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  1. #1
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    Clyde Makes Cassette Eat Hope Hub

    Bought the best I could get regarding hubs for my 9:ZERO:7 build, and after 50-60 miles this is what my freehub body looks like. I am using a SRAM PG-1050 Cassette.

    Is it something I did wrong? I know forsure that the lockring was tight, as I use a torque wrench. I had to actually pry each individual cog off the hub with......a herring!

    I am a clyde @ 270# unloaded.


    045 by jonshonda187, on Flickr


    049 by jonshonda187, on Flickr


    046 by jonshonda187, on Flickr

  2. #2
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    Hi Jon, I believe the issue is that your hope hub is an aluminum free hub body. You should look into purchasing a steel free hub body to help prevent this. I know more parts 😞

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  3. #3
    turtles make me hot
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    Yep. Steel free hub or at least a Shimano XT cassette.
    I like turtles

  4. #4
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    Now that I do the research, I find this is common. Why god....why???

    Now steel fh and xt cassette....when will it end?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Now that I do the research, I find this is common. Why god....why???

    Now steel fh and xt cassette....when will it end?
    I've had the same trouble, and it's not specific to hopes. As long as you can get the cassette back on there, run it. Buy a steel free hub body directly from hope and replace it and the cassette when the current cassette wears out. Should be good from there on.

  6. #6
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    Didnt have a bike to ride mid December. Riding partner let me use one of his HT bikes.

    In two rides i blew out 6-7 spokes in the rear wheel just torquing harder than he can.

    Such is the life of a clyde, eh?..... It never ends, and the pencil boys at the bike shops never really understand what we do to these bikes. It wont occur to them a part that works fine for them wont for us until AFTER we break it.

  7. #7
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    idk, I know it would bother me to run the freehub like that.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    idk, I know it would bother me to run the freehub like that.
    I've got a full season on an alloy hope freehub chewed up much worse than the pic, and I'm 275 lbs. My other bike has the same hub with the steel free hub body, and it has held up well. So long as you can get a new cassette on there, you'll be good to go.

  9. #9
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    I would file off the high spots and put it back together and ride. No need for major downtime. Maybe you should also buy the parts to fix and replace when the cassette is worn out as recommended above.


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Now that I do the research, I find this is common. Why god....why???

    Now steel fh and xt cassette....when will it end?
    Steel freehub body OR XT cassette

    You do not need both
    Former bicycle mechanic for 8 years, current soil scientist.

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRingGrinder View Post
    Didnt have a bike to ride mid December. Riding partner let me use one of his HT bikes.

    In two rides i blew out 6-7 spokes in the rear wheel just torquing harder than he can.

    Such is the life of a clyde, eh?..... It never ends, and the pencil boys at the bike shops never really understand what we do to these bikes. It wont occur to them a part that works fine for them wont for us until AFTER we break it.
    You sir, sound like you're on your way to becoming a clyde-specific bike mechanic. It can be a frustrating journey, but in the long run, far more satisfying then relying on skinny guys with elaborate facial hair to keep you on the trail.

    To the OP: for what it's worth, I'm in your weight class and I have an aluminum chris king freehub that's chewed to hell. That's with XT level cassettes on it. I just use some spray lube and a rubber mallet to help loosen it off when I service the hub. A steel freehub is probably a better option for you in the long run at your size and leg strength. I have another wheel with a steel freehub with no damage at all.
    "Serpentine Shelly. Serpentine!"

  12. #12
    some know me as mongo
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    Yeah ever alum freehub body that I have owned has looked like that in a short time. That being said if you leave the cassette on and don't take it off often then you will be ok. Also to provent it getting worst in the mean time DO NOT file the high spots down ans just leave the cassette on unless you HAVE to take it off.

    Also get the steel freehub body but there is no rush. Its not like the current one is going to explode or anything like that

  13. #13
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    The problem is the spider on that hub only covers the 3 lowest gears:



    That's your problem. The individual cogs are digging into the driveshell. They would do that even on stainless steel.

    You want a cassette with a much bigger spider to spread the load. All clydes should:

    Eg: an xt cassette. Only the 3 biggest gears, with the least torque, are loose. The rest are attached to the spider, speading the load on the driveshell.



    The higher end sram ones are the same, cheers

  14. #14
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    The problem is not as much the "clyde" status but the wrong cassette selection..

    I'm using a XT cassette on my Hope with zero problems and I'm about 240 plus a lot of gear.

  15. #15
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    Yeah, I now know what "not to do" when selecting cassettes.

    LBS happens to have a xt cassette on the self......hhhhmmmmm

  16. #16
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    I too run an XT 10 speed

  17. #17
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    If you stay with the aluminum freehub, make sur you file down the high spots so you can easily get the new casette on and off. I'm very curious though that if at some point the aluminum will get work hardened and stop eating throught. Please keep using the same aluminum and perform some destructive testing

  18. #18
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    there is nothing wrong with your hub, no reason not to keep riding on it. as the above poster noted, just file down those high spots so you can get the cassette back on easily

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by amadkins View Post
    I've had the same trouble, and it's not specific to hopes. As long as you can get the cassette back on there, run it. Buy a steel free hub body directly from hope and replace it and the cassette when the current cassette wears out. Should be good from there on.
    I did damage twice that bad to a new king hub. I wore out the cassette last week, the shop had to work to get it off using two whips to back each cog out individually....then some un-artful banging.

    I basically made the same decision you presented. I'm going to run this new cassette till its junk, expecting that I wont remove the cassette during that time and when I do go to change it I'll have to put a steel freehub on at the same time.

  20. #20
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    I didn't ask the lbs owner if he filed down the high spots, so the next chance I get I will tear the cassette off and have a look.

    One other concerning thing for me is that there was already a bad bearing in the hub. LBS showed me the bad bearing, which I am not too happy about.

    I am hoping this HOPE hub is not cursed.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I didn't ask the lbs owner if he filed down the high spots, so the next chance I get I will tear the cassette off and have a look.

    One other concerning thing for me is that there was already a bad bearing in the hub. LBS showed me the bad bearing, which I am not too happy about.

    I am hoping this HOPE hub is not cursed.
    Dont bother taking the cassette off, just leave it alone, you only file them if you cant get the cassette back on


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