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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by walangkatapat View Post
    LaceMine29 recommended a 36 spoke Hope hub built rear wheel for this over 240lb clyde.
    After breaking so many hubs, including one Sun Charger Pro, and one Sun Charger Expert, I got very leery about trusting the Sun Black Flag Pros on my R.I.P.-9 29er.

    I replaced my Black Flags, with a set of Hopes lace to Flow EX rims. This is also a better match, because I wanted to run the Ardent 2.4 tires, and a wider rim is better for tires this wide. I wanted the Ardent 2.4 tires, not just for the size, but because they have very thick sidewalls, which I hope will help my other problem which is ripping tire sidewalls.

    I like technical, rocky trails. Freewheels and tires take a beating on that terrain. Hopefully the Hopes hold up well.

  2. #52
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    Bang for buck (keeping price, service, and freehub body material in mind) look at White Industries M16

    -Steel axle
    -Steel pawls (3) and 24 point ratchet
    -Steel freehub body
    -5 bearings

    All for about $250 for the rear hub
    Former bicycle mechanic for 8 years, current soil scientist.

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  3. #53
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    I have 3.30 hubs from stand and hold me really we'll No complain so far,

  4. #54
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    Here is a pick

  5. #55
    Track Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    Bang for buck (keeping price, service, and freehub body material in mind) look at White Industries M16

    -Steel axle
    -Steel pawls (3) and 24 point ratchet
    -Steel freehub body
    -5 bearings

    All for about $250 for the rear hub
    I really appreciate the recommendation! Great choice!!!

    I'm on yet ANOTHER (different) wheelset now, and I am expected to ruin the rear wheel within the month.

    I'll get me one of these White Ind MI6 hubs on order ASAP for my wheelbuilder to put together.

    Thanks again!

    -Octane
    I get paid to ride shotgun.

  6. #56
    JDM
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    I'm on the third year with my white industries MI6 hubs after chewing through 2 to 3 shimano freehubs per year.

    In addition to the reliability, I like that the WIs are fairly quiet.

    Also, I called WI to order spare bearings, pawls, and springs, just to have rebuild parts on hand before I need them. The phone was immediately answered by a friendly, knowledgable human.

  7. #57
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    ... grew up with a Sachs 3-speed as a kid
    ... downhill Zee hubs should be good, right ? still brezel broken free hubs
    ... back to 3-speed hub ,put shimano sg-3d55 on fat bike
    ... added a 1/8 track chain
    ... happy as a kid

    good IGH , Rohloff 14-speed
    , sachs cargo P5, sturmey archer 3's, shimano nexus 3
    figured I'd share

  8. #58
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    I've just killed my second rear hub in 5 months. first it was a noname but today it was a XT 785. The cassette body and pawls first got loose and then stuck completely.
    And yes I am a clyde and I grind the bike uphill using just as much torque as pro riders, I just weigh 80% more than them.

    Since I live in Europe, I'll see if I have to save for a CK or someone told me to look at DT Swiss 540 Tandem if I can find it at a fair price.

  9. #59
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    hi gus69, my buddy riding a dt-swiss, crashed due hub failure. still not riding again.
    some say chris-king, or trails-hubs, for the cassette hubs.
    otherwise, single-speed. on friend on fat bike went rohloff, I'am riding 3-speed.
    all these are 210-260lbs single track mashers .

  10. #60
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    DT swiss 350 or 440 hub with 16T star ratchet. Bullet proof freehub mechanism.

  11. #61
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    dt 350 on my tallboy lt. holding up great. i weigh 300#.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gus69 View Post
    I've just killed my second rear hub in 5 months. first it was a noname but today it was a XT 785. The cassette body and pawls first got loose and then stuck completely.
    And yes I am a clyde and I grind the bike uphill using just as much torque as pro riders, I just weigh 80% more than them.

    Since I live in Europe, I'll see if I have to save for a CK or someone told me to look at DT Swiss 540 Tandem if I can find it at a fair price.
    XT M775 have been known to be troublesome, since the M785 is nothing more than the "10 speed" version I would expect the same. Look at the SLX M675 hubs. Stronger freehub body (32 poe) and steel axle (vs aluminum).

    Another option in Europe is HOPE, they are made in the UK and usually cheaper. So much that many US buyers buy directly from UK retailers. Add a steel freehub body for bomber durability.
    Former bicycle mechanic for 8 years, current soil scientist.

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  13. #63
    Oh, I've GOT bike money
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    I've been riding Hope Pro 2 Evos for 15 months. After 5 months (last August) I destroyed the alloy freehub body. Hope offered me a stainless body as a warranty replacement, and were great to deal with. Two months ago, I exploded two of the cartridge bearings. For reference, I'm 230 lbs, riding a Banshee Prime with a 2x10 drivetrain. I'd say they're reasonably strong hubs, affordable and easy to work on. But not bombproof, in my experience. I'm not bailing on Hopes, but I'm going back to DT Swiss for my next rear wheel.
    I'm 225, very strong, ride technical terrain and get some air now and then. I had a very similar experience with my Stan's 3.30 (non HD) hub. I distorted the aluminum freehub where the pawls meet the hub...apparently just applied too much torque to it. I'm not aware of shocking the drivetrain, but I'm sure it has happened in the heat of battle. Stans was great about it and sent me a steel freehub. I've been through 2 sets of bearings in the last 1.5 years. I went to 1x10 6 months ago and have not had any issues since. That may not be related, but the peak torque I can put to the hub is reduced.

    No complaints about the Stan's hubs as I do beat on them very hard and they are easy to service, but my next bike will have a 142 rear so I can use the Stan's HD hubs.

    My friend has Hopes and personally they are just to loud for me, but he doesn't mind.

    Octane, good luck in your search for a bomb-proof hub.

  14. #64
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    One very dead Shimano XT 785 freewheel. Broken into 12 pieces (that I found). 2 Pawls not broken, 1 partly broken, 2 completely missing.



    And plenty of balls and grease.
    From what I can see pawls have broken and got stuck so the complete body breaks into pieces....

  15. #65
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    I blew up at least 1 hub / year until Dave @ Dave's Speed Dream Wheels built me one with a hope hub. 5+ years, 1 rebuild to replace bearings, still going strong.
    If you say gullible slowly enough it sounds like "oranges"

  16. #66
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    im 300lbs, got a DT Swiss 240 and its still alive.

  17. #67
    WIGGLER
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    On my 36er I first used a deore hub the cassette driver lasted 7 miles twice and I switched to Industry9 no problems since and thats thousand's of miles ago now O and Ihit the scale arround the 300# mark. On my other set of wheels I used CK but I had to switch the driver about 1500 miles in.
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

  18. #68
    willtsmith_nwi
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    Gotta say, if you're a big clyde and ride rough, avoid the Hope rear hub.

    I was 300lbs. at the time, and I literally ripped the freehub off of the shell of a Hope hub pedaling up a short, sharp hill in granny gear.
    ...

    I am also a destroyer of rear hubs and considering a 12x142 build. I am curious if you were standing at the time or sitting.

    Anytime I've killed a Shimano freehub body ... I've been in the standing position (at least for the initial "event" ... they tend to limp on for a while after before they die). I have a personal policy against standing climbing in the granny. There is just too MUCH torque there.

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