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  1. #3401
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    Kindorf for the win.
    What's the purpose of the flat 90's in the config. that you have ?
    The flat 90s on the side are to prevent the superstrut from expanding when I tighten the ball on the rack. This is needed because Superstrut is open on one side.

    Quote Originally Posted by John View Post
    Why didn't you simply buy the wall mount RachStash ($59) for the 1up from 1 up?

    https://www.1upusa.com/product-rackstash2.html
    Because I had all that stuff sitting around doing nothing for the past 4 years, so it was free. Figured time to use it for something and I only had to cut the one horizontal piece a little shorter. All I bought were 4 3.5" bolts to mount it to the wall, which cost about $2. It's so strong that I can hang from it. Plus I like building things.

  2. #3402
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    I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.
    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

  3. #3403
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    Quote Originally Posted by briantortilla View Post
    I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.
    If you don't need 1 1/4", I'd definitely go with one of the 2" models. 1 1/4" is fine (that's what I have), but since the width is small, the rotational force on the 1 1/4" bar is huge if you get any side-to-side movement of the car. That exaggerates any play in the interfaces between the hitch, adapter, and vehicle. I think 2" is recommended for off-road use, but they don't prohibit it with 1 1/4". 2" should be more stable and stronger.

    If you're installing a hitch on your car for the first time, go with 2" no matter what kind of rack you plan on getting. I had a cheap 1 1/4" hitch on a Honda Civic, and the hitch itself bent with three bikes on it, and it was not very stable at all. Flex is not a problem with the 1 1/4" rack with 2" (aluminum) adapter in a 2" hitch on my SUV, but there is a little flex. I imagine the 2" version would flex less since it fills up the hitch receiver better.

    If you want the ability to use just one bike, you could get the 1-tray 2" Super Duty rack. There is absolutely zero flex between the add-ons that I can see, so using two trays screwed together vs. two fixed trays on the heavy duty rack won't matter at all. The only difference seems to be the ability to carry one more bike with the two fixed trays (four bikes total).
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2in-...gle-bike-rack/
    Matt

  4. #3404
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    Thanks for the awesome reply. Ill probably end up going with the heavy duty 2 bike. I like the idea of just carrying one bike, but in reality, i don't think it it worth the extra cost for the super duty.
    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

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    I had the same question and talked to 1Up by phone (on this topic and a couple others). They said the 1 1/4 would be fine and plenty strong, so that's what I bought, to go with a 2"Ecohitch. Unfortunately I can't offer any experience as I have not done the install yet. As you know there are pros and cons to each choice.

  6. #3406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    VERY Cool. I"ve been thinking about doing something similar for a while.

    Couple questions....

    Are the lights easily relocated as you add and remove trays?
    Are they running lights only, running and brakes, or the whole shebang with blinkers too?
    Source for the light bars?

    Sorry for the delay, just got back from a bike trip....

    The lights I used came with double sided tape to stick on, so not easily removable. But they are cheap, so if you used a trailer wire splitter, you could wire the extensions with their own.
    They do all, running, brake, and blinkers. The lights themselves actually have amber for blinkers, but I didn't wire those, since I used a pair of them, and a 4pin connector on my Jeep. I used the ground and running (tied to both lights), then left blinker to left brake light, and right blinker to right brake light. That way they work just like a trailer.

    I got lights from Amazon
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And also hitch wiring.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007V...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  7. #3407
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    Cool. Thanks.

    I've got a plan. I'm thinking a full width tail light strip with neodium magnets on the back of it that would attach to the pivot bolts for the arms so you could move it easily as you add or subtract trays. Gotta do some measuring.

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    Ready to buy the HD Double rack plus 2 add-ons to carry 4 bikes. However, I would like to confirm a couple things before I do:

    1) I drive a 2015 Toyota Sienna with a Curt 2" hitch which is only 11" or so off the ground. Does the rack fold down enough with the four bikes loaded to allow the rear door to open fully ? Note: I currently have a 10" riser on my hitch for my Thule hanging style rack to keep the bike wheels from hitting the ground when loaded without the top tube adapter and can keep using that if needed.

    2) I have standard Blackburn rear racks on the bikes that extend about 6" past the center-line of the rear axle. Are the arms able to lock on without hitting the racks?

  9. #3409
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    1. With four bikes loaded, I'd say it'll be difficult tilting the rack away from van to open back. If you did, you'd have to deadlift a couple hundred pounds back up. Easy enough to remove bikes quickly.

    2. My wife's bike with rack would hit the one up if not positioned carefully. You have to start with the rear tire and then finish securing on the front tire.

  10. #3410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Cool. Thanks.

    I've got a plan. I'm thinking a full width tail light strip with neodium magnets on the back of it that would attach to the pivot bolts for the arms so you could move it easily as you add or subtract trays. Gotta do some measuring.
    Keep us posted, like to see the results.

  11. #3411
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    Quote Originally Posted by eonicks View Post
    1. With four bikes loaded, I'd say it'll be difficult tilting the rack away from van to open back. If you did, you'd have to deadlift a couple hundred pounds back up. Easy enough to remove bikes quickly.

    2. My wife's bike with rack would hit the one up if not positioned carefully. You have to start with the rear tire and then finish securing on the front tire.
    HELP is on the way.
    I was in the process of ordering parts for a tilt handle mod on a silver 2" Super duty double. Had my design and parts all figured out, just needed to confirm that 1 Up would sell me the tilt handle release bar and the cross member above that. I didn't want to drill into my rack and void my warranty if my mod didn't work.

    I spoke to Rob and told him what I needed and he said it would be no problem providing the parts. "Oh, by the way, what do you have going on?" I told him I needed a tilt release handle at the back of the rack and that I was going to do a modification if I could get the release handle and cross member.

    Rob told me, if I could wait " a couple of weeks " they, 1 Up , will be releasing a tilt release handle mod. Rob didn't go into any design details or pricing but, " make sure we have your email on file and we'll notify you when available".

    So, hold off on the paracord and PVC mods and see what 1 Up comes up with.

  12. #3412
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    Hi folks,

    I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!

  13. #3413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev View Post
    Hi folks,

    I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!
    I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
    The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.

    I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.
    Matt

  14. #3414
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    Quote Originally Posted by m85476585 View Post
    I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
    The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.

    I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.
    You are the man. Thanks so much

  15. #3415
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    Quote Originally Posted by m85476585 View Post
    I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
    The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.

    I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.
    Sounds about right, nothing is metric on these. You can double check by emailing or calling them on the phone. I think the toolkit should include the allen key, you could measure that to double check.

    Hadn't thought about the loctite, might be a good idea.

  16. #3416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev View Post
    Hi folks,

    I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!
    You can e-mail 1up. They might even send you replacement for free if you ask.
    Last time I asked about bolt specs, they responded next day.

  17. #3417
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    I was wondering if anyone can tell me how well the black holds up? Does it scratch easy? How does it look after a couple years of use.
    I'm sorry if this topic has already been covered, I haven't had time to read through the entire thread.

    Thanks
    Mr_Mojorisen

  18. #3418
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    The tray is powdercoated but the rest of it is anodized. Anodized will not weather well in UV. It's it's garage kept and just put for strorage, that's different in *color change wear*. YMMV

  19. #3419
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    Looking at a 1Up used. Any key talking points to check out / confirm ?

  20. #3420
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    I'd really like to pick one of these up, but it seems like you need to purchase at least 2-3 additional add-ons to ensure that the hitch is secured to the vehicle and that the bike is secured to the hitch......

  21. #3421
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    Quote Originally Posted by VanillaEps View Post
    I'd really like to pick one of these up, but it seems like you need to purchase at least 2-3 additional add-ons to ensure that the hitch is secured to the vehicle and that the bike is secured to the hitch......
    No, you don't "need" to purchase anything but you can choose to do so to be on the safe side. My rack has never loosened up in tens of thousands of miles I've driven with it on my car.
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  22. #3422
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    Secured as in security - theft prevention - not fitment on the vehicle.

    I don't know why people feel the need to be so defensive. If you got one, great - enjoy it. My question or comment isn't meant to question your decision in buying and using one. It's just a question.

    I just ordered one and I'm sure I'll be happy with it. It's perfect for the ride straight to the trailhead and back. If I feel the need to stop somewhere quick - I can always use a cable lock for peace of mind.

  23. #3423
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    Oheckler or any 1Uppers- Any POV on why 1UP just PC's the tray and not the remainder of the black unit. Black just turns - black/purplish - think egg plantish - in UV>

  24. #3424
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    Anyone ever have trouble with their swing arms not closing smoothly?

    On my quick rack add on I can only close one of the arms 1 ratcheting notch at a time. It gets stuck, and I have to give it a moment before I can close it another notch. I think maybe the spring on the arm isn't doing it's job.

    I emailed 1Up about it, I'm sure they'll get me sorted, but has anyone else had this happen? If so, how did you get it fixed?

  25. #3425
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    Loosen the bolts just a bit on the main pivot of the arm.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  26. #3426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Loosen the bolts just a bit on the main pivot of the arm.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Tried it, didn't make a difference. I'll see what 1Up suggests and report back. Thanks.

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    lube the *bottom* of the notched rails with chain lube (or something similar very light weight which won't attract dirt). clean them, lube again if needed.

    that's what it's sliding against and where the friction is occuring.

  28. #3428
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    My 1UP is one of the best things I've ever owned. But I've always thought that a $500 rack needs a better integrated locking system. (If you think that makes me a hater then I think you're fooling yourself). Back in the day I never worried about somebody stealing my rack, because they were so rare (therefore the machined hex wrench was also uncommon) and because of the replacement warranty, if stolen. I used a long shackle Master lock through the drilled holes in the wheel bars to lock my bike to the rack when traveling, but I never worried about anyone stealing the bikes with the rack. Not anymore. Now that I see a lot more 1UP's; and the replacement warranty is no longer valid, I've locked my 1UP to my truck with a small U-lock and I use a cable to lock my bikes to the rack. I read a statistic that half of cyclist have had a bike stolen. I don't know. Local hero Eric Marcotte had his bike stolen today (not off a 1UP rack, but during the middle of a ride!) so I guess we all have to be careful. I'm interested in seeing what 1UP's integrated locking solution is. I bet there's one on the way.


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  29. #3429
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    I recently read about a bike on 1Up rack that were stolen together. While there are several options for locking the rack to the hitch, thieves could dis-assemble part of the rack to steal a bike that is cabled or chained to just the rack. Probably the most secure is to U-lock the rack to the hitch and chain the bike to the U-lock.1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upwu-lock.jpg
    As in the photo, I'm going to try leaving my U-lock in place to safeguard the rack to the hitch, and then I'll cable or chain the bike to that when I need to.

  30. #3430
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    1up does sell locks that go through the wheel locks. If you buy a bunch at one time, they come with the same key. I ulock my rack and then use the pin locks on the bikes. Works really well.

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  31. #3431
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbmtb View Post
    lube the *bottom* of the notched rails with chain lube (or something similar very light weight which won't attract dirt). clean them, lube again if needed.

    that's what it's sliding against and where the friction is occuring.
    I don't think they are lubricated from the factory are they? While that might work I'd still be curious what is causing this in the first place. Interestingly this is happening on my add on, which is much newer and has seen a lot less use than the rack itself which still works perfectly.

  32. #3432
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    Instead of the Velcro straps I've been using these great cable ties from Home Depot as a backup if the bolt loosens up


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    Quote Originally Posted by a63vette View Post
    Instead of the Velcro straps I've been using these great cable ties from Home Depot as a backup if the bolt loosens up


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    I seriously hope that's a huge joke on me

    I've had mine for 14k on a Suby almost always and on a f150 for a few trips of 350 plus miles each way. I don't say it's not an issue as I believe others reports. But I have 2 of these guys and I've never had 1 even come a little loose. I check but I worry more about the bike on the rack then the hitch loosening.
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  34. #3434
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    Best purchase you have ever made!
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  35. #3435
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    Quote Originally Posted by formula4speed View Post
    I don't think they are lubricated from the factory are they? While that might work I'd still be curious what is causing this in the first place. Interestingly this is happening on my add on, which is much newer and has seen a lot less use than the rack itself which still works perfectly.
    I have no idea what the deal is, I've seen some come from the factory which work poorly and some which work great. May have something to do with the finish on the two parts being randomly off. But the solution I described will fix it, as that's the surface which it's riding on.

    A friend figured this out. Then he used silicon spray lube, which worked for about a month then turned into a sticky mess.

    A dry chain lube works great--it's extremely light. I'd guess rubbing a candle or other paraffin type thing works too. It lasts a very very long time.

  36. #3436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtbikologist View Post
    I recently read about a bike on 1Up rack that were stolen together. While there are several options for locking the rack to the hitch, thieves could dis-assemble part of the rack to steal a bike that is cabled or chained to just the rack. Probably the most secure is to U-lock the rack to the hitch and chain the bike to the U-lock.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1UpwU-lock.jpg 
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    As in the photo, I'm going to try leaving my U-lock in place to safeguard the rack to the hitch, and then I'll cable or chain the bike to that when I need to.
    I actually might do this as well. I have the hitch extender, and the locking bolt that goes though that, but this is a good second measure, and I have tons of U locks laying around
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  37. #3437
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    No matter what system you use to lock your bike to the rack, I still wouldn't feel confident leaving a bike unattended on a rack because there are so many expensive parts that can easily be removed very quickly. Maybe they won't get the wheels, but the seat, seat post, stem, bars, pedals, etc. can be stripped in seconds. I get that people want to go into a store or restaurant for a bit, but I would never let my bike/rack/vehicle out of my sight and be more than a few seconds away if I were to go into a place. Just the simply truth of living in today's society. Otherwise expect to lose some or all of the bike.

  38. #3438
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    Best plan is to not leave it out of site. Nowadays thieves with battery powered sawzall or grinder could just cut the aluminum arms like butter. Lock or not. I am paranoid.

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    At some point, I did read every single post in this thread....

    Has there been a incident where the rack came loose ?

    While I wait for my 1Up to be shipped and delivered, I suppose there is a rhyme/reason on why there is not hitch pin hole ? Granted, I don't why why you just don't check the tightness of the built in mechanism every now and then.

    It's like anything in car ownership. Then again, I probably visually check my tires on the car about every ~other~ time I get in the car, so I suppose it's only as good as the operator@hand.

  40. #3440
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    Yes, posts on here about rack sliding. On recent trip I noticed mine having slid almost out entirely while loaded with two bikes! Never will have it not secured.

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    Hmmm...going to have to re-read the old threads.
    Is it because the nut/retaining ball has backed itself out - due to not occasionally checking it to see if it's torqued proper. Theoretically, it should have not back itself out if torqued down.

    And or, has there been reported issues of it backing out, after a single day trip in which it was installed/tighted the day prior/same day

  42. #3442
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    After five years and thousands of miles (including rutted washboard gravel road) I've never experienced my 1UP rack loosening in the hitch receiver. Never even a little. I would politely hypothesize that anyone who lost a rack "slipping" from the hitch receiver "possibly" forgot to tighten it, then drove off with it loose. I use a small U-lock to secure the rack to the truck, and I guess the snug fit serves as a backup in case the hitch ever came loose.... but I have it there for theft security rather than to prevent it from falling off the truck.


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    OT, and I'm not sure if a pic was ever posted re: the discussion of black coloring......
    While utubing for 1up reviews, I came across this vid, which is perfect example of what happens to the black..

    When I called 1Up prior to my order 2 weeks ago, I was advised the trays are powdercoated but the rest is anodized. The vid. should show what happens to anodizing and exposure to UV. Doesn't take much IMO.....

    Black turns to a darkish eggplant within a year. The vid linked, he must have his rack on 24/7....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMrUWCnQaIk&t=7s

  44. #3444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott In MD View Post
    After five years and thousands of miles (including rutted washboard gravel road) I've never experienced my 1UP rack loosening in the hitch receiver. Never even a little. I would politely hypothesize that anyone who lost a rack "slipping" from the hitch receiver "possibly" forgot to tighten it, then drove off with it loose. I use a small U-lock to secure the rack to the truck, and I guess the snug fit serves as a backup in case the hitch ever came loose.... but I have it there for theft security rather than to prevent it from falling off the truck.


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    In my experience, it's not as simple as, "you forgot to tighten it."

    I make sure mine is tight, but it's come loose. After several miles on dirt roads, bikes start swaying and when I pull over, the rack needs re-tightening. That'll happen more than once over, say, 10 miles of rough driving. I've got to pull over every so often when I'm driving off the beaten path and re-tighten the rack. It's a pain in the ass to stop every few miles. I mostly use a Kuat NV now.

    The 1Up hasn't ever come loose on me while driving on pavement though.
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  45. #3445
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    I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?

  46. #3446
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  47. #3447
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbermhb View Post
    I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?
    The 1.25" bar obviously isn't as strong, but also note the locking plate is smaller. The emphasis for the single quick rack was ease of use and light weight (for such a stout rack).
    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

  48. #3448
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    Here's how I do it for both security and safety. The U-Lock is short enough where if the rack loosens up it can't slide out enough to drop out of the hitch. As you can see I have a piece of duct tape on the shaft to mark how far it insert without getting too close to the car when bike is on the rack and I wrapped a piece of old inner tube along the "U" to keep it from rattling and marking up the rack.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170204_131025.jpg  

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  49. #3449
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plim View Post
    In my experience, it's not as simple as, "you forgot to tighten it."

    I make sure mine is tight, but it's come loose. After several miles on dirt roads, bikes start swaying and when I pull over, the rack needs re-tightening. That'll happen more than once over, say, 10 miles of rough driving. I've got to pull over every so often when I'm driving off the beaten path and re-tighten the rack. It's a pain in the ass to stop every few miles. I mostly use a Kuat NV now.

    The 1Up hasn't ever come loose on me while driving on pavement though.
    Mine has come lose a few times on rough dirt roads (4WD roads). The first time the internal pin that pushes the ball became dented and caused all kinds of problems (the rack got stuck in my hitch, and it was a huge pain to get it off). They updated the design with a case-hardened pin, so it shouldn't do that again.

    On a recent trip my 1 1/4" rack in a 2" hitch came loose a few times with three bikes. The 1 1/4 - 2" adapter extrusion kept coming loose when the rack did, so I suspect not having Loctite on the screw was part of the problem. I had to tighten the rack several times in a few miles. I haven't pulled the pin out yet to see if it deformed, but I plan to at some point.

    I suspect the 2" version is better for off-road driving since there's no adapter to come loose, and since there is a larger contact area (not just the adapter). I plan to make a metal shim to take up most of the extra space in the hitch to see if that helps, so that it's mostly relying on large metal contact area to keep it from moving rather than just relying on the ball. There's a 1/16" gap between the rack and the hitch when it's installed on my SUV.

    I've never seen the screw back out, and I've never seen it loosen even a little on pavement. I usually tighten it once after a little driving after I first install it, then it doesn't need tightening again.
    Matt

  50. #3450
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbermhb View Post
    I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?
    They used to allow 4 trays on the 1 1/4" rack, but now they don't. They also don't allow 4 trays with the single bike 2" super duty base rack. They must have a reason, and the only difference I can see between what you have and the 2" heavy duty 2 tray rack is that there is no joint between tray 1 and tray 2 on the 2" 2-tray rack.

    I've never seen any movement at the joint between the trays with 3 bikes, but there is a large amount of force on those screws as you add more bikes.
    Matt

  51. #3451
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    OT, and I'm not sure if a pic was ever posted re: the discussion of black coloring......
    While utubing for 1up reviews, I came across this vid, which is perfect example of what happens to the black..

    When I called 1Up prior to my order 2 weeks ago, I was advised the trays are powdercoated but the rest is anodized. The vid. should show what happens to anodizing and exposure to UV. Doesn't take much IMO.....

    Black turns to a darkish eggplant within a year. The vid linked, he must have his rack on 24/7....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMrUWCnQaIk&t=7s
    Thanks for the link. Makes me glad I didn't get the black. Can't wait to try out my 1up tonight. Just got it yesterday.

  52. #3452
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    Got my 1upper today as well. I'm not sure how many 1uppers are sold volume wise , but it's night and day, now that I see it, in terms of build quality. For the OCD/golden eyes, mine did have a rub or two on the silver anodized finish here and there...

    The screws on the lever arm *fatbike cones retrofit* were a bear to remove. Was using regular hex keys and then Allen handled driver. I was scared I was either going to shear off the head or strip the screw. It was not budging one bit. I actually thought it was either loctited or SS cold weld Switched up to a 1/4 ratchet and but and strangely enough, the screws came out with not much force

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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    Got my 1upper today as well. I'm not sure how many 1uppers are sold volume wise , but it's night and day, now that I see it, in terms of build quality. For the OCD/golden eyes, mine did have a rub or two on the silver anodized finish here and there...

    The screws on the lever arm *fatbike cones retrofit* were a bear to remove. Was using regular hex keys and then Allen handled driver. I was scared I was either going to shear off the head or strip the screw. It was not budging one bit. I actually thought it was either loctited or SS cold weld Switched up to a 1/4 ratchet and but and strangely enough, the screws came out with not much force
    I just completely stripped those very bolts. Got 2 out and the other 2 rounded off so fast. Even got an extractor tool and my drill couldn't budge them either. Needless to say, I can't get the fat bike kit on one side so I'll be requesting a replacement. Not really happy about but hopefully 1up will replace it.

  54. #3454
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    Don't see why they should replace it...I would just drill it out and retap it.

  55. #3455
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    I'm at least going to see what they say. In my opinion the stripped bolts were no fault of my own. We can't be the only 2 people who have experienced how tight those things are in there. I've tried just about everything I can think of to get them out, I shouldn't have to drill and retap the holes.


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    Never mind, happy to say I got them out. Had to use a dremel and a cutoff wheel to slot the heads. Used a large screwdriver to finally get them out.


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  57. #3457
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    Those that mentioned the rack coming loose after driving on rough dirt roads, question for you.
    When you initially tighten it, do you lift the rack you are tightening it?
    I find there is a good 1/2 turn on the securing bolt after I lift it.

    I could see if you simply tighten it, without lifting, and driving on a bumpy road, how it might come loose.

  58. #3458
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    Hold my beer

    Liking the new rack so far.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170820_121738%5B1%5D.jpg

  59. #3459
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    OK I have a request for all 1up USA owners that have the following

    2010 Subaru Outback (or newer)

    with a

    DRAW TITE Class III Hitch
    https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eid=2012301542

    or

    Curt Class III Hitch
    https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eid=2012301541

    If you you owners can help me by snapping a pick of how far the bike rack goes in the hitch that would be super helpful.

    Thank you in advance for your consideration / help.

  60. #3460
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    Anyone have any experience using a 1up (single quick rack 1 1/4" to 2") with a bumper mount hitch - more specifically the Reese Towmaster step bumper hitch model# 81378)?
    I have a old 2wd pickup I'd like to add a hitch to to use my rack with (bed to be used by the dog -- w/ a camper shell of course!).
    I checked one out and it's definitely shorter (by approx. 1-1.5") than the hitch on my Yukon.
    Also, the reese bumper mount hitch has no 'back' on it - meaning the rack can be inserted and not hit any stop for installation.

    Any advice or real-world experience would be appreciated!

    Miguel

  61. #3461
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    Quote Originally Posted by m85476585 View Post
    They used to allow 4 trays on the 1 1/4" rack, but now they don't. They also don't allow 4 trays with the single bike 2" super duty base rack. They must have a reason, and the only difference I can see between what you have and the 2" heavy duty 2 tray rack is that there is no joint between tray 1 and tray 2 on the 2" 2-tray rack.

    I've never seen any movement at the joint between the trays with 3 bikes, but there is a large amount of force on those screws as you add more bikes.
    I think you are good with 4 road bikes on a 1-1/4" single quick rack setup, but as more of us have both road and trail bikes in our stables, they probably had to react to increasing warranty claims. Probably more of a product image issue than warranty coverage. If Joe Bob is too stupid to remember that he can't mount four MTB's with his setup, he'll probably bitch to all of his friends about how his 1UP broke, and the company didn't honor their warranty. Better to direct Joe Bob to getting that double rack right off the bat.

    You are correct on the stress on those bolts. They could build a Triple rack (if the receiver weld is strong enough) and let you add two add-on's, but I doubt we'll ever see that as the production cost would probably be ridiculous.

    That and the torque of a rack that long and that heavy would be intense. Seems all of the '5' and '6' bike racks out there are the top tube mount type, and they aren't long enough to properly space bikes to prevent scratches.
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  62. #3462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyo-Mig View Post
    Also, the reese bumper mount hitch has no 'back' on it - meaning the rack can be inserted and not hit any stop for installation.
    You can put a "hitch bar stop" on the rack if you like:

    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/hitch-bar-stop/
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    New 1Up tilt release handle gets delivered today. I'm out of town but will post pics an review next week. Cost is $69

  64. #3464
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    It looks like all the quibbling we've done about little issue is moot. Complete redesign for 2017 is up on their site now. It looks pretty great, especially the new hitch engagement.

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    WOW - there are some neat new features in the redesign for sure. not sure i could justify replacing my perfectly good and working V1 - but i do like the ease of add-ons, trigger mech for folding/pivoting etc... i only feel the new pivot release (retro fittable) is what will may my regular use of the rack even better. If you are in market for a new rack tho - no doubt this is the one.

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    Made an awesome rack even better. Much respect to 1UP USA for their design ingenuity. They really have made an awesome product!

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    I just saw the add for the new re-engineered rack on 1upusa.com. The design we all know and own is on 1up-usa.com

    Now 1upusa.com has a new re-designed rack but it is not yet available. Looks to be the original inventor of the Quick Rack. Company addresses are the next town over. Can someone explain?
    Last edited by Steve_MTB_22; 09-02-2017 at 05:30 AM.

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    I like the features- but don't like that they cheapened the construction. The welds are my favorite part of mine! (I maybe alone in finding joy in the craftsmanship of a bike rack lol)


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  69. #3469
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    I just saw the add for the new re-engineered rack on 1upusa.com. The design we all know and own is on 1up-usa.com

    Now 1upusa.com has a new re-designed rack but it is not yet available. Looks to be the original inventor of the Quick Rack. Company addresses are the next town over. Can someone explain?
    Really curious about this too. Not only is the physical address different, but the email and phone number on the new website is different as well. Are both websites for the same company or was there some sort of division?

  70. #3470
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    new features look better.....especially the hitch pin combined with tightening mechanism

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    Looks like possiblly a non compete ended?

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  72. #3472
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Looks like possiblly a non compete ended?

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    Wondering if it is something like that. Creation of a similar but different product. But then why would they use the same business name?

  73. #3473
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    I have seen this when a company goes under then reopens?
    Bolt together stuff is cheaper to manufacture. I like my welded rack.
    I like the hitch pin lock but it makes it not as adjustable. I don't like the quick release for the arms. My rack fits my or my wifes bike as it is, 26,27.5,29. I could see this as a benefit if you have kids but it would just be another thing that I would have to keep a eye on. The add on quick connect is very slick though.

  74. #3474
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlee View Post
    I have seen this when a company goes under then reopens?
    Bolt together stuff is cheaper to manufacture. I like my welded rack.
    I like the hitch pin lock but it makes it not as adjustable. I don't like the quick release for the arms. My rack fits my or my wifes bike as it is, 26,27.5,29. I could see this as a benefit if you have kids but it would just be another thing that I would have to keep a eye on. The add on quick connect is very slick though.
    Welding is nice. Although the new design will save me $60 for the 1.25" rack plus an add-on. Plus the new racks come with the rack locks.

    Not sure what the plans are for the actual bike locks since 1UP's previous design used lock pins going through the arm holes. The slots in the arms don't look large enough for the locks and wouldn't want them bouncing in the slots. Probably have to resort to a separate cable lock.

  75. #3475
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    Are the new add-ons compatible with the older racks? I have a 1 bike 1.25" black rack and want to purchase 1 bike add on.

    Looks like they revamped the whole site. Hope this is all a good thing.

  76. #3476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oktavius View Post
    Really curious about this too. Not only is the physical address different, but the email and phone number on the new website is different as well. Are both websites for the same company or was there some sort of division?
    Looking at the websites, I believe the "new" model is a rip-off copy. It doesn't look like it's made as well and they are going out of their way to point out the "issues" of the original. Some of their fixes look pretty cheesy to me.
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  77. #3477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oktavius View Post
    Wondering if it is something like that. Creation of a similar but different product. But then why would they use the same business name?
    To confuse customers...
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  78. #3478
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    Quote Originally Posted by k2rider1964 View Post
    To confuse customers...
    Might not be trying to confuse customers. Didn't 1UP USA change their website recently, including URL? The stickers on the original rack does not have a hyphen in the URL. Still lots of questions to be answered but don't think this is a nefarious clone we are looking at. Or maybe someone else bought the old URL...

  79. #3479
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    It looks like all the quibbling we've done about little issue is moot. Complete redesign for 2017 is up on their site now. It looks pretty great, especially the new hitch engagement.
    Hey man, do you remember back in June when I said, "1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch?" Several people promptly lost their shit and were complete pricks about it. You were one of only a few who agreed people were overreacting to my suggestion.

    So what exactly does 1up say about the new rack? Hmm, let's check their website:

    "After 8 years the 1up USA Quik-Rack has been completely redesigned and improved with great features. The anti-wobble Hitch System, with hand crank and lock, keeps the 1up USA Quik-Rack secure in the receiver."

    Brilliant.

  80. #3480
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    Quote Originally Posted by k2rider1964 View Post
    Looking at the websites, I believe the "new" model is a rip-off copy. It doesn't look like it's made as well and they are going out of their way to point out the "issues" of the original. Some of their fixes look pretty cheesy to me.
    It is odd that they tear apart their old product rather than just emphasize the new features -


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  81. #3481
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    I can almost guarantee that these are NOT from the same company, but a spin-off from ether a very dumb competitor or a disgruntled employee looking to embroil their former employer in a lawsuit. Either way, I'd not be ordering from the "new" company, that's for sure. You're likely to end up with a 2nd rate product without any long term support. And as someone previously mentioned, the only real improvement in my opinion is the hitch pin.

    Unrelated, but I ran into a situation for the first time that I knew was a problem with the 1UP design, but had never encountered personally. I had a flat yesterday and no way to repair it. The 1UP (and related designs) don't work well with a flat tire. I happened to have a giant sheet of paper that I waded up and stuffed between the roller and the flat tire to add tension and it worked okay, but this would not have been good for more than the few miles to home. Any ideas?
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  82. #3482
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    I ran into the same problem, a flat and no spare. I secured the bike as normal the used electrical (vinyl) tape to tape the wheels to the arms. I never go anywhere without e-tape in my vehicle, it is tough and doesn't tend to leave glue like duct tape.

  83. #3483
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlee View Post
    I ran into the same problem, a flat and no spare. I secured the bike as normal the used electrical (vinyl) tape to tape the wheels to the arms. I never go anywhere without e-tape in my vehicle, it is tough and doesn't tend to leave glue like duct tape.
    There are residue free duct tapes. I have a roll of this stuff and have used it for frame protection. Comes off without residue.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0G86VA..._LvfRzbHDDXRE4

  84. #3484
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    Here are some pics of my new heavy duty rack on my Mazda 3. I wasn't really a fan of the u-lock security option, so I got a "weather proof" padlock from a local locksmith and had him install a 3"shackle. A cable fits nicely in the shackle giving me a one key solution. I also don't mind using the Velcro strap as a backup. As a plus, my hatch clears the rack when it is folded in the fully up stowed position making access to the back really easy!! Loving it so far.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170905_102409.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170905_102420.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170905_102439.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170905_102454.jpg  

    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

  85. #3485
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    Quote Originally Posted by briantortilla View Post
    I also don't mind using the Velcro strap as a backup.
    Your Velcro strap isn't a backup. With your setup, the strap is the only thing preventing the rack from separating from the car should the locking ball loosen up and allow the rack to back out of the hitch.

    Those of us that went with the Ulock did so for theft prevention and because we wanted something more than Velcro keeping the rack attached to the car in the event of the locking ball failing. Otherwise, I think you have a nice setup.

  86. #3486
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    Regarding the new design - I am a little pissed that I just bought the old design, but after looking at the new one, aside from the tilt feature and the ease of adding multiple add-ons (which I don't plan on doing), I'm glad I have the old welded design.

    The QR feature is nice if you deal with 20" bikes, I usually don't (QR hardware can probably be figured out for the old design as well). The locking pin is also nice, but as someone else said above - then you are limited to where you can place your rack in the receiver. The cost savings would be nice, but not a huge deal when you're talking about a lifetime rack.

    The tilt feature is really nice though. I wonder if they will offer a retrofit kit for the older racks.

  87. #3487
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    Maybe some insight into the confusion.

    Since this is the only link that has some comments about the confusion I thought I would register to add some insight. I am in no way affiliated with them, I only found this when researching the rack I want to buy. The 1up-usa website obviously has all of the products but it was just created in 2016 and has Robbie Lange listed as the contact. The 1upusa website is terrible and obviously has no way or ordering things nor does anyone actually answer the phone number listed and it is listed as being owned by a Cal Phillips since 2000. I asked 1up-usa about this confusion and they immediately got back to me via an e-mail as well as answered my call when I called to clarify. They say it is a fake and that 1up-usa is the official site to order products. I dug a little further and found this interesting article that sends you down the road of a previous comment about a disgruntled worker, or in this case the disgruntled inventor. Dickeyville bike rack business on a roll | Tri-state News | telegraphherald.com

  88. #3488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futahaguro View Post
    Since this is the only link that has some comments about the confusion I thought I would register to add some insight. I am in no way affiliated with them, I only found this when researching the rack I want to buy. The 1up-usa website obviously has all of the products but it was just created in 2016 and has Robbie Lange listed as the contact. The 1upusa website is terrible and obviously has no way or ordering things nor does anyone actually answer the phone number listed and it is listed as being owned by a Cal Phillips since 2000. I asked 1up-usa about this confusion and they immediately got back to me via an e-mail as well as answered my call when I called to clarify. They say it is a fake and that 1up-usa is the official site to order products. I dug a little further and found this interesting article that sends you down the road of a previous comment about a disgruntled worker, or in this case the disgruntled inventor. Dickeyville bike rack business on a roll | Tri-state News | telegraphherald.com
    The situation is discussed at length in this thread:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up...t-1055205.html

  89. #3489
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69tr6r View Post
    The tilt feature is really nice though. I wonder if they will offer a retrofit kit for the older racks.
    Out last week
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/ez-pull/

  90. #3490
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    The situation is discussed at length in this thread:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/car-biker/1up...t-1055205.html
    Thanks.

  91. #3491
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    Quote Originally Posted by 72guy View Post
    Thanks 72guy, but I have a single rack.

  92. #3492
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    Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up.

    I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:

    FWIW, I previously had a Yakima Holdup for @6 years. I regularly move between a 2-bike setup and 4 bike setup. I use my rack for trail bikes, kids bikes, road bikes, and fat bikes.

    1. The rack is heavy af. I get that it's well built and such, but damn.
    2. The release mechanism for tilting sucked. It sometimes pulls on one end, sometimes both. I had to regularly lube mine to keep it from jamming up from dust/ dirt.
    3. The release mechanism sucks even more if you have more than 1-2 bike trays on. The rack is nearly impossible to manage/ tilt with one person when it has 4 bike trays- even without bikes!
    4. Like I said, I might have four fat bikes in the rack one day and a mixture of family bikes the next. Having to get tools out to adjust the height of the wheel bars (or whatever they're called) to accommodate different sizes of bikes is a PITA.
    5. I originally just converted all of mine to the fat bike adapters, but found that both kids bikes and road bikes did not fare well with the wide stance of the bars, almost falling out of my rack several times. Again, having to get tools out and take the whole thing apart to be able to accommodate different bikes is whack.
    6. The rack came loose and shifted out of my hitch about 1" more than once. Always on rough 4x4 roads, but still. I cranked on it, built a little retention thing to ensure it wouldn't fall out completely, etc-- but it's a $1000 rack. I thought it was kinda lame that I have to develop things myself to make it better (I also made a pull so you could release and tilt it from the back, but again, kinda lame that I had to do that for such an expensive rack).
    7. The release mechanisms on the arms are poorly engineered and can be over-extended easily - especially by friends/ people who aren't familiar with the mechanism. They also got gummed up with dirt easily.
    8. I found getting bikes out to be kind of a pain. The way the securing bars hold the tires, once you release one of the wheels, you then need both hands to undo the other wheel, and the securing bar often kinda sticks to the tire and needs to be man-handled a bit. With two hands needed to release the bar, the bike kinda falls over as you release it.

    I think that's it. Again, just MY experience, given MY needs out of a 2-4 bike hitch rack, and, obviously, YMMV. The new design looks like it addresses most of these concerns, save maybe the going back and forth between fat bikes and skinnier wheels, but they also do sell an adapter for that. It's also cheaper, so that's better, too.

    So far, I'm loving the Thule. It's lighter, has a release mechanism in the back, and can accommodate every bike in our family's fleet (and friends) without any changes/ adjustments/ tools. Goes in in less than 10 seconds and locks to the hitch with a built twist handle - no extra tools/ gismos, etc. Totally impressed so far.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  93. #3493
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up.

    I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:

    FWIW, I previously had a Yakima Holdup for @6 years. I regularly move between a 2-bike setup and 4 bike setup. I use my rack for trail bikes, kids bikes, road bikes, and fat bikes.

    1. The rack is heavy af. I get that it's well built and such, but damn.
    When I purchased it, it was the lightest wheel holding platform rack for 4 bikes, including Kuat.
    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    2. The release mechanism for tilting sucked. It sometimes pulls on one end, sometimes both. I had to regularly lube mine to keep it from jamming up from dust/ dirt.
    I never had to lube it. Yes, it suffers from friction, and I have to pull it up slightly to release it from horizontal position.
    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    3. The release mechanism sucks even more if you have more than 1-2 bike trays on. The rack is nearly impossible to manage/ tilt with one person when it has 4 bike trays- even without bikes!
    Not true. I always handle it alone (4 trays), and I am not a powerlifter by any means. Just regular 5'8" white collar who attends gym 3-4 times a year. All you need to do is find the right position. However, the new release looks like definite improvement.
    I do not think a 4-bike tilting platform rack exist which a single person might operate with bikes loaded. Bikes alone would weight 100+ pounds!
    The only way to handle 4 bikes loaded would be a swing rack, but the weight of a swing platform rack would be prohibitive IMHO.
    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    4. Like I said, I might have four fat bikes in the rack one day and a mixture of family bikes the next. Having to get tools out to adjust the height of the wheel bars (or whatever they're called) to accommodate different sizes of bikes is a PITA.
    5. I originally just converted all of mine to the fat bike adapters, but found that both kids bikes and road bikes did not fare well with the wide stance of the bars, almost falling out of my rack several times. Again, having to get tools out and take the whole thing apart to be able to accommodate different bikes is whack.
    Yes, fat adapters might not be suitable for road bikes, but using second to the tallest position I can carry 29 to 24" MTB, and the tallest possible position accommodates everything from 29+ to 26" MTB. Can't comment on, say, 20" because 24" is the smallest we have. QR from the new design can be a nice feature if it proves to be reliable.
    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    6. The rack came loose and shifted out of my hitch about 1" more than once. Always on rough 4x4 roads, but still. I cranked on it, built a little retention thing to ensure it wouldn't fall out completely, etc-- but it's a $1000 rack. I thought it was kinda lame that I have to develop things myself to make it better (I also made a pull so you could release and tilt it from the back, but again, kinda lame that I had to do that for such an expensive rack).
    Never happened to me which does not mean it may never happen.
    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    7. The release mechanisms on the arms are poorly engineered and can be over-extended easily - especially by friends/ people who aren't familiar with the mechanism. They also got gummed up with dirt easily.
    8. I found getting bikes out to be kind of a pain. The way the securing bars hold the tires, once you release one of the wheels, you then need both hands to undo the other wheel, and the securing bar often kinda sticks to the tire and needs to be man-handled a bit. With two hands needed to release the bar, the bike kinda falls over as you release it.
    Never had issues with dirt or heavily stuck tire, and do not see how overextending can harm. Simple trick to avoid the bike falling out is to always release the front wheel first. At least this is how I do this.

  94. #3494
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up.

    I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:
    ...
    So far, I'm loving the Thule. It's lighter, has a release mechanism in the back, and can accommodate every bike in our family's fleet (and friends) without any changes/ adjustments/ tools. Goes in in less than 10 seconds and locks to the hitch with a built twist handle - no extra tools/ gismos, etc. Totally impressed so far.
    I was surprised to read that T2 Pro XT is lighter, and checked: it is not.
    It weights 52lb + adapter 35lb = 87lb.
    1UP is 46 + 2x18 = 82lb.

    Main reason I excluded T2 when shopping was, a friend of mine had the original T2, and the arms developed a very noticeable play very fast. The bikes did not look that stable. Add to this visible rust, a lot of plastic (which did not break though), and strap for a rear wheel which is not the best approach for carbon rims. And I did not even know about sliding trays then! I hope the Pro has this addressed.

  95. #3495
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    Kosulin- again, YMMV. Just my experience with it. Yeah, the earlier versions of the T2 were pretty janky and I didn't care for them at all. The new version is really nice and feels really solid. Rust and such will remain to be seen. And it does still have the strap on the rear wheel, though with a little buffer/ sheath on it. I had a strap on my old Yakima as well with carbon rims and never noticed any issues (and the wheels still run strong).

    As for weight, I guess it's a matter of handling and positioning. With the rear release latch on the back of the T2 XT Pro, I can lower and raise the rack with 4 bikes on it fairly easily. It also stops lowering a little sooner than the 1up (whenever I tried to do this with the 1up, it went so far down that I was kinda pinched by a bike and made it very awkward to both lower and raise). I even had my wife lower it and raise it the other day and she was surprised by how easy it was. Leverage, I guess.

    Happy you're enjoying yours, and everyone else who likes it. You're part of why I went ahead with the purchase. But, for my daily use, it wasn't a good fit. Just thought others who might be shopping/ getting ready to pull the trigger might want another point of view.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  96. #3496
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Wow- I was getting on here to post my .02 after having the 1up for about 9 months, but nearly every bit of feedback I had seems to be addressed in the new design. For posterity's sake, I'll include some of my issues with the 1up.

    I wanted to love the 1up. It's a lot of money to spend on a hitch rack, and I spent months following this thread and talking to others about it before pulling the trigger - but nothing is better than experience. I recently sold mine and picked up a Thule T2 XT Pro, which I am loving. Here are reasons why I eventually moved on:

    1. The rack is heavy af. I get that it's well built and such, but damn.
    2. The release mechanism for tilting sucked. It sometimes pulls on one end, sometimes both. I had to regularly lube mine to keep it from jamming up from dust/ dirt.
    3. The release mechanism sucks even more if you have more than 1-2 bike trays on. The rack is nearly impossible to manage/ tilt with one person when it has 4 bike trays- even without bikes!
    4. Like I said, I might have four fat bikes in the rack one day and a mixture of family bikes the next. Having to get tools out to adjust the height of the wheel bars (or whatever they're called) to accommodate different sizes of bikes is a PITA.
    5. I originally just converted all of mine to the fat bike adapters, but found that both kids bikes and road bikes did not fare well with the wide stance of the bars, almost falling out of my rack several times. Again, having to get tools out and take the whole thing apart to be able to accommodate different bikes is whack.
    6. The rack came loose and shifted out of my hitch about 1" more than once. Always on rough 4x4 roads, but still. I cranked on it, built a little retention thing to ensure it wouldn't fall out completely, etc-- but it's a $1000 rack. I thought it was kinda lame that I have to develop things myself to make it better (I also made a pull so you could release and tilt it from the back, but again, kinda lame that I had to do that for such an expensive rack).
    7. The release mechanisms on the arms are poorly engineered and can be over-extended easily - especially by friends/ people who aren't familiar with the mechanism. They also got gummed up with dirt easily.
    8. I found getting bikes out to be kind of a pain. The way the securing bars hold the tires, once you release one of the wheels, you then need both hands to undo the other wheel, and the securing bar often kinda sticks to the tire and needs to be man-handled a bit. With two hands needed to release the bar, the bike kinda falls over as you release it.
    I agree with all of your points. I also just sold my 1up rack that I purchased 14 months ago this week, and now use a Saris Superclamp 2 that I picked up back in May. Heavy AF was the main reason I went with the Saris Superclamp; for two bikes, the Superclamp weighs 10 lbs less. I don't leave it on the car when I am not using it so taking a heavy rack on and off gets old quick. The Superclamp 2 also costs 40% less (when on sale, which is often) compared to the 1up.

    I never changed the wheel holder spool position or carried any bikes other than mountain bikes with non fat tires on mine so I can't comment about those items. I only had my rack come loose the first time I used it, but maybe that was everything settling in and also on a rough dirt road as it was fine after that. The new design does seem to address almost all of these issues and looks to be a nice improvement, provided it has the same level of fit and finish.

    I think platform hitch racks have evolved to the point that most are great designs, and the 1up does not stand out from the crowd like it once did. At this point, it's hard to justify the extra cost over other options which perform just as well.
    Last edited by JustMtnB44; 09-08-2017 at 03:46 PM.

  97. #3497
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    I carry road bikes with my fat bike adapters all of the time. Zero issues. I also carry bikes from 5" fatties all the way to 26" without adjusting the arms. If i carry a 24 or 20 inch then yes, it has to be moved. Not an issue. I'd rather have a metal rack with replaceable parts than a plastic one where my warranty is voided the moment I drive it on a dirt road.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  98. #3498
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    1. Thule weighs 5lbs more
    2. Not an issue with the EZpull handle
    3. See #2
    4. No opinion
    5. 2 choices--get rid of the kids or the fat tires. Just kidding, see previous posts where folks don't seem to have those issues.
    6. At $1000 you overpaid. The Thule and the 1Up are in the same price caregory-expensive
    7. Haven't had any issues with this.
    8. Operator error--after releasing the front wheel, as previously mentioned, one hand easily breaks the rear tire free from the bar while steadying the front of the bike with the other hand.

    I'm sure someone picked up a sweet deal on a 1Up.


    Thule T2 Pro XT 9034XT
    Premium, platform hitch bike rack delivering maximum strength, security and user friendliness (for 2-4 bikes)
    $579.95

    Technical specifications
    Max number of bikes 2
    Load capacity 120 lb
    Max bike weight 60 lb
    Dimensions 54 x 15 x 43 in
    Folded dimensions 54.7 x 22.5 x 33.8 in
    Weight 52 lb
    Distance between bikes 12.5 in
    Tilt function (with bikes)
    Fits 1.25" receivers
    Fits 2" receivers
    One Key System compatible
    Bike lock included
    Receiver lock included
    Model number 9034XTB

    1Up USA
    2″ Super Duty Double
    $559.00–$639.00

    Product Description
    – Fits 2” receiver
    – Fixed 2-bike system (second tray cannot be removed)
    – Rack weight 47 lb.
    – Increase bike capacity to 3 bikes (50–75 lb.) or 4 bikes (50 lb. or less) with additional Add-Ons (sold separately)
    – Total carrying capacity of up to 275 lb. (50–75 lb. per bike spot) due to the added support bar under the tray
    – Fits 16”–29” wheels, up to 3.1” wide (see spacer kit for tires wider than 3.1”)*
    – Accommodates up to 54” wheelbase
    – Rapid tilt and folding mechanism for smaller footprint
    – Rack arms close to secure tires without touching the frame
    – Ships in reusable box for easy storage (38” x 14” x 10”), shipping weight 53 lb.
    – Compatible with the Standard and Super-Duty Add-Ons (sold separately)
    – All rack parts anodized, except a powder-coat finish on the trays

  99. #3499
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosulin View Post
    I was surprised to read that T2 Pro XT is lighter, and checked: it is not.
    It weights 52lb + adapter 35lb = 87lb.
    1UP is 46 + 2x18 = 82lb.

    Main reason I excluded T2 when shopping was, a friend of mine had the original T2, and the arms developed a very noticeable play very fast. The bikes did not look that stable. Add to this visible rust, a lot of plastic (which did not break though), and strap for a rear wheel which is not the best approach for carbon rims. And I did not even know about sliding trays then! I hope the Pro has this addressed.
    I've had the original T2 for over 10 years. 100% bulletproof with zero issues. That rack has at least 50K miles under it's belt including a crapload of off-road driving to get to trails. It's showing it's age though and I want the newer handle release design....my only issue with the original. No rust (but I do live in arid SoCal), no play in the arms.
    2017 Pivot 5.5
    2017 Intense Primer
    2016 Santa Cruz 5010

  100. #3500
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    I just came back to this thread....did not see it in the last couple of posts but ya'll have seen the NEW rack

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=43WSDih6mOQ

Members who have read this thread: 568

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