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  1. #1
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    200mm crank ?s 38inch inseam am I really a candidate

    I am looking at ordering some 200 mm cranks for a few reasons,do the people with a real long inseam like them and what are the advantages to disadvantages? I am more than likely going to end up building a custom framed bike and would like to know if you transfer them from one bike to another because they are a keeper for you and what would be the best style bottom bracket.

    My feet ride at least a half inch off the side of my pedals because my cranks and crank bottom bracket is to narrow. I need to figure a fix for this as well.

    I am looking at getting 200mm cranks and then running a 62 tooth ring up front so I can get off of the 11 tooth sprocket in the back and ride in the 13 n 14 tooth range as.I am losing power because of the tight chain circle and I am tired of replacing a 11 tooth sprocket every month.

    Any help would be great, thanks alot.

  2. #2
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    If you're going custom, then there are plenty of options for the bottom bracket. You're probably at 73mm wide now, but you can go up around 100mm. I don't know if you searched around for one, but there are some sites (Sheldon Brown among others) that talk about how long cranks need to be for different inseams. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I can barely get away with 175mm, but I have been thinking of trying to find some longer ones.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply,

    I am a real hard fit, I talked to a builder today and he said I was a real rare build that would be hard to fit and a custom frame might be necessary.

    With my leg length I should be at least 6 foot 8 or so but I am only 6 foot 4 so this crazy bike build is a real thing.

    I want one bike to do all.

  4. #4
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    You're not that difficult

    I've got the same inseam as you. I'm an inch taller too at 6'5". There are more than a few manufacturers out there offering up equipment for us big fellas that fit well. I did build myself a custom frame though, but only because I wanted a long enough head tube, which is the chief area that the mass manufacturers neglect in the 26er world. Most mass produced 29ers are perfectly fine in the head tube department.



    '07 XL Salsa El Mariachi The TT length is 25 inches. The ST length is just under 24" There is 8 1/2 inches of post showing



    My custom 26er. Since this photo was taken I lowered the bars by more than an inch, removed a spacer, and switched to a 0* 110mm stem from the 6* 100mm in the photo.
    For a really tall guy, it is a good feeling to be able to lower things to get the fit right. The TT is 25 1/2'', the ST is 24" and the head tube is 185 mm, and like the Salsa, 8 1/2 " of post is showing.

    As for cranks, 180s should be fine for you. I've got 3 bikes and 2 have 175s and the custom orange 26er has 180s. The 180s do feel like I've got more leverage, but I've had zero problems with the 175s. I've been riding half seriously for more than 15 years without an issue.

    You should stay away from extra wide BB shells and bottom brackets because you will totally screw up the bike's chain line. You need this to be between 47.5 and 50 mm measures from the middle ring to the centre-line of the frame. If your feet are too narrow either get pedal extensions or get cranks with a wider Q measurement.

    Drew
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  5. #5
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    Thanks Dru , nice bikes.

    I want to run 200s so It can get me lower to the ground because I raised the bike 1.5 inches with 29s.

  6. #6
    dru
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    I'm under the impression you've built up some kind of frankenbike, judging by your other thread. If you've done that, by somehow running 29er wheels/tires on a 26er or hybrid frame, the end result will not work well at all.

    I checked out what you've built up on your other thread. You are having problems because you've got the wrong wheels for that frame. You simply cannot make a 26er handle correctly running 29er rims and tires.

    A 29er and 26er frame use completely different #s (the length and various angles of the tubing) to work with the wheels they are designed for. Look at my 2 bikes; do the frames look the same? I can tell you that they fit me identically to within 1cm. Obviously they are constructed completely differently to arrive at the same fit.

    Get the correct wheels for your bike and the handling will improve night and day.

    A quick question; what are you running for a drivetrain? You seem to be talking some weird version of 62 x 11 single speed. A 62 tooth ring will be almost impossible to find btw. If you change how you are riding your bike you'll find that you'll stop breaking and wearing out components so fast. It is very likely that you won't tire so quickly either

    My issue with 200mm cranks is the fact you'll encounter a lot of pedal strikes, and if you want the same ground clearance as the shorter cranks with respect to pedal strikes you'll end up with a higher bottom bracket height which will be only available as a custom frame. That bottom bracket height will in fact raise your centre of gravity any time your pedals are neutral and you are standing. The only way 200mm makes sense if if you are willing to put up with pedal strikes. Both my bikes have low BB heights and the handling bonus is worth the trade vs catching the pedals on rocks etc.

    Drew
    Last edited by dru; 10-17-2011 at 04:59 PM.
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  7. #7
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    6'8" and enjoy my 175's & 180's on stock 23" (XXL) 29ers Spec and Trek.
    Tons of debate on this site as to whether tall guys need long cranks.
    I ride hard and fast (relatively) 3-4 days / week average for the last year + and feel standard cranks are fine for me

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dru View Post
    I'm under the impression you've built up some kind of frankenbike, judging by your other thread. If you've done that, by somehow running 29er wheels/tires on a 26er or hybrid frame, the end result will not work well at all.

    I checked out what you've built up on your other thread. You are having problems because you've got the wrong wheels for that frame. You simply cannot make a 26er handle correctly running 29er rims and tires.

    A 29er and 26er frame use completely different #s (the length and various angles of the tubing) to work with the wheels they are designed for. Look at my 2 bikes; do the frames look the same? I can tell you that they fit me identically to within 1cm. Obviously they are constructed completely differently to arrive at the same fit.

    Get the correct wheels for your bike and the handling will improve night and day.

    A quick question; what are you running for a drivetrain? You seem to be talking some weird version of 62 x 11 single speed. A 62 tooth ring will be almost impossible to find btw. If you change how you are riding your bike you'll find that you'll stop breaking and wearing out components so fast. It is very likely that you won't tire so quickly either

    My issue with 200mm cranks is the fact you'll encounter a lot of pedal strikes, and if you want the same ground clearance as the shorter cranks with respect to pedal strikes you'll end up with a higher bottom bracket height which will be only available as a custom frame. That bottom bracket height will in fact raise your centre of gravity any time your pedals are neutral and you are standing. The only way 200mm makes sense if if you are willing to put up with pedal strikes. Both my bikes have low BB heights and the handling bonus is worth the trade vs catching the pedals on rocks etc.

    Drew
    The bike handles great, but with the 26s it was more agile for sure but the wheels were to wimpy and started to collaspe so I made up some strong 29s. My bike riding style I believe is completly different from yours. Your bikes are awesome but look like a back ache to me. My bike is being built for straight up mashing and being lazy but it can haul ass as well if I can keep the weight down.

    The handling is great but the wheelbase is short for a 29er and the way I have it set up it wanted to endow so 200 mm cranks should lower me an inch and get the ride height back to the proper area. This is the most comfortable bike I found for me to turn into a road bike fast cruiser you can jump and take off road. I do not get tired but I am adding weight with every mod I do and slowing the bike down but if you weigh over 300 who cares but also weight on the wheels is a no no and that is where I am having problems big time.These tubes I am running weigh a ton and spinning that extra mass that far out from the hub must really hurt performance. TUBE LESS possible? for me

    I talked with one of the mechanics at a bike shop and asked him if there was a market for a fast road style bike you could jump and take off road without tearing it up and he said yes but I would have to build it because it was not made by anybody in complete form that he new of so I am building it. A Trek 4300 frame design is alot like a road bike and it is coming along well and I am happy.

    The pedals will not strike the ground with 200 mm cranks because the bike is 1 and a 1/4 inches taller because of the 29s so the 200mm craks should get my body back to the right ride height. Like I said I would have gotten a Marlin 23" 29er but it did to me what your bikes do and I do not like that ride position so I bought a 4300 Trek. I am real happy once I solve a few issues and the endowing was a major one. I need to post pictures then you will under stand why the bikes wants to endow. A real couch seat up high for mashing and hard to get your weight back so the rear comes up in some conditions.

    And by the way I got smoked by a road bike today so it is not as fast as I thought!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfdog93 View Post
    6'8" and enjoy my 175's & 180's on stock 23" (XXL) 29ers Spec and Trek.
    Tons of debate on this site as to whether tall guys need long cranks.
    I ride hard and fast (relatively) 3-4 days / week average for the last year + and feel standard cranks are fine for me
    Thanks for chimming in Surfer Dude

  10. #10
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    I could use help on cranks before I buy a set and maybe waste my money, 200s will make my knees come up more so if I lower the seat a inch then get 1 inch longer cranks that means my knees will come up 2 inches more is this a problem for people who own them? Thanks!

  11. #11
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    How exactly is a longer crank going to keep you from doing an endo? It will only change your center of gravity when you are on the down stroke. I don't understand you aren't having serious toe overlap issues with the front wheel. The crank length at 200 would make this potential scenario even worse. Please post a pic of you bike.

  12. #12
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    the benefits of long cranks for people with longer legs it that it can help them have a more even cadence. if you feel like you are spinning tiny circles with your cranks now as it is then you could be a candidate. However they can also decrease your spin as they are in essence increasing the torque of your motor and reducing the RPMs.

    Longer cranks are oft times used by singlespeeders to pick up a little more grunt in exchange for a little less spin at the top end. I use 180mm cranks on a single speed and 175mm on my other and really don't notice a difference.

    As mentioned above, the main difference when standing is that your legs will bend more, your seat will have to be a little lower which might lower your COG a bit, if you lower your seat by an inch, which may be extreme you might find yourself lowering only 3/4" or less depends on your knee geometry.

    If you want to go with wider Q-factor cranks (that is the width of the BB) look at the Mr, whirly cranks from Surly (Mr. Whirly Crank | Parts | Surly Bikes) and run a wider square taper BB from phil wood.

    All this really seems like expensive maneuvering to get around your desired use and fit of your bike. I really feel like if you just got a large or xl 29er frame and swapped over your parts you would be so much happier. You could run larger tires which would change your gear ratio keeping off your cassette bottom as much. There has to be deals this time of year that would get you a frame and fork for what you are going to spend on a pair of 200mm cranks and a phil bottom bracket alone.
    Try this: HTFU

  13. #13
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    Thanks that was the info I was looking for,I can get new 200mm cranks for 250.

    I think I may be a candidate for them because my legs like to turn slow and run a tall gear. I have no problem getting a 29 frame but must find one I like in comfort. I will probably be running narrower tires because I am leaning more for road speed but I will have to judge the line between offroad and road as far as overall handling goes.

    I will swap all parts over when I find a frame I like but feel 200mm could in theory be for me .I just want input from those who have used them before I buy. It will lower me to the ride height I had when it was a 26er because I will be able to lower the seat 1 inch. I am happy with my build path and all my changes have been corrrect so far.I need a 29er fork that is not tall? all help is appreciated and like I said and you said at my weight the bike needs to be custom anyway so all this stuff just transfers over but with a 29er frame and 200mm cranks it may strike the ground from lack of clearence so my Trek frame may just work for my benefit because the BB is now 1 to 1 and a half inches higher,

    There was really no cheaper way of doing this from my point of view. Any other option unless I found what I wanted used would have been more money.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Thanks that was the info I was looking for,I can get new 200mm cranks for 250.

    I think I may be a candidate for them because my legs like to turn slow and run a tall gear. I have no problem getting a 29 frame but must find one I like in comfort. I will probably be running narrower tires because I am leaning more for road speed but I will have to judge the line between offroad and road as far as overall handling goes.

    I will swap all parts over when I find a frame I like but feel 200mm could in theory be for me .I just want input from those who have used them before I buy. It will lower me to the ride height I had when it was a 26er because I will be able to lower the seat 1 inch. I am happy with my build path and all my changes have been corrrect so far.I need a 29er fork that is not tall? all help is appreciated and like I said and you said at my weight the bike needs to be custom anyway so all this stuff just transfers over but with a 29er frame and 200mm cranks it may strike the ground from lack of clearence so my Trek frame may just work for my benefit because the BB is now 1 to 1 and a half inches higher,

    There was really no cheaper way of doing this from my point of view. Any other option unless I found what I wanted used would have been more money.
    For the fork assuming you mean a rigid one you can go with a 26er fork like the Surly Instigator or a Karate monkey one also from surly. Salsa offers a 29er fork with a 15mm thru axle which might be up your alley as well. Would be stiffer but depends if your hubs are convertible.

    You obviously understand the relationship between crank length and cornering. With 200's it will be tight, especially if you use platforms.

    As you mentioned in the original post if you do go to a new frame in the future the 200 cranks could be a problem especially considering your proclivity for high speed fast reacting bike riding. Going with a taller fork to raise the BB would slow the steering.

    if you are serious about getting a custom you might also want to search out the thread on Triton Bikes. Custom Ti frames for a reasonable price out of Russia. They build up some weird stuff, like polo bikes which look like they would be right up your alley, stout, tall, burly and fast.
    Try this: HTFU

  15. #15
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    Getting a Rohloff will solve your problem of eating up drivetrains and gears never being big enough. You can then use wide and long Profile BMX cranks without any chainline issues.

    I can't post links yet, but google around for Chalo Colina, his custom Bohemian mountain bike, and his posts on rec.bicycles.tech

  16. #16
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    thanks you all

  17. #17
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    Can you post a pic of your bike?

    I run 180s on everything now, my SS, my cross bike, my AM ripper, and my upcoming 29er rigid.

    175s feel really funny and the 170s back when I had a fixed gear felt like tip-toeing, 175s feel like walking up short stairs, and 180s feel much more natural.

    200mm cranks will not rid you of the endo feeling that you talk about. For the price of 200mm cranks, you could get a decent 29er frame and fork. You talk about cushion and comfort, measure your bike and compare it to available frames. Cockpit geometry is different from 29er and 26er frames but wheelbase, frame geometry, rake/trail, chainstay length etc are all drastically different.

  18. #18
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    $250

    I run 215's on my Mountain Bike and 210's on my road bike. Both bikes were built to accommodate the lengths. Are the cranks new? Please let me know were you found these if they are new. I run High Sierras and Zinn's integrated cranks.
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    Track down that Zinn guy, he has written books and built bikes, esp for the tall people.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigtymerider View Post
    I run 215's on my Mountain Bike and 210's on my road bike. Both bikes were built to accommodate the lengths. Are the cranks new? Please let me know were you found these if they are new. I run High Sierras and Zinn's integrated cranks.
    I think he was maybe mentioning this group order on the Serotta forum :
    Serotta Competition Bicycle Forums - Anyone interested in 200mm cranks?

    I bought one of them, it's going on my new 36er bike, still being built, so no feedback yet.
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    Yaa I believe that is what they were. very reasonably priced. Like 250.I priced Zinn stuff but to high for me especially when you live in a college town and all the bikes get stolen here., if you do not lock them here they are gone in less than 60 seconds. I have had 2 MT bikes stolen like that right from under my nose!

  22. #22
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    I am not sold on custom cranks for mtb.

    When my cranks failed (180mm), I borrowed my wife's 165.

    I did not notice the reduction in length, I did notice the increase in flex from going from a nice CNC machined RF Atlas to a more basic tech Deore.

    There custom cranks all seem to be simple, and my money would put them at flexible.
    If Shimano cannot make a crank stiff with double the CSA of crank, I doubt a small custom builder can.

    To me stiffness is more important that length and I am taller than you.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  23. #23
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    I have to agree on custom cranks for mountain bike.
    I'll use my 200mm on a cross bike custom built (36er)
    Maybe it's just me, but it's like clipless pedals, not for mountain biking (I crash too often for being clipped-on!)
    :-)

    200mm cranks and clipeless shoes will be for the cross bike, on the road and gravel roads only.



    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant View Post
    I am not sold on custom cranks for mtb.

    When my cranks failed (180mm), I borrowed my wife's 165.

    I did not notice the reduction in length, I did notice the increase in flex from going from a nice CNC machined RF Atlas to a more basic tech Deore.

    There custom cranks all seem to be simple, and my money would put them at flexible.
    If Shimano cannot make a crank stiff with double the CSA of crank, I doubt a small custom builder can.

    To me stiffness is more important that length and I am taller than you.
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    Yaa they probably are more hype than anything,the reason I wanted to try em is because they are supposed to work good if you like to stand up and mash in a tall gear. I would like to run my 29er setup with 50 11 gearing and when a grade came up I would just stand up and mash to build my leg strength. I was reading they are good for that.

    It would have worked perfect with my setup fpor clearance, the guy who was selling the 200mm sells and makes custom tandems and races them and he told me they had no complaints on the cranks being flimsy? I believe he told me they malke them for Zinn?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Yaa they probably are more hype than anything,the reason I wanted to try em is because they are supposed to work good if you like to stand up and mash in a tall gear. I would like to run my 29er setup with 50 11 gearing and when a grade came up I would just stand up and mash to build my leg strength. I was reading they are good for that.
    No way in hell you're climbing anything running 50/11 gears and you're not going to be building leg strength, you're going to be blowing out your knees, hips, and ankles. And good luck doing any stair drops or other urban riding that you talk about with that big of a chainring, you'll just clip your big ring and stall out trying to go over any curbs or stairs.

    Completely unquantifiable but when I made the switch from 175s to 180s, I felt like I was running a few more teeth in the back regarding ease of climbing. It was also much harder to spin high cadences at first, mimicking that feeling of a small gear ratio, but eventually I got over that.

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    'Been riding my Superfly Elite 100 (full suspension) regularly now on a narrow trail that has a lot of 3-4" diameter roots and a lot of tight turns .....even though my rhythm and timing have become very good, I still get some hard pedal strikes/skims and this is with the stock 175mm cranks and smallish spd clipless pedals.
    I'm glad the 175's work for me, anything much longer and I would be in trouble......at least on this trail

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    My inseam measures 37.4 inches/ 95 cms (and i am 6'6" tall). I got JK 205mm cranks via Zinn's shop, and oh boy, they do make a difference. Feels very natural, and going back to 175mm is like being on a kids bike, seriously.

    Note that i am riding mostly on pavement/gravel. My acceleration and mashing while standing have improved greatly. Seriously, my lowest gear is about two steps higher now and 8sp Alfine hub is quite enough right now. I started to think i'd like the cranks to be even a bit longer but that will create me more problems with the bike fit.

    I didn't have the money for a custom build so my solution was different. My main concern was the clearance between pedals and ground. I like pedaling in turns and normal bike geo wouldn't allow that with such long cranks. I picked a frame with HT/ST angles 71/72 degrees. Instead of a stock fork (ca 410mm i think) I've installed Salsa Fargo v.1 fork which is 442mm high with 55mm rake. That made the frame a bit more road oriented, as the angles have increased by 1 degree roughly. Most importantly that gave me some extra clearance, i got about 9 cms under my pedals now. And I am super happy with the overall bike fit. There were some issues with the heel clearance, but I managed to solve them.

    Overall those long cranks were one of the best bike investments I've made regarding the bike fit.

    I am not sure how far are the pedals from each other, but i have no issues with that. I could measure it though if anyone is interested. BB is 73mm ISIS.

    Just wondering, could it be that longer cranks are a bit wider too?

    PS. there is one more obvious advantage of long cranks for tall people. They allow me to sit 3cm lower than with standard cranks, giving more frame and handlebar choices. I can finally ride drop bars (Salsa Woodchipper) in the drops for sufficiently long time!
    Last edited by mikhalit; 01-26-2012 at 03:31 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikhalit View Post
    Instead of a stock fork (ca 410mm i think) I've installed Salsa Fargo v.1 fork which is 442mm high with 55mm rake. That made the frame a bit more road oriented, as the angles have increased by 1 degree roughly. Most importantly that gave me some extra clearance, i got about 9 cms under my pedals now. And I am super happy with the overall bike fit. There were some issues with the heel clearance, but I managed to solve them.
    Pictures please!
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidfrench
    Pictures please!
    will post in few days when get back home from vacations

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    Thankyou very much for the help,you gave me much needed information.

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    Wondering about heel Strike on Chain stays with 200mm cranks? Just a thought? I know I've had an issue with 180mm on one frame, my feet are 12s so not huge, just got really annoying after a while... I guess if you go a custom frame it should be fine

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    On my 29er with 200mm cranks I can hit the dropouts with my heels if I twist em that way (even with the inside float limited out as much as possible on Frogs), but actually riding along they've never collided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by davidfrench View Post
    Pictures please!
    Here are the pics, bike is set as a kids hauler and for long touring rides:

    1. This is 600mm tall Poison Chinin IGH cromo frame, ETT is 615mm. The fork is Salsa Fargo with 442mm axle-to-crown.

    2. The cranks are Joseph Kuosac Mtb 205mm. Couldn't measure the exact pedal height, but for the road/gravel it's absolutely enough. Not much chance for a singletrack ride here in Northern Germany, can't comment if the clearance is adequate for some techy trails.


    The front will take up to 2.3" wide rubber and the rear at least 1.9" if not wider. It should be a fine monstercross machine, i am planning to do some bikepacking with it later.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 200mm crank ?s 38inch inseam am I really a candidate-6846684435_5e492c850e_z.jpg  

    200mm crank ?s 38inch inseam am I really a candidate-6846694315_18e0eb1390_z.jpg  

    Last edited by mikhalit; 02-09-2012 at 07:47 AM.

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    And this is manufacturers photo, to show how this frame would look like with the original fork (same frame but in smaller size and derailleur version)
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by mikhalit; 02-09-2012 at 08:35 AM.

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    nice set-up!
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    The old I.R.D. company (Interlock Racing Designs, in the 80') just to make some "Hill climping" bikes with really long cranks (220mm) and super tall bottom brackets, maybe make ask around on the Vintage forum so you can see some pictures and how "funny" do they look
    Last edited by patineto; 03-15-2012 at 03:44 PM.

  37. #37
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    Thanks for all the help,I build 26 frames with 29s on them for road use. The bikes I build are a road bike comfort bike you can beat on like a mountain bike.

    Are you ever like going down the road and just see a shortcut or something you want to hit off to the side of the road ? but cannot because you are on a flimsy bike ?,well I am building a 23 inch Rock Hopper 26er frame with 29s and 200mm cranks.


    For mainly road going I prefer 26 frames to 29er for some reason and with 200 mm cranks it will solve the clearance problem if you use a 26er frame.. Thanks for all replies.

  38. #38
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    You probably need something like this:
    I Beg You, More MONSTERCROSS

    What you're talking about building is a flat-bar monstercross bike. You cant fit 29er tires into a 26er frame, there just isnt clearance for the tall tires. You might be able to fit a 700x40 or 700x45 but those are closer to 28", not a true 29er and closer to a cyclocross tire than anything 29er.

    Have you looked at 650B bikes? Probably a lot easier and closer to what you want to do. Bigger tires than 26" but you can still fit fat tires onto a 26" frame with 650B. If you bump up all the way to a 700C rim you're really limited to skinny cross tires.

    Honestly, what it really sounds like you need is a fixed gear freestyle bike with an internal gear hub, then you'll have the high bottom bracket for longer cranks, a stout frame, clearance for fat 700s. Just most of them only come fixed and without braze-ons so you'd have to run full length housing and an internal geared hub in the back and maybe a Hammerschmidt or FSA metropolis crank up front (probably the HS due to your penchant for hucking).

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    I ad a trek 4300 set up with 1.9 XR1s and it worked fine,thhe bigger framed 26ers will handle 29s to a point. I did not look at a monster cross bike because people told me a good mountain bike frame was tougher? For me what I do works fine. I hhhave to buils custom wheels anyway because of my weight so the most iportant thing for me is a good solid frame I like for comfort. The Trek 4300 was better than the RH in that area for me and looked tougher in build.

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    I brought this tread from the dead back, anybody else running 200 mm? I changed from 175 to 180 and put a better quality crank in my bike and what a difference, on hills where I used to have to stand or downshift to keep power up evenly I can now just sit and turn the power up and motor out.

    200 mm is such a big jump over 180 maybe 190 would be better. Any input from people who have played around with crank length would be great. In theory if you can spin the bigger circle more efficiently you will gain power through torque?

    Thanks for any help.

  41. #41
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    I have a 39" inseam and I run 220mm (I should be on 210mm) and run a 1x10 with a 11-36 cassette.
    The result is that I climb way better than any other 700c bike I had (with 180mm cranks) or a loaned bike with 200mm (29er full suspension).
    But my bike is fully rigid, Ti and 36er. I'm also 6'6".....
    DirtySixer Bikes
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  42. #42
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    I'm 6'9", 42" inseam. I have 1 rigid HT and 1 FS trailbike, both 29ers with 190mm cranks.
    I've thought about getting longer cranks for the HT, but availability and price hold me back.
    On the FS I think longer cranks would just result in pedal strike-o-rama.

    In my opinion, longer inseam => longer cranks!

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by langen View Post
    I'm 6'9", 42" inseam. I have 1 rigid HT and 1 FS trailbike, both 29ers with 190mm cranks.
    I've thought about getting longer cranks for the HT, but availability and price hold me back.
    On the FS I think longer cranks would just result in pedal strike-o-rama.

    In my opinion, longer inseam => longer cranks!
    Thats what I thought, mainly the length of your femur is more important. I should be about 6 foot 8 but am only 6 foot 5 because I am short torso.

    There is a crank in 200mm and 220 for only 130 $.

    I was just shocked at how much faster I was changing my crank out.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post

    There is a crank in 200mm and 220 for only 130 $.
    Details, please! Do you have a link?

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by langen View Post
    Details, please! Do you have a link?
    I cant even get if Realslowww is a troll account. He wont post pictures of his bike and spews a lot of nonsense everywhere he goes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    I cant even get if Realslowww is a troll account. He wont post pictures of his bike and spews a lot of nonsense everywhere he goes.
    Got to have pictures just like the little girls on show and tell day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by langen View Post
    Details, please! Do you have a link?
    IRD is the company who has them, they are 110 BDC, one place claims to sell them for 128$ Universal Cycles but they seem to only be in stock about 1/2 the time.

    You can Google it.

  48. #48
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    At 42" inseam you definitely needs 220mm cranks. Well at 6'9" you also need a 36er bike (have you looked at my DirtySixer?) !
    I have 220mm on my 36er that are from Joe Kuosac with ISIS type spindle. I think they are better than the square taper of the IRD for the abuse I throw at them. But square taper will work fine if used on road/gravel and no big jumps.
    IRD said somewhere that they even did (back in the days, but when?) some 225mm cranks. I bet custom and pricey.
    I have some 200mm square taper from daVinci that are still waiting for the right bike...

    Quote Originally Posted by langen View Post
    I'm 6'9", 42" inseam. I have 1 rigid HT and 1 FS trailbike, both 29ers with 190mm cranks.
    I've thought about getting longer cranks for the HT, but availability and price hold me back.
    On the FS I think longer cranks would just result in pedal strike-o-rama.

    In my opinion, longer inseam => longer cranks!
    DirtySixer Bikes
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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Got to have pictures just like the little girls on show and tell day.
    You've done so much talking about your crazy hybrids but you've never once posted pics.

  50. #50
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    Re: 200mm crank ?s 38inch inseam am I really a candidate

    He climbs with 50-11 gearing, he doesn't need pictures

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