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  1. #1
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    Trailers.........?

    Is this the place to ask about trailers? If it is not, a mod can move this to the right place

    A little background. I live and work in Tokyo Japan, right downtown, in Shinjuku, well, just a couple of good baseball throws from "right downtown" I guess

    My lovely wife and I run her family's business, that is a liquor shop, among my many duties is doing the deliveries to restaurants and homes of customers. Right now I mainly use a three wheeled 50cc scooter, a Honda Gyro.

    It is a workhorse and I've put a ton of miles on it, I've rebuilt the clutch once and I've rebuilt the motor twice.

    The thing is about 80% of my deliveries are doable by a bicycle and trailer, and it would be a great way to get back into biking and get in shape.

    I'm rebuilding my old Cannondale right now, you can see that thread >> HERE << so I'll use that as my pull bike.

    I will build the trailer myself, I have a MIG welder and know how to use it, heck I built my own 14" bandsaw for my woodworking stuff

    I guess before I go any further, I'll ask again; is this where I should be asking about building a trailer for my bike?

    Cheers!

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    Stu, How much weight are you talking about? I'm thinking maybe modify a BOB Ibex to take 2 wheels on the swingarm so the bike and trailer are self standing when you stop to deliver. The suspension would work well for the, I assume, bottles and you could easily get 45Kg on there. The BOB connection to the bike is bullet proof and very simple to connect / disconnect when loaded or empty.

    Al

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    Quote Originally Posted by alanm
    Stu, How much weight are you talking about? I'm thinking maybe modify a BOB Ibex to take 2 wheels on the swingarm so the bike and trailer are self standing when you stop to deliver. The suspension would work well for the, I assume, bottles and you could easily get 45Kg on there. The BOB connection to the bike is bullet proof and very simple to connect / disconnect when loaded or empty.

    Al

    Thanks for the reply Al, the thing is, I'm in Japan, and getting a BOB trailer might be a bit costly. I have the tools and the skills to build whatever I want, "Have MIG Welder, Will Travel"

    One case of beer weighs 27Kg, I would need to carry twice that on occasion, but usually closer to say 35 KG.

    Here in Japan, some of the FedEx kind of guys use bicycles with trailers to do parcel delivery......
    Trailers.........?-electric_bike_trailer.jpg Name:  electric_bike_trailer2.jpg
Views: 4241
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    They all use a hitch that hooks up to the seat post, I think part of that is because they don't want the arm on the side....? Dunno, but there are a lot of them around now, and they seem to work well.

    There is a guy here who makes trailers, but the size is not exactly what I want.

    Some videos of said trailer and it's hitch.


    Trailer on the move


    How the hitch works

    I found the gimble thing here for about $8, and like I said, I can make the rest. My buddy owns a bike shop, (not a REAL bike shop, a local neighbour hood bike shop) and he gets throw away bikes from time to time, I've asked him to get me two 20" front wheels, they should work good for this.


    >> Bicycle Trailer <<
    Here is the website that sell that trailer, yes it is all in Japanese, but you can click around and take alook.

    Super light weight is not the main concern, I'm NOT going to be pulling this thing 8 hours a day, ease of use, safety, durability and reliability are important.

    I think I can do this, now I just have to do some more head scratching.

    Cheers!

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    Stu,

    If you're going to build it yourself might I suggest you use 700 c wheels or simular but keep the bed height right down low like the red 20" version. The reason for this is to keep the centre of mass of your load well below the pivot point, which is your axle. This will give you a very real increase in stability and make it easy to handle even pushing by hand, even with two wheels. I've modded a BOB Yak and Ibex to take 26" Endo's, 29"s overall, the Ibex was a screaming disaster because the builder did it his way and didn't follow my drawings, the load was far too high. The Yak was more successful but I'm having the bed lowered this week by another 100mm because of the pivot point issue. I carry around 50Kg regularly and tow off road and dirt tracks here in Oz.

    Here's a few links, I did quite a bit of research when deciding on mine. Not suggesting you buy but gather ideas instead.

    Al

    http://www.tonystrailers.com/singlewheelers/

    http://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/produ...rs/cyclone.php

    http://www.carryfreedom.com/products.html

  5. #5
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    Al, a BIG thanks for that, the first link, Tony's trailers, has a ton of info, great reading!

    I can get the 26" wheels with tires and tubes ready to do for free, maybe I will go that route. I was already planing on dropping the cargo carrying floor of the trailer fairly close to the ground, I just figured it would be better, but now reading that page I understand why it will be better, and more stable.

    Thanks!

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    Pleasure Post some pics when you get it done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alanm
    Pleasure Post some pics when you get it done.
    You bet, I'm a bit well known for posting a LOT of pictures when building something, mainly woodworking stuff.


    I talked to my buddy accross the street today, and said I'd changed my mind, I want two 26" wheels, the type the come on a regular Japanese bike, aluminum rims, 1 3/8" rims. He told me that he threw out SIX bikes like that LAST NIGHT

    Oh well, he will have a few more in the next week he figures.

    I'll be putting up my design, I'd sure appreciate some critique of the design when I get it up.

    Strong and light is the key I guess, I tend to WAY over build stuff, a card carrying member of the "When in doubt, build it stout" crowd.

    It will be fairly thin square tube steel.

    Cheers!

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    Sounds good.

  9. #9
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    OK, my Sketch up skills are slowly improving, but this is a basic concept.......

    Trailers.........?-delivery_trailer.jpg

    I did NOT draw them wheels, they were drawn by someone named Ben Wood, I modified the wheels slightly, took off the brake disk, but that is similar to the wheels I'll have, well mine will be a bit thinner and a much more smooth tread on the tires.

    I've got a lot more head scratching and SU work to do, but it is coming along.

    The tubing is all 1" square in this model, except for the ones no the very bottom, I'm thinking I'll put light expanded mesh in the frame work, dunno yet really, still at the "Huh?" stage

  10. #10
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    Another view.........

    Trailers.........?-delivery_trailer_3.jpg

    More work to do on the trailer, I'm thinking of wooden slats on the bottom and on the sides of the cargo area, they would be durable (I'd use Ash for the wood) and light weight. I'll also be making some kind of brake, for each wheel hooked together, that when engaged would push against the tires, think old time wagon I would need something to stop the trailer from moving around while I'm loading and unloading it.

    Cheers!

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    Stu,

    Lookin' good, I'd be inclined to use a light mesh on the floor and sides, drains easily and is light and strong + doesn't eat into your cargo space. ie No loss of volume. For the draw bar I'd be inclined to make the two bottom rails long enough to come out and then sweep up with a curve that makes them meet in the centre line of the trailer and then follow a radius of the rear wheel of your bike as one tube, terminating at a hitch on the seat post. The top rails would then come out on the same plane, curve inwards to the centre line and intersect the tow bar (bottom bar) and simply terminate there. This would make the draw bar very strong.

    I'd like to be able to draw it for you but have no idea how to go about doing so !!!!

    Al

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by alanm
    Stu,

    Lookin' good, I'd be inclined to use a light mesh on the floor and sides, drains easily and is light and strong + doesn't eat into your cargo space. ie No loss of volume. For the draw bar I'd be inclined to make the two bottom rails long enough to come out and then sweep up with a curve that makes them meet in the centre line of the trailer and then follow a radius of the rear wheel of your bike as one tube, terminating at a hitch on the seat post. The top rails would then come out on the same plane, curve inwards to the centre line and intersect the tow bar (bottom bar) and simply terminate there. This would make the draw bar very strong.

    I'd like to be able to draw it for you but have no idea how to go about doing so !!!!

    Al
    Al, I do understand what you are talking about, but I do not own a pipe bender, which, by far, would be the easiest way to do that.

    I've been fooling with SU some more.......
    Trailers.........?-delivery_trailer_back.jpg

    Trailers.........?-delivery_trailer_bottom.jpg

    Trailers.........?-delivery_trailer_front.jpg

    Trailers.........?-delivery_trailer_left_side.jpg

    Trailers.........?-delivery_trailer_top.jpg

    Sorry for all the pics

    I'd like a more elegant curve or whatever, but I don't want to make it too complex either, as the more cuts I have to make and the more welding, which in turn, can give you more points of possible failure.

    Maybe I should invest in a pipe bender and then use some round pipe for this

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    Stu,

    If you build it the way you've drawn it now, you'll need a 45 (ish) degree vertical brace from the top horizontal bar of the tow bar to the top horizontal tube of the cargo frame. The tow bar as it stands now is inherently weak due to the fulcrum effect of the load and tow bar.

    I can give you a tip for bending pipe without a pipebender, find a nice flat surface like a beam, that is solidly held down. Wrap 3 or 4 turns of half inch rope loosely enough around it so you can slide your chosen diameter pipe under it. Pick the point where you want your bend to start and gently apply upwward pressure, don't over do it. Release the pressure and move the pipe along, repeating step 1. Simply keep doing this untill you have your desired curve. If you take it slowly and do it bit by bit you'll wind up with a nice smooth curve. Another way of bending pipe is to find an object that has the desired radius you require and then finding a way to secure one end of your pipe and then simply bend your pipe around the object. Because you require a gentle radius you can get away with it if you're careful in your approach. I've used both the mentioned methods successfully at work over the years.

    If you are successful in bending a piece of pipe you can then modify the draw bar section on your drawing to form an A frame, once braced, it would be more than adequate, strength wise, and would look quite professional. Who knows, you may get people placing orders........

    Al

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    Thanks for the info Al, I know a nice graceful curve would be MUCH better, I wonder how your bending technique would work with square tubing?

    I wish I knew a shop around here that would bend it for me, but most shops like that are not set up to take on walk in trade, and are usually quite closed to the idea, must be a Japan, or maybe better, a "Tokyo" thing

    Cheers!

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    I did a little research and I found >> THIS << page, loads of info on bending tubes

    I built the MDF jig, and even though I only had a fairly short piece of square tube, 2cm square, I was able to make a nice smooth bend!

    Trailers.........?-tube_bending_jig.jpg
    It was really simple, even with the short piece of tube, I was able to bend it using just muscle power, I did not have to use the larger piece of pipe that is laying on the bench.

    Trailers.........?-bent_tube_wheel.jpg
    Next to a wheel, you can get an idea of the size etc, this should work well.

    I'll be going to the DIY shop tomorrow to get some more steel tubes!

    Cheers!

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    Mate,

    That looks red hot, well done. It'll give your trailer a professional look. Now I think you can change to an A frame setup for your draw bar, it'll save weight and not sacrifice strength.

    Great site BTW, very practical.

    Al

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    Thanks, I was kind of surprised at how easy it was to do!

    Yep, a curved or bent A-frame I guess. I'll have to update my SU drawing.......... when I figure out curves that is

    Cheers!

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    I went out to the DIY home center place today. I got all the steel I need, I think, and I downsized the steel a bit more.

    I saw a number of hand carts that were rated anywhere from 100Kg to 500 KG and they were not nearly as stout as the trailer I'm planing on building, so I figured I can easily downsize the tubing from 2.5cm to 1.9 cm, it will still be very strong I think.

    Trailers.........?-small_tailer1.jpg Trailers.........?-small_trailer2.jpg
    Here is a little hand cart, it has 18" wheels and looks rather fragile, but it was rated to hold 100Kg (220 pounds) and the wheels were really wobbly, cost about $100. I looked at it as a possible unit to be modified, but then gave it up, too much work and I really did not think it was that well made.

    Trailers.........?-folding_aluminium_trailer.jpg
    Here is a better cart, and this one folds, the whole thing comes apart, all aluminum too, but nearly $400 and still not what I want. rated at 150 Kg, 20" wheels.

    Trailers.........?-big_tailer.jpg
    Then in the back I found this much larger cart in the back, about $550, and rated at 500 Kg built like a tank, and weighs as much too

    Trailers.........?-tailer_wheels.jpg
    They were selling wheels, but I have that covered, the 20" wheels are about $40 each with tubes and tires and the big trailer wheels are 25" and where $100 each and weighed about 25 pounds EACH!

    Trailers.........?-tube_cutter_1.jpg

    Trailers.........?-tube_cutter_2.jpg

    Trailers.........?-tube_cutter_3.jpg

    I made up a jig to cut the tubes at a 45 angle using my sawsall, I do have a large abrasive cutter, but it never leaves a nice 45 and is always smelly with sparks and smoke, this is much nicer!

    Trailers.........?-mini_dumper.jpg
    Finally, just for fun, I saw this mini dumper in the parking lot

    Cheers!

  19. #19
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    I did some more fooling around on SU.................

    Trailers.........?-19_mm_trailer_front.jpg

    Trailers.........?-19_mm_trailer_left.jpg

    Trailers.........?-19_mm_trailer_rear.jpg

    I hope that is starting to look better

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    Stu,

    Looks good. I reckon it'll be very robust for what you require. I think it'll also be very easy to manoeuvre by hand when required. Looking forward to it's maiden voyage. Overload it and push it around by hand and to see if it flexes at all, do some fast sideway manoeuvre's.

    Al

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    Thanks Al

    I need to put some sizes on there, I think that it looks a lot bigger than it really is, maybe I'll import a mountain bike and put it in place, like it was ready to pull the trailer just for a reference

    It is going to be 75.6 cm wide and 83.9 cm long (not counting the draw bar, which is mostly over the back wheel of the bike) or 29 3/4" wide by 33" long.

    I'll be sure to do some testing with extra weight in if for sure, I would not want something to go wrong while it's loaded down with beer!

  22. #22
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    More fooling with SU, adjusting wheel size, and adding a little more clearance on the bottom of the trailer. I has about 3" now, and that may not seem like a lot, but the streets around here are really smooth, and no big curbs to hop.

    Trailers.........?-19mm_trailer_with_bike_rt_side.jpg

    Trailers.........?-19mm_trailer_with_bike_front.jpg

    Trailers.........?-19mm_trailer_with_bike_back.jpg

    I can't really start the build until I get the wheels and I get the bike on the road, as I need so check some critical dimensions, but I like how this model is looking

    Cheers!

  23. #23
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    My other hobby is woodworking, and I just got pointed to this thread over at OWWM.....

    >> Here <<

    This guy is seriously hardcore, hauling that much old arn with a bike and trailer

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stu In Tokyo
    I'll also be making some kind of brake, for each wheel hooked together, that when engaged would push against the tires, think old time wagon I would need something to stop the trailer from moving around while I'm loading and unloading it.

    Cheers!
    If you don't need a brake while mounting/dismounting the bike with a loaded trailer but only while it is unattended, a simple chock will do. The wedges could be stored in a rack on the trailer with a tether to make sure they don't get left behind.

    The pivoting contact brake of a piece of bent flat steel like that used on wheelchairs is a rotating chock. If you need to activate and release the brake while on the bike, then consider these with a return spring, cable, and activating lever with a latch like a car's parking brake lever to pull, hold, and return these chocks to the off position.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    If you don't need a brake while mounting/dismounting the bike with a loaded trailer but only while it is unattended, a simple chock will do. The wedges could be stored in a rack on the trailer with a tether to make sure they don't get left behind.

    The pivoting contact brake of a piece of bent flat steel like that used on wheelchairs is a rotating chock. If you need to activate and release the brake while on the bike, then consider these with a return spring, cable, and activating lever with a latch like a car's parking brake lever to pull, hold, and return these chocks to the off position.

    Hi Brian, thanks for the comments!

    I want a brake as a few of the places I have to load/unload stuff are sloped sidewalks, with quite a few people walking by. I'm figuring on something like a wheelchair, or imagine the brake on an old wagon, just something to push against the tire should suffice.

    Cheers!

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    Stu, If you can drop the bed hight and get away with it it'll certainly increase your stability and payload capacity.

    Had a look at the link, wild dude.....only draw back with his trailer is the fact his hitch would have a very high weight on it which in turn causes a lot of stress. Your wheel position is much better as you can 'balance' your load a lot easier to keep hitch weight to a minimum. A bit of weight biased to the front is always best but you don't want too much.

    BTW, that mini dumper, take off the cab and the bloody thing would near be small enough to tow behind the bike I'd like to see a couple of Aussie bricklayers gettin' into that cab......

    Al

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by alanm
    Stu, If you can drop the bed hight and get away with it it'll certainly increase your stability and payload capacity.

    Had a look at the link, wild dude.....only draw back with his trailer is the fact his hitch would have a very high weight on it which in turn causes a lot of stress. Your wheel position is much better as you can 'balance' your load a lot easier to keep hitch weight to a minimum. A bit of weight biased to the front is always best but you don't want too much.

    BTW, that mini dumper, take off the cab and the bloody thing would near be small enough to tow behind the bike I'd like to see a couple of Aussie bricklayers gettin' into that cab......

    Al
    Yeah, I have a small van like that, and it is kind of like a clown car when I'm getting in and out of it

    My cargo space will be about 3 1/2" off the ground, I think that is fairly low, and it should be really stable.

    Thanks for the help!

  28. #28
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    Stu ,how will you keep the bike upright while you are loading and unloading?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwisimon
    Stu ,how will you keep the bike upright while you are loading and unloading?
    Just a simple side stand. The bike and the trailer are connected through a hitch that is much like a tie-rod end. The trailer will stand on it's own, of course, and with a simple friction brake will not move, the bike will lean on it's side stand.

    No problem..................... I think
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stu In Tokyo
    Just a simple side stand. The bike and the trailer are connected through a hitch that is much like a tie-rod end. The trailer will stand on it's own, of course, and with a simple friction brake will not move, the bike will lean on it's side stand.

    No problem..................... I think
    hope your right but a side stand on a hill on the wrong side is going to piss you off pretty quick. you'lll need to lock the wheels pretty tight and place things in there very gently to avoid up and down movement knocking it off the side stand. might be worth looking at http://www.biketrailershop.com/catal...tand-p-53.html

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    Wow, blast from the past, I used to have a kickstand like that on an old CCM bike I had as a kid

    I could do that, or adapt one of the typical stands that they use on the newspaper delivery bikes here.
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    The Xtracycle, Big Dummy, and the old delivery bikes (still made by Workman) have two legged stands. There has to be good reason for such consistency. A locking fork with a one-leg stand is another method to get a stable tripod.

    My brother's (then mine) old CCM had a pressed steel galvanized bipod stand (from Canadian Tire) with each leg geared together and a coil spring to keep them retracted. As they were used, the spring stretched and the legs would begin to have freeplay when retracted and a rattling noise like the fenders were falling off. Really crude and heavy (see 'clunky' in a picture dictionary and it's there) compared to that Swiss unit.

    Yes, (CCM reference made me loook, just noticed your by-line), the record golds were very nice way to break the dought, but the capper was the Hockey Gold on Canadian soil.

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    Well getting back to this build, I've almost got the bike together, just waiting on the headset to arrive, and I have gotten one free wheel from my buddy at the bike shop, and should get another in a week or so, but one is enough to start working on the trailer.

    Just to show you what kind of loads I plan to carry, here is my little 50cc three wheeled scooter that I usually do deliveries on....

    Trailers.........?-daily_load_1.jpg

    Trailers.........?-daily_load2.jpg

    Not a little amount, but not too much either.

    Cheers!
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    Belieive it or not, I found that stand for sale here.....

    http://www.unico-jp.com/w_stand.html

    I'm going to try to get one for sure.

    Cheers!
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    I got started on the actual build today.

    I don't do a lot of welding in the Dungeon, not the best place in the world to be welding, so before I do start any welding I take the air hose and blow out any dust, and then I vacuum the place like a clean freak on speed

    I really go to town to make sure there is nothing down there that will catch on fire easily.

    When I'm done welding for the day, I make sure I stay behind at least an hour just to make sure and I again do a good solid clean up. I do have a VERY good exhaust system, it will empty the entire volume of the room ten times in a hour, so I do have lots of fresh air.

    I got the first bit of frame built and I should get the wheel mounts on tonight as well.

    All said and done, this is not going to be that big of a job, should go fairly quickly.

    Trailers.........?-build2.jpg

    Trailers.........?-build1.jpg
    Lousy iPhone pics


    Cheers!
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    Stu,

    You're on your way mate. I'll look again in a few days, I'm off on Tues 0730 to do a 500 Km offroad ride. I'll be towing my modded BOB Yak.

    Good luck with the build.

    Al

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    Thanks Al!

    Sounds like a serious trip, how many days? I imagine you will be camping? Hope it is sunny everyday

    I got some more done.......

    Trailers.........?-build_2_wheels1.jpg

    Trailers.........?-build_2_wheels2.jpg
    With both wheels attached. Only one wheel is a keeper, the other is junk, but I took it just to have a second wheel for the build. I'm sure I'll get another decent wheel in a week or so.

    Trailers.........?-build_2_wheels_cargo_mock_1.jpg
    Here I mocked up the cargo area, just to see, I gave it about 3 1/2" of ground clearance, for around town only, I think this will be more than enough, and I'll build it so the trailer is level when attached to the bike, maybe just a bit biased towards the bike I guess.

    Trailers.........?-build_2_wheels_cargo_mock_2.jpg
    This is the angle the trailer would take when not attached to the bike, not a steep angle at all.

    I realize that this set up would not be good for off-road, but I have zero intentions of ever taking it off-road, heck off-road is a LONG ways from downtown Tokyo where I live

    Tomorrow, I hope to get the rest of the cargo area done, welded up, I'm just about out of wire for my MIG, and the wire I have is a bit on the thick side, 0.9mm so I have to run the MIG hot and slow, not the easiest way to weld. If I can I'll get some more wire but thinner stuff, to make the welding easier.

    I think I'll paint this thing red, just like my bike and so I can call it my "Little Red Trailer"

    Cheers!
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

  38. #38
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    Stu,

    Looks great. I'd be inclined to keep it level. You can add bias by shifting weight in the bed, and yep, for around town that should be plenty of clearance. Only thing to watch for is dropping over curbs, not sure if that's an issue for you.

    I'll be on the track for a month and camping for the last 15, the first 15 night are in purpose built trail huts.

    Until this morning the weather has been great, 25 C and blue sky.....now it's raining, bloody typical....

    Catcha,

    Al

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    Wow Al, that is quite the trip, good for you!

    I hope you do a little write up of your trip when you get back, safe travels!
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    I got the main part of the trailer welded up.....

    Trailers.........?-main_body_done1.jpg

    Trailers.........?-main_body_done2.jpg
    I think it looks good, the welding is not perfect, I'm using fairly thick wire at a slow speed on thin tubing, so it is a bit messy.... Thanks goodness for the angle grinder

    Once my headset arrives and I can put m bike together, I'll be able to figure out the exact height the tow arms need to be.

    On to the brakes....

    Trailers.........?-brake_idea1.jpg
    I think this is the area that I'll be putting the brakes, the front part of the wheels.

    I'm thinking something like you would see on an old wagon, it is not to stop the trailer while in motion, but to keep it still while loading and unloading.

    Trailers.........?-brake_idea2.jpg
    Something like this with a crescent shaped shoe actually contacting the tire might just be all I need. It would be nice to link them together, but maybe that is going way over kill

    Cheers!
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    A sector of bike rim would give you the cresent you need for a shoe. They would jam tighter as the wheel rolls, especially forward. Don't see a need for a liner as they will not be worn by stopping the cart while it is in motion. Only if wet tires needed a more agresive surface like a piece of knobby or studded bike tire. Linking would likley cost more time, money, weight, and complexity than benefit, but woud be cool. A single hydraulic or air Master and twin actuators? A cocked spring and cable actuated spring release?

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    A sector of bike rim would give you the cresent you need for a shoe. They would jam tighter as the wheel rolls, especially forward. Don't see a need for a liner as they will not be worn by stopping the cart while it is in motion. Only if wet tires needed a more agresive surface like a piece of knobby or studded bike tire. Linking would likley cost more time, money, weight, and complexity than benefit, but woud be cool. A single hydraulic or air Master and twin actuators? A cocked spring and cable actuated spring release?
    I really think just a simple hardwood shoe, maybe lined with leather or some old tire would do nicely............... not that I'm against the pneumatic actuated system... but the reasons that you mentioned, time, cost and weight will most likely see me go with something way simpler
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    What system are you using to secure the axles Stu? I like the hardwood blocks as well, two chocked on both sides of the tires. Simple effective and old school cool. Paint them yellow and you'll look very 安全.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwisimon
    What system are you using to secure the axles Stu? I like the hardwood blocks as well, two chocked on both sides of the tires. Simple effective and old school cool. Paint them yellow and you'll look very 安全.
    When did "Anzen" become cool

    What do you mean about the axles? I have two tabs welded to the underside of the trailer frame that I drilled holes in and then cut slots, much like the ends of a fork, the wheel axles go into the slot and the bolts are tightened.

    Should work fine............... I think...........
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

  45. #45
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    I was a safety officer in a factory here, anzen is very cool. Your tabs wil work great, I just hadn't seen any pics of them and wondered how you were going to attach the wheels. Another week and you should be rolling, looking forward to the rollout.

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    OK, Anzen is cool

    The main thing holding me up is the headset arriving from the US, I need to get the bike together so I can make sure the trailer will ride level etc when I make the draw bars.

    I too look forward to the roll out
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    I got my expanded mesh for the sides of the trailer....
    Trailers.........?-mesh_sides1.jpg

    Trailers.........?-mesh_sides2.jpg

    I think it looks not bad at all

    I also wanted to show how I put the tabs on for the axles.....

    Trailers.........?-axle_tabs_1.jpg

    Trailers.........?-axle_tabs_2.jpg

    Nothing complex, but it works fine!

    I also got some "U" bolts to make the hitch mount, that will attach to the seat post.......

    Trailers.........?-hitch_mount_1.jpg

    Trailers.........?-hitch_mount_2.jpg

    I'll most likely us a bit heavier gauge square tubing, as this will be a weak point, in fact, I might make the mounting plate a little bigger to give me more space to put down some mondo welds

    I'm still waiting on the headset for the bike to arrive, so I can put that together, then I can figure out the final height and length of the draw bars.

    Next up is some paint, and then the wooden floor.

    Cheers!
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

  48. #48
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    Looking good Stu! Whats the weight looking like?

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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwisimon
    Looking good Stu! Whats the weight looking like?
    Not sure, it is actually fairly light, the wheels are aluminum, and the tubes are all fairly light, I honestly don't know, certainly under 20Kg, I bet it is closer to 12 Kg or so, I can easily lift it by myself, no worries.

    I'll have to borrow the bathroom scale and find out
    To Canadians Hockey is not just a game, it's OUR Game.....!

    Go CANADA!

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    Did you consider camber and caster for the wheels? 3.5inches should be plenty of ground clearance unless you have steep hills to climb. Looks good, how much does the whole thing weight?

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