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  1. #1
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    6'4" 280lbs....Dart 3 ?

    Hey guys.....i've been thinking...i have a 2008 TREK 6000 with a DART 3 shock. I weigh 280 and im 6'4". Is that enough shock for me...I dont do anything real agressive. Just mostly trail ride.

  2. #2
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    28mm stanchions and pure coil are a no go for a 280 lb trail rider.

    I've heard of lots of bigger riders having great luck with the Tora air models, a relatively small step up cost wise from the Dart 3.

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    Dart 3 is a bad choice for any weight.

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    Second that!

    We just picked up my wife's bike a GF Mamba and it comes with a Dart 3. It is fine for her since she is a new rider and I did not want to invest a ton in her first real bike. That being said, I am 275lbs and when I just messed around on her bike the fork would not work for any real riding at my weight.
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  5. #5
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    Rock Shox doesn't even make a spring stiff enough for 280lbs...you need a Tora with the Solo Air spring for your weight.

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    No doubt you will see a big improvement when/if you upgrade that fork. I rode the equivalent of a Dart (Manitou Axel) for about 2 years when I started out. So I'd say that should be the first thing you upgrade but you can get by with it.

    I personally was going through a lot of wheels at first, so I had to get a durable set of wheels before I started worrying about upgrades.

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    Good job!

    I'll be a dissenting voice. I unlike many here actually like my Dart 3!
    While I know that it will never be as nice or as plush as an air sprung fork, but it serves my needs without any problems. I'm a big guy and I'm not that easy on my equipment but it seems to be holding up fine under my abuse. If you have the option of upgrading go for it, but I think it will serve you just fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Rock Shox doesn't even make a spring stiff enough for 280lbs...you need a Tora with the Solo Air spring for your weight.
    I also have to disagree on this point. I've got the Red/Firm spring and it supports my 270lbs (w/o gear) just fine with less than a full turn on the pre-load adjustment.

    The spring kit can be had for around $20, google part number 114015039000
    and it takes less than 10min to swap out, just take off the top cap (with the pre-load adjuster), out with the old, in with the new, tighten everything back up and you're good to go.

  8. #8
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    double neg... how much sag are you getting with that setup?

    i'm running a tora 318 soloair and very happy with it... and weigh a bit more then you
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

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    Quote Originally Posted by donalson
    double neg... how much sag are you getting with that setup?

    i'm running a tora 318 soloair and very happy with it... and weigh a bit more then you
    Right about 20% I could dial in with the pre-load if i had to. If I had to I'm sure I could make it last until my next new bike in a couple of years.

  10. #10
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    So, if you are happy with things as is, you could ride the Dart as is until it breaks or you decide to upgrade. That's what I did.

    Or, if you blow through the travel too easilly, you could get a firmer spring.

    Although I found the Tora to be more plush, the biggest advantage was that it had less flex. The stiffness of the Tora let's me ride over rocks and stuff that would have twisted dart and caused me to endo.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenbsmith
    No doubt you will see a big improvement when/if you upgrade that fork. I rode the equivalent of a Dart (Manitou Axel) for about 2 years when I started out. So I'd say that should be the first thing you upgrade but you can get by with it.

    I personally was going through a lot of wheels at first, so I had to get a durable set of wheels before I started worrying about upgrades.
    This has been my experience as well. I started out on an Axel, it's not the best but it got me by. I expect that you'll have similar experience with the Dart3. Wheels have been a far bigger problem for me than forks. I'm also 6'4" and about 280.

    If the fork isn't bottoming out on every bump then I'd ride it until it starts to wear out.

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    Alright guys...i understand i can use a much better fork but i never notice mine bottoming out so i might just ride it out until i need one...it seems everyone agrees with the Rock Shox TORA 318 so i'll probably try that one. My new problem is that every time i go on a good ride i seem to break a rear spoke. I dont really beat my bike but i do get kind of aggressive....why is this happening ???

  13. #13
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    Two reasons for breaking spokes:
    1. Cheap spokes on Machine Built wheels. They are not even tensioned and cheap spokes break pretty easily

    2. Under or over tensioned wheels, see cause above

    Once you start breaking spokes, it will usually continue. So your options are one of these three:

    1. Have a competent mechanic rebuild your wheel with all new spokes (DT preferably)...assuming the rim is still in good shape.

    2. Have a competent mechanic rebuild your wheel with all new spokes and a new rim

    3. Get a whole new wheel, but get a handbuilt one using DT or Wheelsmith spokes.

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    Breaking spokes on every ride huh... We should almost start new thread...

    Who replaced the spokes that have already broken. Was it a tech who is good at wheel building?

    Maybe you could say a little more about what you mean by "kind of aggressive?"

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    I guess by kind of agressive i mean fast. I dont do any drops or anything like that. I take down hills with some speed and hit a few rocks here and there but i guess carrying 280lbs i hit the rocks a little harder than i think...im almost positive that the wheels on my bike are RANGER wheels. I dont think there bent either. Their in pretty good shape...Should i get better spokes and have the rear wheel re-done....its gettin to be a pain in the ass.

  16. #16
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    mtbnutt, I'm 6'3", 270lbs and kept breaking spokes near the nipples on my rear 29er DT 470 wheel. I had it re-strung with DT Swiss 14/15 spokes and brass nipples. I recently road on Rocky Ridge at Santa Teresa, which is...well, ROCKY as hell! No broken spokes, which made me a happy camper. So, it may cost a bit, but I think it would be a good investment for you.

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    Depending upon the rim you have, it may be worth replacing it as well if you get the wheel re-spoked. The labor cost will be the same for installing a new rim and spokes as it would for just new spokes.

    Rhyno Lite XL is a stout rim and you can get it for around $40 online:
    http://www.blueskycycling.com/view_p...eProductSearch

    If that is the wheel that came with the Trek 6000, I think it would be worth adding in a new rim.

  18. #18
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    funny you mention the Rhyno Lite XL. iI had that wheel before but sent it back because i couldnt use it with my spokes....So if i order that wheel what spokes do i need that will fit it ??? I have Avid BB5 disc brakes if that changes anything....I know nothing about wheels and spoke set-ups so you guys can help me out with that...Thanks

  19. #19
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    MTB wheels can have different numbers of spokes, with 32 and 36 being the most common number of spokes on mtb wheels. My first guess would be that the rim you mention was for a different number of spokes than the hub you have.

    Really, I think your best talking to whoever will actually build the wheel for you. I'd print off the page showing the rim you intended to buy and bring it in to him and ask him if it looked like a match. Maybe even ask him how much he'd charge for a rim like that, and if it's close to the online price + shipping, I'd buy it from the store.

    Some stores will give you a hard time about buying online, but that's pretty unrealistic of them. I've found a cool store near me where the employees understand that I buy from other sources, but support them by paying labor and buying some stuff from them.

    Once you've gone this far, it's worth thinking about buying pre-built wheels and, if they aren't handbuilt, having the tech check there tension after a couple of rides.

  20. #20
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    This post is perhaps a little late but I am in the same weight height class and have had
    no trouble with my Dart 3. I ride a Novara 29er and found the stock spring to be a little
    soft so I upgraded to the heavy spring and that made the action a whole lot stiffer. I also
    upgraded to the remote poplock. Neither of these upgrades took more than 15 minutes and
    I am NOT a bike tech. My only disappointment in the Dart 3 is that it is not rated for a disk
    bigger than a 160mm. My Avid Elixir brakes are due in today so that will no doubt help to
    stop the run away train I sometimes feel like on the trails. I have had some problems with
    my WTB speed disk front wheel staying true and needed to have the rim replaced once.
    REI warrantied the labor and the parts cost me $23. Since then I have not had a problem
    (knock on wood) but I am going to ask Santa for a Halo Freedom front Wheel for Christmas.
    Airbomb has a good price and they seem to be well respected on this forum.
    Last edited by Baine; 07-30-2009 at 12:23 PM.

  21. #21
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    Reading through this, I'm wondering, with all the Tora 318 Solo Air recommendations for us heavy people, I looked into it. I'm just about to drop bellow 300lb.

    Found a
    Brand New "Take Off" 2007 Rock Shox Tora 318 Solo Air w/Motion Control Bicycle Fork
    without POPLOC for $195 shipped. Is this a good deal? ... its 130mm travel

    I'm currently on my bikes default Suntour SF-XCM 100mm travel fork, bottoms out sometimes when I do harsh obstacles or descents, but I'm more worried about the flex I get when I corner and hit obstacles, as I can hear it rub on my brakes and its kind of scary sometimes. Its coil, so I cant upgrade to stiffer things.

    Its just that the $250+ tag on the Solo Air is *harsh* to say the least, I just cant afford it right now.
    Last edited by The Red; 07-30-2009 at 07:55 AM.
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  22. #22
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    That sounds like a great price. They are usually around $300.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baine
    That sounds like a great price. They are usually around $300.
    You dont see any catch? like that its 2007, or that it doesn't have Poploc? or is that a lockout thing that can be added? ... sorry for the noobishness.

    The full description reads:

    # 2007 Rock Shox Tora 318 Solo Air
    # Motion Control Damping with low-speeed compression adjust and lockout
    # External rebound adjust
    # Designed for 26" wheel
    # Disc Brake Only Compatibile
    # Disc Mounts: IS Mount
    # Steerer Tube Length: 190mm
    # Travel: 130mm
    # Weight: 4.75lbs
    # Upper Tubes: 32mm Steel upper tubes
    # Color: Black
    # DOES NOT COME WITH POPLOC
    Think I should immediately buy for $195 shipped? its 130mm travel, the best next to it I can find is a new 2008 Tora 318 Solo Air 100mm for $250 at PP.. I am just really overly wary of being ripped off.
    Last edited by The Red; 07-30-2009 at 08:45 AM.
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  24. #24
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    [QUOTE=The Red] I am just really overly wary of being ripped off.[QUOTE]

    There is always a risk.

    Is it the correct size for your steerer tube?

    If I can add poplock to a dart 3 surely it can be done to a Tora (?)

    a 2007 is older tech but like me, money is probably thin right now. Do the best that you
    can with what you have. A good fork upgrade on a 29er is over $400 and they don't make a lot of options except expensive.

  25. #25
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    [QUOTE=Baine][QUOTE=The Red] I am just really overly wary of being ripped off.

    There is always a risk.

    Is it the correct size for your steerer tube?

    If I can add poplock to a dart 3 surely it can be done to a Tora (?)

    a 2007 is older tech but like me, money is probably thin right now. Do the best that you
    can with what you have. A good fork upgrade on a 29er is over $400 and they don't make a lot of options except expensive.
    I'm having trouble finding the measurements for my '08 Haro Escape Sport Steerer Tube online. I might have to go home and measure.

    And what "older tech" should I be concerned with?
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  26. #26
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    Older tech is not bad. It's just not as new and shiny as what is available today. What
    was "state of the art" last year is often today's bargain. The Avid Elixirs I just bought are
    last years model but I got them shipped for $86. If they worked great last year then they
    will work great this year. I'm just saying that a 2007 model is better than what you have
    now and don't worry about it.

  27. #27
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    I wouldn't worry about it being 2007. My biggest concern would be the steerer tube length, that would be too short for my bike. You could add a spacer to bring it down to 100mm of travel if you desired...

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvibert
    I wouldn't worry about it being 2007. My biggest concern would be the steerer tube length, that would be too short for my bike. You could add a spacer to bring it down to 100mm of travel if you desired...
    You know, sites that sell the fork, like PP, dont even have steerer tube length listed. This one just happened to have it. I dont know why retail it has no listing but when pulled off another bike it does... think it was a custom fork build for some bike type they pulled it off of?

    Just to be 100% sure, I'm measuring my bike's current steerer tube length from where the fork first appears below the tube, to the top of the nut I use to adjust the tension on my threadless setup by moving the star nut up or down.. correct?
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  29. #29
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    I wish I could tell you the what the measure points are but I believe that new retail forks
    come with a long tube that needs to be cut down to fit.

  30. #30
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    I have heard the Tora is a great Clyde fork.
    The dart is floppy, if you ride hard the stiffnes of the Tora will save you from a ton of crashes.

    Enjoy your new ride

  31. #31
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    I would not rush to buy that fork, unless you are in a hurry for some reason. When I search ebay on completed listings I see Tora 318 Solo Airs going from $159-179, so that appears to be a reasonable, but not exceptional deal. Better to take a little more time and be sure you know your steerer tube length and if you're patient you may find a better deal.

    Another reason to wait, do you really want a 130mm fork? Sure you can change the spacers, but where will you get them and are you prepared to take the fork apart, which is required to change spacers, or pay someone else to do it. You need to figure all that out.

    New, never installed on a bike, forks come with long steerer tubes sure to fit.

    You'll see a lot of parts on ebay that were pulled off new bikes. With forks, the steerer tube was usually cut down, so you have to be sure it is long enough for your bike. Measure from the bottom of the steerer tuber which rest on the crown of the fork, to the top of the steerer tube that is even with the top of where the stem clamps on.

    Pop-lock just let's you lock the fork out from the handlebars--mine's got one, but I could do without or, as pointed out by Baine, buy and install yourself.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenbsmith
    I would not rush to buy that fork, unless you are in a hurry for some reason. When I search ebay on completed listings I see Tora 318 Solo Airs going from $159-179, so that appears to be a reasonable, but not exceptional deal. Better to take a little more time and be sure you know your steerer tube length and if you're patient you may find a better deal.

    Another reason to wait, do you really want a 130mm fork? Sure you can change the spacers, but where will you get them and are you prepared to take the fork apart, which is required to change spacers, or pay someone else to do it. You need to figure all that out.

    New, never installed on a bike, forks come with long steerer tubes sure to fit.

    You'll see a lot of parts on ebay that were pulled off new bikes. With forks, the steerer tube was usually cut down, so you have to be sure it is long enough for your bike. Measure from the bottom of the steerer tuber which rest on the crown of the fork, to the top of the steerer tube that is even with the top of where the stem clamps on.

    Pop-lock just let's you lock the fork out from the handlebars--mine's got one, but I could do without or, as pointed out by Baine, buy and install yourself.
    That is a lot of useful information man, thank you. I have never bought / installed a tube.

    I do not have an implement, other than a hand saw, that could accurately cut a fork tube, so I presume thats a bike shop service I will need to pay for. That $179 Buy-it-Now deal you saw on eBay is the cheapest I can find, its the 190mm fork that was pulled form a new bike.. after shipping its $195.

    Where would you say I should watch for a hot deal on a Tora 318 Solo Air?

    I own a 100mm travel bike.. is there a reason I would not want a 130mm travel bike? does not not simply mean a cushier ride on a drop and better clearance on obstacle engagement?
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  33. #33
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    Minor point here, but if only one number is given with a fork it usually refers to travel, not steerer tube length, so that fork is 130mm travel, 190mm steerer tube.

    Paying a bike shop to do the install is a good choice. I lucked out and had a friend from the local mtb club do it for free. Just be sure you get someone who really knows what they are doing. I had my steerer tube cut a couple of mms longer than the original one to try riding with a taller tube, knowing I could cut it down again to make it shorter, but you can never make it longer.

    I think the best bargains are probably found in sales of local used forks. I see great deals on my local mtb club forum. You might even make a wanted to buy post seeking a lightly use 100mm travel air fork. After that, ebay. Use all the standard precautions when ebaying. Plus make sure steerer tube is long enough and it is compatible with your current brakes (rim versus disk) and front axle (standard quick release versus a 15mm, etc…).

    Using a fork that is longer than the one currently installed—in this case going from 100 to 130mm travel—will affect the handling of your bike somewhat. The longer fork will increase the distance between the front-wheel-axle and head tube. This in turn will raise the headtube which will decrease the angle of both head and seattubes. Decreasing headtube angle will slow steering. Decreasing seattube angle will move the seat backwards, but you may be able to compensate by moving the adjusting seat position on the seattube. This may all sound worse than it really is; if you only raise the headtube a little, it won't change handling much and you may prefer the new handling.

    You might want to look at Manitou Minutes also. They also have 32mm stanchions.

  34. #34
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    The Tora 318 Solo Air can be configured to be at 80mm, 100mm or 130mm of travel. They come from the factory set at 100mm which would be fine for your bike given it came with a 100mm travel fork.

    The thing I would be concerned about is the length of the steerer tube. If you buy a fork that was previously installed, the steerer tube was likely cut down. They come new at over 10" long. This is more than long enough for just about any frame.

    The one that comes with a 190mm steerer tube (190mm = 7.4"+/-) may very well be too short because it hast to fit through the headtube, the headset (bearings at the top and bottom of the headtube) and still have enough to mount a stem which is usually a couple inches more than what is needed to go through the headtube and headset. 7.4" would be cutting that very close on many average size (ie; medium) frames. It wouldn't come close to fitting on any bike I ride (all of the XL variety) so be VERY mindful of that.

    If you are thinking of getting the Tora 318 Solo Air, it's a great choice for us plus-sized characters and well worth the additional price it will cost over any model Dart.

    As for cutting the steerer tube, it can be done just fine with a hacksaw. Just take a file to it to square it off more or less (not ultra critical to have it PERFECT) and to take off the burrs. You will have to remove the bearing race from the previous fork and re-install it on the new fork. It will be harder to seat the bearing race than it is to cut the steerer tube, so you may want to take that to the LBS to have done. Takes less than a minute, but you should just be happy to pay them $10 to save you any trouble it would have taken you to do it without proper tools.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenbsmith
    Minor point here, but if only one number is given with a fork it usually refers to travel, not steerer tube length, so that fork is 130mm travel, 190mm steerer tube.

    Paying a bike shop to do the install is a good choice. I lucked out and had a friend from the local mtb club do it for free. Just be sure you get someone who really knows what they are doing. I had my steerer tube cut a couple of mms longer than the original one to try riding with a taller tube, knowing I could cut it down again to make it shorter, but you can never make it longer.

    I think the best bargains are probably found in sales of local used forks. I see great deals on my local mtb club forum. You might even make a wanted to buy post seeking a lightly use 100mm travel air fork. After that, ebay. Use all the standard precautions when ebaying. Plus make sure steerer tube is long enough and it is compatible with your current brakes (rim versus disk) and front axle (standard quick release versus a 15mm, etc…).

    Using a fork that is longer than the one currently installed—in this case going from 100 to 130mm travel—will affect the handling of your bike somewhat. The longer fork will increase the distance between the front-wheel-axle and head tube. This in turn will raise the headtube which will decrease the angle of both head and seattubes. Decreasing headtube angle will slow steering. Decreasing seattube angle will move the seat backwards, but you may be able to compensate by moving the adjusting seat position on the seattube. This may all sound worse than it really is; if you only raise the headtube a little, it won't change handling much and you may prefer the new handling.

    You might want to look at Manitou Minutes also. They also have 32mm stanchions.
    Thank you. Which Manitou Minutes would you say are comprable to the Tora 318 Solo Air? .. I see they both have great reviews, but which for a circa-300lb clyde?

    In the end, that 190mm tube was not enough, I ride a 21" '08 Haro Escape Sport, I'm 6'2".

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj
    The Tora 318 Solo Air can be configured to be at 80mm, 100mm or 130mm of travel. They come from the factory set at 100mm which would be fine for your bike given it came with a 100mm travel fork.

    The thing I would be concerned about is the length of the steerer tube. If you buy a fork that was previously installed, the steerer tube was likely cut down. They come new at over 10" long. This is more than long enough for just about any frame.

    The one that comes with a 190mm steerer tube (190mm = 7.4"+/-) may very well be too short because it hast to fit through the headtube, the headset (bearings at the top and bottom of the headtube) and still have enough to mount a stem which is usually a couple inches more than what is needed to go through the headtube and headset. 7.4" would be cutting that very close on many average size (ie; medium) frames. It wouldn't come close to fitting on any bike I ride (all of the XL variety) so be VERY mindful of that.

    If you are thinking of getting the Tora 318 Solo Air, it's a great choice for us plus-sized characters and well worth the additional price it will cost over any model Dart.

    As for cutting the steerer tube, it can be done just fine with a hacksaw. Just take a file to it to square it off more or less (not ultra critical to have it PERFECT) and to take off the burrs. You will have to remove the bearing race from the previous fork and re-install it on the new fork. It will be harder to seat the bearing race than it is to cut the steerer tube, so you may want to take that to the LBS to have done. Takes less than a minute, but you should just be happy to pay them $10 to save you any trouble it would have taken you to do it without proper tools.
    Ok, so the new $250 Tora 318 Solo Air from PP can be adjusted to 130mm travel, and I can have the tube length I need. Is what I gather from your post, no?
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  36. #36
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    im 275 i swear by boxxer. a single crown is a real bad idea unless your riding a trail thats virtually like a road.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by nogod
    im 275 i swear by boxxer. a single crown is a real bad idea unless your riding a trail thats virtually like a road.
    You're kidding right? The one from PP has a steel steerer and all Toras have 32mm steel stanchions. I was 275lbs when I got this fork and I've ridden the piss out of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by The Red
    Thank you. Which Manitou Minutes would you say are comprable to the Tora 318 Solo Air? .. I see they both have great reviews, but which for a circa-300lb clyde?

    In the end, that 190mm tube was not enough, I ride a 21" '08 Haro Escape Sport, I'm 6'2".?
    I have had three older Manitou Minute 1:00 forks. I'd take the Tora 318 Solo Air anyday.

    I had a feeling the 190mm steerer would be too short.


    Quote Originally Posted by The Red
    Ok, so the new $250 Tora 318 Solo Air from PP can be adjusted to 130mm travel, and I can have the tube length I need. Is what I gather from your post, no?
    The steerer tube comes at 265mm which is 10.4". I still use a couple spacers with my 23" hardtail Kona frame.

    It says it is a 2008 model with "All Travel" , so it should be adjustable to 80mm, 100mm or 130mm. To go to 130mm, you would just have to remove the internal spacers. To get it to 80mm, you would have to buy the additional spacer(s) and install them. They come at 100mm.

    I have the same fork, but have not yet changed the travel. I am 6'5" and weigh about 265 and this fork is plenty of fork for someone my size. I have been as much as 300lbs and would not hesitate to use it at that size.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj
    You're kidding right? The one from PP has a steel steerer and all Toras have 32mm steel stanchions. I was 275lbs when I got this fork and I've ridden the piss out of it.



    I have had three older Manitou Minute 1:00 forks. I'd take the Tora 318 Solo Air anyday.

    I had a feeling the 190mm steerer would be too short.




    The steerer tube comes at 265mm which is 10.4". I still use a couple spacers with my 23" hardtail Kona frame.

    It says it is a 2008 model with "All Travel" , so it should be adjustable to 80mm, 100mm or 130mm. To go to 130mm, you would just have to remove the internal spacers. To get it to 80mm, you would have to buy the additional spacer(s) and install them. They come at 100mm.

    I have the same fork, but have not yet changed the travel. I am 6'5" and weigh about 265 and this fork is plenty of fork for someone my size. I have been as much as 300lbs and would not hesitate to use it at that size.
    Ok its a plan then, when this Suntour finally gives out, and hopefully I dont die, this is the fork I'm getting! Although its already making disturbing clicking noises and flexing to cause disk rub under my weight at higher speed.
    Be excellent to each other.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj
    The Tora 318 Solo Air can be configured to be at 80mm, 100mm or 130mm of travel. They come from the factory set at 100mm which would be fine for your bike given it came with a 100mm travel fork.

    The thing I would be concerned about is the length of the steerer tube. If you buy a fork that was previously installed, the steerer tube was likely cut down. They come new at over 10" long. This is more than long enough for just about any frame.

    The one that comes with a 190mm steerer tube (190mm = 7.4"+/-) may very well be too short because it hast to fit through the headtube, the headset (bearings at the top and bottom of the headtube) and still have enough to mount a stem which is usually a couple inches more than what is needed to go through the headtube and headset. 7.4" would be cutting that very close on many average size (ie; medium) frames. It wouldn't come close to fitting on any bike I ride (all of the XL variety) so be VERY mindful of that.

    If you are thinking of getting the Tora 318 Solo Air, it's a great choice for us plus-sized characters and well worth the additional price it will cost over any model Dart.

    As for cutting the steerer tube, it can be done just fine with a hacksaw. Just take a file to it to square it off more or less (not ultra critical to have it PERFECT) and to take off the burrs. You will have to remove the bearing race from the previous fork and re-install it on the new fork. It will be harder to seat the bearing race than it is to cut the steerer tube, so you may want to take that to the LBS to have done. Takes less than a minute, but you should just be happy to pay them $10 to save you any trouble it would have taken you to do it without proper tools.
    thanx for the info! i stand corrected! lol i just look at single crown though and they dont look strong. i guess some are...
    Quote Originally Posted by a stoned guy with a beer in his hand eyeballing your sisters bike
    "i fit my bike to fit me;not for looks...nice did you buy that bike from jc whitney?" Stoner Island 1984

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Red
    Ok, so the new $250 Tora 318 Solo Air from PP can be adjusted to 130mm travel, and I can have the tube length I need. Is what I gather from your post, no?
    If your bike came stock with a 100mm fork, it was probably designed for a 100mm fork so i'd stick with that. Or, at least try it at 100mm before going up to 130mm. OTOH, some people do like the longer fork.

    I was considering a Minute when I got my Tora, but don't remember particular models. As I recall at least some Minutes come with 32mm stanchions--many entry level forks come with 28 or 30 mm stanchions which aren't as stout.

  41. #41
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    Got sick of my sun tour bottoming out, bought the 318 Solo Air like I said, now just debating whether to switch it from 100mm to 130mm travel, and how much PSI does it need now that I'm 285 (thats right, only 4 weeks ago I posted at 299.2 ) .. I went on a nuts, life changing vacation in NZ that I gotta post about.
    Be excellent to each other.

  42. #42
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    Way to go on that major weight loss. I've only managed to loose another 5 to get
    down to 280.

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    Wow! You dropped it like a rock.

    Regarding switching travel on the fork, the best answer to that depends on a number of things. What amount of travel was your bike designed for? What sort of riding do you do? This could make a nice new thread.

    I think reasonable people can probably come down on either side of the issue. My opinion is to leave it at 100mm. I have some concerns that the fork may not be as strong or stiff if stretched out to 130mm--though this is just a guess not based on experience. Also, your bike is probably designed around a 100mm fork. Going longer may void warrantee and it will make some, probably minor, changes to handling characteristics. Maybe a little slower to turn, a little harder to keep the front wheel down on steep uphills, but a little more stable on the downhill.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tenbsmith
    Wow! You dropped it like a rock.

    Regarding switching travel on the fork, the best answer to that depends on a number of things. What amount of travel was your bike designed for? What sort of riding do you do? This could make a nice new thread.

    I think reasonable people can probably come down on either side of the issue. My opinion is to leave it at 100mm. I have some concerns that the fork may not be as strong or stiff if stretched out to 130mm--though this is just a guess not based on experience. Also, your bike is probably designed around a 100mm fork. Going longer may void warrantee and it will make some, probably minor, changes to handling characteristics. Maybe a little slower to turn, a little harder to keep the front wheel down on steep uphills, but a little more stable on the downhill.
    I started Mid-April on a craigslist mtb @ 330 lb.. I got the bug, got an 08' Haro Escape Sport, upgraded the brakes to 2x 203 BB7, fork to Solo Air 318, and got a lot of gear to make the ride better, like the Ergon grips, fox gloves, camelbak backpack.. and its been an awesome trip. To be at 285lb and dropping is just so great of a feeling. I need to drop to less than 220lb so I can go back to NZ and do the skydive like I intended, but thats a long story, and its what giving me this goal.

    As for the fork, Its limit is 220lb, but I read somewhere that you could fill it with more, but what kind of PSI do I put in for 285lb ?
    Be excellent to each other.

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    I weigh 240, so I just extrapolated the chart on the fork up to that point for me. It shows adding a certain amount of pressure for each increase in weight. Maybe a new thread "Max pressure for Tora 318." I know people here are running it at pressure well above those posted on the fork itself.

    The Haro Escape in 2009 runs a 120mm fork. If the 2008 is the same, it might be a good idea to run the Tora at 130mm.

  46. #46
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    Im 336 lbs and 6'2" and ride a dart 3. It works fine, and It hold me up completely fine. It is very very far from a no go. I do some pretty fast and really rocky DH.

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