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  1. #1
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    6'4" 280lbs....Dart 3 ?

    Hey guys.....i've been thinking...i have a 2008 TREK 6000 with a DART 3 shock. I weigh 280 and im 6'4". Is that enough shock for me...I dont do anything real agressive. Just mostly trail ride.

  2. #2
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    28mm stanchions and pure coil are a no go for a 280 lb trail rider.

    I've heard of lots of bigger riders having great luck with the Tora air models, a relatively small step up cost wise from the Dart 3.

  3. #3
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    Dart 3 is a bad choice for any weight.

  4. #4
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    Second that!

    We just picked up my wife's bike a GF Mamba and it comes with a Dart 3. It is fine for her since she is a new rider and I did not want to invest a ton in her first real bike. That being said, I am 275lbs and when I just messed around on her bike the fork would not work for any real riding at my weight.
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  5. #5
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    Rock Shox doesn't even make a spring stiff enough for 280lbs...you need a Tora with the Solo Air spring for your weight.

  6. #6
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    No doubt you will see a big improvement when/if you upgrade that fork. I rode the equivalent of a Dart (Manitou Axel) for about 2 years when I started out. So I'd say that should be the first thing you upgrade but you can get by with it.

    I personally was going through a lot of wheels at first, so I had to get a durable set of wheels before I started worrying about upgrades.

  7. #7
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    Good job!

    I'll be a dissenting voice. I unlike many here actually like my Dart 3!
    While I know that it will never be as nice or as plush as an air sprung fork, but it serves my needs without any problems. I'm a big guy and I'm not that easy on my equipment but it seems to be holding up fine under my abuse. If you have the option of upgrading go for it, but I think it will serve you just fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Rock Shox doesn't even make a spring stiff enough for 280lbs...you need a Tora with the Solo Air spring for your weight.
    I also have to disagree on this point. I've got the Red/Firm spring and it supports my 270lbs (w/o gear) just fine with less than a full turn on the pre-load adjustment.

    The spring kit can be had for around $20, google part number 114015039000
    and it takes less than 10min to swap out, just take off the top cap (with the pre-load adjuster), out with the old, in with the new, tighten everything back up and you're good to go.

  8. #8
    Fat boy Mod Moderator
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    double neg... how much sag are you getting with that setup?

    i'm running a tora 318 soloair and very happy with it... and weigh a bit more then you
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by donalson
    double neg... how much sag are you getting with that setup?

    i'm running a tora 318 soloair and very happy with it... and weigh a bit more then you
    Right about 20% I could dial in with the pre-load if i had to. If I had to I'm sure I could make it last until my next new bike in a couple of years.

  10. #10
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    So, if you are happy with things as is, you could ride the Dart as is until it breaks or you decide to upgrade. That's what I did.

    Or, if you blow through the travel too easilly, you could get a firmer spring.

    Although I found the Tora to be more plush, the biggest advantage was that it had less flex. The stiffness of the Tora let's me ride over rocks and stuff that would have twisted dart and caused me to endo.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenbsmith
    No doubt you will see a big improvement when/if you upgrade that fork. I rode the equivalent of a Dart (Manitou Axel) for about 2 years when I started out. So I'd say that should be the first thing you upgrade but you can get by with it.

    I personally was going through a lot of wheels at first, so I had to get a durable set of wheels before I started worrying about upgrades.
    This has been my experience as well. I started out on an Axel, it's not the best but it got me by. I expect that you'll have similar experience with the Dart3. Wheels have been a far bigger problem for me than forks. I'm also 6'4" and about 280.

    If the fork isn't bottoming out on every bump then I'd ride it until it starts to wear out.

  12. #12
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    Alright guys...i understand i can use a much better fork but i never notice mine bottoming out so i might just ride it out until i need one...it seems everyone agrees with the Rock Shox TORA 318 so i'll probably try that one. My new problem is that every time i go on a good ride i seem to break a rear spoke. I dont really beat my bike but i do get kind of aggressive....why is this happening ???

  13. #13
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    Two reasons for breaking spokes:
    1. Cheap spokes on Machine Built wheels. They are not even tensioned and cheap spokes break pretty easily

    2. Under or over tensioned wheels, see cause above

    Once you start breaking spokes, it will usually continue. So your options are one of these three:

    1. Have a competent mechanic rebuild your wheel with all new spokes (DT preferably)...assuming the rim is still in good shape.

    2. Have a competent mechanic rebuild your wheel with all new spokes and a new rim

    3. Get a whole new wheel, but get a handbuilt one using DT or Wheelsmith spokes.

  14. #14
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    Breaking spokes on every ride huh... We should almost start new thread...

    Who replaced the spokes that have already broken. Was it a tech who is good at wheel building?

    Maybe you could say a little more about what you mean by "kind of aggressive?"

  15. #15
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    I guess by kind of agressive i mean fast. I dont do any drops or anything like that. I take down hills with some speed and hit a few rocks here and there but i guess carrying 280lbs i hit the rocks a little harder than i think...im almost positive that the wheels on my bike are RANGER wheels. I dont think there bent either. Their in pretty good shape...Should i get better spokes and have the rear wheel re-done....its gettin to be a pain in the ass.

  16. #16
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    mtbnutt, I'm 6'3", 270lbs and kept breaking spokes near the nipples on my rear 29er DT 470 wheel. I had it re-strung with DT Swiss 14/15 spokes and brass nipples. I recently road on Rocky Ridge at Santa Teresa, which is...well, ROCKY as hell! No broken spokes, which made me a happy camper. So, it may cost a bit, but I think it would be a good investment for you.

  17. #17
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    Depending upon the rim you have, it may be worth replacing it as well if you get the wheel re-spoked. The labor cost will be the same for installing a new rim and spokes as it would for just new spokes.

    Rhyno Lite XL is a stout rim and you can get it for around $40 online:
    http://www.blueskycycling.com/view_p...eProductSearch

    If that is the wheel that came with the Trek 6000, I think it would be worth adding in a new rim.

  18. #18
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    funny you mention the Rhyno Lite XL. iI had that wheel before but sent it back because i couldnt use it with my spokes....So if i order that wheel what spokes do i need that will fit it ??? I have Avid BB5 disc brakes if that changes anything....I know nothing about wheels and spoke set-ups so you guys can help me out with that...Thanks

  19. #19
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    MTB wheels can have different numbers of spokes, with 32 and 36 being the most common number of spokes on mtb wheels. My first guess would be that the rim you mention was for a different number of spokes than the hub you have.

    Really, I think your best talking to whoever will actually build the wheel for you. I'd print off the page showing the rim you intended to buy and bring it in to him and ask him if it looked like a match. Maybe even ask him how much he'd charge for a rim like that, and if it's close to the online price + shipping, I'd buy it from the store.

    Some stores will give you a hard time about buying online, but that's pretty unrealistic of them. I've found a cool store near me where the employees understand that I buy from other sources, but support them by paying labor and buying some stuff from them.

    Once you've gone this far, it's worth thinking about buying pre-built wheels and, if they aren't handbuilt, having the tech check there tension after a couple of rides.

  20. #20
    Clydesdale 29er
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    This post is perhaps a little late but I am in the same weight height class and have had
    no trouble with my Dart 3. I ride a Novara 29er and found the stock spring to be a little
    soft so I upgraded to the heavy spring and that made the action a whole lot stiffer. I also
    upgraded to the remote poplock. Neither of these upgrades took more than 15 minutes and
    I am NOT a bike tech. My only disappointment in the Dart 3 is that it is not rated for a disk
    bigger than a 160mm. My Avid Elixir brakes are due in today so that will no doubt help to
    stop the run away train I sometimes feel like on the trails. I have had some problems with
    my WTB speed disk front wheel staying true and needed to have the rim replaced once.
    REI warrantied the labor and the parts cost me $23. Since then I have not had a problem
    (knock on wood) but I am going to ask Santa for a Halo Freedom front Wheel for Christmas.
    Airbomb has a good price and they seem to be well respected on this forum.
    Last edited by Baine; 07-30-2009 at 12:23 PM.

  21. #21
    I'll take you there.
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    Reading through this, I'm wondering, with all the Tora 318 Solo Air recommendations for us heavy people, I looked into it. I'm just about to drop bellow 300lb.

    Found a
    Brand New "Take Off" 2007 Rock Shox Tora 318 Solo Air w/Motion Control Bicycle Fork
    without POPLOC for $195 shipped. Is this a good deal? ... its 130mm travel

    I'm currently on my bikes default Suntour SF-XCM 100mm travel fork, bottoms out sometimes when I do harsh obstacles or descents, but I'm more worried about the flex I get when I corner and hit obstacles, as I can hear it rub on my brakes and its kind of scary sometimes. Its coil, so I cant upgrade to stiffer things.

    Its just that the $250+ tag on the Solo Air is *harsh* to say the least, I just cant afford it right now.
    Last edited by The Red; 07-30-2009 at 07:55 AM.
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  22. #22
    Clydesdale 29er
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    That sounds like a great price. They are usually around $300.

  23. #23
    I'll take you there.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baine
    That sounds like a great price. They are usually around $300.
    You dont see any catch? like that its 2007, or that it doesn't have Poploc? or is that a lockout thing that can be added? ... sorry for the noobishness.

    The full description reads:

    # 2007 Rock Shox Tora 318 Solo Air
    # Motion Control Damping with low-speeed compression adjust and lockout
    # External rebound adjust
    # Designed for 26" wheel
    # Disc Brake Only Compatibile
    # Disc Mounts: IS Mount
    # Steerer Tube Length: 190mm
    # Travel: 130mm
    # Weight: 4.75lbs
    # Upper Tubes: 32mm Steel upper tubes
    # Color: Black
    # DOES NOT COME WITH POPLOC
    Think I should immediately buy for $195 shipped? its 130mm travel, the best next to it I can find is a new 2008 Tora 318 Solo Air 100mm for $250 at PP.. I am just really overly wary of being ripped off.
    Last edited by The Red; 07-30-2009 at 08:45 AM.
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  24. #24
    Clydesdale 29er
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    [QUOTE=The Red] I am just really overly wary of being ripped off.[QUOTE]

    There is always a risk.

    Is it the correct size for your steerer tube?

    If I can add poplock to a dart 3 surely it can be done to a Tora (?)

    a 2007 is older tech but like me, money is probably thin right now. Do the best that you
    can with what you have. A good fork upgrade on a 29er is over $400 and they don't make a lot of options except expensive.

  25. #25
    I'll take you there.
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    [QUOTE=Baine][QUOTE=The Red] I am just really overly wary of being ripped off.

    There is always a risk.

    Is it the correct size for your steerer tube?

    If I can add poplock to a dart 3 surely it can be done to a Tora (?)

    a 2007 is older tech but like me, money is probably thin right now. Do the best that you
    can with what you have. A good fork upgrade on a 29er is over $400 and they don't make a lot of options except expensive.
    I'm having trouble finding the measurements for my '08 Haro Escape Sport Steerer Tube online. I might have to go home and measure.

    And what "older tech" should I be concerned with?
    Be excellent to each other.

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