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  1. #1
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    Cool-blue Rhythm 6'4' 320 road bike under 1000 advice

    I'm a big guy I luv the dirt but in Indiana its muddy most of the year so want a road bike for those times also on a tight budget so under 1000 I have a good trek shop near by and a ok lbs in my twn that sells reighley looking to go as cheap as poss

  2. #2
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    Now is a good time to buy. End of model year sales. Go to your LBS and see what they have. If there's something in your size, should be able to get a base model road bike for well less than $1000. If nothing else, figure out your general size and start looking on CL. People will be unloading their current bikes for new ones. You can score a nice bike that's a few years old for quite a bit less than new.

  3. #3
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    I couldn't find anything that fit well new at any lbs's, I'm 6'5" 210lbs.

    I ended up with a used $80 1984 KHS Competition with a 68cm seat tube size. I stripped it, tossed all the original 10 speed (5 + 2) components, and rebuild it with a full Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed STI group I picked up off craigslist used for $100.
    I then bought a new crankset, Sram apex 180mm compact double, which came with a new external bearing bottom bracket.

    Then for wheels I went with a Mavic Open Pro wheel w/Shimano Dura-Ace hub for the rear, with a Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed cassette - picked up for ~$135 delivered off ebay used but in perfect shape - I think this wheel would work fine for your weight as it is regularly mentioned as being super strong.
    The groupset I got off craigslist came with an Easton Velomax Ascent front wheel but this barely works for my weight so be careful with wheels.

    I then added a set of Continental GP-4000s tires in 700x23 for the front, and michilen protek city tire in 700x35 for the rear for flat protection, some long reach brake calipers to help with adapting from the stock 27" wheels to the new 700c wheels, a new seatpost, some 3T ergo drop bars and new bar tape (original 1" quill stem reused), and a $10 factory take-off giant OEM road bike seat, and some commuter platform/spd pedals.

    I've put about 2500 miles on the bike in 2 years now, I ride it to work everyday and have been training with it to do my first tri on Catalina island this November, done a handful of 100+ mile rides and many 50+ mile rides.

    I think all in I'm around $500 into the bike, and a comparable new bike with a chro-moly steel frame and 9-speed dura-ace level components would cost $2000+ I think.


    (this shot is before I swapped crankset and front wheel, I ran the original 27" front wheel for awhile until the tire was worn out)
    2013 Trek/Gary Fisher Rumblefish Elite XXL/23"
    120mm 29er

    2004 Santa Cruz Bullitt XL White
    170mm 26er

  4. #4
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    Blind that looks killer how hard was it to put together I'm a chef and not very mechanical

  5. #5
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    Thanks, I really love my bike too!

    Everything literally just bolts onto a bike, they are really not that complicated - I'm an IT manager not a mechanic!

    I did have to buy a handful of tools
    - bike work stand (I made my own out of 1" galvanized pipe and pipe fittings from home depot and a very large potato chip bag looking spring clamp
    - bottom bracket tool for my new cranks (old was easy to remove with large pipe wrench),
    - cassette tool to install/remove/service the cassette
    - chain breaker to set the chain length properly
    ...any of these tools you should get for whatever bike you own anyways, servicing the cassette/bottom bracket/chain yourself is really easy and saves a ton of money.

    That's really it, the trickiest part was dialing in the derailleur's stop limits and then it was smooth sailing...well other than I suck at wrapping the handlebar with grip tape but I think that's more of an art, everything else I figured out how to do on my own watching videos on youtube and taking my time with the bike on the work stand.

    One thing to look out for, is my bike originally had stem shifters which is a good thing for this kind of conversion, as that means the frame had shifter cable stops brazed onto the frame already. If you find one with downtube shifters instead it's not the end of the world, you'll just need to by cable stop downtube adapters (easy to find on ebay for ~$5).

    and hey, if it every gives me trouble I'm not scared to take it apart again and figure out whatever is going wrong

    As I purchased it for $80-


    How the cockpit looks now, the dura-ace group I picked up has the nifty gear indicator for the rear gears even -


    9-speed dura-ace rear full setup -


    this shot shots the special long-reach brake calipers I needed to work right on my frame to go from 27" wheels to 700c modern wheels -


    I just like this shot because of how the paint pops in the sun
    2013 Trek/Gary Fisher Rumblefish Elite XXL/23"
    120mm 29er

    2004 Santa Cruz Bullitt XL White
    170mm 26er

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