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  1. #201
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    Depending on which generation Mundo you have, you may also need a new headset. At the back you may have a hard time shifting to low gears, so a longer bottom bracket axle or a different rear hub may be needed (take a look at my Yuba at the beginning of this thread.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by fox1965 View Post
    Depending on which generation Mundo you have, you may also need a new headset. At the back you may have a hard time shifting to low gears, so a longer bottom bracket axle or a different rear hub may be needed (take a look at my Yuba at the beginning of this thread.
    It is a version 4 (2011). Any difference between the Moonlander or Necro forks? I think they are the same except for paint.

  3. #203
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    You have to look at these fork characteristics - axle to crown distance, width, offset, trail (trail is a result of fork-frame-wheel combo, so you will not find it). Both Yuba and Surly should be able to tell you other data. Then choose an offset and the axle-crown distance closest to your current fork. My old version Surly fork came pretty close. It put the bottom bracket a bit higher and gave my Yuba a livelier feel, which I find as a good think in the end. Good luck and post the picture after you are done.

  4. #204
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    Fresno check out Motormans Fat Mundo thread for some more detail of his build.

    Some fork comparison numbers;
    Yuba standard v4 fork axle to crown 418mm, fork offset 59mm
    Surly Pugs fork axle to crown 447mm, fork offset 43mm
    Surly Big Dummy fork axle to crown 425mm, fork offset 43mm

    I imagine that the higher than usual fork offset if the Yuba is designed to give a more stable ride. I don't know, but that it might be more important if using the big front rack loaded?

    When I put the numbers through a trail calculator putting a BD fork on gave the same trail numbers as my rigid MTB, which is probably why folk with that set up report it feeling more nimble. I guess it also makes it feel more normal.

    The Clown shoe rim and Moonlander fork are probably overkill unless you have a specific purpose.

    If you go with the Pugs 100mm fork you could use the standard rim or perhaps a standard front wheel with a 42mm - 50mm.

    It's worth considering the effect of much larger tyres and longer forks raising the BB. Good for off road clearance, but harder to control the loaded weight when starting and stopping

  5. #205
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    My Yuba has two months and around 800 km. It serves well and during its operation I am identifying things to improve. One of them is the gear ratio. On my way to the downtown there is a long, moderate descent. On my road bike I use to go there around 60 kmph. Yuba has a 24/34/44 chainwheel and that in the combination with the 14 rings on the smallest freewheel means, that the bike is slower in the traffic. (I realized this when I tried to overtake the bus leaving the stop: we were going side by side around 200 meters and I was not able to go before it, pedaling as fast as I could. )

    A solution could be changing the chainwheel to something like 22/39/53. I don't need small differences in the possible gear ratios but I still need light ratio to go uphill with a loaded bike.

    Do you have some experiences in changing the front chainwheel? Should I expect any complications?

    Thanks

  6. #206
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    I would not recommend switching to a much bigger chainring. Since Mundo's wheels are further apart than on a regular bicycle, it's bottom bracket (and the largest chainwheel) is relatively lower to the ground when riding over bumps on a changing slope off-road. Would a 13 tooth freewheel fit over the rear axel? Or next time ride behind the bus and overtake it while it stops to un/load passengers:-)

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jozo View Post
    My Yuba has two months and around 800 km. It serves well and during its operation I am identifying things to improve. One of them is the gear ratio. On my way to the downtown there is a long, moderate descent. On my road bike I use to go there around 60 kmph. Yuba has a 24/34/44 chainwheel and that in the combination with the 14 rings on the smallest freewheel means, that the bike is slower in the traffic. (I realized this when I tried to overtake the bus leaving the stop: we were going side by side around 200 meters and I was not able to go before it, pedaling as fast as I could. )

    A solution could be changing the chainwheel to something like 22/39/53. I don't need small differences in the possible gear ratios but I still need light ratio to go uphill with a loaded bike.

    Do you have some experiences in changing the front chainwheel? Should I expect any complications?

    Thanks
    I'm not sure what kind of cranks the stock mundo has. If the rings are removable, you could get a 48t chainring and maybe a 50t if you're lucky, assuming 4 bolt 104mm bcd (bolt circle diameter).

    The more pricey but easy option would be to get a road triple crank and chainring setup, such as a sora or tiagra one. (it's 9sp but that won't matter, worst case scenario, you might need to upgrade the chain too, I don't know what the stock yuba has and can't tell from pics on their site, 8sp chain will work great as upgrade)
    I google it and found one for <90, but you can probably do a bit better looking around
    Shimano 2011 Sora 9-Speed Triple Road Bicycle Crank Set - FC-3403 : Browse All Products
    (edit: just noticed this one doesn't include the necessary hollowtech II bottom bracket, look around as I think you can find a road triple for around this price that does include bb.)
    Sugino makes a nice forged square taper crankset that *might* work with your current bb, but this depends on its length and once again, can't tell this spec from the yuba site (though no manufacturer gives this detail)
    here's the sugino: Sugino XD600 26/36/46 Triple Crankset in Tree Fort Bikes Cranks (cat119)
    and you might need to buy a new bb too, but you won't know until you measure the old one (spindle length[~100-125mm range]) and compare it to what the sugino requires.
    Once you have 5 bolt 110mm bcd you have a lot more chainring options. I have a cheapo steel 50t 5 bolt ring I got for nearly free from a shop that does used bikes.

    The complication is that your front derailleur should roughly match the curvature of the big ring for good shifting. If you go substantially bigger than what you have now, your derailleur might be sub optimal, but you can probably live with that. You just have slide it up the seat-tube until the derailleur cage clears the big ring.

    I'm not sure about how small of a gear you can have on the rear wheel, as this is an unusual wheel, but you do have the option of putting a regular cassette w/ 3/8" to 14mm axle adaptors and then you can go up to 10sp and down to 11t, though changing the number of gears would require new chain, shifters, etc. Replacing your cranks would be the cheap place to start.

    Regarding Fox's comment, yes high bottoming will be more problematic in off-road situations, so this could be applicable, depending on where you take the bike.

  8. #208
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    Xmas Tree

    Xmas Tree
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Yuba Mundo Thread-img_0801.jpg  

    The Yuba Mundo Thread-img_0800.jpg  

    The Yuba Mundo Thread-img_0799.jpg  

    The Yuba Mundo Thread-img_0803.jpg  

    The Yuba Mundo Thread-img_0802.jpg  


  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by fox1965 View Post
    Xmas Tree
    Nice. Unfortunately, we have an artificial christmas tree, so I can't make this type of transport with my Yuba. But maybe someone from my relatives will need a tree, I must ask them, if they need a transporter

  10. #210
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    Does anybody have a child seat for larger child (5+ yrs) mounted on a Yuba? I hope my daughter will ride her own bike as much as she can, but for longer rides or for travelling through the dense traffic and with no child-safe bike routes the seat is necessary.

    The only applicable product that I have found so far is the GMG Classic 911 (sorry, I can't post link here , you must substitute dot for .: www dot rijwielreus dot nl/yepp/1351-kinderzitje-achter-911-met-voetsteun-8715362002075.html). I am not sure about the mounting. Can be the seat mounted to the rear carrier as is delivered, or some special adapter/DIY work is needed?

    Is the width between the seat's leg supporters sufficient for Yuba?
    Sometimes it can be useful to have only the child seat without the leg supporters (for a big box or Go-getters mounting) - is it possible to remove the supporters? I have found a picture (again, I can't attach the picture www dot senselife dot co dot uk/GMG/GMG_911_underside_2500.jpg), it looks like the horizontal part of the supporters can be unscrewed, but what about the vertical one?

    Perhaps there is another child seat like GMG Classic 911, you can recommend it to me

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jozo View Post
    Nice. Unfortunately, we have an artificial christmas tree, so I can't make this type of transport with my Yuba. But maybe someone from my relatives will need a tree, I must ask them, if they need a transporter
    There's absolutely no reason you can't give your artificial tree a ride around the block!

  12. #212
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    The Bionx was fun for awhile but I ended up selling it. Having the drive wheel up front meant my bike was actually two wheel drive. I am going to have some 65mm rims on this bad boy soon.

  13. #213
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    heavy bulky load

    Just brought home two shoe cabinets, about under hundred pounds each on the loaders. The bike handled just fine. Cabinets seemed to be easier to carry when tied on the bike in the tall position and forward rather than low and partly beyond the rear axle. Looks like getting the center of gravity higher is less of a problem than moving it backwards. Happy new year!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Yuba Mundo Thread-img_0806.jpg  


  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by fox1965 View Post
    Looks like getting the center of gravity higher is less of a problem than moving it backwards.
    Good to know, I am planning to buy new kitchen cabinets. But in my case, the taller one will be over 2 m high, so placing it vertically will be a real challenge

  15. #215
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    I tried to load them both vertically and horizontally. Horizontally placed boxes sucked, there was too much load behind the rear axle. Vertically placed boxes were surprisingly easy to carry. But those boxes were only 4ft tall. Good luck and post a picture!

  16. #216
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    Yes, placing something behind the rear axle is really tricky, when my wife and daughter sit on the rear carrier (without child seat), the daughter sits in front and it can be seen on the bike maneuverability. Inverse order of passangers is impossible, my wife serves also as a backrest for the child

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jozo View Post
    Yes, placing something behind the rear axle is really tricky, when my wife and daughter sit on the rear carrier (without child seat), the daughter sits in front and it can be seen on the bike maneuverability. Inverse order of passangers is impossible, my wife serves also as a backrest for the child
    This is why having a solid front basket/rack can be especially helpful. When weight is unavoidable behind the axle, you can make the bike a lot safer by adding weight to the front wheel so you still have proper handling and good steering traction.

    I just use a cheapo rack that mounts to the fork, but hope to eventually get the yuba frame mounted one or find someone to fabricate one for me. Even with only modest weight behind the axle, I am more confident with some weight up front balancing things out. for example, when I put 40lbs of groceries evenly distributed across the rear rack, I like to strap a 12 pack to the front rack. It shows the world my fine choice in beer as well.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    This is why having a solid front basket/rack can be especially helpful. When weight is unavoidable behind the axle, you can make the bike a lot safer by adding weight to the front wheel so you still have proper handling and good steering traction.

    I just use a cheapo rack that mounts to the fork, but hope to eventually get the yuba frame mounted one or find someone to fabricate one for me. Even with only modest weight behind the axle, I am more confident with some weight up front balancing things out. for example, when I put 40lbs of groceries evenly distributed across the rear rack, I like to strap a 12 pack to the front rack. It shows the world my fine choice in beer as well.
    My last commuting bike was a 20 years old one additionally equipped with a front rack ("L" shaped Steco with 25 kgs load capacity) and it was really addictive to have a large storing area at hand. I am missing this on my Mundo. In fact, I also bought a front carrier with my Mundo (mounted to the frame but not the bread basket), but it is still not on the bike. The main reason is limited parking space in my flat, the bike is parked between doors and a wardrobe with the front wheel turned right

    On the previous bike I used to ride with a "front loaded" bike, I have two boxes, which can be alternitively attached to the carrier. The bigger one has dimensions 60x40x30 cm and when fully loaded, the bike had a center of gravity on the handlebars. So it was another extreme

  19. #219
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    how to park your Yuba Mundo

    Where space is limited, Yuba Mundo should be parked on its tail. If you are not confident about its stability, bungee-cord it to a screw in the wall or furniture.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Yuba Mundo Thread-img_0094.jpg  


  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by fox1965 View Post
    . Cabinets seemed to be easier to carry when tied on the bike in the tall position and forward rather than low and partly beyond the rear axle. Looks like getting the center of gravity higher is less of a problem than moving it backwards. Happy new year!
    Not sure if it is still there, but the Yuba site used to have a video where Ben is using a Mundo to deliver two more Mundos to the shipping office, carrying them tall-wise as you found works best.

    Carrying weight low makes the bike easier to manage when stopped and/or parked. Carrying weight high, as long as it is secure, actually makes the bike more stable when moving, because it tends to fall over slower, giving more time for the bike or rider to steer the wheels back under the load.

    Carrying weight behind the rear axle is bad for several reasons. One that many do not appreciate is that when you steer left, weight behind the axle actually moves to the right before the whole shebang starts moving to the left. This is the wrong direction for balancing. You can carry _some_ weight back there, but it needs to be more than offset by the weight of the rider, bike, and loads carried well forward.

  21. #221
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    Does somebody have Yuba Go-getter bag in silver/gray version? (photo).
    I would like to buy this bag (preferably in black/orange colour), but at the local bike shop they have only the grey version and I am afraid that it will be very dirty after some time. Is it so?

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by gumby_kevbo View Post
    Carrying weight low makes the bike easier to manage when stopped and/or parked. Carrying weight high, as long as it is secure, actually makes the bike more stable when moving, because it tends to fall over slower, giving more time for the bike or rider to steer the wheels back under the load.

    Carrying weight behind the rear axle is bad for several reasons. One that many do not appreciate is that when you steer left, weight behind the axle actually moves to the right before the whole shebang starts moving to the left. This is the wrong direction for balancing. You can carry _some_ weight back there, but it needs to be more than offset by the weight of the rider, bike, and loads carried well forward.
    I disagree with some of your ideas. while having the weight high does make tipping slower, it also means you have to do a lot more to keep the weight up there; you just have more time to do it. Practically speaking, a lower center of gravity on a cargo bike is almost always going to make the bike easier to handle, which might include tipping faster, but nobody cares if your 100 lb load on a fifty foot tall pole tips over slowly.

    To me the big thing about loads behind the axle isn't what direction they go when I turn, but that those loads can unweight the front wheel Having a good bit of weight on the front wheel is extremely important so that you get good traction during turns and braking. This is why I wouldn't want to ride an unloaded bakfiets down a big hill and try to stop quickly...not enough weight on the front wheel (or at least I suspect, but never actually tried this).

  23. #223
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    Yestarday I was going to work on my older bike and had some technical difficulties during ride, so I had to leave it locked halfway near a shopping mall.

    In the evening I came with my Mundo and for the first time tried towing. The second bike (with a front carrier and a box on it) was attached to the left side, all lights turned on and the ride could start. The bikes were perfectly ridable, only minus was the weight (both bikes had almost 50 kg together) and it was slight uphill from the mall to my home - I feeled it like a steep uphill in fact. Streets were empty at that time. Fog, no pedestrians, only few cars, but their drivers were looking curiosly and surprised, like the did not believe their own eyes

    Before action
    The Yuba Mundo Thread-before.jpg
    Ready to go
    The Yuba Mundo Thread-readytogo.jpg
    Mission completed
    The Yuba Mundo Thread-home.jpg

  24. #224
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    Jozo: What was the "technical difficulty?"

  25. #225
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    Problem with the freewheel after long winter with lack of servicing I was planning to put it to service next week, but unfortunately it did not last so long

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