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  1. #1
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    Clydesdale approved carbon bars?

    I moved my parts over from an XC bike to a Stumpjumper Evo frame and want some wider bars to fit the more trail/AM environment I'm riding in.

    I'm thinking 60-70mm stem and carbon bars in the 700-750mm range.

    Any suggestions? Easton? Enve? Are my size choices bad?
    Last edited by Alias530; 01-26-2014 at 06:21 PM.

  2. #2
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    Clydesdale approved carbon bars?



    I bought these bars a few weeks ago and they're very comfortable. And very cool looking!!!


    Bikes I currently have. 2014 Trek Fuel EX 8 29er. 2013 Trek Mamba 29er.

  3. #3
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    Easton Haven product is totally Clyde compliant. As long as you stay away from the weight weenie product you should be alright.

  4. #4
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    Clydesdale approved carbon bars?

    Any carbon bar 730mm+ will be fine.

    I had the whiskey carbon bars. I preferred more rise. Went to diety carbon bars. Either are great.

  5. #5
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    I've heard of crank bros breaking. Leaning towards Easton or enve

    do you mean 730+ because they are proportionally correct for a Clyde or because that size bar is inherently for AM applications and will be stronger?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    I've heard of crank bros breaking. Leaning towards Easton or enve

    do you mean 730+ because they are proportionally correct for a Clyde or because that size bar is inherently for AM applications and will be stronger?
    I said 730 cuz that's kinda where AM starts size wise.

    I think everything crank brothers makes is junk so I wouldn't go that route..

    To be honest I rode the whiskey bars for 2000 miles before I got a chance to change and it took 10 feet to know I need a riser bar to feel comfortable on my bike..

    The set up in my honest opinion is more important than material. I switched from carbon to alum diety bars.. Saw no difference in dampening. Then a buddy wanted my alum ones for a set of wider carbon diety. The width is where the comfort comes for me. The carbon vs alum doesn't apply to me I guess..

    I'd look at spank 777 bars. They have a lot of colors and rise options.. Diety cz am bars. Whiskey carbons. Anvil bars. Azonic has some sweet looking new bars on Jensen that look amazing if you lik blue or red.

    Find one that fits.. And then get some nice grips..

    As far as stems diety has some sick ones as well as spank. If you want to go cheap there are some good value priced 30-50mm stems on Jensen..

    How tall are you and what size frame are you riding? That will help us recommend a good set up. Then price is all determined by how light you want these parts to be.

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    6'6", XL

    thanks

  8. #8
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    Jeez.. That's 3 inches on me. I'd say 50-70mm stem with a 760-800mm bar. Unless you are riding in a super tight area.. The wider bars will feel weird but after 1 ride you will love them.. Especially when climbing. Depending on how much head tube you have left you might need to get a riser bar. It will move your position upright and allow a more comfortable ride when pedaling in the saddle.

    Just my opinion.. If your have a good bike shop I'd hit them up and see if you can try a couple set ups.

    Getting it right the first time will save you a lot of time and money and save your back.

  9. #9
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    Easton anything is plenty strong. Havocs are wide and tuff.
    Todd

  10. #10
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    Currently using the parts of my XC bike which I know the stem is 110mm and I think the bars are probably 680mm. They're fine but I probably just don't know any better. My back gets sore by the top of longer climbs but I don't know if it's the bike or a weakness in my flexibility.

  11. #11
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    Clydesdale approved carbon bars?

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Currently using the parts of my XC bike which I know the stem is 110mm and I think the bars are probably 680mm. They're fine but I probably just don't know any better. My back gets sore by the top of longer climbs but I don't know if it's the bike or a weakness in my flexibility.
    A shorter stem will help eliminate the back pain. My Mamba had a 110mm stem and I felt all stretched out until I put a 70mm on it. Now my back is much better.


    Bikes I currently have. 2014 Trek Fuel EX 8 29er. 2013 Trek Mamba 29er.

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    I used to get awful back pain on my road bike, almost to the point I gave up cycling... my LBS had a 110mm stem on hand that they gave me for free and that helped a lot, but I still want a little bit shorter. The factory stem was 120mm so I can imagine that if 10mm made such a difference that more would be great.

  13. #13
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    Im riding FSA carbon bars at 230lbs geared.. no flex, but great vibration absorption. and I picked it up on ebay for like 60 bucks
    Rockhopper 29er

    -FSA Carbon handlebars, stem, & seatpost
    -2011 Rockshox Reba
    -Stan's Flow Wheelset
    -Ergon Grips

  14. #14
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    How about Thomson?
    I like turtles

  15. #15
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    I ran the Easton Monkey Lites on my AM bike for several years with no issues and I'm now running Truvativ Noir bars on my HT 29er with no issues. I weight 215lbs, hope that helps.

  16. #16
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    Went with Easton Haven. Thanks guys.

    I hope they're wide enough when matched with 60mm stem... kind of wishing I had gone with the Havoc's so I could have trimmed them shorter if I needed, can't add material to something too short!

  17. #17
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    Anyone ever had issues with carbon bars and durability? I still hear people say they don't trust carbon handlebars. And yet I rarely hear horror stories.

  18. #18
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    I've got two Renthal fatbar carbon and one syntace vector and no issues with any of them. Buy a known good brand and not light weight stuff and you should be good.

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  19. #19
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    I use raceface sixc bars. Never an issue.

    Failures are for 2 reasons almost every time (outside of crashes and seat posts don't count as those are just stupid):

    1. Ultra light weight parts and riding way beyond the design of the bike

    2. Improperly installed. Levers being tightened way too much, stem cap not being installed with a proper torque wrench etc.

    Use of carbon paste like your supposed to eliminates the need to tighten anything very much at all.

    I'm around 280lbs and also have full carbon fiber forks on my fat bike (even the steerer is carbon fiber) and I use paste, proper torque wrench and all. Been perfect since day one and I'm not nice to my fat bike at all. It also has raceface Sixc bars as well.

    Stay away from:. Cheap Chinese garbage ANYTHING. Never use a carbon fiber stem or seat post. Stick with reputable brands and parts meant for hard core riding (downhill/freeride) and your done.

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  20. #20
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    I also use RF sixc bars. Just inspect after each crash. Go over them visually, then give them a good solid push downward with all your weight just to make sure you dont hear any complaints from them.

    As for the carbon seatpost, I run a cheap nashbar one. Its not for weight savings as it weighs more than the post that it replace, but it is for comfort and damping, in the same way you have less hand fatigue when you switch to carbon bars. I'm confident the seat rails will bend well before the seatpost will break, considering how thick the carbon tubing is (easily double the thickness of bars). But If I'm riding anything with a high risk of an ass-to-seat impact, I usually have the seat slammed to get it out of the way anyway.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigKahuna View Post
    Anyone ever had issues with carbon bars and durability? I still hear people say they don't trust carbon handlebars. And yet I rarely hear horror stories.
    Google this: broken carbon bar face

    Take a look at the images.

    Alloy bars are pretty sweet.
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  22. #22
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    Guess what, happens with alloy bars too... Carbon failures as has been said are incorrect install, cheap Chinese garbage, or use outside of designed usage. Rarely (no more than alloy bars really) is their a failure from a reputable brand that even causes injury.

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  23. #23
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    I dig my Salsa carbon bars.

    They're strong, made for durability over lightness, and have some 'give' so my hands aren't so damn tired after a long day.
    Cross • Trail • Fat • Tour • Commute

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Rarely is their a failure from a reputable brand that even causes injury.
    Every injury/breakage I know of is from a carbon bar is from a reputable brand. The most common brand, which you can guess, is the one I've seen break and hurt people the most. Probably because it's the most common brand and all carbon bars can break.
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  25. #25
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    I've found plenty of alloy bars failing. The only caution with carbon is checking it after a crash besides installing correctly.

    Stress risers at the stem too which stems and carbon bars have been updated to alleviate that issue.

    I've seen a lot of more dated stuff from all the brands failing, pretty old by cycling standards though.

    And a lot I see are being weight weenies about their bars and then riding rather abusive trails.

    I ride fairly mellow XC by standards most of the time but ride with DH/FR carbon bars. My raceface sixc bars on my 29er went through several crashes including OTB, clipping a tree and so on. Never had an issue in the almost 3 years I rode with them.

    Carbon fiber fears of old are that, fears of old. They are made much better now but still require proper install and proper inspection. The little extra attention to detail is far outweighed by the benefits.

    BTW properly done carbon fiber far out performs alloy in everything except impact damage/excessive stress induced failure.

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  26. #26
    Kaj
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    I replace my alloy bars every two years. I don't ride carbon, as every time I crash, about 2-4 times a year, I no longer could trust them. I'm separated from my bike in a crash, and I don't know what impact they took.

    That's just me, most of my riding buddies are on carbon. I do personally know about 15 people who have broken carbon bars. About 8 of them were hurt, 2 seriously. Funny however is that the 2 most seriously hurt still ride carbon bars.
    Kona Wo for Fat Biking, Ibis HD3 for Trail Shredding, Merckx Road bike for collecting dust

  27. #27
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    You probably crash harder than I do lol and guessing ride harder. But I'm 285lbs so bike still takes a beating. Hell my full rigid fat bike is carbon forks and bars. Only worry of mine if I get too crazy is the steerer is carbon fiber too. Road bike has carbon fiber forks but I got that to increase how much I ride to get my weight down where it belongs.

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  28. #28
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    I've got ENVE riser bars on my full rigid single speed, and they are very nice!! Absorb a lot of vibration, and flex just enough when climbing out of the saddle.

    On my Pivot FS bike, I've got a set of Pivot brand bars, and can't complain about those either.

    If you watch Competitive Cyclist emails, they'll run sales on ENVE stuff once in a while. I've got both my ENVE bars for less than $100!!
    I need a cool saying to put here.

  29. #29
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    Race Face 6C too - no issues. Weigh about 210 without gear.

  30. #30
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    I've got RF SIXC bars and they flex a fair bit, I'm about 220 dry 230 geared up.

  31. #31
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    What are you running for a stem, i got over 60lbs on you and I don't notice any flex unless using a light weight stem

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  32. #32
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    Race face aeffect, 50mm. I don't Really feel them flex while riding, but I can make them flex if I work my fork. They are riser bars too.

  33. #33
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    I'll put another vote in for the RF SixC. i'm running them at full 800mm with a 35mm stem on my WFO 9 and they've been flawless. Haven't noticed any flex on mine

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    How about Thomson?
    I've been running Thomson carbon bars with their 60mm stem for a year now. FSR 6Fattie and I'm 230lb, no problems...

  35. #35
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    Deity now make a sub 300g 780mm aluminium bar. No reason to run carbon. I've seen too much carbon snappage to trust them after a crash.


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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Deity now make a sub 300g 780mm aluminium bar. No reason to run carbon. I've seen too much carbon snappage to trust them after a crash.
    Totally agree. Alloy is the way to go. I personally run SMAC bars, 300ish grams, great sweep bend, and 2 rise options.
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  37. #37
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    Hey, you guys are certainly entitled to your opinion, and if you feel alloy is less risky, thtas your choice.

    Many of us who have switched to carbon are not doing it for a measley 80 grams weight savings. It for the damping properties taking out some of the chatter, resulting in less arm fatigue and numbness. And as far as snapping strength, think what you will, but carbon is the superior material as long as it remains undamaged. Alloy will actually fail under less force than carbon. But obviously, if you overtighten the clamps and crush the carbon, or otherwise damage it in a crash, all bets are off. Think of it like those guys that tear through a thick phonebook with their bare hands. Easy to do once a small tear is started.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post

    Many of us who have switched to carbon are not doing it for a measley 80 grams weight savings. It for the damping properties taking out some of the chatter, resulting in less arm fatigue and numbness. And as far as snapping strength, think what you will, but carbon is the superior material as long as it remains undamaged. Alloy will actually fail under less force than carbon. But obviously, if you overtighten the clamps and crush the carbon, or otherwise damage it in a crash, all bets are off. Think of it like those guys that tear through a thick phonebook with their bare hands. Easy to do once a small tear is started.
    100% agree with every statement. I ride carbon bars on my road bike, my frames are carbon - road/mtb/cross. I don't ride carbon bars on my cross or mtb because of this statement you made:

    "But obviously, if you ... damage it in a crash, all bets are off"

    If I can save one of you guys from injury, my job is done. If you never crash your mtb, I wouldn't worry about carbon. In fact you will be safer with carbon bars. If you do crash your mtb, all bets are off.
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  39. #39
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    Crash damage is easy to spot. And truly a direct impact with a rock will cause failure of light weight alloys as well.

    Thing is so many people are still carrying "the fears of the old days". If you crash into rocks and the bars take a direct impact then ya, their kind of done.

    As I mentioned before, so many failures aren't even the cause of the bars, it's caused by improper install/improper use these days.

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  40. #40
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    I looked hard at carbon bars, ended up going with alloy Deity Skyline 787mm bars for my Trance. They run 20g heavier than the carbon Deity 787 bars, so weight is taken care of. I also have a lot of really tight trails, so I needed them to be able to clip a tree at high speed without worrying about them cracking. I took a rather nasty spill on them last night due to hitting a tree. You can see the bark I knocked off in the picture below.

    Carbon is said to reduce some of the roughness in riding, however I found myself getting better results off of good grips. I should also add that trees for me are such an issue that I tend to ride with armored gloves (Mechanix M-Pact typically). I'm really happy with my decision, they're solid for the border line crazy riding I do. They're also rated AM/DH, so they're sure to be sturdy enough for trail/enduro. For $70 bucks with free grips , it was a no brainier. The Knuckle Duster grips are amazing by the way. I ended up dropping my 80mm stem for a 40mm. The size was more due to it being cheap and what my LBS had on hand when I went to try some stems. Personally I think its been a great fit. It works well in the really windy trails, while still working great in the fast rocky stuff we find around here.




  41. #41
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    Had a few of those experiences lol. Thought I broke my pinky on one, took a chunk out of my ESI chunkys.

    Hope your ok.

    I sorted a good method that works for me on narrow spots, pitching the bike over and my tire line is as close to the outer tree as possible. Even on straight sections I'll lean over to give me more room to work with. Took a few tries to get it right (bouncing off the tree or shoulder tagging them) but works great.

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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Had a few of those experiences lol. Thought I broke my pinky on one, took a chunk out of my ESI chunkys.

    Hope your ok.

    I sorted a good method that works for me on narrow spots, pitching the bike over and my tire line is as close to the outer tree as possible. Even on straight sections I'll lean over to give me more room to work with. Took a few tries to get it right (bouncing off the tree or shoulder tagging them) but works great.

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    My leg looks like it got one hell of a rug burn, otherwise I remained unscathed. Washed the dirt out of the scrape with my pack and moved on. Was one of my more gnarly crashes in a long time, I slid a good three or four feet. Thankfully it was mostly dirt.

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