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  1. #1
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    Bike suggestions for Fatsos...

    Hi there
    I'm a fatso... but I used to LOVE riding bikes when I was young. It was how I kept weight off.
    I want to buy a new bike and start up again.
    I need a bike that can handle my weight. Last time I tried riding a bike, the tires sorta... flattened (I was 315 at that point I think)

    I am currently 6'3" and 290lbs

    I plan to ride some trails and drop some weight.

    I need something burly.
    I want it to be good on road and on light trails

  2. #2
    Your bike is incorrigible
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chapel
    Hi there
    I'm a fatso... but I used to LOVE riding bikes when I was young. It was how I kept weight off.
    I want to buy a new bike and start up again.
    I need a bike that can handle my weight. Last time I tried riding a bike, the tires sorta... flattened (I was 315 at that point I think)

    I am currently 6'3" and 290lbs

    I plan to ride some trails and drop some weight.

    I need something burly.
    I want it to be good on road and on light trails
    First of all, this forum is not for fatsoes; it is for those of us who happen to be big boned.

    Now, the real question is, How much are you going to spend? You can always go with the Kona Hoss, as it was designed to be a XC bike for clydes. Or, if you want to spend more money, there are some good full suspension bikes out there that will stand up to clyde abuse.

  3. #3
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    heh. I'm actually just calling myself a fatso (I should have titled this "Bike suggestions for A fatso"). But even at my lightest, I find it hard to get below 220lbs. I'm a BIG guy overall. 38" waist is the smallest I've ever worn past age 14.
    I'm actually looking for something on the 'less expensive' side.
    Someone else mentioned a Kona Hoss to me
    I've been told to look for a primarily rigid frame and fork and big fat tires and tubes.
    I don't think I need a suspended bike as the trails I'll probably ride are pretty soft.
    I'm might want to consider a full suspender later when I've dropped the weight and want to hit the more abusive trails.
    Last edited by Chapel; 06-29-2006 at 01:19 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chapel
    heh. I'm actually just calling myself a fatso (I should have titled this "Bike suggestions for A fatso"). But even at my lightest, I find it hard to get below 220lbs. I'm a BIG guy overall. 38" inseams are the smallest I've ever worn past age 14.
    I'm actually looking for something on the 'less expensive' side.
    Someone else mentioned a Kona Hoss to me
    I've been told to look for a primarily rigid frame and fork and big fat tires and tubes.
    I don't think I need a suspended bike as the trails I'll probably ride are pretty soft.
    I'm might want to consider a full suspender later when I've dropped the weight and want to hit the more abusive trails.
    I was just kidding about the fatso bit.

    The Hoss is really overbuilt, and it can take a lot of abuse. There are some who think it is good for dirt jumping it is so burly, but it is meant as a XC bike. The basic Hoss goes for $800, and the Hoss Dee-lux goes for $1100. Some have mentioned that the forks on the basic are not so great. I wouldn't know because I built mine up from the frame.

    You could go cheaper and look at the Specialized Rockhopper. You can get one with decent forks and brakes for around $600.

    A lot is going to depend on what your local stores carry. My advice for now is to check out the local shops and see what brands they carry. Also see how large the frames run (it won't do you any good if the largest frame is 19" since you're going to need upwards of 22" with that inseam). Then we can decide on which bike from which brand is best for you.

  5. #5
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    sorry, my WAIST it 46... my Inseam is 32"... :P

  6. #6
    Fat, but working on it...
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    I'm riding a Santa Cruz Chameleon and love it. Holds up nicely to me, and I'm about 250.

  7. #7
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    I guess the big question is... how much money is it gonna cost me to get a basic 'big fella bike'

  8. #8
    Klydesdale
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guyechka
    I was just kidding about the fatso bit.

    The Hoss is really overbuilt, and it can take a lot of abuse. There are some who think it is good for dirt jumping it is so burly, but it is meant as a XC bike. The basic Hoss goes for $800, and the Hoss Dee-lux goes for $1100. Some have mentioned that the forks on the basic are not so great. I wouldn't know because I built mine up from the frame.

    Personally, I don't think that a MTB that uses a Shimano FH-M475 rear hub is "really overbuilt"or "burly". The frame may be pretty beefy but if you keep cracking freewheel bodies and bending axles like I've done with every level of Shimano freehub I've tried, you're going to want a to upgrade to a stronger hub pretty soon. (And I'm "only" 250 and don't do any sort of real dirt jumping.)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chapel
    I guess the big question is... how much money is it gonna cost me to get a basic 'big fella bike'
    Hard tail = from $700. At least, this is what I figure you are looking at in the first place, hard tails. And there are several, but, again, it all depends on what your shop carries. I would not recommend ordering one through the mail. I mean, there are clyde worthy selections from Marin, GT, Specialized, Kona--and those are just the bigger brand names.

  10. #10
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    My suggestion would be to see if you can rent a bike and try a couple of ride first, and then go from there. A friend of mine just bought a bike and less than a mounth later decided that the trails weren't for him. Don't make the mistake that I made 4 mounths ago. And that was getting back into biking for as little as possible. I spent 300.00 on a mtb with entry level equip. wasn't one week before I stripped my first set of cranks. Upgraded them and three weeks later stripped them out. I am 285 lbs. Ended up trading in the bike lossing a 1/4 of my money and getting some thing that could handle me. You are better waiting and saving your money for some thing decent.

  11. #11
    Making fat cool since '71
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    Lots of "depends"...

    As you can imagine there are lots of threads on this and if you want more info than you can shake a pound of bacon at just search: Bikes for Clydes, Best+Bike+Clydesdale, etc...

    That being said, if money is the most predominant factor in your decision the "best" option is the Hoss. The SC Chameleon is a good choice for us, but about 30% more $ (give or take sales). My biggest bit of advice (being a clyde, being an aggressive trail rider, having absolutely zero skill, having once weighed 310+...) is to be faithful to whatever bike you get and do *not* get discouraged when things break, it happens. Despite protestations to the opposite all bits can and do break. Shimano hubs in my experience been one of the worst things a clyde can put on their bikes. It's an area I would drop some coin on. I've rebuilt tons (literally...) of rear hubs (XT) before I decided to just drop some coin on "good" hubs (King). Zero issues since, period. Having a compotent builder lace your wheels makes a shiteload of difference in how those finicky little bastards roll and stay true as well. Factory wheels may have decent bits on them, but machines don't build a wheel like a shop wrench can (in my not so freakin humble opinion...).

    Anywho, and back to the question I suppose: give yourself a grand to get a bike, new, or six hundred bucks used and *plan* on things breaking (hubs, seatpost, cranks, rims, pedals). If I could only focus on one part of my bike to put lots of importance on: wheels. They will serve you long and well or cause buckets of heartache just when you don't want it (7 miles into the trail for example?). Other than that, replace things as they come up. *My* 2 1/2 cents on bikes for someone in your position since you asked: Hoss or some hardtail Giant and spend as much money as you can on wheel upgrades. Forks fail eventually and most (not all) OEM forks suck for clydes (fork would be my second upgrade since I like to know my bike will go where I point it...). Thomson seatposts rock, Chris King and Hadley hubs are the best, Race Face cranks? yep (I'm experimenting with Truvativ right now...), stay away from carbon bars for now, Sun rims are flat out the best (rhynolite xl; cheap and reliable!!!!).

    Sorry for the length, but I'm stuck in Gold Beach, OR for work and I hate this place...bored. Take care, good luck and if you find yourself in OR wanting to ride send me a message I'm always up for a ride with a fellow clyde! Enjoy the ride my brother in bacon.

    Brock...
    Are the wheels roundish? Ride it.

    Disciples Of Dirt, come ride with us.

  12. #12
    Brackish
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    I'm 6'2" and 240 right now. My all around play bike is the Iron Horse Yakuza Waka-Gashira. It's a big, burly hardtail that has withstood 10 months of abuse so far, including general trail riding (very nimble, particularly with clipless pedals), drops of up to 4' and some skatepark riding. I love it, and Performance usually has deals on them or their lower priced counterparts (Chimpira and something else). I ride the 19" frame, and it's pretty damn heavy but heavy duty as well.

  13. #13
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    crap... I may not be able to afford to get one this summer then

  14. #14
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    how about this one:
    2001 Rockhopper
    If I can at least get the full bike, I can worry about upgrading later
    what size frame do I need for a 32" inseam though?
    Someone mentioned betweeen 19 and 21"

  15. #15
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    Or this one
    Needs a new freewheel
    I fix BMWs, Saabs and Volkswagens... it can't be too hard to fix a bike...

  16. #16
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    Oh yeah...

    I forgot all about the Iron Horse hardtails. Must be too many blows to the head in my life...

    I even rode an Iron Horse Chimpira (Yakuza line?) to check out for a buddy who was looking to get into the sport and it was ok. I only have urban time on one, but it took some stairs and junk like that just fine. I'm still not a fan of factory wheels, but that bike was a good place to start (he went with a kona though). Like the above cat said performancbike.com seems to have the Iron Horses on sale pretty much all the time.

    Brock...

    edit: size? depends on inseam and toptube length and torso length. Some "fudging" can be done with stems and seatposts if something is an inch or so out of wack though; sometimes. It sounds like you are sort of in between. My dh bike was smaller (19") and my all around is bigger (21"). More to think about.
    Are the wheels roundish? Ride it.

    Disciples Of Dirt, come ride with us.

  17. #17
    Making fat cool since '71
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    No...

    Quote Originally Posted by Chapel
    Or this one
    Needs a new freewheel
    I fix BMWs, Saabs and Volkswagens... it can't be too hard to fix a bike...
    That fork blows, bad. It's an old bike (98 or so?) and who knows what's been done to it (the frame that is).

    Maybe the other one though.

    Brock...
    Are the wheels roundish? Ride it.

    Disciples Of Dirt, come ride with us.

  18. #18
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    How about the Specialized HardRocks

    This one is within my price range

    Boston Craigslist bikes
    Any and all suggestions welcome

  19. #19
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    Looks fine, size?
    Are the wheels roundish? Ride it.

    Disciples Of Dirt, come ride with us.

  20. #20
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    emailed him.
    Those Hardrocks seem to be a good value

  21. #21
    Your bike is incorrigible
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    Quote Originally Posted by klydesdale
    Personally, I don't think that a MTB that uses a Shimano FH-M475 rear hub is "really overbuilt"or "burly". The frame may be pretty beefy but if you keep cracking freewheel bodies and bending axles like I've done with every level of Shimano freehub I've tried, you're going to want a to upgrade to a stronger hub pretty soon. (And I'm "only" 250 and don't do any sort of real dirt jumping.)
    First, I built my own from the frame up, so I don't know all the components they put on the base or dee-lux versions.

    Secondly, I meant that the frame was overbuilt, and I'm sticking by that.

  22. #22
    Your bike is incorrigible
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    With a 32" inseam, I wouldn't go any bigger than a 19". However, I have to ask how you measured your inseam. Put it this way, I wear pants with a 33" inseam, but for bikes my inseam is 35".

    Hardrocks are good.

  23. #23
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    What bikes have steel frames instead of ally?

  24. #24
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    I rode a Large Hardrock today.
    Wow... I forgot how to ride. That was nerve wracking.

    I think it fits though. i just need a bigger seat.
    $499 new for a 2007 Hardrock Sport Disk

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chapel
    What bikes have steel frames instead of ally?
    The Surly Instigator.

  26. #26
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    Mmm, discs...definately shoot for discs if they can be fit in your price range. Even mechanicals are a big jump in performance from a rim brake. The Hardrock frames look pretty burly, I was considering one before I got the Waka.

  27. #27
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    sorry to bump a 2 year old thread. But I recently got back into riding again after finishing a minor resto of my 1995 GT Vertigo (BMX bike).
    now, I'm MUCH too heavy for it (still around 300lbs) and I'd like to get down to weight to get back on it. I'm also planning on changing to a job that is only 1.1 miles from my house and provides a company car, so I figure I can get on track to riding a nice bike back and forth to work, drop a couple of pounds and save money on gas all at the same time.

    So, without any previous knowledge, what new/used bikes should I be looking at

  28. #28
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    ... and if we just ...

    Hey Guys just discovered the thread. Good to see i'm not the only big boned person around riding a bike

    Here are my stats, 6'4 and 280lb.

    My ride is a 07 Demo 7, me and the Demo love fast downhill trails.

    Cheers
    Attached Images Attached Images

  29. #29
    Huge Bike Guy Person Man
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    i looked into getting a 24" hardrock just a few weeks back, though the tech at the shop said they were all sold out of the 2008s. I'm quite sure he said most everything 21+ was scarce, or non existent, so you'll need to look into that. so i got a 2008 rockhopper disc 23". VERY HAPPY with it. just got in after commuting home from my overnight job~!

    love the rock shox dart 3, i've always been a rigid rider until this. and people tell me this shock completely sucks, but coming from where i have, it's like riding on pillows.

  30. #30
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    I noticed a lot of bikes are coming with 29" wheels or a combination of 29/26. What are the benefits of these?
    I've only ever ridden either BMX or very early Mountain bikes (I stopped riding Mountain when I was like 15)

  31. #31
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    A great entry level bike that won't break the bank is the Specialized Hardrock. It doesn't come with super top notch parts, but they will do you fine........get the disc brake model and save your $$ for a strong wheelset for your first upgrade. Here is a link to a good set, strong for clydes, made for Freeride/Downhill/heavy AM use.

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/156...elset-2007.htm

    Add those to the price of a disc Hardrock and you are under $700 if you can find a 2007 closeout deal.

    The 2008 Hardrock is about $550 msrp, but you should be able to locate one in the $400 range at a LBS. Prolly need a size 21" XL.
    I am your exact size, waist, inseam, height and weight and have a 2005 Hardrock in XL as my commuter bike. It fits perfect.

    http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32573
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  32. #32
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    5'11", 250# here

    Rode an older GT last fall and for a few weeks this summer, a Palomar with some upgraded components. Supposedly that frame is rock solid and after the messing around I did with it I believe it.

    Just picked up a GF Pirahna this weekend, got some hand numbness and pain from the geometry. Gonna get some grips and gloves this week to see if that helps.

    The Tora fork it comes with is holding up well for me, only got it to bottom out once and I have it set pretty soft right now.

  33. #33
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    chapel, some of these guys are being bike snobs, I'm currently 6'5' and about 240 and have been riding about 20 years. the most i have weighed is 330. ther are several bikes out there that are great starters for clydes. If i was picking one it would be a diamondback response for you price range. the frame is super beefy and the components are good for the price range. the biggest thing for clydes is learning some simple maintenance like truing wheels and rebuilding forks. you'll have to take better care of everything on your bike compared to someone who weighs 175. Go to some shops and find a big employee most larger guys are very helpful to others. 500 is plenty for a good basic hardtail.

  34. #34
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    Hey there i just came across the thread and i am the same body type as you 6'3" and 290 and i just bought a Diamondback Response 08 the other week and am loving it. My only suggestion would be step up to the response sport with disc brakes to slow us big guys down. I paid $310 plus tax and warranty at *****. Its a good strong frame with good potential.

  35. #35
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    I never realized how many bike manufacturers there were now.
    I'm considering a few:
    Diamondback Response Sport
    Specialized Hardrock Comp Disc
    Felt Q620
    GT Avalanche 3.0 Disc
    Giant Yukon (I actually have a 1992 Yukon, but it would require a LOT of repairs)

    trying to get my list a little bigger for my LBS choices.

  36. #36
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    To add to the madness....

    I'm 6'2" 310, and purchased a Diamondback Response last Thursday, put my pedals on and rode less than 3 miles before grenading the freewheel on a climb... I got my bike for $252 from Sports Authority, it's a 2007 so I beat them up a little on price ;-) They said they'd fix it...so we'll see.

  37. #37
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    Which model Response?

  38. #38
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    It is...

    The base model, not the Sport or Comp...

    I really like the frame as it feels super beefy, I just have a feeling I'll be upgrading components as I kill them...

    Another thing that I'm sure has been covered over and over...go over the bike and tighten/tune/adjust everything before you ride.

    After they did their "bike check" and released the bike to me, I was in a hurry and rushed home...the forks were BACKWARDS!!! ugh

    Had an employee from Performance Bikes tell me about beyondbikes and jensonusa, as we were talking about upgrades to discs and they both have great deals on Hayes hydraulic kits right now, but I'd have to upgrade wheels as well... So I plan on dropping more weight, just as you plan too, and upgrade as budget allows and skill increases.

  39. #39
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    I am currently 6' and weigh 220lbs when I started a few months ago I was 260 lbs. I ride about 15 to 20 miles a day. I chose a diamondback response over the specialized hardrock sport. The diamondback was about $100 cheaper and had the same components as the specialized. The frame geometry is almost the same on both bikes. (plus I rode diamondback bmx bikes as a kid). I ride about half trails and half street and the bike has held up very well no problems at all. It feels as solid today as the day I got it. I had my LBS inspect it after 200 miles and no problems other than a little cable stretch. The forks are a little sluggish on both bikes. The response has the spinner OS Grind forks with 100mm travel. No lock out and the pre-load does not seem to make a lot of difference. Forks are spongy feeling but I have done a few 2 1/2 to 3 ft drops and not bottomed them out. Over all I think its a pretty sturdy bike and I am pretty happy with it.

  40. #40
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    Good job!

    The 2007 Response I got has the RST Gila T6 (I believe) fork, and the adjustment is vague at best.... congrats on the weight loss!!!

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