Wait... I'm lost. Did you buy that Breezer?
i have more than you.
...because i have me and you.
Ya, fork got sniped :/
Good news is, I have decided on what fork I want! After lots of research, I am going to keep scouring with hawk eyes for a Manitou Minute Pro for the ~$250 or less range. Based on current prices, I know I can find it for that if I have patience and diligence in checking Stiff coils, rock solid, nothing but good things from everything I have read about it!
Alright, for those who like to look at numbers, I used the little fit chart on Competitive Cyclist to help me with this. I am going for the 'All Mountain' fit, which is a bit smaller, focus on performance on downhill and control a bit more over good climbing and technical. Sounds like how I ride! This is pretty geeky number stuff, so just a warning now
Here is the ranges it recommends for me:
Standover: 26.8 - 27.3in, 680 - 695mm
Virtual Top Tube Length: 21.4 - 21.8in, ~544 - 554mm
Stem Length: 57 - 81mm
BB Saddle Position: 56 - 62in, 1422 - 1575mm
Saddle - handlebar: 455 - 473mm
And, here are dimensions of my frame, for Google, since I had trouble finding these and had to measure (also still not 100% sure the 2006 is the year I have, but it is +/- 1 year of that):
2006? Haro V2, 14" women's? frame:
C-T seat tube length: 14in, 360mm
Virtual Top Tube length: 20in, 510mm
Headtube length: 110mm
So! Plugging these into my results, it looks like the Top Tube is a bit small for me. I assume I can correct this with a longer stem, correct? Looks like I need another 36mm. Add that to minimum stem length of 57mm, and I need a 110mm stem? Is this correct, or does it not work like this? Something else I should adjust? Setback seatpost, perhaps? Or, gain that inch and a half by pushing the saddle back on the rails? I also have doubts about these measurements, but I measured it three times and looked up where to measure. I found specs for Haro's current offerings, and the geometry on THOSE 14" frames have top tubes within the range of what the calculator said I needed.
As a side note, I seem to have really short legs. I compared the numbers to other sizing charts, and found that the standover I need is within the XS range, while the top tube is a size bigger. So that may account for why there is a discrepancy in my frame size. The standover is right for me, but the top tube is too small. I guess I can only have one or the other? Looking at road bikes, I oddly found the opposite. The correct seat tube size had way too long of top tubes compared to the numbers I need from the calculator.
I don't mean to stress too much on numbers, but I really want to get a ballpark for some of the more fit-specific components, such as the stem and seatpost. I am still trying to figure out how to plug all this info in to get the right stuff. How do you figure the minimum length of seatpost you need, for example? Because I see used thudbusters and Thomson seatposts floating around for half off retail, but many times they have been cut or are shorter. The biggest bummer would be to grab one that is too short! Would measuring how much I use on my current ride help? It can't be more than like 5-6 inches on the 16" frame, by the way
Also, I am scouring for a Road bike. Definitely want to buy this one complete.
Now, I was planning on getting a used one at the LBS. I poked around, asked about prices, and they were asking $650 for a used 2011 Fuji Newest 1.0. A bit high, imho, for something that is used, two years old, and pretty basic components. Plus, I looked at the geometry for Fuji, and it is a bad match according to the fitting I did from Competitive Cyclist.
I basically just took the range for the two least aggressive positions to get these numbers for road bikes:
Seat Tube Range (c-t) 47.5 - 49cm
Top Tube 50.1 - 50.5cm
Stem 8.6 - 10.3cm
Now, what I have found is the top tube will be a bit long for me on all non women specific frames. For most frames, it is only around 10-15mm too big, which seems quite acceptable. I looked up a few bikes online, and have narrowed it down to three:
Famous Maker Road Bike with Apex - Overweight Code G Restricted
Would have pulled the trigger on this with my paycheck today if it was 30 speed and not 20 :/ I am afraid I will still need granny gear until I am in better shape, and the middle gear being so much bigger than what I am used to is quite intimidating...
Road Bikes, Roadbikes - 2013 Mercier Aquila AL
Save up to 60% off new Road Bikes - Gravity Liberty 3 | Save up to 60% off new road bikes
Does the $100 make any difference between these two? Same components, both have carbon forks, same gearing... can't find any info on the budget rims, which is a pretty major concern for me due to my size. If both are crap, I would rather pocket the extra $100 to apply towards better rims/ new ones when I inevitably mess them up
I could wait another 4 months for the LBS to get some more used stock... but I am REALLY chomping at the bit here! I don't really want to wait, especially if I am just waiting to get the same thing I can get now, but new, with better components, and for the same price! Riding my steel full knobs to work is a drag (literally!) and I would like something I can spin around on at night for a good workout. Small hills and long, short grades just annihilate me on the road, and it makes cruising no fun unless there is dirt and rocks to hop around on
I have let the pressure go down on my MTB tires, so I am getting better grip on the kitty litter at the cost of more drag on my commute, and thus more cinder block dragging.. ('better' grip is a relative term if you asked me last week when I had a mouthful of the stuff after washing out in it )
Xmas was good to me!
I got the last of the money I needed to finish the build I need a few bucks out of pocket to cover any LBS charges for assembly, and I needed to throw an extra 100 or so in out of pocket for taxes and shipping on a few things. But, otherwise, everything is on it's way! Should I put together what I can to reduce the price I am charged at the LBS? Will it do any good? The wheels need to be trued there for sure, and I don't have any special tools for BB, headset, etc.
Here is my build. Total out of pocket for parts plus tax and shipping is around $1350 (includes $50 I set aside for tires). I spent much more than planned, but I ended up with a much better bike for it. I am quite happy
Half the build I have been slowly buying, and I just placed a bunch of orders tonight to finish it. One last group of orders need to be put through once I get a price match from them on the cassette. Also watching ebay for a part in that order in hopes I can save a few more bucks!
Haro V2 frame ($50)
Shimano Deore XT Wheelset ($120)
SRAM X9 twist shifters ($40)
SRAM X9 Rear Derailleur ($45)
SRAM PG950 cassette ($23)
KMC X9 chain ($15)
Shimano SLX M660 crankset ($90)
Shimano SLX Front Derailleur ($30)
Shimano SLX hydro brakes (one is M660, the other is M675, both are the finned Ice Tech versions) ($90 each)
Shimano RT75 and RT79 rotors, 180mm rear, 203mm front (I believe the 203mm is an Ice Tech rotor, the 180 is a bolt on but was cheap)($15 and $25)
Adapters for upgraded rotors (the specs I found said the fork is a 74mm, so I hopefully got the right ones...)($10 each)
Manitou Minute Pro Fork ($310)
Cane Creek S-1 headset ($25)
Race Face Deus flat handlebars, 600mm ($20)
Race Face Evolve stem, 70mm ($20)
Thomson Elite seatpost (need to decide on a seat clamp, just hoping to snag something cheap on ebay) ($70)
Wellgo WPD 95B pedals with Sette Enduro shoes ($55)
(need to grab a saddle from the LBS so I can return it if I hate it)
(haven't grabbed tires yet, still trying to decide on what to get)($50)
The only thing I have a question on is the spring for the Manitou Minute. I want to put a firm one in, but all google gives me is a spring for the 29r version/ Tower. Is it the same spring? I ordered the fork from Price Point, and they list the stock spring as a 'medium', though I have read other reviews that say they got a 'firm'. I will wait to order the spring to see what I get, but I asked Price Point to send one with a Firm in it if they have them.
There will be pics in a month or so! Need time to get it to the LBS, and work season is going to get crazy before I can finish. I am really stoked about this build I think I got a really solid bike here that will do me very nicely for many years! I upgraded the important Clyde parts, saved a bit on everything else by shopping around for killer deals. I will add some better grips, tubeless, and a nice saddle later on once I have some time on this beast
Sounds like it's going to be a good bike. Congrats on wrapping up your parts.
Take a look at the Specialized Myka HT sure you may have to save some more money but you can get you a great woman's specific bike for a decent price. They offer the bike in 26" and 29".
Specialized Bicycle Components
Specialized Bicycle Components
Granted the 26" is the low end of the models but for more money you can get the same bike with disc's. I have riding with a female rider that was on one of these in full suspension and it worked great for her, she wasn't a very tall rider either and I believe she was riding a 15" frame. I posted the hardtails because of what you said as far as the money issue.
The tower pro and minute pro use the same spring. How much do you weigh (i havent' read the entire thread but i keep seeing references to Fat Pony, I have no idea how much a fat pony weighs;-)
Originally Posted by Bikemaya
I'm 250 and have the tower pro with the new xx clydesdale spring. if you are around 200lbs you certainly should probably go with the x firm. if you are above 220, you should be looking at getting that xx spring. it makes a huge difference.
My last bit of advice to you is that I really hope you take this thing off road, i know you mentioned wanting it to commute 2 miles to work but this is way too much bike for that, you could have gotten an excellent entry level flat bar road bike for commuting that will be much faster. my gf is 5'3" and rides this bikes direct bike Road Bikes - Dawes Lightning DLX its a solid bike, we upgraded a few parts on it like the crank and i put flat bars on it for her which worked perfect because I wanted to put drops on my original flat bar bike.
couple of other thoughts for you, tires could very well run you more than $50 but it's possible they wont. also, Thomson seatpost is probably overkill. don't get me wrong, they are great and sort of the industry standard but again, it doesn't sound like you are going to be starting out much more as a recreational rider. As i've read through more of your thread, I see that you have greatly expanded your budget from where you were starting at but honestly, you can get a perfectly good seatpost for $20 Also, if you didn't buy your fork yet, I think you are dramatically overspending there. It is an excellent fork but are you truly going to be doing serious XC MTB riding? You could save a bundle with a ridgid fork
Thanks! I will look around for the XX spring then. May have to go through the LBS, because I am having a hell of a time finding one online (ebay has them, but no indication of type)
This bike is just for the trail. I currently take my full rigid offroad as much as I can, and I know I hit the limitations of it a month ago. Currently, I hit the trails on every day off I can, so anywhere from 20-100 miles a week, depending on the week. The miles I get on the trails increase every month as I get in better shape! I have been riding a lot since the last update
Mostly, the braking power on my cheap bike is like trying to stop a semi with brakes from a corolla. The tires are also cheap and dumb, but they do prevent me from doing stupid stuff I rode on a cheap fork before, and I hated it. I would have preferred a rigid fork over that POS. My confidence in the cheap rigid bike I ride is very, very low, but it has surprised me with how well it has held up. Nothing catastrophic *yet*!
I am going to get slicks for my rigid I am currently riding and make that a commuter. The next bike I get will be a road bike that I can take on long rides and use as a commuter.
I also scored the Thomson used for $25 on ebay
It is a lot of bike, but I don't want a shitty bike to be an excuse to not ride. I get bored of the same stuff easily, so the same trail that is the only thing my bike can handle will literally make me uninterested in the sport. This bike will not hold me back, and when I am ready for the tougher stuff I will have a reliable machine ready for me. I am already getting bored of my trails, and I have tried new stuff with varied success. Most of it comes down to things being too steep and I don't have enough brake to keep things in control, and other times too many rocks have made things hairy, though I have gotten pretty decent on those sections taking it nice and slow. I don't like technical as much as I like speed, so picking my way through stuff all the time isn't as much fun as riding fast over most stuff.
I am the kind of person who doesn't like to get cheap dollar store junk to 'save some money'. I prefer to take my time to shop smart and get high quality purchases that will last and give me great results. This tactic has not served me wrong so far! I spend good money on my computer too, even though I am not a 'hardcore gamer'. But, my computer runs flawlessly, and still at the top of the line 2 years in. It will not need replacing for at least another 4. People who get cheap ones replace them every 2-3 years after at least one or 2 years of constant cursing at the POS. I can play any game I want without looking once at requirements, and they all run flawlessly on high settings. Same thing with a bike. Something that will last for years with basic maintenance, and will handle whatever I throw at it without want for more. Really, forks go over $1000. $300 is the point where you just barely get out of suntours and basic air with no adjustment. Large riders need better forks, cheap ones just don't have the adjustability we need. I would destroy a cheap one! A ton of time and research went into the fork choice. A similar fork from Fox or RockShox would have easily cost over $600. I didn't spend THAT much. I think I did pretty damn well choosing one that fits my needs for a great price!
Sure, I could have spent 1/3 of the money. I would have gotten 1/10 of the bike, and had constant issues with it and be looking to replace parts constantly. Whatever I saved I would have spent tenfold on constant frustration with my bike and eventually spent the money I 'saved' to get a big kid's bike anyways.
I will get a cheaper road bike, however Bikes direct bikes have the ones I am looking at, but I also have to consider the costs for the LBS to assemble them. I could do it myself, but I don't know how to true wheels, and I know that is VITAL for me as a large rider to prevent me from destroying them. Also, the cost of assembly is less than a hospital bill because I did something wrong
I think you have spent well. I have done almost an identical build myself as my entry into MTB. My only concern was that for a first bike and not knowing if you would stick with it that you were overspending. I wasn't aware that you already had another bike and had been doing some riding already. Sounds like you've got this build dialed in.
regarding the fork, I keep thinking that you are building a 29er but it's actually a 26er correct? I wasthinking that the minute pro was an older fork but I forgot, it's the same as the tower pro, it's just the minute is for 26" tower for 29. I do agree, for the quality of fork, you would be paying $500 + vs $300ish for the manitou.
Regarding bikes direct bikes, an LBS should only charge you $50-$100 to put it together. I would advise that you put it together yourself and only have them give the wheels a once over for you after you ride it a few times. What I have found is that some LBS can be very lazy about putting together internet bikes even if they are charging for the service. Those of us with experience know that with a BD bike it's a good idea to take most of it apart and regrease everything (though my bd bike was actually excellent, but it was a $1900 race bike with mavic ksyrium wheels so those are definately all good out of the gate) but a lot of the time these lbs simply assemble and tweak deraileurs, they don't go the extra mile to check everything the way they do when you are buying a new bike from them. The skills you will learn building it yourself are good to have although there is a tool cost that could make it prohibitive. I'm not sure where you live but if there are any cycling clubs to get active with you most certainly will have fellow members that could help you out.
you should post up a few pics of the bike you are riding now. i'm curious to see it, I can't believe that there isn't some solution to your braking issues you describe
BikePedia - 1996 Diamondback Outlook Complete Bicycle
It is pretty much stock, the 16" WSD version (so it has the sloped top tube). It is too big for me, but I manage. I put some new brakes on (Shimano Alivos, I believe) because the pads were petrified and fused into the mechanisms, so I couldn't change them. I put a more comfortable saddle on, and some cheap ergo grips. Added some lights and a rack since I commute with it, and some bags to basically carry repair stuff. I need to constantly adjust the seat clamp because I stripped it a month in, raise the post every once in a while when it slips, and adjust my derailleurs when it slips too far out of alignment (I was able to adjust it so I get two of the three front gears, but I can't get all three no matter how I tweak it). Even though things slip and don't work perfect, the damn thing won't BREAK!
My LBS dilemma is that I have one shop I know will do a good job, but they most likely will charge me close to $300. I have had nothing but bad experiences from another one, but they will do it for 50-100. I kinda gotta suck it up if I want it done right, and I know the expensive place will do it right. Not many options around here either. The other shops turned their noses up at me when I asked about mountain bikes, since most people road bike here.
Ya, this is a 26er. I will give a 29er a ride at some point, but I need to get a feel for a quality hardtail 26er first, I think. I am not riding too much variety yet, so this is the most versatile option that will do just fine anywhere, and won't be too heavy (I am thinking I will be coming in right around 30 lbs, I will weigh it). Stuff like fat bikes are cool and fun, but very specific. The bug hasn't bitten THAT hard yet! I need to get a road bike before I consider second, third, and fourth mountain bikes
I also need to get a rack for the garage. Stable is filling up!
no way any lbs should be charging you $300 to put a bike together. that is insane. you def need to make cycing friends who have tools and can help you out.
Did you purchase assembled wheels or is he building your wheels from scratch?
she got a deal on them with the frame. Rhyno lite rims with xt hubs I believe for $120 for the set. not a bad deal at all!
I purchased the preassembled wheelset from him.
I am speculating on price based on some numbers he threw around for services last time we spoke. I need to give him a call to get a firm price and see if I can do anything here to keep it under $100. Last time we spoke, he said he could do a full component swap (take parts off one bike and put on a bare frame) for $100, and he charges I think $65 for tuneups. Both of those prices are around 20-30% higher than the shitty LBS prices. I would like him to set me up with tubeless too, if he can do it cheap. Going to ask him about that too. I know the kit alone costs $70 for my rims (Rhyno Lites, needs a conversion kit because they aren't tubeless ready) so if he is willing to do it for $80, I will bite. One big advantage about the Hans Dampf is everyone says they are super easy to convert to tubeless. Might need to wait on that, some checks for work I have done have not some in yet, and I haven't been getting as many hours early in season as I had hoped :/
Tubeless conversion is pretty easy, but for my personal preference I like tubeless specific wheels from the get go for people our weight. I don't want to risk tire blowing off the bead.
I'm from the school that tuning the bike is part of the assembly process so when he says $100 to do a component swap that should include the tuning. Also, seems like you are buying a lot of new components so hes not even going to be taking much off the old bike right?
Nothing is coming off the old bike, the whole thing is new!
Def shouldn't be charging you more than 100 im not a pro mechanic but if you gave me a bunch of loose parts i could build it in 2 hours max probably an hour. Regarding tubeless, i advise you to do it yourself so you have a full understanding how it works. Failures happen with tubeless and you should be comfortable with swapping in a tube and then knowing how to remount later at home if needed
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Alright! Some updates on the build progress!
Further research, and I found that getting a 9mm through axle for a nice fork like I have would be a complete waste. So, I upgraded it to the 20mm version for another $50, which also meant I needed a new hub to replace the XT 9mm on the wheelset.
I found a NOS GT Hadley on Ebay for $50, which seemed like a screaming deal, and I jumped on it. I knew it was 4-bolt when I got it, but a quick google found lots of 4-bolt rotors around, so I wasn't worried. The spoke length it needed was also only 1mm off from what the wheelset was laced with, so everything could be reused. Seemed to be a good plan.
Then I went to the task of buying the rotor. I found there were THREE different standards floating around for 4-bolt, and finding BCDs for all of them was a nightmare. It took me WEEKS to track down the numbers. Here is what I found:
Formula: 44mm or 45mm (don't remember)
I measured my GT Hadley hub again, and again, and again, thinking I must be measuring something wrong to not be coming up with any of those BCDs. I consulted multiple guides to confirm I was using the right formulas and measuring in the right places. I was. I figured it was just me and it must be Rohloff, so I ordered one. There was stupidity with the shipping, and I cancelled the order a day later to reset the order. It was a good thing too...
Now it had been 3 weeks, and I was getting REALLY anxious about this. I started to ask around, and no one had answers for me. GT told me to ask my LBS (HA), and most shops shrugged their shoulders and said they didn't know. Then I found this. Originally, where it says 'pitch', it was listed as '44mm'. I knew that wasn't what MY GT Hadley had, so I emailed them. It was a mistranslation, I was told, and it was fixed the next day. So, right there is my answer. This old 4-bolt GT Hadley hub has a BCD/ pitch of 70mm. It does NOT fit any standard readily available, and ONLY fits a specific GT standard. That seller is the only one I found who carries the rotor. I got a quote for 183mm and 203mm, and after shipping, I would be spending more on the rotor than I did on the hub. So much for saving money. I will try to relist it on ebay and get back what I spent. I am pretty miffed about it.
While contemplating how to proceed, Speedgoat has been running a huge clearance sale. There, in the clearance sale, was a Hope 2 Evo front hub. Blue, 20mm/ 110mm. 36h, however, which would mean new rims. $43 plus shipping. Wow. I poked around and looked at other options. An XT 20mm front hub, which would mean a straight swap on the wheelset without upgrading or downgrading, was $60. I already have an extra centerlock rotor lying around too, so it seemed to be the cheapest option. Then I plugged it into the calculator. The spokes are off by a few mm, so I would have to get new spokes too. Well, ****. If I have to get spokes anyways, I guess I might as well upgrade to the Hope, eh? a 36h Rhynolite rim can be had for $20, and a 6-bolt rotor for $10. $13 extra to upgrade. Seems like a good deal
I also changed the pedals, as Price Point stopped running their combo with the Sette Enduro shoes and Wellgo pedals for $55. I got some Wellgo MG-1's instead, will get shoes later. Got a good price on a Salsa seatpost clamp. Due to the amount of praise from other Clydes, I am trying out a WTB Pure V Race for the saddle. Found the Thompson Elite seatpost used on Ebay for $45 or so, it's in great shape. ESI Chunky grips get a lot of props around here, and are cheap, so I grabbed some of those. I am running the Hans Dampfs with tubes for now, will consider tubeless down the road
I have what I can get together right now on the frame. I am waiting on the stuff to build the front wheel (hub, rim, spokes, and rotor), and some derailleur housing. Oh, also some tubes for the smaller tires I ordered for my commuter.
I will ride the Manitou Minute Pro fork right now with the factory spring and see if I need to change it, but I ordered an extra-firm to swap if I don't like it. Also have some nice thick suspension oil to help firm it up as well. I am not confident enough to open up the fork yet, and am still trying to get my head around the adjustments! I have never ridden good suspension before, so I don't have much of a baseline. I suppose I will set everything to factory recommendations and go from there
I also ended up with some unintentional bling I ordered an SLX front derailleur, paid SLX price (like $25-$30), the package it came in SAID SLX, and when I opened it up to install, inside was an XTR SWEET! It looks all blingy
A shout out to all that have helped me! Everyone in this thread, thank you Mr. Magura has been helping behind the scenes as well, I will post a picture of the brake mod he helped me with once I get my cockpit set up. Tree Fort Bikes has earned my business again and again with their fantastic prices, selection, and customer service. Outside Outfitters hooked me up with the fork, and tracked down the spring for me, both on special order! They also worked with me on my odd form of payment (a bunch of Visa gift cards) and everything went smooth! Really great customer service, kept communication up with me the entire time! Brake-stuff.de, thanks for finally putting my hub questions to rest. Give all those stores your love, guys. They deserve it!
I can't wait to post pictures of this build. Rounding the corner on it, and I am DYING to ride it!