Clydes on tarmac?
Hey guys. I'm currently tipping the scales around 255 sans gear and a couple of my Mtn Bike friends also have road bikes. I've thought about getting a road bike for the days when getting to a trail may not be possible. Also, I'm sure that road riding will increase my physical fitness.
So my question to the rest of you Clydes is, if I were to get a road bike, would you suggest aluminum? Carbon? I currently ride a 19 inch 29er hard tail, I'm a CH over six feet tall. What size frame would you suggest start looking at so I can get an idea as to where I should start test riding?
And, any worries about those super skinny tires and rims being killed by a 255Lb Clyde?
Some days I want to kick my own A$$ twice.
Due to arthritis, I had to sell my road bike, an old Cannodale R with all Campy Record components. I highly recommend this bike to Clydes!!!
It has a super rigid rear end.
I first rode a Trek steel, but kept breaking spokes- had to carry spare spokes on all rides and respoke entire wheel every 1000 miles. Pain.
Never broke a spoke in the Cannodale. Rear end didn't flex enough to twist the rear wheel. Also, Possible that the wheels were better made! They were double wall rims and I had straight spokes- heavy weight- I think 14.?
FYI, when I was racing (25 yr ago) on the Cannodale, my lowest weight was 240+. If I got down to 230, I became anemic. Did about 7000 miles a year.
I don't know who makes a similar bike, but I have seen old Cannodale road bikes for sale online.
A road bike has done wonders for my mtb riding -- I'd highly recommend it.
I ride the Jamis in my sig. Aluminum frame, carbon fork and seat-stays. I'm on mostly stock components, including the wheels, with no issues aside from a couple popped spokes. Hopping up curbs, over RR tracks, expansion joints -- I'm not easy on the bike and it hasn't let me down. Honestly, though, I wouldn't hesitate to go carbon next time. About 4k miles on the bike so far. I'm about 235-240 right now; I've been as heavy as 265 on the skinny tires (plus another 15-20# for my commuting pack and related gear). I do run 25mm tires for a bit more durability and less air pressure.
As life progressed, I found myself with less and less time to get out to the trails. While we're fortunate to have very good riding right next to the city here in SLC, it still takes 20+ minutes to drive to the trail from my house, and another 20+ back. So even a quick 30 minute ride still takes about 90 minutes all said and done. As I rode less, I got caught up in the classic cycle -- my fitness obviously declined, I gained weight, and when I finally could get on the mtb, obviously it wasn't very fun because my fitness was so poor -- it just wasn't worth the climb to get to the downhills anymore -- so I didn't want to ride as much!
On the road bike, if I only have an hour to ride, I can spend that whole hour riding. I also took up commuting on the bike, and that has been a great way to get my miles up, and lose some weight to boot. I've even found the occasional long road ride or organized century ride to be enjoyable. And when I do have time to get on the mtb, it is great -- although I'm not a natural climber, I can ride up anything I need to without too much suffering, and climb stuff like I did when I got my first hardtail at 23 yrs old. So my recommendation is, go for it!
'11 Specialized Enduro Expert for the trails
'13 Felt Z4 for the road
Frame material has nothing to do with spokes breaking...I've been riding steel road frames for 25 years without a single broken spoke.
Originally Posted by drmajor
I'm 5'10, 230. I started with a BMC slx01, it is carbon & alum. Frame Rides great no problems. It's stiff but takes the vibrations of the roads. I ride a 54 In Bmc and 56 In trek Madone
For wheels, I picked up some training wheels from performance bike , they are called titans. I ride on rough country roads and no problems as of yet, 1500 miles later. And the set was $150. Quite, smooth & still true.
2011 Yeti Big Top
2012 Santa Cruz Tallboy
1991 Cannondale m700
I use a cyclocross bike when I want to ride pavement (Bianchi Axis). The stock wheels sucked, but where's the surprise there? Everything else has been bomber. I've raced 'cross on it and put thousands of miles on it since buying four years ago and only the wheels have been an issue...but once I built some new ones, no worries.
Steel - Somewhat flexible (read vertical copliance and thus comfortable).
Originally Posted by Apexpredator65
Aluminum - Must be inflexible by design because aluminum fatigues to failure if it is flexed repeatedly. Thus it isn't compliant at all and will give the harshest ride.
Carbon - By working with materials, tube diameters and tube shapes the frame can be made for some vertical compliance which having excellent lateral stiffness. It can be the best of both worlds. Comfortable and efficient.
Titanium - Expensive and out of my price range. It's supposed to be the "best"...???
I wrestled mightily with this! My stock wheels were Shimano Ultegras. I beat up my rear wheel until it wouldn't stay true. I got a great deal on Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels. They are only a little bit heavier than the Kysrium SL wheels but much cheaper. I added 2 yrs insurance on the wheel for ~$50.
My bike is a Speshy Roubaix. It's a bit more of a relaxed geometry than the Tarmac for endurance riding rather than racing. I love it and I know another Clyde about my size who purchased one and he loves it too. I'm 6'5" and ~215lbs.
And Road riding will WAY IMPROVE your fitness for mountain biking!
Well I found a pre owned road bike and I'm probably going to pick it up tomorrow. It's a 2009 Jamis Xenith Race.
Going to have it checked out by my LBS and have an agreement with the current owner that if it doesn't pass muster I can return it.
Here's a link to the spec sheet.
Some days I want to kick my own A$$ twice.
I resto-moded a '92 trek 400... was big enough for me (64cm with a shortish TT), lugged steel rides smooth and the older frames could run larger tires
as a clyd don't really want to run under 28cc tires... I want to say I ran 32's on mine... looked a little off but it rode nicely... sadly I had to sell it
the big thing is to make it comfortable to ride... get the bars high enough so you can ride in the drops and the hoods with reasonable comfort...
er here she is almost finished... also ran an ultegra triple crank... needed granny to climb some of the hills in the area)... also had a 2nd standard wheelset and some nice cane creek brake leavers... could ride in the drops with comfort...
- Surly Disc trucker
- '82 trek 560 roadie
Love the old Trek...they used to make some very nice steel frames. Here is my steed, a brazed and lugged Landshark made with Reynolds 731 OS tubing. Made in Medford, OR.
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