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Thread: Build or Buy?

  1. #1
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    Build or Buy?

    Hi,

    I have been on the hunt for a while for a mountain bike hardtail, 29er. Presently at 6'8 and 308lbs. I purchased a Trek Marlin 29er (23") and had no end of problems with it, (it went back to the LBS 4 times in 8 days, for various reasons the last one being the rear wheel falling out during a ride). I recently tried the Trek Cobia and didn't get on well with the forks, I found them too soft and couldn't get used to them for the duration of my test ride.

    I have been looking on-line at next years models and you seem to get less for your money, I don't have a massive budget, it may increase over the winter as I realise it's getting late to buy one now to get out over the autumn/winter, roughly a week or two lead time on delivery for some shops in my area.

    I contemplated building a bike over the winter and grabbing some good bargain parts in the sales and building the bike up so I know my bike and know how to repair it. I am fairly mechanical and have some help from a few friends who ride so tools/etc will be available to me.

    What would be the best/suggested route to go? I have a 34" inside seam and a long body. The 23" was a nice fit on me it just had no end of problems as I saw it and lost confidence in the bike.

  2. #2
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    Stay tuned on the forums...
    ...and build that bad boy up.
    ...I diddit.
    ...still doin' it.
    Big time fun...huntin the parts and tools down...
    That's wassup.
    roccowt.
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  3. #3
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    It doesn't sound as if all of your problems with the Marlin were failings of the bike. Rear wheels do not just fall out and you've not said what the other faults were. Wheels not being fitted properly are human error. If the faults were not mechanical, then you'll likely get them all over again with another bike.
    Why not look at the old models? Shops are wanting to get rid of 2013 bikes so they go fo a lot less and many just change the colours for the new year.

  4. #4
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    The marlin was checked before every ride. The rear wheel wasn't loose when I started my ride and I don't expect it to loosen during my ride. Other problems I had were bottom bracket came loose twice, after it was tightened and then replaced. I had chain popping issues when cycling, in none extreme gears. At one point I only has 4/5 gears on rear cassette and only the middle ring on front, I also had a loud clicking noise in 1st/2nd gear when using any ring. Gearing was tuned and it happened again 20 mins after I left the shop.

    I have been looking at 2013 models, however some shops do not have any older models in and point towards 2014 models (refuse to order in essentially) when I enquire.

  5. #5
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    I am riding a RH with MTX33's and Hope Pro Hubs. You need custom wheels and I recommend something like this. I like Trek frames they are beefy for clydes but the rest of the bikes are not so great on the lower end models. I found my RH stock to be allot better than the Trek but the frame is not as heavy duty.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ravelin View Post
    Hi,

    I have been on the hunt for a while for a mountain bike hardtail, 29er. Presently at 6'8 and 308lbs. I purchased a Trek Marlin 29er (23") and had no end of problems with it, (it went back to the LBS 4 times in 8 days, for various reasons the last one being the rear wheel falling out during a ride). I recently tried the Trek Cobia and didn't get on well with the forks, I found them too soft and couldn't get used to them for the duration of my test ride.

    I have been looking on-line at next years models and you seem to get less for your money, I don't have a massive budget, it may increase over the winter as I realise it's getting late to buy one now to get out over the autumn/winter, roughly a week or two lead time on delivery for some shops in my area.

    I contemplated building a bike over the winter and grabbing some good bargain parts in the sales and building the bike up so I know my bike and know how to repair it. I am fairly mechanical and have some help from a few friends who ride so tools/etc will be available to me.

    What would be the best/suggested route to go? I have a 34" inside seam and a long body. The 23" was a nice fit on me it just had no end of problems as I saw it and lost confidence in the bike.
    Just my thought here mate, many errors on a rig are often due to human negligence (not saying this is the same in your case, so please do not get offended), this could be from your LBS.

    Trek however makes a good frame for a Super Clydes, if you could afford just purchase parts here and there until you have everything you want for it and then put it all on, in the mean time just keep running your rig and doing all your preventive maintenance checks. If the issues continue to persist then let the LBS know and keep everything documented, just because they can sell bikes does not mean they know **** about them. Find you a could tech at another location, explain your issues but do not allow them to touch the rig for legal reasons. Then get a solicitor and have a nice letter written to your LBS.

    I think for safety reasons it would be nice to know who the LBS is just in case others are going there as well.

    Lastly, something I learned long ago. I generally do the minor stuff to my own rig, but when it needs to go in to a shop I only take it to other Clydes that exceed my height & weight. I am not saying that those little fellas can not do the same work but to me it seems that when another Clyde digs into my rig they work on it like it is their own rig. Just food for thought.
    De oppresso liber

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ivan67 View Post
    ...just because they can sell bikes does not mean they know **** about them.
    ^^^^^worth repeating.

    Tough to say why the rear wheel fell out but I would start with troubleshooting it. Make sure everything is tight. I had continual problems with a Formula hub (on a Giant STP) until I got serious about fixing it. Drive side cones (cone shaped nut and locknut that hold tension on the bearings) were loose. This is underneath the cassette body and the only way to access it is to pull the axle out of the hub. You have a bit of a problem bike; take this opportunity to practice your wrenching skills trying to fix the things that aren't working (then sell a working bike for more money than you can get for a non working bike).

    Park Tool Co. AV-1 : Axle Vise : Hub & Axles
    Park Tool Co. DCW-2 : Double-Ended Cone Wrench : Hub & Axles I forget exactly which size I needed for my hubs; probably somewhere between 15mm and 18mm; it's possible you'll need 2 of the same size.
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  8. #8
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    Shimano XT rear hub service - YouTube

    at 2:42, the guy is holding on to the drive side cone/locknut; these need to be sure to be tightened together (not shown in video that I could see).
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the advice guys, will upgrade parts over the winter. Wind/rain set in now. Crc has a hope BB for sale(70quid) and persevere. Might get a new bike on cycle2work scheme in January.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4

  10. #10
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    I looked at alot of retail bikes and very few had a frame as beefy as the Trek lower end bikes, My Trek 4300 had a great beefy frame but the rest of the bike was garbage, you should take the time to upgrade.

    Bens Cycle out of Milwaukee will make you some MTX 33's Suns laced up for cheap shipped, throw some BB7's on with over sized rotors and shim the engagement arms out on the BB7 calipers and you have a real good Clyde level entry bike. Those are good tough frames for clydes for cheap.

  11. #11
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    How much do you want to spend?

  12. #12
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    No question build it!! Find a frame fit right for you, then spend some coin on wheels, then beefy crank set. X7/9 or shimano slx/St drivetrain. Big rotor front and rear...boom!!

  13. #13
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    Agree, build it. Also stop taking your bike to the LBS for repair unless its last resort. Learn how to work on your own stuff and you'll become more in tune with the bike and how it operates. Easier for you to track down squeaks, rattles, and tighten things up than an LBS. As mentioned above, check out Park Tool's website, lots of good maintenance info.

  14. #14
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    One thing you can do is buy the new parts and put them on your Trek until you find the frame you want. I have more or less done this with my RH and do not regret it.

    I bought Hope hubs with MTX 33's and put BB7 and the rotors I wanted on it and I am looking for the frame to do a transplant to make what I want.

  15. #15
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    Build it! Especially since it doesn't look like you can trust your local shop too much, especially if a wheel fell off. Doing the build will make you familiar with all the parts intimately, which will help you do any fixes yourself later, especially in a pinch 10 miles from a trailhead. I rebuilt a bike 5 years ago, like it so much, I opened a used bike shop and not I rebuild bikes everyday!
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  16. #16
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    Thanks for advice guys put my new bottombracket on and feels better already. Just working my way though videos and parts I need(want) to upgrade.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 4

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