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  1. #1
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    10spd Chain for a big guy

    Hi,

    I am upgrading from my worn out 3X9 speed set up to a 2X10 and I am all set to go, but I can't find much on a good chain for a 280lb man. I currently have a Sram 991 Cross Step chain. Is there anything comprable in 10spd? I have had problems in the past with breaking chains, until of course until the cross step. I can hammer on that thing with no worries. I don't shift under load, and I don't cross chain either. I am just trying to get some input from other clydes out there. Thanks in advance

    Drew.

  2. #2
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    I have over 1400 miles on a KMC X-10, 10-speed, reusable Missing Link, I am little north of 300lbs and have not had any issues.

    Mark
    2012 XXL Carve Expert

  3. #3
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    I was looking at the KMC X10-Ti, thanks for the info!

  4. #4
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    KMC is good stuff! Just stay away from the SL version. They are spendy, and mine only lasted 500ish miles before it grenaded into 4 seperate chains.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by millertm View Post
    I have over 1400 miles on a KMC X-10, 10-speed, reusable Missing Link, I am little north of 300lbs and have not had any issues.

    Mark
    +2, these chains have served me well...

  6. #6
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    Being a big guy, I've always stayed away from the lighter stuff. Though the owner of the shop I work at is convinced that the new carbon bikes would be just fine for me. I don't know.

  7. #7
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    I'm bigger, and ride a lot of vert so its high chain tension riding in the smaller chain ring. I broke a KMC, a SRAM, and a Shimano chain, each lasting about 300 miles. Mike at Auburn Bike Works did some research. He found the guys running 10x systems on tandems were having chain life problems, but were having good luck with Campy chains so he put me on one. The first went just over 1000 miles. It didn't break, but I had a worn cassette so I replaced both at the same time. The second has several hundred on it and is not showing any stretch at all. They're expensive (about twice the price of a regular chain), but the price per mile is more favorable than the other chains and not breaking chains on the trail is nice. The model I'm on is the CN1-VLX "Catena Veloce 10v". It shifts as well as any of the other chains.

  8. #8
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    Interesting, I might have to check that out. As long as I can get it. I haven't found it on our suppliers list yet... I'll keep a look out though. Thanks!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewdoeboy View Post
    Being a big guy, I've always stayed away from the lighter stuff. Though the owner of the shop I work at is convinced that the new carbon bikes would be just fine for me. I don't know.
    I laughed at my LBS guy when he said I could get on the Carbon rims. He keeps saying that I could get a carbon bike as well. I keep pointing out the rim weight limits and bike weight limits are about half what I weigh. Oh well, at least they sold me a new XT cluch derailer with install for $130.

    Mark
    2012 XXL Carve Expert

  10. #10
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    I will say I seen some people close to my size hucking carbon SantaCruz bikes off of some big drops for about a year now. The bikes come in regularly for maintenance and we have seen nothing crack just yet. These guys ride their bikes hard too. I still have a itching feeling that having carbon fibre in my flesh isn't going to go over well. I have a pair of Chris King wheels I laced up with Stans Arch hoops and DT swiss competition spokes, I've never had to true them and they are still rolling like the day I laced them. Either way, I Think I have decided I am going to try the KMC X-10 Ti chain for now and see how that goes. Though I think the fiance' has giving me permission(I'm a student and only work part time.) to upgrade to a new mountain bike and I've got my eyes set on Either a Santacruz Tallboy LT or a Santacruz Bronson.... Decisions....

  11. #11
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    Spin more, mash less, clean and oil your chain regularly. That is all.

  12. #12
    Toro
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    KMC for me. Shifting technique, not cross-chaining, and regular maintenance have increased my chain life as well.
    Ricardo aka "El Toro"
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  13. #13
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    Chains can take far more load than you can put on them.
    Chains break through bad spannering and / or bad technique. It has nothing to do with your weight.

  14. #14
    bog
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    I have many, many kms on KMC X10-SL chains with no issues at all. I'm 240 lbs and ride hard in some pretty nasty conditions here near Vancouver, BC. The quick link has also proven to be very durable.

    If you're worried about the SL version there's no reason to shy away from the non-SL but I don't believe they've sacrificed durablity for light weight.
    SC Tallboy C : Giant TCX SLR : Giant Propel Adv SL DA9070

  15. #15
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    I know proper shift technique is key, along with cleaning and oiling regularly. I clean my chain before every ride and after depending on the trail conditions. Like stated above, I don't shift like a schmuck and I don't cross chain either. I just ordered the KMC chain and now I can finally install all the goods for this season! Thanks for the input everyone!

  16. #16
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    I don't really want to rehash and older thread, but since I have been riding.. My second year now on a MTB FS 29r and a 26 FS I find that as a get in better shape I am going thru both chains and when the chain lets go rear hangers as well..

    I replaced my chain 3 days ago and today pulled the KMC quicklink apart when I was pumping it.. It is getting really old.. I want to excel at biking now as I am getting in better shape but have learned to hold off shifts under full power and to shift early so it is less stress on the chain.. I also easy pump when I shift..

    But now I'm good at making the chains come apart.. I have ruined XTRs, and KMC's the light version..

    I contacted KMC to ask which chain is there strongest and they said there newer KMC light weight one is actually their strongest and most stretch resistant..

    I'm 200lbs with 3X10 and 36-11.. I rarely use the small sprocket and find most all my riding is in the middle ring.. This is where I find I am blowing apart the chains.. It's getting scary since there is no warning and when I'm putting power down it's usually on the uphills making up some time..

    I came from a road bike back ground and never had a chain break.. Now I've been thru 4 in the last 6 months..

    After the first chain explosion I have been extra careful about good shifting behavior..

    Any other options?

  17. #17
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    I switched to a 1x10 setup. Before, on 2x, i was lucky to get 400 miles from a chain. I'm currently over 800 miles on a mid-grade SRAM chain. I weigh 270 and put a LOT of power to the pedals.
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  18. #18
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    1X10

    What you running front T count and rear?

    Middle ring 32t with 11-36 rear.. is what I'm running now..

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jennifer012904 View Post
    Any other options?
    LEarn to use all of the gears and stop mashing up hills. Sit down and spin more, don't change when pedalling and keep your chain line straight.
    There is no need for you to be breaking chains that often. You are not that heavy and you are not putting earth-shattering power through your legs and ripping the chain apart.

  20. #20
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    32t cr & 11-42 cog with a Wolftooth Components Giant Cog
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  21. #21
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    Try the Campy chain I referenced earlier in the thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by jennifer012904 View Post
    I don't really want to rehash and older thread, but since I have been riding.. My second year now on a MTB FS 29r and a 26 FS I find that as a get in better shape I am going thru both chains and when the chain lets go rear hangers as well..

    I replaced my chain 3 days ago and today pulled the KMC quicklink apart when I was pumping it.. It is getting really old.. I want to excel at biking now as I am getting in better shape but have learned to hold off shifts under full power and to shift early so it is less stress on the chain.. I also easy pump when I shift..

    But now I'm good at making the chains come apart.. I have ruined XTRs, and KMC's the light version..

    I contacted KMC to ask which chain is there strongest and they said there newer KMC light weight one is actually their strongest and most stretch resistant..

    I'm 200lbs with 3X10 and 36-11.. I rarely use the small sprocket and find most all my riding is in the middle ring.. This is where I find I am blowing apart the chains.. It's getting scary since there is no warning and when I'm putting power down it's usually on the uphills making up some time..

    I came from a road bike back ground and never had a chain break.. Now I've been thru 4 in the last 6 months..

    After the first chain explosion I have been extra careful about good shifting behavior..

    Any other options?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by TooTallUK View Post
    LEarn to use all of the gears and stop mashing up hills. Sit down and spin more, don't change when pedalling and keep your chain line straight.
    There is no need for you to be breaking chains that often. You are not that heavy and you are not putting earth-shattering power through your legs and ripping the chain apart.
    Agreed. While the 10sp+ chains are not as strong as the 9sp, they are being used by guys who DO have earth shattering power, can mash twice as hard as any of us, adn ride up grade for an hour at the same power we can hold for three minutes. Sure, their drivetrains get replaced constantly, but it they raced with bad habits they would not make it through a single stage without a chain issue.

    Mind your chainline when power is required~ don't power up hill on the big ring (triple) on a middle cog. Limit your big ring to only your last two cogs. Similar story on the other end... if you need to be on your three largest cogs, you should be on your smallest ring.

    Chainging gears under power is nothing more than being lazy~ Save it for the races! It's takes little mental work to sight your terrain and shift in time. If you can't seem to get it right, find a hill that slowly increases in grade and climb it while remaining in the seat. You might find your issue is nothing more than not spinning fast enough to give yourself enough time to shift. Shouldn't be that hard in these days of double-throw shifters.

    A hard tug on a chain is always better than a bad shift~ If the grade change isn't hat long, or you can stand up and increase speed, tough it out. Don't risk a bad change when you can bear down and increase speed enough to make the change, or can just power through it.

    Make a gearing change~ If you find your usual trails or roads are best met in a gearing that is not an optimal chainline, try a different ring. I can't name a single bike I have owned that didn't get a chainring or two swapped to give me a better chainline. This is very inportant for road cycling as there are power efficiencies involved. For trail riding it's more about durability. Either reason is a good one.

    No, I did not swap chainrings on my Schwinn Stingray (although I did swap wheels for a different cog , but that did not count as it was owned by my parents, as all youth toys tend to be.

  23. #23
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    Me being new to the modern bike scene it certainly has been a really large learning curve.. Back in the day 20+ years ago 1 chain would last 3-5 years if not longer..

    I have been thinking of switching to a 1X10 or 1X11 would this offer any advantage with chain lifespan?

    Also, will the campy chain mentioned in the thread be a simply retro fit? I thought the campy stuff was different?

    Thanks for all the input..

  24. #24
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    just popped mine today after only like 8 months on it (including some winter riding) ......im surprised as its my 2nd chain since owning the bike of total 14 months ....im a big boy tho 6'6 340 lbs ,,, so the question is do about it ... do I just replace it with another of the same excepting that until I get do to avg size weight im gonna continuously break em so expect short life span!!!???
    Ride hard everytime....or take up hiking...........lol

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    Agreed. While the 10sp+ chains are not as strong as the 9sp
    Just FYI-10 speed chains use the same thickness rollers and side plates as 9 speed chains. The are made to higher tolerances which makes them narrower and more expensive. For strait pin pull strength they are just as strong if not stronger than 9 speed chains. They however don't tolerate side loading as much so cross chaining is a big no-no.

    Regardless of the chain, big guys will break chains more often if they have poor shifting technique and cross chain a lot.

    For the record I have never broken a 10 speed chain, I did break a few SRAM 9 speed chains about a decade ago (and even then if was from bad shifts on my part) and have since used either Shimano or KMC chains with no issues.
    Former bicycle mechanic for 8 years, current soil scientist.

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