Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 80
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523

    200mm crank ?s 38inch inseam am I really a candidate

    I am looking at ordering some 200 mm cranks for a few reasons,do the people with a real long inseam like them and what are the advantages to disadvantages? I am more than likely going to end up building a custom framed bike and would like to know if you transfer them from one bike to another because they are a keeper for you and what would be the best style bottom bracket.

    My feet ride at least a half inch off the side of my pedals because my cranks and crank bottom bracket is to narrow. I need to figure a fix for this as well.

    I am looking at getting 200mm cranks and then running a 62 tooth ring up front so I can get off of the 11 tooth sprocket in the back and ride in the 13 n 14 tooth range as.I am losing power because of the tight chain circle and I am tired of replacing a 11 tooth sprocket every month.

    Any help would be great, thanks alot.

  2. #2
    Your bike is incorrigible
    Reputation: Guyechka's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    3,127
    If you're going custom, then there are plenty of options for the bottom bracket. You're probably at 73mm wide now, but you can go up around 100mm. I don't know if you searched around for one, but there are some sites (Sheldon Brown among others) that talk about how long cranks need to be for different inseams. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I can barely get away with 175mm, but I have been thinking of trying to find some longer ones.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    Thanks for the reply,

    I am a real hard fit, I talked to a builder today and he said I was a real rare build that would be hard to fit and a custom frame might be necessary.

    With my leg length I should be at least 6 foot 8 or so but I am only 6 foot 4 so this crazy bike build is a real thing.

    I want one bike to do all.

  4. #4
    dru
    dru is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,643

    You're not that difficult

    I've got the same inseam as you. I'm an inch taller too at 6'5". There are more than a few manufacturers out there offering up equipment for us big fellas that fit well. I did build myself a custom frame though, but only because I wanted a long enough head tube, which is the chief area that the mass manufacturers neglect in the 26er world. Most mass produced 29ers are perfectly fine in the head tube department.



    '07 XL Salsa El Mariachi The TT length is 25 inches. The ST length is just under 24" There is 8 1/2 inches of post showing



    My custom 26er. Since this photo was taken I lowered the bars by more than an inch, removed a spacer, and switched to a 0* 110mm stem from the 6* 100mm in the photo.
    For a really tall guy, it is a good feeling to be able to lower things to get the fit right. The TT is 25 1/2'', the ST is 24" and the head tube is 185 mm, and like the Salsa, 8 1/2 " of post is showing.

    As for cranks, 180s should be fine for you. I've got 3 bikes and 2 have 175s and the custom orange 26er has 180s. The 180s do feel like I've got more leverage, but I've had zero problems with the 175s. I've been riding half seriously for more than 15 years without an issue.

    You should stay away from extra wide BB shells and bottom brackets because you will totally screw up the bike's chain line. You need this to be between 47.5 and 50 mm measures from the middle ring to the centre-line of the frame. If your feet are too narrow either get pedal extensions or get cranks with a wider Q measurement.

    Drew
    occasional cyclist

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    Thanks Dru , nice bikes.

    I want to run 200s so It can get me lower to the ground because I raised the bike 1.5 inches with 29s.

  6. #6
    dru
    dru is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,643
    I'm under the impression you've built up some kind of frankenbike, judging by your other thread. If you've done that, by somehow running 29er wheels/tires on a 26er or hybrid frame, the end result will not work well at all.

    I checked out what you've built up on your other thread. You are having problems because you've got the wrong wheels for that frame. You simply cannot make a 26er handle correctly running 29er rims and tires.

    A 29er and 26er frame use completely different #s (the length and various angles of the tubing) to work with the wheels they are designed for. Look at my 2 bikes; do the frames look the same? I can tell you that they fit me identically to within 1cm. Obviously they are constructed completely differently to arrive at the same fit.

    Get the correct wheels for your bike and the handling will improve night and day.

    A quick question; what are you running for a drivetrain? You seem to be talking some weird version of 62 x 11 single speed. A 62 tooth ring will be almost impossible to find btw. If you change how you are riding your bike you'll find that you'll stop breaking and wearing out components so fast. It is very likely that you won't tire so quickly either

    My issue with 200mm cranks is the fact you'll encounter a lot of pedal strikes, and if you want the same ground clearance as the shorter cranks with respect to pedal strikes you'll end up with a higher bottom bracket height which will be only available as a custom frame. That bottom bracket height will in fact raise your centre of gravity any time your pedals are neutral and you are standing. The only way 200mm makes sense if if you are willing to put up with pedal strikes. Both my bikes have low BB heights and the handling bonus is worth the trade vs catching the pedals on rocks etc.

    Drew
    Last edited by dru; 10-17-2011 at 04:59 PM.
    occasional cyclist

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    806
    6'8" and enjoy my 175's & 180's on stock 23" (XXL) 29ers Spec and Trek.
    Tons of debate on this site as to whether tall guys need long cranks.
    I ride hard and fast (relatively) 3-4 days / week average for the last year + and feel standard cranks are fine for me

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    Quote Originally Posted by dru View Post
    I'm under the impression you've built up some kind of frankenbike, judging by your other thread. If you've done that, by somehow running 29er wheels/tires on a 26er or hybrid frame, the end result will not work well at all.

    I checked out what you've built up on your other thread. You are having problems because you've got the wrong wheels for that frame. You simply cannot make a 26er handle correctly running 29er rims and tires.

    A 29er and 26er frame use completely different #s (the length and various angles of the tubing) to work with the wheels they are designed for. Look at my 2 bikes; do the frames look the same? I can tell you that they fit me identically to within 1cm. Obviously they are constructed completely differently to arrive at the same fit.

    Get the correct wheels for your bike and the handling will improve night and day.

    A quick question; what are you running for a drivetrain? You seem to be talking some weird version of 62 x 11 single speed. A 62 tooth ring will be almost impossible to find btw. If you change how you are riding your bike you'll find that you'll stop breaking and wearing out components so fast. It is very likely that you won't tire so quickly either

    My issue with 200mm cranks is the fact you'll encounter a lot of pedal strikes, and if you want the same ground clearance as the shorter cranks with respect to pedal strikes you'll end up with a higher bottom bracket height which will be only available as a custom frame. That bottom bracket height will in fact raise your centre of gravity any time your pedals are neutral and you are standing. The only way 200mm makes sense if if you are willing to put up with pedal strikes. Both my bikes have low BB heights and the handling bonus is worth the trade vs catching the pedals on rocks etc.

    Drew
    The bike handles great, but with the 26s it was more agile for sure but the wheels were to wimpy and started to collaspe so I made up some strong 29s. My bike riding style I believe is completly different from yours. Your bikes are awesome but look like a back ache to me. My bike is being built for straight up mashing and being lazy but it can haul ass as well if I can keep the weight down.

    The handling is great but the wheelbase is short for a 29er and the way I have it set up it wanted to endow so 200 mm cranks should lower me an inch and get the ride height back to the proper area. This is the most comfortable bike I found for me to turn into a road bike fast cruiser you can jump and take off road. I do not get tired but I am adding weight with every mod I do and slowing the bike down but if you weigh over 300 who cares but also weight on the wheels is a no no and that is where I am having problems big time.These tubes I am running weigh a ton and spinning that extra mass that far out from the hub must really hurt performance. TUBE LESS possible? for me

    I talked with one of the mechanics at a bike shop and asked him if there was a market for a fast road style bike you could jump and take off road without tearing it up and he said yes but I would have to build it because it was not made by anybody in complete form that he new of so I am building it. A Trek 4300 frame design is alot like a road bike and it is coming along well and I am happy.

    The pedals will not strike the ground with 200 mm cranks because the bike is 1 and a 1/4 inches taller because of the 29s so the 200mm craks should get my body back to the right ride height. Like I said I would have gotten a Marlin 23" 29er but it did to me what your bikes do and I do not like that ride position so I bought a 4300 Trek. I am real happy once I solve a few issues and the endowing was a major one. I need to post pictures then you will under stand why the bikes wants to endow. A real couch seat up high for mashing and hard to get your weight back so the rear comes up in some conditions.

    And by the way I got smoked by a road bike today so it is not as fast as I thought!

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    Quote Originally Posted by Surfdog93 View Post
    6'8" and enjoy my 175's & 180's on stock 23" (XXL) 29ers Spec and Trek.
    Tons of debate on this site as to whether tall guys need long cranks.
    I ride hard and fast (relatively) 3-4 days / week average for the last year + and feel standard cranks are fine for me
    Thanks for chimming in Surfer Dude

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    I could use help on cranks before I buy a set and maybe waste my money, 200s will make my knees come up more so if I lower the seat a inch then get 1 inch longer cranks that means my knees will come up 2 inches more is this a problem for people who own them? Thanks!

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Adim_X's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    668
    How exactly is a longer crank going to keep you from doing an endo? It will only change your center of gravity when you are on the down stroke. I don't understand you aren't having serious toe overlap issues with the front wheel. The crank length at 200 would make this potential scenario even worse. Please post a pic of you bike.

  12. #12
    workin' it Administrator
    Reputation: rockcrusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    8,104
    the benefits of long cranks for people with longer legs it that it can help them have a more even cadence. if you feel like you are spinning tiny circles with your cranks now as it is then you could be a candidate. However they can also decrease your spin as they are in essence increasing the torque of your motor and reducing the RPMs.

    Longer cranks are oft times used by singlespeeders to pick up a little more grunt in exchange for a little less spin at the top end. I use 180mm cranks on a single speed and 175mm on my other and really don't notice a difference.

    As mentioned above, the main difference when standing is that your legs will bend more, your seat will have to be a little lower which might lower your COG a bit, if you lower your seat by an inch, which may be extreme you might find yourself lowering only 3/4" or less depends on your knee geometry.

    If you want to go with wider Q-factor cranks (that is the width of the BB) look at the Mr, whirly cranks from Surly (Mr. Whirly Crank | Parts | Surly Bikes) and run a wider square taper BB from phil wood.

    All this really seems like expensive maneuvering to get around your desired use and fit of your bike. I really feel like if you just got a large or xl 29er frame and swapped over your parts you would be so much happier. You could run larger tires which would change your gear ratio keeping off your cassette bottom as much. There has to be deals this time of year that would get you a frame and fork for what you are going to spend on a pair of 200mm cranks and a phil bottom bracket alone.
    Try this: HTFU

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    Thanks that was the info I was looking for,I can get new 200mm cranks for 250.

    I think I may be a candidate for them because my legs like to turn slow and run a tall gear. I have no problem getting a 29 frame but must find one I like in comfort. I will probably be running narrower tires because I am leaning more for road speed but I will have to judge the line between offroad and road as far as overall handling goes.

    I will swap all parts over when I find a frame I like but feel 200mm could in theory be for me .I just want input from those who have used them before I buy. It will lower me to the ride height I had when it was a 26er because I will be able to lower the seat 1 inch. I am happy with my build path and all my changes have been corrrect so far.I need a 29er fork that is not tall? all help is appreciated and like I said and you said at my weight the bike needs to be custom anyway so all this stuff just transfers over but with a 29er frame and 200mm cranks it may strike the ground from lack of clearence so my Trek frame may just work for my benefit because the BB is now 1 to 1 and a half inches higher,

    There was really no cheaper way of doing this from my point of view. Any other option unless I found what I wanted used would have been more money.

  14. #14
    workin' it Administrator
    Reputation: rockcrusher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    8,104
    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Thanks that was the info I was looking for,I can get new 200mm cranks for 250.

    I think I may be a candidate for them because my legs like to turn slow and run a tall gear. I have no problem getting a 29 frame but must find one I like in comfort. I will probably be running narrower tires because I am leaning more for road speed but I will have to judge the line between offroad and road as far as overall handling goes.

    I will swap all parts over when I find a frame I like but feel 200mm could in theory be for me .I just want input from those who have used them before I buy. It will lower me to the ride height I had when it was a 26er because I will be able to lower the seat 1 inch. I am happy with my build path and all my changes have been corrrect so far.I need a 29er fork that is not tall? all help is appreciated and like I said and you said at my weight the bike needs to be custom anyway so all this stuff just transfers over but with a 29er frame and 200mm cranks it may strike the ground from lack of clearence so my Trek frame may just work for my benefit because the BB is now 1 to 1 and a half inches higher,

    There was really no cheaper way of doing this from my point of view. Any other option unless I found what I wanted used would have been more money.
    For the fork assuming you mean a rigid one you can go with a 26er fork like the Surly Instigator or a Karate monkey one also from surly. Salsa offers a 29er fork with a 15mm thru axle which might be up your alley as well. Would be stiffer but depends if your hubs are convertible.

    You obviously understand the relationship between crank length and cornering. With 200's it will be tight, especially if you use platforms.

    As you mentioned in the original post if you do go to a new frame in the future the 200 cranks could be a problem especially considering your proclivity for high speed fast reacting bike riding. Going with a taller fork to raise the BB would slow the steering.

    if you are serious about getting a custom you might also want to search out the thread on Triton Bikes. Custom Ti frames for a reasonable price out of Russia. They build up some weird stuff, like polo bikes which look like they would be right up your alley, stout, tall, burly and fast.
    Try this: HTFU

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    17
    Getting a Rohloff will solve your problem of eating up drivetrains and gears never being big enough. You can then use wide and long Profile BMX cranks without any chainline issues.

    I can't post links yet, but google around for Chalo Colina, his custom Bohemian mountain bike, and his posts on rec.bicycles.tech

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    thanks you all

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,150
    Can you post a pic of your bike?

    I run 180s on everything now, my SS, my cross bike, my AM ripper, and my upcoming 29er rigid.

    175s feel really funny and the 170s back when I had a fixed gear felt like tip-toeing, 175s feel like walking up short stairs, and 180s feel much more natural.

    200mm cranks will not rid you of the endo feeling that you talk about. For the price of 200mm cranks, you could get a decent 29er frame and fork. You talk about cushion and comfort, measure your bike and compare it to available frames. Cockpit geometry is different from 29er and 26er frames but wheelbase, frame geometry, rake/trail, chainstay length etc are all drastically different.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bigtymerider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    206

    $250

    I run 215's on my Mountain Bike and 210's on my road bike. Both bikes were built to accommodate the lengths. Are the cranks new? Please let me know were you found these if they are new. I run High Sierras and Zinn's integrated cranks.
    Live Large

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    983
    Track down that Zinn guy, he has written books and built bikes, esp for the tall people.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: davidfrench's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    292
    Quote Originally Posted by bigtymerider View Post
    I run 215's on my Mountain Bike and 210's on my road bike. Both bikes were built to accommodate the lengths. Are the cranks new? Please let me know were you found these if they are new. I run High Sierras and Zinn's integrated cranks.
    I think he was maybe mentioning this group order on the Serotta forum :
    Serotta Competition Bicycle Forums - Anyone interested in 200mm cranks?

    I bought one of them, it's going on my new 36er bike, still being built, so no feedback yet.
    DirtySixer36er, Ventana ElCapitan, Soma Smoothie 66cm, Trek T100, ChoiceCollective36er.
    DirtySixer
    36er

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    Yaa I believe that is what they were. very reasonably priced. Like 250.I priced Zinn stuff but to high for me especially when you live in a college town and all the bikes get stolen here., if you do not lock them here they are gone in less than 60 seconds. I have had 2 MT bikes stolen like that right from under my nose!

  22. #22
    Underskilled
    Reputation: CaveGiant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,111
    I am not sold on custom cranks for mtb.

    When my cranks failed (180mm), I borrowed my wife's 165.

    I did not notice the reduction in length, I did notice the increase in flex from going from a nice CNC machined RF Atlas to a more basic tech Deore.

    There custom cranks all seem to be simple, and my money would put them at flexible.
    If Shimano cannot make a crank stiff with double the CSA of crank, I doubt a small custom builder can.

    To me stiffness is more important that length and I am taller than you.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: davidfrench's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    292
    I have to agree on custom cranks for mountain bike.
    I'll use my 200mm on a cross bike custom built (36er)
    Maybe it's just me, but it's like clipless pedals, not for mountain biking (I crash too often for being clipped-on!)
    :-)

    200mm cranks and clipeless shoes will be for the cross bike, on the road and gravel roads only.



    Quote Originally Posted by CaveGiant View Post
    I am not sold on custom cranks for mtb.

    When my cranks failed (180mm), I borrowed my wife's 165.

    I did not notice the reduction in length, I did notice the increase in flex from going from a nice CNC machined RF Atlas to a more basic tech Deore.

    There custom cranks all seem to be simple, and my money would put them at flexible.
    If Shimano cannot make a crank stiff with double the CSA of crank, I doubt a small custom builder can.

    To me stiffness is more important that length and I am taller than you.
    DirtySixer36er, Ventana ElCapitan, Soma Smoothie 66cm, Trek T100, ChoiceCollective36er.
    DirtySixer
    36er

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    523
    Yaa they probably are more hype than anything,the reason I wanted to try em is because they are supposed to work good if you like to stand up and mash in a tall gear. I would like to run my 29er setup with 50 11 gearing and when a grade came up I would just stand up and mash to build my leg strength. I was reading they are good for that.

    It would have worked perfect with my setup fpor clearance, the guy who was selling the 200mm sells and makes custom tandems and races them and he told me they had no complaints on the cranks being flimsy? I believe he told me they malke them for Zinn?

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTscoob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2,150
    Quote Originally Posted by Realslowww View Post
    Yaa they probably are more hype than anything,the reason I wanted to try em is because they are supposed to work good if you like to stand up and mash in a tall gear. I would like to run my 29er setup with 50 11 gearing and when a grade came up I would just stand up and mash to build my leg strength. I was reading they are good for that.
    No way in hell you're climbing anything running 50/11 gears and you're not going to be building leg strength, you're going to be blowing out your knees, hips, and ankles. And good luck doing any stair drops or other urban riding that you talk about with that big of a chainring, you'll just clip your big ring and stall out trying to go over any curbs or stairs.

    Completely unquantifiable but when I made the switch from 175s to 180s, I felt like I was running a few more teeth in the back regarding ease of climbing. It was also much harder to spin high cadences at first, mimicking that feeling of a small gear ratio, but eventually I got over that.

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Inseam just under 32 inches riding a 29er.....170mm crank??
    By vizsladog in forum XC Racing and Training
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-12-2009, 08:47 AM
  2. Riders with 29" inseam...What size crank do you use?
    By nice_camel_toe in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 02-28-2009, 01:17 PM
  3. Seatpost length? 34" inseam, 175mm crank...
    By SeanHoffman in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-20-2007, 02:20 PM
  4. Yet again ... crank length for short inseam?
    By shapirob in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-07-2006, 05:34 AM
  5. Crank Length-29.5" Inseam
    By intheways in forum Women's Lounge
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 05-26-2004, 11:41 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •