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  1. #1
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    Building a Clydeproof FS 29er

    Ok I've started to do a lot of research on building up a Clydeproof full suspension 29er bike. I'm going to keep it under 30 pounds. I believe I've found a perfect frame and have been in conversation with Lenz Sport. In emailing back and forth they seem to believe that the Behemoth frame can take whatever punishment I dish out in the type of riding I do which is XC and All Mountain. And they were sympathetic to a big guys plight which is more than i can say for the BIG manufacturers. So im looking at a 2 X 10 set up. For a fork im thinking of a Spring Air set up with the spring being custom fabricated at a local shop to be super firm and for a rear shock a Cane Creek double barrel . So now I'd like some feedback from you my large brothers as to components that you have used that have held up to the test of the Clyde.

    Me: 6 foot 325 as of this morning

    Frame : Lenz Behemoth large

    Crank set: ?
    Front and rear derailier :?
    Casette:
    Brakes:?
    Rims:?
    Headset: ?
    Bottom bracket:?
    Chances are .. You're full of !$@&?

  2. #2
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    Not sure what you mean by big manufacturers being unsympathetic to a big guy's plight. At 6 foot, every bike company has a frame your size and some of the BIG companies even offer a lifetime warranty on their frames. Buy an SLX or better equipped model and upgrade the wheel set and shock if needed.

    If you were 6'8" you would have a point, most bike companies dont make frames that big. Yea, we clydes are used to the 145lb bike shop guy who has no clue what we can do to bikes, but thats not going to keep a manufacturer from honoring a warranty or providing outstanding customer service.

    Dont get me wrong, if you want a custom build knock your self out. Just know that there are plenty of clydes out there beating the hell out of big brand bikes with few issues.
    "Bigring, that's deep. ...Well, I suspect it is. I didn't read it."

  3. #3
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    Building a Clydeproof FS 29er

    What I mean by bike manufactures is not many will warranty their frames for a 300 pound rider. For instance Trek is 250 pounds I think and Specialized is even less than that. Sure big guys ride them but they are not designed or purpose built for the heavy rider. And a few manufacturers are even getting rid of xl size frames. But the main issue is component stuff like forks and shocks, wheel sets etc. wondering what components you guys are using and how are they holding up
    Chances are .. You're full of !$@&?

  4. #4
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    Your bike's warranty comes down to your relationship with your bike store. trek and Specialized are not coming to your house to make you stand on a scale to deny your warranty claim. If the bike store submits it, the store is working for you. I am ~315 ready to ride and I ride a Specialized Camber... I LOVE my bike and it works really well for me.

    But to answer the question posed:

    Crank set: Something aluminum (not carbon): Shimano SLX/XT or Truvativ (SRAM) X7/X9
    Front and rear derailier : This doesn't matter so much for a clyde. Your weight does not transfer to the derailleurs. I love my SRAM X9 Type 2 because it is dead silent on the trail.
    Casette: Stay away from the light weight parts. If you spin instead of mash, your weight shouldn't play on the cassette. If you are a sploppy pedaler and mash your way to victory, get something heavy duty. My pick would be Shimano's SLX.
    Brakes: Depending on shifters, you will be hard pressed to beat Shimano's stuff. SLX/XT for XC or Zee/Saint if you point it down. Shimano levers don't play well with the new GripShift (I run this), so my recommendations shift over to Hope Tech M4 brakes for those shifters.
    Rims: Stans Flow EX. Sun Ringle MTX33. Velocity Chukker (some what narrow). Velocity Blunt 35.
    Hubs: Hope Pro 2 Evo or Chris King
    Headset: Not an issue for a clyde.
    Bottom bracket: Not an issue for a clyde. (Whatever works for the cranks you select.)
    Fat guys need bikes too.

  5. #5
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    Building a Clydeproof FS 29er

    Quote Originally Posted by Knight511 View Post
    Your bike's warranty comes down to your relationship with your bike store. trek and Specialized are not coming to your house to make you stand on a scale to deny your warranty claim. If the bike store submits it, the store is working for you. I am ~315 ready to ride and I ride a Specialized Camber... I LOVE my bike and it works really well for me.

    But to answer the question posed:

    Crank set: Something aluminum (not carbon): Shimano SLX/XT or Truvativ (SRAM) X7/X9
    Front and rear derailier : This doesn't matter so much for a clyde. Your weight does not transfer to the derailleurs. I love my SRAM X9 Type 2 because it is dead silent on the trail.
    Casette: Stay away from the light weight parts. If you spin instead of mash, your weight shouldn't play on the cassette. If you are a sploppy pedaler and mash your way to victory, get something heavy duty. My pick would be Shimano's SLX.
    Brakes: Depending on shifters, you will be hard pressed to beat Shimano's stuff. SLX/XT for XC or Zee/Saint if you point it down. Shimano levers don't play well with the new GripShift (I run this), so my recommendations shift over to Hope Tech M4 brakes for those shifters.
    Rims: Stans Flow EX. Sun Ringle MTX33. Velocity Chukker (some what narrow). Velocity Blunt 35.
    Hubs: Hope Pro 2 Evo or Chris King
    Headset: Not an issue for a clyde.
    Bottom bracket: Not an issue for a clyde. (Whatever works for the cranks you select.)
    Thanks! That points me in all the right directions!!
    Chances are .. You're full of !$@&?

  6. #6
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    For the hubs go with White industries MI6 they are cheaper then Kings and are able to hold up to us clydes really well as they are build for use on tandem bikes also.

    Headset and bottom bracket I would use chris king.

    Rims velocity blunt 35

  7. #7
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    I was close to your size at 6'-3", and now down to 275.
    My kit that worked and never gave me a mechanical failure on the trail:

    Crank set: Shimano SLX - the steel inserts on the pedal spindles make it very burly.
    Front and rear derailier: Go for SLX or XT, those are durable. XTR-level sacrifices strength for weight.
    Casette: Get a 36-tooth for the bail out gear.
    Brakes: Shimano hydros, get a 203mm front rotor, rear can be left at 160mm most likely.
    Rims: Sun MTX33 - these are the burliest rims you can get. I don't even use tubeless because they have never snakebit.
    Headset: Cane Creek 110 if you want the best tech.
    Bottom bracket: I just used BB's that go with the cranks, nothing special. Never had issues.

    One thing you didn't mention: Hubs.
    Get Chris King or Hadley, with a steel hub shell. I've literally ripped Hopes apart due to the torque, had to throw away a hub shell with a cassette because the aluminum was torn so badly, etcetera.

  8. #8
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    While I don't necessarily think you absolutely need a custom frame from Lenz, they do make strong bikes. I'm about your weight, but got 4" on you in height and I have been riding a Niner WFO and a Knolly Chilcotin and I don't have very much worry about breaking the frames. I think Yeti, Banshee, Knolly, just to name a few make burly frames that will hold up for big guys. I've seen big dudes on Santa Cruz Nomads too.

    I am going to take issue with some of the statements guys have said about bottom brackets. I have blown out a couple of GXP/Truvativ bottom brackets after only a few months. Can't speak for Shimano because I haven't run one for years. Now I've got Chris King on all my bikes.

    I've found that quality hubs and steel cogs/cassette are the most important things to beef up for guys our weight. Definitely get a stainless steel freehub body on your rear hub. I run 22/36 cogs on X9 cranks with 12-36 cassette and I really appreciate the super granny gears. And I'm running Stan's Flows EX (32F/36R) laced to CK hubs on my WFO and they're tough.

  9. #9
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    One thing I forgot to say about suspension, if you can find springs that work, do it. But I'm running air on both my bikes and it's been working pretty well for a while now. I think one important thing for me at my weight is that I need a piggyback type shock to help with bottoming out, so I have a Fox DHX Air on one bike and a CCDBA on the other.

  10. #10
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    Building a Clydeproof FS 29er

    I was already considering a CCDBA for the rear shock. But the fork issue has me a bit perplexed. I figure its got to be a Coil-spring set up. I was looking maybe at a VAN but I don't want more than 120mm travel.
    Chances are .. You're full of !$@&?

  11. #11
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    banshee prime (comes with a ccdba if chosen so) is a burly frame that can pedal.
    pairing it with a 140 pike, that you can adjust the progressiveness by adding air tokens, would be a great combo IMO.
    in the user manual a 120 version of pike is mentioned. do not know if it is available aftermarket at the time or if it will ever be, but it's sth worth checking with the sram service dpt if you decide to adhere to max 120 fork travel.

    edit
    forgot to mention that 142x12 or wider is really noticeable over the 135. Ι forgot it cause I thought all AM 29ers had allready adopted that standard, but behemoth seems to stick to 135.

  12. #12
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    To me, "Clyde-proof" and "Under thirty pounds" don't work in the same bike... but you may have a better budget than I if you're looking at a Lenz.

    From what's worked for me, I'd +1 steel cassette, steel pedal inserts on the cranks (although I'd go out and out DH crank if you're over 300,) and spec DH stuff for the cockpit.

    Although I've always had to use two chainwhips to get cassettes off of the aluminum freehubs (yes, even with XT cassettes,) Hope hubs and Sun rims properly strung together have treated me well--although the steel freehub is worth the markup. MTX33=good call

    I don't know if you can get away with putting anything but a King headset on that thing.

  13. #13
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    Re: Building a Clydeproof FS 29er

    Good thread, good info for clyde proof parts all in one spot (reading 50 pages just to figure out 1 thing sucks)

    I will say being a clyde myself thankfully I'm a newish rider and only ride xc singletrack atm, cause damn the listed options get pricey quick. I ride a 29er ht and almost all slx except crank (m590 hollow) and bb7 brakes till winter when I'm getting slx brakes too. Nothing wrong with bb7s at all just wanna try hydros.
    I will say shimano slx if on a budget, held my butt quite well no issues all season.

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  14. #14
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    Rims Flows laced to Hope hubs, 36 hole count. I would consider a custom builder (like I did) as the wheel build itself is just as critical as the actual components.

    Brakes - Shimano XT with the Ice Tech rotors. At your weight, I'd go 200/180 vs 180/160 that I run.

    The rest I don't think really matter that much, but maybe consider a Saint crank but I'm not sure if you can do a 2 x 10 with a Saint? FWIW, I'm using stock X7 cranks, X9 rear, X7 front and I'm weigh 255lbs and I've had no issues.

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