up great. Im running mine with the steel fb. Only complaint is the engagement leaves a little to be desired. On a single speed at least. Never noticed it on my geared bike.

  12. #12
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    You might take a look at the DT Swiss 240s. It requires no tools at all, and I'd like to think that its engagement mechanism will never break. But, it's not cheap either...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Octane View Post
    TooTallUK: Torque = Force X Lever Arm. If my force (weight) is 100lbs more than a comparable XC racer, then the engagement stresses (shock) on the pawls is more severe than a lighter rider. My freehubs have broken under shock-load, not constant load.
    I weight 100lbs more than most racers and I've never broken a rear hub that way. I know many other heavy riders who ride far more than me and far harder and they don't do that either. As I said, identify what it is you do when riding (shock load?) and stop doing it. That failure is not normal.

    Hope have had issues in the past with shells cracking at spoke holes.

  14. #14
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    TooTallUK: Yes, it is usually a failure due to shock load. The Shimano XT rear hub (specifically, the freehub) is a good product, but it is the weak link in my drivetrain for my riding style. I ride very technical trails and Trials, as well as racing DH and Enduros. I'm a big boy, and I expect to break stuff. Just looking for something stronger/more reliable than the Shimano XT unit.

    Thanks for the advice guys!
    I get paid to ride shotgun.

  15. #15
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    For me, Hadley is the best bang for the buck. Simple, extremely well made, easy to service, and tough. Not certain what you mean by specialized tools (I think it is just spanners, allen wrenches, and cone wrenches), except for needing to replace bearings. May be tough to find sometimes, but I seem to always see rears on ebay. I think Balle Racing currently has some in stock.

    If you are into trials, then maybe consider True Precision. Heavy and expensive, but instant engagement. I have one (bought it used on ebay for way less thand $400), and it has been very reliable.

  16. #16
    Trail Prospector
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    Quote Originally Posted by Octane View Post
    ... weary to use the Hadley's because they do require specialized tools to do the maintenance.
    Other than a 21mm cone wrench and Park (P-1?) spanner tool ($8) no special tools are needed to work on a Hadley hub.
    The best is the one you want to ride most often..

  17. #17
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    I've gone through multiple shimano freehubs, big guys can eat em fast, thats a proven fact. Nothing you can do thats worth more than getting a strong hub with a strong freehub if you are big. I'm a huge fan of the DT swiss star ratchet. SUPER strong and exremely easy to take apart and service. Just as easy or easier than a hope. I would vote for a DT Swiss 350 rear hub over a Hope. You might pay a little extra but its worth it if you are worried about the freehub mechanism. The 350 rear hub (not true for front) is easily convertable between rear axle standards similar to Hope.

  18. #18
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    Oh and in regards to an aluminum freehub body. They work fine as long as you run a better cassette that has a spider for at least the biggest 6 gears. Been runing a SRAM 990 cassette on my aluminum bodied DT Swiss 440 for a couple years now with no issues. I hover around 330 lbs and ride my bikes hard.

  19. #19
    beater
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    I've been riding Hope Pro 2 Evos for 15 months. After 5 months (last August) I destroyed the alloy freehub body. Hope offered me a stainless body as a warranty replacement, and were great to deal with. Two months ago, I exploded two of the cartridge bearings. For reference, I'm 230 lbs, riding a Banshee Prime with a 2x10 drivetrain. I'd say they're reasonably strong hubs, affordable and easy to work on. But not bombproof, in my experience. I'm not bailing on Hopes, but I'm going back to DT Swiss for my next rear wheel.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

    Riding in Helena? Everything you need to know, right here.

  20. #20
    roots, rocks, rhythm
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    Chris King.

  21. #21
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    I have been on a set of Hope Pro 2's if I remember right going on about 5 years now and I haven't had to touch them. I was about 300lbs when I started riding on them. FWIW I also have a set of Hadley's on another set of wheels. The Hadley's are really nice but for value its hard to beat the Hope's.

    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    I've been riding Hope Pro 2 Evos for 15 months. After 5 months (last August) I destroyed the alloy freehub body. Hope offered me a stainless body as a warranty replacement, and were great to deal with. Two months ago, I exploded two of the cartridge bearings. For reference, I'm 230 lbs, riding a Banshee Prime with a 2x10 drivetrain. I'd say they're reasonably strong hubs, affordable and easy to work on. But not bombproof, in my experience. I'm not bailing on Hopes, but I'm going back to DT Swiss for my next rear wheel.

  22. #22
    some know me as mongo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin_W View Post
    Other than a 21mm cone wrench and Park (P-1?) spanner tool ($8) no special tools are needed to work on a Hadley hub.
    What he said. I have run Hadleys for years and they are probably the most reliable, maintenance free hubs you will ever own. they seal their hubs really well. they use sealed bearings and then they use the seal as well on the axles and covers. they also use full compliment bearings.

    I have had two rear hubs over years and am still currently using one of them. both have been utterly reliable to be. Hadley on the older hubs used stainless steel free hub bodies and the current ones are titanium. I had the stainless one on my first hub and the cassette never dig in even the slightest bit, the new hub has a titanium freehub body and there is a slight bit of deformation but not even enough to hinder taking off the cassette.

    either way like the other guy said you only need a few tools to work on them. Hadley makes in house tools which are super nice but not needed.

    I have also owned a set of hopes pro2's on the past. they are a really good value but cassette dig in is a serious issue on them. they do make a steel freehub body but with that cost you are really close to the price of a Hadley and the hope pro2 is no longer light with the steel freehub body. the ones I owned just started to feel very slightly less rough after two years of good use.
    27.2 miles ridden (going to be a slow start because of work )

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  23. #23
    El CicloPath!!!!!!!
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    I would also take a look at Saint and Zee, especially if you want to run Thru bolt which will really stiffen things up.

  24. #24
    JDM
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    I really like my white industries mi6. I was going through shimano free hubs 2-3 times a year before. Now I'm 1.5 years into the whites with no grumbling from them.

  25. #25
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    Chris king, SS freehub body, Fun Botds for super secure attachment or thru axle if your frame supports it). Not cheap, but worth the money. I've used this on a tandem mtb, as well as my regular mtb, and never had an issue.
    Super quick engagement is a real plus, especially as you describe your riding. The engagement alone is reason enough to switch from XT.

    Regular maintenance is simple and no special tools required. Full overhaul needs special tools, but in ten years I've never had to do it, and all my hubs are running well.

    I would skip the DT 240s myself. I've had a ratchet fail on the trail. Easy to fix, but a near new hub spinning out? Forget it!
    --Reamer

    SC Tallboy LTc
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