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  1. #1
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    chains are the weak point now

    Well I break one about every 10 hours of riding it seems. Keep them clean & lubed, don't shift hard, etc. But when I mash on then they snap. Ideas for a bombproof chain? I don't mind spending a bit.

  2. #2
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    i have heard good things about KMC chains, but i would look a little deeper. You shouldnt be breaking chains that regular. Are they breaking in random spots, at the power link if you have one, or where the chain has been broken before to fit to the bike?

  3. #3
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    a pro rider can apply more power to a chain than probably any of us can, even at higher weights, power applied is the only stress on a chain.. and pros dont break chains every 10 hours!

    you have a damaged drivetrain component.. its not your chain though. i bet you've got a shot cassette?

  4. #4
    local trails rider
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    A damaged tooth on a cog or chainring could do this, maybe even a rear derailer that is not perfectly aligned.

    I've only ever managed to break a chain at a badly made joint from when the chain was put on the bike.

  5. #5
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    I agree with others that if you are breaking chains that frequently, the problem likely lies in some other drive train component. First suspects are wear or bent teeth on cassette or chain rings.

    OTOH, I wouldn't be buying SRAM chains if I were you. See this thread for reasons why:
    Snapped Another Chain.
    Seems like KMC or Shimano would be a better choice.

    I wouldn't be surprised if some clydes put more stress on a chain than the pros. I'm picturing a clyde around 250, in pretty good shape, mashing down on the pedals during a climb so his weight plays into it as well. For the pros, its about power to weight ratio and endurance, so power is only a part of what makes them great cyclists.

  6. #6
    Former Bike Wrench
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigmatero
    Well I break one about every 10 hours of riding it seems. Keep them clean & lubed, don't shift hard, etc. But when I mash on then they snap. Ideas for a bombproof chain? I don't mind spending a bit.
    That seems pretty frequent...here are some ideas.
    -Make sure your NOT reusing chain pins...once you break a chain you need to either use a quick link or if you use Shimano chains you can use a new replacement pin. Never size a chain then push a pin back in.

    -I would highly recommend chains that use center punched pins. The most common are KMC or Shimano. They have a pull strength that meets or exceeds 350 kilo's (kgf), this is 1.75x more than standard SRAM chains

    -Do not cross chain...if your mashing in the Big/Big combo or similar your putting a lot of side load on a chain, this is a good way to wear and break a chain

    -This might be obvious but I must address it since it was a common issue when I worked on bikes. Don't use WD40 on your chain as a lubricant.

    -Make sure the lube you are using is lasting the entire ride, if your lube gets washed off halfway through a ride...its not protecting your chain.

    Good luck and I hope you find a solution

  7. #7
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    My last two chains have been SRAM PC-971s. Never broke one at a quick link, they've always pulled the link apart (pulled a pin out). I'll check over my drivetrain carefully. Will also get a KMC-x9 and try that.

    Thanks for the advice.

  8. #8
    phatmanenfuego
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    Rolhoff

    Just recently changed chains to the rohloff chain after the SRAM 991. That didn't have near breakage the problems over the other chains, but the Rohloff just feels better. I should note, I did smoke (Strip) a rear freehub and the chain didnt break. No real stretching either according to the gage. That may not necessarily be a good thing since the hub was more expensive.

  9. #9
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    I had this problem for awhile, too. Turned out a slightly bent couple of teeth on my granny gear were acting as wedges to pry the sideplates off my chains.

    Give everything a careful look over before you decide the chain is at fault.

  10. #10
    Underskilled
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    I don't break chains that often and I just rounded off a new 35 chainring on a power move.

    I would guess shifting under power, then wondering why a chain snaps 20 mins later when you 'were just riding along'.

    KMC x9 is the definative clyde chain, which you of course know as you searched before posting =-)

  11. #11
    Probably drunk right now
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    ^^Building on This^^

    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant
    I don't break chains that often and I just rounded off a new 35 chainring on a power move.

    I would guess shifting under power, then wondering why a chain snaps 20 mins later when you 'were just riding along'.

    KMC x9 is the definative clyde chain, which you of course know as you searched before posting =-)

    To the OP: Are you cross chained or otherwise side loading the chain? Chains are almost impossible to break linearly but are easy to break if they're side loaded.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken in KC
    To the OP: Are you cross chained or otherwise side loading the chain? Chains are almost impossible to break linearly but are easy to break if they're side loaded.

    I'm with you, doing big-big, or small-small could be the reason why you are breaking so many chains.
    Big Foot Blue KHS XC704r

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