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  1. #1
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    Yakima front loader or forklift steelhead?

    I am getting a Yakima rack for my corolla coupe..

    I am unsure to get the steelhead to
    the load the whole bike like the frontloader.
    or
    get the kind that that holds the fork
    (but adding another fork to hold the front tire on the roof makes the price the same as the full one)

    What are the pros and cons?

    I don't really enjoy taking the bike wheel on and off for 2 bikes. But the parks seem to have all kinds of curvy roads so I want to think about which one is most stable when I drive to them. Would I hit some trees that are barely trimmed enough to clear a tour bus? My car is very low and small, though.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    the steelhead is a fork mount rack that has been discontinued. it has been replaced (finally) with the re-introduced viper.
    the frontloader is a good rack, especially for mounting to factory crossbars. the highroller is designed specifically for the yakima/thule bars and has a couple of features that allow it to stow flat quicker.
    i don't think you'd have a problem with either of the racks - fork mount vs upright racks. they are both really stable and solid. you might notice more bike wobble with the upright, but if used properly, your bike isn't going to fall off.
    fork mounts, like the copperhead would be cheaper though.........

  3. #3
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    Thanks for your information.
    I have been thinking of getting the highrollers.
    I am thinking of investing in mightymounts so I can transfer them to my other car with Volvo factory bars.
    Do you know if it one box of 4 will let me attach 2 highrollers?

    Or should I get frontloader model instead because it is supposed to be usable with Yakima bars and other factory bars.
    The mighty mounts are getting expensive if I need more than 1 pack


    From what I can tell the frontloader "clamps" on the factory bar using a tension from front to rear
    and the highroller is held in place without creating any tension.
    Because my "factory" bars on the Volvo is also an add on (is not permanently attached to the roof/chassis) I think the frontloader tension is not desirable (I am afraid 2 carriers tries to pull the bars together and cause them to shift) and the highroller with adapter might work better.
    Is this correct?
    Last edited by PoorCyclist; 09-04-2010 at 07:05 AM.

  4. #4
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    the highroller will require 3 mounts per bike rack, so it will take 2 sets of horizontal mighty mounts to work on your oem volvo bars.

    the frontloaders won't pull the bars towards each other, they'll just clamp down to them, so there's really no forces at work here that would potentially move the bars. if you are suspect of the bars, (and i don't see a reason why you would be), the bikes will be putting more force on the bars than the racks alone.

  5. #5
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    OK I see, so for my purpose of switching between cars
    should I get the frontloaders then..
    what are the real differences between the frontloader and highroller in terms of securing the bike?

  6. #6
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    the frontoaders install/remove really quickly too, especially if you are going to be going between 2 cards.
    in terms of bike security, both racks are the same. they both a have a small cable lock that wraps around a downtube in the frame and back to itself. it's a decent cable lock..not military grade if you know what i mean.
    http://www.cracksandracks.com/yakima...ack-p-656.html
    the frontloader has a 2nd lock that will lock the rack to the bars. it prevents the mounting hardware from being able to be removed when it's locked.

  7. #7
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    Thanks, can I use Thule bike holders on Yakima cross bars?
    If so, are they worth considering?

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