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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haymarket View Post
    I just ordered a Raxter stinger. After reading almost every post and review on here amd other sites on hitch racks it seemed like the best deal by far. I almost went with the 1up, but reviews are almost identical and the Raxter looks better, comes in black without an upcharge, and I found it on line for exactly half the price of the 1up. I will get it this week and post a review.
    1UP upcharge for black because they anodize, whereas the Raxter is just black paint.

    IMO, 1UP is still in another league ahead of Raxter for just a little over $100 more.

    1UP folds up when not in use for compactness, the Stinger is not foldable.

    With the 1UP, you can have either 1.25" or 2" with either 1+ more add-ons. The Stinger looks like you can only add-on more trays on the 2"; also with the Stinger if you want to add-on, it looks like your only option is a two plus extension making it for a total of three bikes.

    Although the racks looks similar in the way it functions, they both go about it quite differently.

    The 1UP, no matter how you use it, will only touch the bike at the tires..nothing else. The Raxter uses straps around the wheels to prevent the rack arms from moving; I hate the idea of strap friction messing up the finish of my matte carbon rims.
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  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by anthonylokrn View Post
    1UP upcharge for black because they anodize, whereas the Raxter is just black paint.

    IMO, 1UP is still in another league ahead of Raxter for just a little over $100 more.

    1UP folds up when not in use for compactness, the Stinger is not foldable.

    With the 1UP, you can have either 1.25" or 2" with either 1+ more add-ons. The Stinger looks like you can only add-on more trays on the 2"; also with the Stinger if you want to add-on, it looks like your only option is a two plus extension making it for a total of three bikes.

    Although the racks looks similar in the way it functions, they both go about it quite differently.

    The 1UP, no matter how you use it, will only touch the bike at the tires..nothing else. The Raxter uses straps around the wheels to prevent the rack arms from moving; I hate the idea of strap friction messing up the finish of my matte carbon rims.
    The 1up may be better, probably is. I just don't care about any of what you point out as differences. I have a 2" hitch, will never have a 1.25", so just want a rack the only works with 2". I like the idea of the 2" square tubing, not 1.25 with an adapter. I bought the 1 bike rack, and it doesn't stick out far, so folding is meaningless to me. You can turn the Raxter into a folder with an accessory if you add trays. I ride mountain bikes only and don't have any carbon matte rims, and wouldn't worry about fabric straps even if I did on rims on a mountain bike. If those straps cause damage to my rims I would be shocked, and I ahven't seen that in one single review. I just don't want anything touching the frame. I want black, and don't care about the process that makes it that way, so anodized or painted is meaningless to me. I had a black painted car, and the paint looked great. The 1up was $349 delivered in black, and I got the Raxter in black for $152 delivered, and like I said I think it looks better and the reviews and ratings are almost identical. Both better reviews than the Thule and Yakima, but the Raxter just seemed like such a better deal if they both do the job. For $152, I'm not out much if it doesn't work out.

  3. #203
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    One other thing, there is zero plastic in a 1up rack. Raxters arms are plastic. Raxter also doesn't have an anti-sway insert or locking pin standard.
    I don't think the raxter is bad by any means, my coworker liked his a lot. best of the budget racks imo, and better than a couple of the big names. But not in the same league as 1up/kuat as far as fit and finish.
    Budget: raxter
    Features: kuat
    Burly: 1up

  4. #204
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    I love my North Shore NSR-4.


  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    One other thing, there is zero plastic in a 1up rack. Raxters arms are plastic. Raxter also doesn't have an anti-sway insert or locking pin standard.
    I don't think the raxter is bad by any means, my coworker liked his a lot. best of the budget racks imo, and better than a couple of the big names. But not in the same league as 1up/kuat as far as fit and finish.
    Budget: raxter
    Features: kuat
    Burly: 1up
    +1 though I would add, the 1up is the most compact too.

    I ended up going with the Kuat NV (narrowly chose it over 1up... for extra features) over a year ago and have been quite happy with it. Had one wheel arm replaced under warranty (the ratchet mechanism stopped working) and got a replacement within days.

  6. #206
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    I have a Yakima Swingdaddy. It works out really well for me since most of the time we are using it we are going on vacation and taking four bikes. It is convenient to be able to access the rear of the vehicle. That being said it is definitely more or a rack for road bikes and hardtails. I have not put more than two full suspension bikes on at once as the adapters are just not meant for full suspension bikes.

  7. #207
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    A buddy from work bought a Kuat from one of those retail warehouse stores, where they resale stuff that was opened or previously broken or missing parts, etc. Anyways, the rack was in great shape but he had it on his jeep and he was off roading, nothing major just some back roads around the bike trail. His bikes actually fell off because of an issue with the rack. He contacted Kuat and they offered to replace the rack for free and any damage done to his bikes. There was no damage done to the bikes, they simply just fell over while he was going slow, and I wouldn't be surprised that the rack might have been damaged when he bought it (everything I have bought from the same store has been broke in some way), I just wanted to point out that he had a super awesome experience with their company. I recently went to an event that they came to and gave away a free rack. They seem to be a really great company with great employees and I believe their product is high quality. I think I have decided to purchase a Kuat as well.

  8. #208
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    How secure are the Thule T2's?

    Could the current owners of Thule 916xtr T2 please chime in? I'm thinking of upgrading from a Double track to a T2 and would like to know how secure the bikes are in the rack as far as theft is concerned(I live in the DC area)?
    Those who know can not explain, Those who don't can not understand

    Smith & Wesson, The original point and click user interface

  9. #209
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    I bought the 1up based on reviews here. Hated to spend that much on a single bike, bike rack, but I'm glad I did. Super easy to take on and off, and even easier to get the bike on and off.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRSguy View Post
    Could the current owners of Thule 916xtr T2 please chime in? I'm thinking of upgrading from a Double track to a T2 and would like to know how secure the bikes are in the rack as far as theft is concerned(I live in the DC area)?
    The T2 comes with a locking cable on each arm however, it's only good for keeping someone from walking off with your bike at a stop light. I've read that the locks can be defeated with a flat head screw driver or just unbolting your front wheel from the rack.

    There is no rack on the market that can stop a thief if given enough time and effort...

  11. #211
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    Customer service at 1UP is amazing, the rack is built like a tank and best of all, no plastic. I spent a lot of time researching bike racks and glad I went with 1UP.

  12. #212
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    I have a specialized epic comp 29er. Been looking for a food 1.25 hitch rack. Never heard of 1up. Will have to check out

    Any others out there that have gotten good reviews? A buddy of mine bought a kuat Sherpa? That he is very happy with

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by sand wedge View Post
    There is no rack on the market that can stop a thief if given enough effort...
    Fixed
    The time is usually a matter of seconds.

    The T2 can be fairly securely attached to the vehicle through the use of large cables, chains, etc. I make my setup less attractive by running a big chain lock through the bike and rack (I have the locking cores as well).

    The issue is that a thief can come up to your car with a roof rack, hitch rack, whatever, and grab the seat, tires, etc, and just PULL sideways. Something's going to give. On a roof rack that attaches by the front wheel dropouts, it's probably the dropouts that will give, but then the thief has most of a bike that he can sell, if it's a bigger 15 or 20mm hub, then I'd imagine the rack would fail, as it would in most other cases (no fork-mounted attachment). It will severely damage and deform the rack, possibly your car as well, but the thief doesn't care about that. If you have access to a sharp hacksaw I'm sure you could cut through a critical attachment point of a rack in less than a minute, and with a powered cutter, seconds.

    The fallacy that is usually propagated is that the thief has to defeat the locks or something, but that's our perception because that's what we "go through" to get to our bike when we use them, but the thief will take the quickest way to get your bike or most of your bike, and he'll destroy whatever to do this. The locks may slow this down or make them use a different avenue, but relying on them will make one a victim of bike theft.

    The bottom line is NEVER EVER leave a bike on your car, locked or not. The only exceptions are situations where it's out of site for a few minutes, when you can see it visibly from where you are at, where there's a controlled access point (and you are monitoring that point yourself), and similar situations. I don't care how many cameras there are or how good someone tells you a certain place is, never leave your bike on the rack overnight. You just don't do this. Locking it in the car with something to disguise that it's a bike is a better idea, even then I'd be cautious.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRSguy View Post
    Could the current owners of Thule 916xtr T2 please chime in? I'm thinking of upgrading from a Double track to a T2 and would like to know how secure the bikes are in the rack as far as theft is concerned(I live in the DC area)?
    How secure is a T2 against theft? Not even a little. You could remove a bike with no damage to the rack or bike by letting air out of the tire. Or removing the wheel (and the thief would walk away with the whole bike). The lock cores do basically nothing to make the bike more secure.

    It's true that no rack is will stop a thief with a little time to work, but a T2 won't stop one with 2-3 seconds to work on it.

    You'd need to run a cable through the bike to the hitch or something.

  15. #215
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    I have a heavy duty Ulock (Brooklyn?) and a very think 8 foot cable that is covered with some sort of metal coating. The cable cost a bunch, but when I have to leave the bike on my truck I lock it to the tow hitch. To steal the bike they would have to use spend time with some high powered tools, and if someone wants it that bad they can have it. It only stays locked on while I run into a store for a few minutes.
    Epic Flash Boris F65X + road bikes

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joules View Post
    How secure is a T2 against theft? Not even a little. You could remove a bike with no damage to the rack or bike by letting air out of the tire. Or removing the wheel (and the thief would walk away with the whole bike). The lock cores do basically nothing to make the bike more secure.

    It's true that no rack is will stop a thief with a little time to work, but a T2 won't stop one with 2-3 seconds to work on it.

    You'd need to run a cable through the bike to the hitch or something.
    The newer T2 has an internal cable lock built into the arms. This should slow the thief down to 4-5 seconds .

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by sand wedge View Post
    The newer T2 has an internal cable lock built into the arms. This should slow the thief down to 4-5 seconds .
    Except it uses the same lock cores that can be broken with a flathead.
    WHY ARE YOU YELLING??!1

  18. #218
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    Thule even states that the locks are for more safety precaution to keep bikes from falling off. It has nothing to do with theft.

  19. #219
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    You should never buy a rack based on 'security features'. You will be disappointed when your bike is stolen.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by bctrav View Post
    You should never buy a rack based on 'security features'. You will be disappointed when your bike is stolen.
    Wise words!

  21. #221
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    You get what you pay for. Go 1up all the way. Remember this is the device that determines whether your precious babies make it from point a to point b safety on your vehicle. Now would you risk total annihilation just knowing you saved a few bucks. To me $300-$500 for a bike rack is a small price compared to a $3k-$10k bike

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Fixed
    The time is usually a matter of seconds.

    The T2 can be fairly securely attached to the vehicle through the use of large cables, chains, etc. I make my setup less attractive by running a big chain lock through the bike and rack (I have the locking cores as well).

    The issue is that a thief can come up to your car with a roof rack, hitch rack, whatever, and grab the seat, tires, etc, and just PULL sideways. Something's going to give. On a roof rack that attaches by the front wheel dropouts, it's probably the dropouts that will give, but then the thief has most of a bike that he can sell, if it's a bigger 15 or 20mm hub, then I'd imagine the rack would fail, as it would in most other cases (no fork-mounted attachment). It will severely damage and deform the rack, possibly your car as well, but the thief doesn't care about that. If you have access to a sharp hacksaw I'm sure you could cut through a critical attachment point of a rack in less than a minute, and with a powered cutter, seconds.

    The fallacy that is usually propagated is that the thief has to defeat the locks or something, but that's our perception because that's what we "go through" to get to our bike when we use them, but the thief will take the quickest way to get your bike or most of your bike, and he'll destroy whatever to do this. The locks may slow this down or make them use a different avenue, but relying on them will make one a victim of bike theft.

    The bottom line is NEVER EVER leave a bike on your car, locked or not. The only exceptions are situations where it's out of site for a few minutes, when you can see it visibly from where you are at, where there's a controlled access point (and you are monitoring that point yourself), and similar situations. I don't care how many cameras there are or how good someone tells you a certain place is, never leave your bike on the rack overnight. You just don't do this. Locking it in the car with something to disguise that it's a bike is a better idea, even then I'd be cautious.
    I understand the fact that no bike rack is "theft proof" but I also don't want a rack that is basically a sign advertising "free bikes-no hassle or effort required".... I travel often with my bikes on the back of my car,trucks or motorhome for several days and often weeks at a time and occasionally have to leave the vehicle and bikes unattended. I have never had a bike stolen off of my current or previous rack systems and I don't want to switch to a rack that makes it too easy for my bikes to disappear, on that same token I have chronic health issues that on occasion can make simple things like throwing a bike onto a rack more complicated than it should be.Currently I am using a sportrack 4ez(mostly on the RV for family outings) and my Thule double track which I have never had a single issue with prior to getting rear ended but can sometimes be a pain in the butt to lock because the combination of bikes I've been transporting lately places the rear shock & linkages directly in front of the locking mechanisms and it can be difficult to get a key in there which makes the front wheel mount style racks more appealing to me.

    The other reason for possibly upgrading to the T2 is the ability to add a 2 bike extension to it which would allow me to sell off the sportrack and have 1 rack to suit my needs instead of 2

    You get what you pay for. Go 1up all the way. Remember this is the device that determines whether your precious babies make it from point a to point b safety on your vehicle. Now would you risk total annihilation just knowing you saved a few bucks. To me $300-$500 for a bike rack is a small price compared to a $3k-$10k bike
    While I would love to spend the extra money for for the 1UP or Kuat NV systems I'm just not convinced I'm getting $200 more security with these racks over thule or other systems especially when I've never had a Thule rack fail on me.

    One more concern I have is with the platform height of the T2,when I have my tailgate open(2010 F150) with the rack lowered I get about 3/4" to 1" of space between the top to the wheel trays and the tailgate ,will the T2 have the same clearance?

    Thanks for all the responses I really appreciate all of your input
    Those who know can not explain, Those who don't can not understand

    Smith & Wesson, The original point and click user interface

  23. #223
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    I have a 1up USA and my son does also. Zero complaints, zero issues and I suspect it will last forever. No plastic to break, not steel to rust. What more (less actually) could you ask for?
    2013 Specialized Carbon Camber Pro 29er (Warranty frame and other stuff)
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp 29er

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRSguy View Post
    I understand the fact that no bike rack is "theft proof" but I also don't want a rack that is basically a sign advertising "free bikes-no hassle or effort required".... I travel often with my bikes on the back of my car,trucks or motorhome for several days and often weeks at a time and occasionally have to leave the vehicle and bikes unattended. I have never had a bike stolen off of my current or previous rack systems and I don't want to switch to a rack that makes it too easy for my bikes to disappear, on that same token I have chronic health issues that on occasion can make simple things like throwing a bike onto a rack more complicated than it should be.Currently I am using a sportrack 4ez(mostly on the RV for family outings) and my Thule double track which I have never had a single issue with prior to getting rear ended but can sometimes be a pain in the butt to lock because the combination of bikes I've been transporting lately places the rear shock & linkages directly in front of the locking mechanisms and it can be difficult to get a key in there which makes the front wheel mount style racks more appealing to me.

    The other reason for possibly upgrading to the T2 is the ability to add a 2 bike extension to it which would allow me to sell off the sportrack and have 1 rack to suit my needs instead of 2



    While I would love to spend the extra money for for the 1UP or Kuat NV systems I'm just not convinced I'm getting $200 more security with these racks over thule or other systems especially when I've never had a Thule rack fail on me.

    One more concern I have is with the platform height of the T2,when I have my tailgate open(2010 F150) with the rack lowered I get about 3/4" to 1" of space between the top to the wheel trays and the tailgate ,will the T2 have the same clearance?

    Thanks for all the responses I really appreciate all of your input
    The 1 up has the best ground clearence out of all racks

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by vapezilla View Post
    The 1 up has the best ground clearence out of all racks
    I apologize if I wasnt clear,I wasnt talking about ground clearance I was talking about the when the rack is in the down position not hitting my tailgate when i lower it

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    Those who know can not explain, Those who don't can not understand

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