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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by walangkatapat View Post
    LaceMine29 recommended a 36 spoke Hope hub built rear wheel for this over 240lb clyde.
    After breaking so many hubs, including one Sun Charger Pro, and one Sun Charger Expert, I got very leery about trusting the Sun Black Flag Pros on my R.I.P.-9 29er.

    I replaced my Black Flags, with a set of Hopes lace to Flow EX rims. This is also a better match, because I wanted to run the Ardent 2.4 tires, and a wider rim is better for tires this wide. I wanted the Ardent 2.4 tires, not just for the size, but because they have very thick sidewalls, which I hope will help my other problem which is ripping tire sidewalls.

    I like technical, rocky trails. Freewheels and tires take a beating on that terrain. Hopefully the Hopes hold up well.

  2. #52
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    Bang for buck (keeping price, service, and freehub body material in mind) look at White Industries M16

    -Steel axle
    -Steel pawls (3) and 24 point ratchet
    -Steel freehub body
    -5 bearings

    All for about $250 for the rear hub

  3. #53
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    I have 3.30 hubs from stand and hold me really we'll No complain so far,

  4. #54
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    Here is a pick

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    Bang for buck (keeping price, service, and freehub body material in mind) look at White Industries M16

    -Steel axle
    -Steel pawls (3) and 24 point ratchet
    -Steel freehub body
    -5 bearings

    All for about $250 for the rear hub
    I really appreciate the recommendation! Great choice!!!

    I'm on yet ANOTHER (different) wheelset now, and I am expected to ruin the rear wheel within the month.

    I'll get me one of these White Ind MI6 hubs on order ASAP for my wheelbuilder to put together.

    Thanks again!

    -Octane
    I get paid to ride shotgun.

  6. #56
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    I need a Clyde-proof rear hub/freewheel!

    I'm on the third year with my white industries MI6 hubs after chewing through 2 to 3 shimano freehubs per year.

    In addition to the reliability, I like that the WIs are fairly quiet.

    Also, I called WI to order spare bearings, pawls, and springs, just to have rebuild parts on hand before I need them. The phone was immediately answered by a friendly, knowledgable human.

  7. #57
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    ... grew up with a Sachs 3-speed as a kid
    ... downhill Zee hubs should be good, right ? still brezel broken free hubs
    ... back to 3-speed hub ,put shimano sg-3d55 on fat bike
    ... added a 1/8 track chain
    ... happy as a kid

    good IGH , Rohloff 14-speed
    , sachs cargo P5, sturmey archer 3's, shimano nexus 3
    figured I'd share

  8. #58
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    I've just killed my second rear hub in 5 months. first it was a noname but today it was a XT 785. The cassette body and pawls first got loose and then stuck completely.
    And yes I am a clyde and I grind the bike uphill using just as much torque as pro riders, I just weigh 80% more than them.

    Since I live in Europe, I'll see if I have to save for a CK or someone told me to look at DT Swiss 540 Tandem if I can find it at a fair price.

  9. #59
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    hi gus69, my buddy riding a dt-swiss, crashed due hub failure. still not riding again.
    some say chris-king, or trails-hubs, for the cassette hubs.
    otherwise, single-speed. on friend on fat bike went rohloff, I'am riding 3-speed.
    all these are 210-260lbs single track mashers .

  10. #60
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    DT swiss 350 or 440 hub with 16T star ratchet. Bullet proof freehub mechanism.

  11. #61
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    dt 350 on my tallboy lt. holding up great. i weigh 300#.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gus69 View Post
    I've just killed my second rear hub in 5 months. first it was a noname but today it was a XT 785. The cassette body and pawls first got loose and then stuck completely.
    And yes I am a clyde and I grind the bike uphill using just as much torque as pro riders, I just weigh 80% more than them.

    Since I live in Europe, I'll see if I have to save for a CK or someone told me to look at DT Swiss 540 Tandem if I can find it at a fair price.
    XT M775 have been known to be troublesome, since the M785 is nothing more than the "10 speed" version I would expect the same. Look at the SLX M675 hubs. Stronger freehub body (32 poe) and steel axle (vs aluminum).

    Another option in Europe is HOPE, they are made in the UK and usually cheaper. So much that many US buyers buy directly from UK retailers. Add a steel freehub body for bomber durability.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    I've been riding Hope Pro 2 Evos for 15 months. After 5 months (last August) I destroyed the alloy freehub body. Hope offered me a stainless body as a warranty replacement, and were great to deal with. Two months ago, I exploded two of the cartridge bearings. For reference, I'm 230 lbs, riding a Banshee Prime with a 2x10 drivetrain. I'd say they're reasonably strong hubs, affordable and easy to work on. But not bombproof, in my experience. I'm not bailing on Hopes, but I'm going back to DT Swiss for my next rear wheel.
    I'm 225, very strong, ride technical terrain and get some air now and then. I had a very similar experience with my Stan's 3.30 (non HD) hub. I distorted the aluminum freehub where the pawls meet the hub...apparently just applied too much torque to it. I'm not aware of shocking the drivetrain, but I'm sure it has happened in the heat of battle. Stans was great about it and sent me a steel freehub. I've been through 2 sets of bearings in the last 1.5 years. I went to 1x10 6 months ago and have not had any issues since. That may not be related, but the peak torque I can put to the hub is reduced.

    No complaints about the Stan's hubs as I do beat on them very hard and they are easy to service, but my next bike will have a 142 rear so I can use the Stan's HD hubs.

    My friend has Hopes and personally they are just to loud for me, but he doesn't mind.

    Octane, good luck in your search for a bomb-proof hub.

  14. #64
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    One very dead Shimano XT 785 freewheel. Broken into 12 pieces (that I found). 2 Pawls not broken, 1 partly broken, 2 completely missing.



    And plenty of balls and grease.
    From what I can see pawls have broken and got stuck so the complete body breaks into pieces....

  15. #65
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    I blew up at least 1 hub / year until Dave @ Dave's Speed Dream Wheels built me one with a hope hub. 5+ years, 1 rebuild to replace bearings, still going strong.
    If you say gullible slowly enough it sounds like "oranges"

  16. #66
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    im 300lbs, got a DT Swiss 240 and its still alive.

  17. #67
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    On my 36er I first used a deore hub the cassette driver lasted 7 miles twice and I switched to Industry9 no problems since and thats thousand's of miles ago now O and Ihit the scale arround the 300# mark. On my other set of wheels I used CK but I had to switch the driver about 1500 miles in.
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

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  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    Gotta say, if you're a big clyde and ride rough, avoid the Hope rear hub.

    I was 300lbs. at the time, and I literally ripped the freehub off of the shell of a Hope hub pedaling up a short, sharp hill in granny gear.
    ...

    I am also a destroyer of rear hubs and considering a 12x142 build. I am curious if you were standing at the time or sitting.

    Anytime I've killed a Shimano freehub body ... I've been in the standing position (at least for the initial "event" ... they tend to limp on for a while after before they die). I have a personal policy against standing climbing in the granny. There is just too MUCH torque there.

  19. #69
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    I'm starting to wonder about the CK ISO's at this point. I have two CK wheel sets on two different bikes, one XC and another AM. I'm 222 standing in the shower and a fairly fast Clyde at that. I've had engagement issues on both of the CK's and they seem to love to skip on me at sub 50 degree temps more so then when warm. Already changed out the bearings in one of my CK's and still had it skipping on me today during my first two climbs. I run a 36th 1x10 with oneUp 40th conversion for my XT cassette which according to one old timer xc guy today looked at me and said "good for you big guy" when he saw the 36th up front haha I'm going to investigate a little further but I'm starting to think maybe giving an I9 hub a shot.
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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gus69 View Post
    I've just killed my second rear hub in 5 months. first it was a noname but today it was a XT 785. The cassette body and pawls first got loose and then stuck completely.
    And yes I am a clyde and I grind the bike uphill using just as much torque as pro riders, I just weigh 80% more than them.

    Since I live in Europe, I'll see if I have to save for a CK or someone told me to look at DT Swiss 540 Tandem if I can find it at a fair price.
    yo whut up ya,ll ..............not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but im usung a Hadley hub (ON ORGNAIL STAN FLOWS W/DT SPOKES ), DONT KNOW A WHOLE LOT ABOUT THIS MTB THANG BUT IM 335LB 6'5.5 RIDING A CARBON HT 29ER AND AFTER 2 RIDES SO FAR THIS THING IS SWEEEEEET ( OH I GOT IT USED ABOUT 400MILES GUY SAID), IT SOUNDS AWESOME TO ! ALL THO NOT AS LOUD AS SOME OTHER , I9, CK, ETC
    Ride hard everytime....or take up hiking...........lol

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by DABIGSEAT View Post
    yo whut up ya,ll ..............not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but im usung a Hadley hub (ON ORGNAIL STAN FLOWS W/DT SPOKES ), DONT KNOW A WHOLE LOT ABOUT THIS MTB THANG BUT IM 335LB 6'5.5 RIDING A CARBON HT 29ER AND AFTER 2 RIDES SO FAR THIS THING IS SWEEEEEET ( OH I GOT IT USED ABOUT 400MILES GUY SAID), IT SOUNDS AWESOME TO ! ALL THO NOT AS LOUD AS SOME OTHER , I9, CK, ETC
    Hope your Carbon HT frame is A LOT tougher then the two I had,......cracked both of them under normal XC pedaling and I'm only 235ish geared up
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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by some dude View Post
    I've had engagement issues on both of the CK's and they seem to love to skip on me at sub 50 degree temps more so then when warm. Already changed out the bearing in one of my CK's and still had it skipping on me today during my first two climbs. I run a 36th 1x10 with oneUp 40th conversion for my XT .

    3 thoughts ...
    1) once CK hubs engage ... they cannot slip.
    2) after break in ... you need to adjust the hub preload. Failure to do so can cause prevent the hubs from engaging properly.
    3) the CK manual specifically addresses cold weather maintenance. One needs to add a few drops of Tri Flow to keep their lube from jelling or freezing.

    I ride at 340#. I've had the hub briefly "skip" a few times. Then I adjusted the preload and it didn't happen again.

  23. #73
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    already adjusted the pre-load a couple of times on both sets of CK Hubs and serviced them with fresh grease by LBS who's a CK snob/freak.
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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by some dude View Post
    already adjusted the pre-load a couple of times on both sets of CK Hubs and serviced them with fresh grease by LBS who's a CK snob/freak.
    Fresh grease or not, the fact that you say it gets worse in the cooler temps leads me to believe the grease is a little too viscous. Though I don't have CK hubs, I've had similar problems with other freehubs and their ratcheting pawls that was resolved with a shot of penetrating lube spray then working the freehub by hand till the ratcheting mechanism consistently hooked up. Certainly wouldn't be a hub bearing problem.

  25. #75
    Jon
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    Profile hubs take a huge beating, and are available in every configuration possible except fat. I beat the crap out of mine and never broke anything and when I say beat them I mean jumping on curbs with pegs and slamming into walls.

  26. #76
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    Not knowing how many miles on your CK's I would say the the driver is worn and is keeping the ratchetening mechanism from ingaging it's aluminum and the tapered splines wear. They offer a driver made of stainless and say it's for tandems or extreme use.
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

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  27. #77
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    can't be more then 600 miles on either pair and both have exhibited same issues breaking in and with the hub engagement. The newest rear hub bought in July was the one that needed new freewheel rollers already and is still acting up. I thought it might be chain hop but chain and cassette are only maybe 300 miles and I'm a fair weather (dry) rider with good maintenance. I then thought maybe it was the 16tooth OneUp sprocket that was the culprit, but it did it in the 19 tooth as well.
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  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj View Post
    Shimano freehubs have failed on me in the middle of a steep climb more than once. Not from shock load, just mashing down on the pedals. I'm not someone to slam into my drivetrain, and am considered to be a smooth rider, and not abusive unless you consider hauling my oversize carcass around to be abusive.

    You are correct about this: " identify what it is you do when riding (shock load?) and stop doing it."

    I figured out what it was that I need to stop doing when riding: Expecting Shimano freehubs to last while I ride up a steep hill.
    I've killed older style Shimano Freehubs just spinning in lower gears. Got a Chris King .. so far, so good.

  29. #79
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    I put a Dt Swiss 340 with a steel free hub body on my bike. No problems at all.

  30. #80
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    Add Novatec to the list of non-clyde-certified. Tore the guts out of the freehub on my Lurch fatbike last week.

  31. #81
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    do you have to somehow specify 'steel free hub body' when you order/buy the hub, or some some come with the steel free hub body, and others simply don't? in other words, is a steel free hub body a typical option available with hubs, or is it only a part of some hubs
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  32. #82
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    Late to the party, but want input on shimano hubs. It seems the old 529 hubs are pretty much all gone, and the 629 hubs are getting hard to find. I'm looking at the current SLXs hub though. I like the XT, but not sure about the alloy axle and smaller bearings. I'd probably be OK with the deore 525 hub, but it has jack POE. I'm hoping the current SLX hubs have decent POE and slightly better freehub like the XT, but the steel axle of the 525. Also considered the SRAM X7 hub because of the cartridge bearings, but I hear they're not that much better for clyde duty.

    I'm still considering the DT swiss 350, but after the cost of the steel freehub body or needing to buy new cassettes, it's hard to justify the cost when I haven't busted a formula freehub.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  33. #83
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    If one is patient and persistent, one can find high POE, top-shelf hubs at affordable prices.... Good, strong hubs are the cost of being a Clyde rider. I recently bought a new Hadley for $265 and a used Chris King for $160. Both will last me a long time, barring disaster. It is the price I WANT to pay for that reliability and performance.

    I haven't busted a Shimano yet, at 340 pounds, but the higher POE is worth it in the higher end hubs...

    Rmpl

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Late to the party, but want input on shimano hubs. It seems the old 529 hubs are pretty much all gone, and the 629 hubs are getting hard to find. I'm looking at the current SLXs hub though. I like the XT, but not sure about the alloy axle and smaller bearings. I'd probably be OK with the deore 525 hub, but it has jack POE. I'm hoping the current SLX hubs have decent POE and slightly better freehub like the XT, but the steel axle of the 525. Also considered the SRAM X7 hub because of the cartridge bearings, but I hear they're not that much better for clyde duty.

    I'm still considering the DT swiss 350, but after the cost of the steel freehub body or needing to buy new cassettes, it's hard to justify the cost when I haven't busted a formula freehub.
    Go 350, you wont regret it. The Shimano XT 10 speed cassettes can be had for around $50, they aren't that much more expensive than the cheapies.

  35. #85
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    I keep going back to it. I like the hub design, easy maintenance, cartridge bearings, swappable end caps, weight. It just costs a lot, and I'm married. Maybe wait for it to be a "Christmas Present" and hope I can find a good one on sale. Grab it and some WTB i29 asyms with butted DT spokes.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rmplstlskn View Post
    Good, strong hubs are the cost of being a Clyde rider.
    Rmpl
    That sums it up.

    Don't buy a shimano rear hub because you are just throwing your money away.
    Your wife won't like hearing you blew up your rear wheel and you need a new.

  37. #87
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    I went through three rear hubs on my Stan's. The second two were their HD (heavy duty) hubs. Shredded an axle too.

    I went to DT Swiss too and haven't had any problems. The Stan's were too flexy too, so I upgraded the wheels with the new hubs. Higher price point than the OP suggested, but much better.

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