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  1. #1
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    Clydes using or have rode a 1x10

    Sorry if this topic has already been discussed. I searched around and could not find anything.

    I like the idea of the XX1 or X01, but at this time I just dont want to spend that much money to convert over from my current 2x10.

    I had considering converting my drivetrain to a 1x10, but I have heard from a few that currently run 1x10 and they say that it is diffiuclt while climbing steep trails. Keep in mind they are not clydes, and I am not sure what size of front chainring they were using. So I was concerned being a clyde that it would not be pratical for me as I do a lot of climbing.

    Now this morning I just saw a review for a new 11-42 10 speed rear cassette coversion to use with a 1x10 drivetrain.
    First Look: Installation of the 42T OneUp Components Sprocket | Enduro Mountainbike Magazine

    So of cousre I am considering it again, but before I do anything I was hoping to hear from a few of you. I like the idea of this cassette conversion to an 11-42, with a 30 tooth race face narrow/wide front chainring. I think a clyde or anyone else should climb fine with this setup.

    As a clyde do you, or have you rode a 1x10 drivetrain and what did you think? What size of front chainring, and what is the cassette setup you ride, or did you ride?

    Thanks in advance for your input on this.
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  2. #2
    JHH
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    28t x 42t = 24t x 36t

    I'm waiting to see how the early adopters fare with the OneUp Cog. As a Clyde we put a lot of force on parts and I'm not certain the OneUp solution can handle the sustained force us Clydes put on the drivetrain. Also based on the gear ratios a 30t in the front doesn't quite give you the low end torque you have now. This means if you decide to go 1x10 you'll really need to buy SRAM XX1 crankset to be able to fit a 28t chainring to get the low end you have now.

    I recommend testing yourself on a regular ride limiting your gears (stay in your 32t) and see how you fare. Alot depends onhow much climbing you do on average. My average rides are between 1800' and 2000' of elevation gain over a 9-11 mile ride.
    Last edited by JHH; 02-06-2014 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  3. #3
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    Some would consider me a "clyde" 6'3" 220. When I am not on my single speed I run 1x8 on both of my hardtail and FS. 33x34 and 32x34 Have yet to find a hill in NorCal that I cannot spin up.

  4. #4
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    Clydes using or have rode a 1x10

    I'm 285 and have been riding 1x10 for almost a year. Most of it with a 32x11-32 cassette. Just switched to a 11-36. I like the lower gears but to be honest the 36 is for when I'm lazy. I stay in my 17 19 cogs a lot. But I prefer standing up and attacking climbs too.

  5. #5
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    1x10 here. 36t with 12-36, no problems at all.

  6. #6
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    Running a 30t Race Face narrow/wide with an 11-36 cassette, seems to be perfect for my full rigid 29er
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHH View Post

    I recommend testing yourself on a regular ride limiting your gears (stay in your 32t) and see how you fare. Alot depends onhow much climbing you do on average. My average rides are between 1800' and 2000' of elevation gain over a 9-11 mile ride.
    I will have to try this next ride. My average climb is probably around 900' to 1500' over 8 to 10 miles during my lunch breaks, but I do climb 3500' in 8 miles a couple of times a year.
    "Ideal bikes are not bought, they evolve beneath you"

  8. #8
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    I have 1x9(30t x 12-36t) and 2x10... both are perfectly capable climbers, but the 2x has the top end advantage for those trails that are speed-friendly.
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  9. #9
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    I ride a Trek Scratch Air 9 with a 34t Race Face Narrow/wide and a 11-36t cassette. It worked great when I lived in Massachusetts for quick steeps with a lot of rocks and roots. Now I am back in Northern California (SF Bay Area) where climbs a a lot longer and I am actually gonna order the One Up 42t cog. Gonna try that and it should be enough, but if not then I will try a 32T or even a 30T in the front. In Mass when I rode I originally had a 36T-24T in the front and never really switched down to the 24T. By the way, I am a 300lb. Clyde.

  10. #10
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    I rode a 29+ with a 30 chainring and 11-34 cassette. Worked real nice but if it were my bike I would have changed it to a 28 with an 11-36.
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  11. #11
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    I ride a 30t Wolftooth narrow/wide up front and a 10spd 11-36 in back with no issue's. I was planning on going to a bigger front ring and getting the Wolftooth 42t cog for my Sram cassette to gain a bit more speed out of my setup. I ahve no issue's running 1x10 though and prefer it to runing multiple front rings.
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  12. #12
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    I run 1x9 - 32 front, I think 11-34T rear. I'd have to check honestly. I stay in the middle/upper parts, rarely at the very top though.

    I'm also 300lb club. I like it and ride in Central Coast area of CA (sandy!)

  13. #13
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    my 29er was a 1x8 with a 34t Chainring and a 11-34 cassette, I'm about to convert my 9:zero:7 to 1x10 with a 32t cr & a 11-36+42 rear, using a Wolftooth Giant Cog. I've been preparing by minimizing my use of the granny gear and I'm surprised at the hills I can clean with a 34cr & 36t rear cog.
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  14. #14
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    Re: Clydes using or have rode a 1x10

    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    I'm surprised at the hills I can clean with a 34cr & 36t rear cog.
    Then why go smaller?

  15. #15
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    I started out with a 36 n/w with 11-36 rear on my Yeti ARCc 29'r HT and that was a bit aggressive so I went down to a 34 n/w in the front. I'm now considering the new 11-42 rear cassette to have a real granny climbing gear but for the most part I just want to develop enough strength to use what I have. Currently at 6'1" and 225 bare but shooting for 210ish in a perfect world.

  16. #16
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    was using raceface 30T on a 29er
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  17. #17
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    Came across the other thread on a random search....

    I'm 6'4", 220 lbs. I think about my gearing very differently than most people but it works for me. I have a wicked spin so I gear my bikes to take advantage of that.

    An 11-13 inch gear inch combination allows me to ride pitches I'd walk otherwise. I can balance and spin at 1-3 mph just fine. If I need higher gears for technical moves, I have them.

    I am only running a single chainring on one bike. The single ring bike (26" rear/27.5" front) is 25x11-42, eight speed. The cogs run 11-14-17-21-28-34-38-42. The lowest combo is about 15 gear inches, (about equal to a 20x34) The top end is the same as a 32x14 which is usually too high for the way I ride this bike. It's the machine I take the most chances on over slow, choppy terrain.

    The others are all triple ring setups.

    Hardnose 24er: 15/28/44x16-20, two speed.

    Hardnose 26er: 19/29/46x11-39, eight speed.
    11-14-17-20-24-30-34-39

    Full Suspension 26er: 18/28/44x11-40, eight speed. 11-14-17-20-24-30-34-40

    Hardnose 27.5er: 17/26/46x11-40, eight speed.
    11-13-16-20-24-30-34-40

    Full suspension 29er: 17/26/38x12-42, ten speed. 12-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36-42

    Hardnose 29er: 17/26/39x11-42. eight speed. The cogs are 11-13-16-20-26-32-36-42

    Yup, my bikes are weird. It's a good thing no-one else has to ride them...

    On a side note, I have not noticed any significant damage to my freehub bodies (except for one cheap Shimano unit) with these kinds of gear ratios. Much of the time I don't need the lowest combinations but I am far more willing to replace the odd freehub body once in awhile than I am to compromise on the gearing I want.

    Any one set up their bikes with similar gear inch ranges ?

    1x drivetrains are cool for simplicity but will never compare to the utility of a 3x system IMHO. I would rather deal with the weight, ride with the lowest gears I can get and have the option of shifting up when I want higher gears. Losing 20 pounds will make way more of a climbing difference for me than losing my front derailleur, a shifter, and a couple chainrings.

  18. #18
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    I'm 6ft 225 and live in Florida so no real big climbing but I'm getting ready to convert to 1x10. Thinking I'm gonna go with a 36 tooth only because I like to hit dirt jumps and need the higher gear to to be able to pedal on big drop ins. I ride my 42 most of the time now so it should be fine. It's Florida and most of my local trails are under 15 miles.

  19. #19
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    I took the time to math out converting to a 30t with the 11-36 (-17) +42T OneUp, and if I were buying a new bike and building it from parts this is the route I'd go without hesitation.

    It really came down to that being another $150 in cost to take something that already works (a front derailleur setup with an 11-36T cassette) and save about the weight of a 40T Sprocket and a derailleur, but in the literally least detrimental spot to have on the bike (low, close to center of mass).

    I am using the granny gear a lot, since my favorite 1-hr loop has me climbing 700' in the first 1.8mi, and most of that is pretty gentle climbing really. As awesome as the 11-42T combined gear range and a 30T up front sounds, it doesn't do anything my current 22/33/(44) doesn't, and there are better ways to shed weight.

    On a clean slate, I'd run 30T // 11-42T in a heartbeat; but to ugprade to that from something that already works, it's a tougher sell.

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