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  1. #1
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    Making My Surly BD Touring Friendly ???

    I've been wanting to get back to doing some short touring. Instead of building something else I want to use my BD. When I first got my BD I replaced the 2.0 Big Apples with 2.125s because I like the ride from my previous Xtracycle with them. I thought about putting the 2.0 tires back on for better touring and just drop the presure when using BD for stuff around town. I'd like to keep the BD where it will be touring friendly and cargo friendly as much as possible.
    The other main thing is handlebars. I'm using the Nitto torsion bar that came on the complete build. I like these bars, but the head winds are killing me. Would a H Bar let me get low enough to help with a head wind. I really wouldn't want to go to a full drop bar mainly because
    of carrying cargo the rest of the time. Would brake levers for drop bars work with mechanical disc brakes ?
    Any suggestion or ideas would be most appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Sounds like you need to be looking at Devo's latest incarnation of his BD with all the sweet custom frame bags he has on it.

    There are dropbar levers that work with BB7 Mountain cable disc brakes, like the Tektro RL520s.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  3. #3
    ong
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    You can get drop levers that are specifically designed for long-pull brakes (v-brakes or regular bb-5/bb-7). Regular short-pull levers won't work well with long-pull brakes.

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2231

    FWIW, my BD just feels like a massive ton of bricks compared to a touring bike. I've done some short overnight camping trips on it, and 30 miles feels like 60 miles on a different. I guess if you want to get more exercise on a shorter tour, that's the way to go, though!

    Edit -- Oops, didn't see that Jag410 had already answered that one!

  4. #4
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    You could have a wide flat bar for your hauling leverage and try some of these guys for getting low in the wind. Could be just the ticket. If i were to go on tour I would definitely go the longtail route. Who says you have to rush? I'll just ride as slow as I need to and get there when I get there.

    Drop Bar-Ends

  5. #5
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    I had also thought about using STI Brifters with the Problem Solver Travel Agents at this link. http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...t.aspx?sc=FRGL
    But the more reliable brifters are so much JACK $$$.
    Brad ,Those Drop Bar Ends are farout. Would be worth trying a pair.
    It's hard to decide. Don't won't to alter the BD too much.
    If I could run across a good used touring bike or frame I might go that route.
    Time I put on sti brifters , travel agents , drop bars and other misc I would
    have allot invested. I could use that on a touring bike. We'll see.
    Where is Devo ? Thought he might drop some knowledge on us. Maybe he's
    in the saddle.

  6. #6
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    After looking again at the Travel Agents I guess that wouldn't work with my disc brakes.

  7. #7
    Devo
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    you want Titec H-bars

    Yes... I was out of town...
    did some builds for www.Volagi.com
    and did the Solvang Double on the Hunter.
    Sea Otter Classic staff meeting this morning, etc...

    you want H-bars.

    can you post a pic of your BD... that would help a bunch.

    d-
    www.AsanaCycles.com
    "Bicycle Lifestyle, realized." D.G.

  8. #8
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    I looked into the Titec H-bars (which are just the Jones H-bars, made by Titec with permission of Jones). Of note, unless you switch shifters, they won't work...not enough room for the shifters, brakes and grips.

    The Jones Loop Bar duplicates the feeling of the H-bars, but the protrusions where the grips attach are longer than the H-bar, and permit use of the stock shifters/brake levers.

    Or perhaps you want to switch shifters and brake levers...but if you're just after that position, try the Jones Loop Bars.

  9. #9
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    I did a couple of tours on the h-bars, and ended up with mixed feelings about them.

    On the plus side, using them with dual control levers, you have great access to shifting and braking all the time--climbing, descending, or whenever. They're also great on out of the saddle climbs, with lots of leverage, and, again, easy shifting while standing.

    The downside I found is that they don't really offer the diversity of positions they'd seem to. Often on a long tour, I like a good stretched out position and a nice, upright position. The h-bar's forward hooks and crossbar/middle section both place my hands too close together for comfort, so it's is really only comfortable for me to hold the bar somewhere behind the crossbar. There's some fore/aft positioning flexibility there, but I find it isn't useful because of the bar's sweep. That is, moving my hands further back doesn't bring me more upright, because my hands are moving further apart as they move back (and vice versa).

    Something like an albatross bar would seem to allow more body positions, since they sweep more directly back toward the rider, so when you move your hands forward or back, your back goes down or up a bit more. Anyone compared an albatrossish bar with a jonesish bar for touring?

  10. #10
    Devo
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    I use SRAM triggers
    and have in the past used the twisty ones too
    all on H-bars... no problems.

    for me, that is... personally, I use a short stem on H-bars.
    on my BD I think I'm using a Salsa 90mm with 15deg rise.
    www.AsanaCycles.com
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  11. #11
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    Here's my Jones Loop bar, aluminum........A few different hand positions, plus I can put gps, lights on too. 50mm stem.


  12. #12
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    I have my BD setup pretty much as a tourer. I use it to haul light to mid weight loads, and don't feel bad with the 26x1.75 (42-559) tires. I have Origin8 moustache bars, and switched them out from Salsa Bell lap CX drop bars w/barcons.

    I like the moustache bars, and my guess is that the Hbars would be good for a similar reason. On my old bar I rode 90% of the time on the hoods. The moustache gives me multiple hand positions all at about the same level as the hoods on my old bars. when I'm facing a fierce headwind it's nice to grab the hoods, get low, and lean into the wind

    I have the Tektro 520 levers with a BB7 in the back and a Vbrake in the front. I was originally looking at "Travel Agents," but they are seriously expensive, and from everything I've read they pull enough cable, but make everything spongy. For only a few dollars more I got levers made for the brakes and I'm much happier for it.

    I have done long distance self contained touring in the past on an old Shogun touring bike, and later on a Bike Friday. I wouldn't hesitate to take my BD on a tour. Once it was built it made me think about touring again. Something I hadn't done in years. We'll see what the future holds.

    The pix show my studded tires which are now hanging quietly on the wall in the garage
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Making My Surly BD Touring Friendly ???-image36.jpg  

    Making My Surly BD Touring Friendly ???-image32.jpg  


  13. #13
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    My BD's touring mode and cargo mode are identical. I use Titec H-bars. If I was starting again I'd use Jeff Jones Loop H-Bars to provide more room for the Rohloff shifter.

    http://thelazyrando.wordpress.com/tag/big-dummy/



    http://www.flickr.com/photos/vikappr...th/2697141553/

    Build details below:

    http://www.bowcycle.com/bikes/blogs/...-dummy-review/
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  14. #14
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    I'll second the Loop bar.
    Last edited by suba; 05-16-2011 at 05:52 AM.

  15. #15
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    Hey how did I miss all the posts here ? Didn't get any emails on it. Oh well thanks guys for all the input. I just put my Jones Loop Bar on the other day and WoW are they great. The both hands in the center position gives me the tuck needed to deal with headwinds. After a few days I wonder how I did without them.
    Last edited by LongtailJunkie; 05-04-2011 at 09:10 PM.

  16. #16
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    Titec H-bar

    I've spent the last two years switching bars on my BD and finally settled on Titec H-bars with SRAM triggers. The Titec's work fine with SRAM triggers, while an original straight Jones H-bar wouldn't. Because of the rise/bend on the Titec's, somehow there ends up being more room "under" the bar where the controls are (I also didn't start the wrap for the mid-section directly off the grips, which gave more clearance).

    Prior to the Titec's, I'd tried original Jones Ti H-bars (I have two if anyone is in the market , one is basically NIB ), a Titec J-bar, On-One Mary's, and Nitto North Roads. The Mary's lasted the longest, but every time I got on my singlespeed with the Jones H-bars I was reminded how much I liked them (riding on the extensions like brake hoods), and how much I wished I could use them on the BD.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbrian
    I've spent the last two years switching bars on my BD and finally settled on Titec H-bars with SRAM triggers. The Titec's work fine with SRAM triggers, while an original straight Jones H-bar wouldn't. Because of the rise/bend on the Titec's, somehow there ends up being more room "under" the bar where the controls are (I also didn't start the wrap for the mid-section directly off the grips, which gave more clearance).

    Prior to the Titec's, I'd tried original Jones Ti H-bars (I have two if anyone is in the market , one is basically NIB ), a Titec J-bar, On-One Mary's, and Nitto North Roads. The Mary's lasted the longest, but every time I got on my singlespeed with the Jones H-bars I was reminded how much I liked them (riding on the extensions like brake hoods), and how much I wished I could use them on the BD.
    I might be interested in the Ti h-bars. Can you email me a pic at threeohm "at" gmail "dot" com.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb
    I might be interested in the Ti h-bars. Can you email me a pic at threeohm "at" gmail "dot" com.
    And if Vik doesn't snag them I'm interested.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bocbike
    And if Vik doesn't snag them I'm interested.
    I never heard back on them...go for it if you want them and get a shot...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  20. #20
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    albeant: You might be suffering from the wrong stem length/angle for your bike when you tried the h-bar. It has a different enough feel that you might not want the same stem you would choose for a drop bar.

    I have a jones loop bar (the aluminum one, for those of you who can't afford the Ti) and love it. There really is a lot more room on the jones bar than the titec which leaves more real estate left over after you add all your shifters/brakes/bells/computers.

    So +1 on the jones loop bar, particularly for a multipurpose bike like the dummy with on and off road use.

    - Ben

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenSwayne
    albeant: You might be suffering from the wrong stem length/angle for your bike when you tried the h-bar. It has a different enough feel that you might not want the same stem you would choose for a drop bar.
    The difference in hand position between a drop bar and a Titec H-bar will be massive - 10cm+. You won't want a different stem - you'll want a bike with a different top tube length if you swap from one to the other.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenSwayne
    albeant: You might be suffering from the wrong stem length/angle for your bike when you tried the h-bar. It has a different enough feel that you might not want the same stem you would choose for a drop bar.

    I have a jones loop bar (the aluminum one, for those of you who can't afford the Ti) and love it. There really is a lot more room on the jones bar than the titec which leaves more real estate left over after you add all your shifters/brakes/bells/computers.

    So +1 on the jones loop bar, particularly for a multipurpose bike like the dummy with on and off road use.

    - Ben
    Thanks. Prior to the h-bar, my tourer had a straight-ish mtb bar with bar ends, so I wasn't swapping over from a drop bar. For those who've gone from flat mtb bar to h-bar, have you found the need to change stem length?

    Still, though, I'm skeptical. I enjoyed the handling of the h-bar, but it didn't allow for varied body positions as much as I'd expected. Maybe I'll give it another shot at some point, perhaps with a shorter stem.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by albeant View Post
    For those who've gone from flat mtb bar to h-bar, have you found the need to change stem length?
    Yep. I went with a longer stem with the h bars on my fargo. Coming from a short stint with flat bars, the h bars were more comfortable, but seemed to need a bit more reach.
    i want to ride my bicycle! i want to ride my bike....

  24. #24
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    Thanks for the info. I'll play around with stem length a bit and see how it goes.

  25. #25
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    I know this is a old post but I just got my Titec H-Bar today and love them.

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