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Thread: 1x10 gearing

  1. #1
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    1x10 gearing

    Hey fellow clydes, for those you that run 1x, what are your gearing?

    Front and if anyone is running the 42 rear spocket.
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  2. #2
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    I'm getting ready to make the switch. Planning on running a 32T up front and I'm going to see how the stock rear works out before making a decision on a new big cog. I'm thinking unless I really need more, going with a 40T just to keep the shifting a little smoother. That is if I find that the stock 36T isn't low enough. I can ride the trails I ride most often with a 32/17 on my single speed no problem so I'm kinda basing things off that. But I also ride mostly on a trial system that has little climbing so that's going to be the catch...I need to get out to some other areas that do having some climbs to see how the 32/36 works.
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  3. #3
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    It really depends on what terrain you ride. Pick a front ring that you think will work, and figure out which gear ratio is closest to that with your current setup. Next time you ride don't ever shift into a lower gear than that.

  4. #4
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    1x10 with an 11-36 cassette, 30t narrow wide chainring. Works ace for me.
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  5. #5
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    I ride technical terrain with quite a few lung-busting climbs- I've got a 9:Zero:7 fatbike with 32t chainring and a 11-42t cassette (wolf tooth giant cog) on my fat wheel set and a 29er set with a 11-36. A 30-42 would have given me the same low ratio (roughly) as the 24-34 that I had on my 2x9 setup, but I chose a 32t cr as it seemed to be the best compromise in re to the 34/24 chainring combo that I had used previously. At first (4 months ago), I found that the climbs were brutal; I was using the 42 bailout gear a lot and pushing a lot more than I was used to. However, switching to a 1x gave me a lot of mental bandwidth to focus only riding: with fewer options I was able to concentrate more on cadence and get the gearing more or less right. After riding it a while, I find that I'm not using the 42t cog as much; instead, I'm doing the majority of my climbs in 28, 32 & 36t cogs and use the 42t for longer climbs where I've lost momentum. Not only has my cadence improved, but my legs have gotten stronger, as well. It took a while to fully adapt, but I don't see going back to a 2x setup, ever.
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  6. #6
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    I'm running a 30 RaceFace up front and 11-42 in the rear. I ride in north east nj and find the climbs a bit tough. Might want to get a SRAM direct mount GXP so that i can run a 28 front chainring. i'm 5'10 about 240, so i'm a bit on the hefty side.
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  7. #7
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    275lbs, 29er ht, 30t with 11-36 cassette, Midwest singletrack. Yet to find a need for a 40 or 42, but there's a couple trailsets near my inlaws (300m south in STL) that I could see a need for 40t. As climbing gets mean enough. I'll know later this summer.
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  8. #8
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    30t narrow/wide chainring

    11-42 rear gearing (with 18t cog replacing the 17t and 19t cogs for better spacing)

    Check out OneUp for getting an 18t cog included with a 40t or 42t cog purchase.

  9. #9
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    I was 205 lbs on my Tallboy...orginially went 1x9......32 x 12/34.

    About 5 months later, jumped to 1x10.....32 x 11/36.

    I have never been a spinner so mashing the big gear works for me.

    Also, I spend 90% of my time on a SS, so the 22t ring was wasted on me.

    Haven't missed the bailout gears, and I do a lot of long miles with big elevation gains.

    Also no longer a clyde.....lots of riding has dropped the weight down to 176-180 lbs.
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  10. #10
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    30 t race face up front, and 40 t one-up on back. Rarely use the 40, but it's nice to have on certain trails. Going with a single up front has made me much stronger of a rider.

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    I have a Yeti ARCc 29" with 1x10 and I'm 235 geared up riding. Started out with 34t x 11-36 and was ok for a couple of the trails I ride but not the more climbing technical ones (specially if I was partly cashed) so I went to a 32 and wouldn't mind just a tad better climbing but lost some top end for the gravel and green way riding. I just ordered the OneUpComponents 42 and 16 sprocket kit to try out and see if I can go back to 34 front and have a granny gear to climb with that's slightly lower then the 32front/36rear I have available now. We'll see how it goes!
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    I (5'11", 230#) run a hope 30T and 11/36. I'm very happy with it. For here in southeast PA I don't see the need for a 40T. A buddy tried a 30-11/42 and got rid of the 42 and went back to the stock 11/36. I don't really spin, and never mashed in the 36 when I had 2x10. Now the 36 is my mash gear if I need to.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    30t narrow/wide chainring

    11-42 rear gearing (with 18t cog replacing the 17t and 19t cogs for better spacing)

    Check out OneUp for getting an 18t cog included with a 40t or 42t cog purchase.
    I've actually switched to 13-42 by using using a larger lock ring and simply removing the 11t top gear. I barely used it anyway and I like the close ratio gears better at 13-15-17-19.

  14. #14
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    34 hope ring, 11-40t-rex. works good here in MI for steep punchy climbs and decent downs on a 34lb bike.

  15. #15
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    Ordered my 30T ring...a RaceFace Narrow-Wide. I wish I'd have it by end of the week but that's wishful thinking. I'm excited to give it a try with my current 11-36 cassette.
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  16. #16
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    30T narrow-wide Race Face chainring with 11-40 in the rear. The One-Up comes with a 16t cog which makes a much smoother transition through the gears. Going 1X will make you a faster and stronger rider. You'll have to be to make it up the hills!

  17. #17
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    Okay, I run mostly 1x9--don't need no stinkin' 10-11sp, yet.

    32 or 34 front and 11-36 rear and I live where there are actual mountains with 2K-5K vert in a ride. Yeah, I'm one of those guys, whatever that means.
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  18. #18
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    Yeah, 2000 feet is a flat ride for me around here in WV. I don't know if I'll have the legs to keep the rear at 36T. I'll find out soon. My new chainring will be here Monday and I'll be trying it out next weekend, hoping to get some decent mileage in.
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  19. #19
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    update. Just replaced my chain yesterday and my 42t Giant Cog is shot after 4 months and 1000 miles of riding. teeth are worn and several teeth are broken off. On one hand, I'm disappointed that I've only gotten 4 months use out of it, on the other hand, I've used it far less in the past 300 miles than i did in the 1st 700, so I expect a bit more longevity out of the next one.
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  20. #20
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    1000 miles out of a cassette cog is unacceptable. I'd make a complaint and see if they'd warranty it. I know it's a consumable, but it shouldn't be used up that fast.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    update. Just replaced my chain yesterday and my 42t Giant Cog is shot after 4 months and 1000 miles of riding. teeth are worn and several teeth are broken off. On one hand, I'm disappointed that I've only gotten 4 months use out of it, on the other hand, I've used it far less in the past 300 miles than i did in the 1st 700, so I expect a bit more longevity out of the next one.
    Giant brand or another brand and just referring to it as "giant" because of size?

    I imagine if you use an aluminum cog a lot, especially as a clyde, that they are going to wear out. If you want something to last longer check these 41t cogs out on Ebay

    41 Tooth Cog for Mountain Bike Cassette 41T Sprocket | eBay

  22. #22
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    But certainly not within a 1000 miles. And even less than that because I'm sure all 1000 miles of riding wasn't on that "Giant" cog. Certainly it only saw a fraction of the 1000 miles of overall use.
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  23. #23
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    28T narrow wide, 11-36 cassette

  24. #24
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    Got mine installed today. Dropped 13oz off the bike. Can't wait to get it out and try things out....

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  25. #25
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    I (265lbs) have have gone 1X10 twice now. once on my Nomad but ended up going back to 2x10 before selling the bike and now I have 1x10 on my Tallboy. I am using a raceface Narrow/wide 32t ring with a 11-36 cassette.

    So far so good on the Tallboy. Have a few hundred miles on it with this setup.
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  26. #26
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    I'm not at 32 up front and 11-40 in the rear. I like it. It's working and as I ride more, i'm using the 40 less and less. As others, 1x10 makes you a stronger; therefor faster rider. Never going to back to 2x9, just seems like a waste.
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  27. #27
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    I run 1x9 and enjoy it. I feel it made me a stronger rider. I don't commute or ride flat stuff so speed isn't a concern for me.
    32 front and 36-12 rear 29er

  28. #28
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    I'm still relatively new to riding 1x10. 260 lbs, and I went 30t up front and 11-42 in back with the Wolftooth. I ride in the wilds of Indiana and Michigan. There's only one spot on my local trail where I need the 42tooth, but it's a nasty uphill switchback, and I really need it there. Rode Southwestway in Indianapolis last weekend and there were two climbs that required it. I would think that if I only had 11-36, I'd still be able to ride 95% of my terrain. But the 42 has come in handy. On the other end, I've only spun out the 11x30 one time, and that was on an urban ride due to wet trails. If I'm hitting 20+mph on a trail, I'm already going downhill, and more concerned about my line than my speed.
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  29. #29
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    On my fat bike I'm running a 30t Raceface NW front, 11/42t rear using a OneUp. I also added a 24t granny ring up front but no front derailleur or shifter. I manually shift into it on long steep climbs where the 30/42 isn't low enough. I thought of it when I saw a guy running 22 11/36 combo at a fat bike event in Stowe. It's not like we're racing and it's nice to have the option when I really need it, without the added weight of the extra shifter and derailleur.

    I've been using a Wolftooth 42t on my trail bike too. 30t front NW, 11/42 using the Wolftooth ring. My first Wolftooth lost a tooth after a few hundred miles. Wolftooth sent me a replacement ring immediately. I will be buying more product from them - they stand behind their product.

    That said, I consider these aluminum rings to be consumables. I expect to change them more frequently than the cassette.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaupoRider View Post
    I run 1x9 and enjoy it. I feel it made me a stronger rider. I don't commute or ride flat stuff so speed isn't a concern for me.
    32 front and 36-12 rear 29er
    There ya go, no 40-something Wolf Tooth needed.

    SRALPH, does your bike even move when turning the pedals in 24-42? You must be good at track stands cuz in that gear combo, I'd fall over.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glide the Clyde View Post
    There ya go, no 40-something Wolf Tooth needed.

    SRALPH, does your bike even move when turning the pedals in 24-42? You must be good at track stands cuz in that gear combo, I'd fall over.
    Ha. Well I do try to avoid using that particular gear. But at 250, on a fat bike and riding up punchy, loamy root infested northeastern trails as we did last night that gear comes in handy occasionally, even though I hit it accidentally. I'll keep it on and see how it goes, but will likely go to a 40t next as the 42 seems like it stresses the rear derailleur a little too much for my liking. I already ripped a tooth off one Wolftooth and broke the b tension screw once.

  32. #32
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    240lbs running RF 30NW 11-36 in the rear w/ X9 non type 2. Loving it so far, but sometimes my legs cry when I go to hit the big trigger and there is nothing left. It makes you a better rider, and keeps me in the middle of the gear range 75% of the time.

  33. #33
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    I too ride jesey trails . I went with raceface 32t narrow wide keep the std 11-36 rear cassette. bike was originally a 2x10 24/36 and I found myself shifting a lot between the 2 really killing my outta saddle confidence , so after switchin to 1x bike felt like bmx ... I would suggest not changing gearing just to make climb now rather than setting a goal for yourself ....that the approached I used , so proud of myself after finally making those lung busters.... cheers
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  34. #34
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    I recently converted my Stumpjumper HT to a 1x10 and I'm sold on it. I went with a Wolf Tooth Components Drop Stop 36t Sram Direct Mount Chainring and kept the 11-36 range and it's perfect for where I ride this bike. I am doing my Epic next but will go with the 34t up front and thinking of 11-42t w/ the 16t range for the trails I ride that bike on. No complaints what so ever.

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  35. #35
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    I keep thinking about switching to 1x10. Need to get a 40t in the back to make it work. Abs black does not recommend bigger riders (200+) using it. I checked the others hope/oneup/wolftooth, and they are all about the same weight and made using the same process.

    Those of you running 1x10 with a 40/42T, are you finding any brands to be more stronger/reliable than others?

    For reference, in the PNW I get ~300 miles out of rings/cassette in the 9-month long wet season. So I do value longevity...

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by trees4me View Post
    I keep thinking about switching to 1x10. Need to get a 40t in the back to make it work. Abs black does not recommend bigger riders (200+) using it. I checked the others hope/oneup/wolftooth, and they are all about the same weight and made using the same process.

    Those of you running 1x10 with a 40/42T, are you finding any brands to be more stronger/reliable than others?

    For reference, in the PNW I get ~300 miles out of rings/cassette in the 9-month long wet season. So I do value longevity...
    FWIW I'm 240lbs and have about 1,000 miles on 1x10. 400-500 on a RaceFace narrow wide ring before it started making grinding noises and 500-600 on an Abs Black narrow wide which is running strong.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    FWIW I'm 240lbs and have about 1,000 miles on 1x10. 400-500 on a RaceFace narrow wide ring before it started making grinding noises and 500-600 on an Abs Black narrow wide which is running strong.
    You're running 11-36 in the rear, right?

    I'm specifically wondering about any problems with the 40 or 42T rear cog. The front n-w seems like it should be as strong or stronger than shimano/sram chainrings.

  38. #38
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    I'm running a 32t raceface in the front ,10 speed 11-36t in the back. It's perfect for where I ride...could have easily gone to a 30t in the front and still had plenty of gear.

  39. #39
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    I rode my buddies 1X10 a few weeks ago and I really liked it. Liked it so much that my bike is now a 1X10. Went with SRAM X1 X-Sync chain ring and 12-36 cassette with X-9 type2 and XX 10 speed shifter. Works great and loving it!! Im 330ish btw.

  40. #40
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    I have been giving serious thought to changing my NRS1 to 1x10 using a 34(maybe 32) front and 11-36...and maybe a 40 T-rex if i feel i need it

  41. #41
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    I converted to a 1x10 setup last week. One of the best upgrades I have made to the bike.
    -When accelerating from my granny, no need to let up pedals to up shift up on front derailleur. So speeding up is much more fluid.
    -Bike feels incredibly clean and simple now. No 2nd guessing when you aren't quite sure if your front big or small ring is engaged in situations where you would normally have to shift to different front ring.
    - Dropped closer to 1lb of junk that isn't need. Not much weight, but that small amount makes a bigger difference the longer you ride. I can feel a difference when I pick it up though.
    - Less junk on handlebars. Left side is for my dropper, right for my rear derailleur.
    - Smaller front cog means a bit more clearance under pedals
    - Less chance of "slipping" out of gear on super steep,torquey climbs. Two derailleurs means 2x the opportunity for your chain to come out of adjustment. I was grinding up steep granite today without fear of slipping. In fact, got up some sections that had taunted me for 6 years where I ride.

    Yes, you do lose some high end gearing but you can adjust that by using a different front cog.
    Overall I think the conversion just simplifies your bike. Let's you concentrate on riding rather than shifting. You can do it on the cheap too.

  42. #42
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    I ride 1x10 with a 32 up front and an 11-36 out back. I'm all about the climbing, and don't mind spinning on the flats, I'm an ex-roadie, though.
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  43. #43
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    30 tooth raceface nw with 11-36 out back on m y 29er is perfect for these florida trails. There are some things I can't get up but thats because my lack of skills and fitness from infrequent riding. it's nice to have fewer parts on the bike to worry about.

    If anyone wants a 30t raceface NW ring in red, I would like to trade for a 32 or 34. I just built a bike for my fiance, the ring has maybe 15 miles on it tops. I wasn't thinking about the fact that her bike is a 26er so the 30t is just way too low of a gear. I think a 34 is probably fine for her as she is pretty fit to begin with although not an avid rider

  44. #44
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    I run a race face NW 30t up front with a 11-36 with 42t one up in the rear.

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    Update: Pedaled the crap out of my hardtail for a bit with 34 N/W front and 11x42 OneUp conversion over the summer. Built up my legs a bit and now running a 36 N/W up front with 11x40 OneUp rear on my new Yeti ASRc XC bike. I have a 34 AbsoluteBlack in my gear bag and may just try it out tomorrow on a longer forest service road/trail ride with a bit of climbing to evaluate as the 36/40 grinding up steep grade forest service road sections was ok with semi fresh legs but I'm not sure how it would be if the same climbs were after 20 miles of XC riding. The 42 OneUp was just too gappy going from 36 to 42, but I could see it being better suited on a heavier fat bike with a 24 or 26th up front.
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  46. #46
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    Just pooches my One up 42t which I put on.my fatbike last February, so low mileage as I only used my fatty until April and got back on it in November. Switched cranks now running 26t direct mount NW front, 11/36 rear. Might add the 40t Hope cog out back for a little more low end and less of a jump. Wish someone would make this cog in steel or Ti for durability.

  47. #47
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    Race Face 34T Narrow/Wide Ring w/ a 11-36 Cassette -I live in Central NC. I rarely ever used my small ring in my 2x10.
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  48. #48
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    I have the 32T NW upfront with a 11-42 Oneup conversion. Works great for climbing and is super quite and no dropped chains while bombing downhill.

  49. #49
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    1x10 mod on my Ibis Mojo HD

    Wolftooth 42T GC
    Shimano XT Hollowtech II crankset ( originally 3x10 )
    Shimano XT cassette 11-36
    Shimano XTshadow plus derailleur
    Oneup Radcage
    Raceface NW 30T chainring
    Race Face Crank Arm Outer Tab Spacers
    Raceface 12.5 mm chainring bolts
    Miche 12T first position cog
    Token 12T lockring
    Shimano Cassette Lockring Washer for 12 tooth Cog
    Sram PC 1071 Chain

    I decided to Change the 11T for a 12T first position cog . I completely remove the 13T on the 11-36 XT Shimano cassett. I mostly ride in the middle and upper part of the cassette (ridding in Utah) and use the wolftooth 42T GC as a bailout gear . This setup shifts very well... I love it. Looks super clean and lost a little overall weight.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1x10 gearing-img_20141226_144217.jpg  

    1x10 gearing-img_20141227_182410.jpg  

    1x10 gearing-20141226_131102.jpg  

    1x10 gearing-2015-03-09-23.30.51.jpg  

    1x10 gearing-picsart_1426260694579.jpg  

    1x10 gearing-picsart_1426514542579.jpg  


  50. #50
    mtbr member
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    Feb 2015
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    Best modification ever. Did it on my Cannondale last year. Just threw a race face 30t narrow wide on and an x9 clutch derailleur completely transformed my riding. Got a Spearfish this year and immediately put just the 30t race face on and took 2 links from the chain on a non-clutch long cage XT. Zero chain drop and just makes riding nicer. 11-36 rear as well. Very few times I have wanted bigger than a 36 in the rear here in the Midwest.

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