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  1. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by vapezilla View Post
    1 more thing is no rack manufacturer protects or warranties your bike from theft. 1uo is the only one that will replace your rack if stolen. Kuat and Thule locks are just detergents and are more designed when the rack fails you won't loose your bike on the ground. Call Thule and kuat and ask them. It's just a secondary measure and a theft deterent
    Thanks for the details. I run the 4 bike Kuat and love everything but the weight of it. 82 lbs is a hassle to carry back and forth to the car. The modular/sectional aspect of the 1up and the fact the plate is visible to the police are nice features.

  2. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbinworks View Post
    So will they replace my bike as well? It would just be nice to have a LOCK @ the hitch as well..I am not putting the rack down in any way..
    Quote Originally Posted by Corbinworks View Post
    Yeah because you cant buy that tool anywhere..What was I thinking :P
    So name a hitch rack that is 100% safe from theft... Yeah, I thought so...
    Yeti SB-66 Carbon

  3. #353
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    best hitch rack?

    Love my 1Up, but a $500 bike rack should include a deterrent lock.

    That is all.

  4. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by 41ants View Post
    Wow that 1 up is HEAVY. Seriously 48lbs is ridiculous.
    Well, sorta. It's 27 pounds for the single tray, and honestly it doesn't feel like it. It feels small and tight when folded up. It easily goes in 1/3 of the footprint of my tiny Audi A4 Avant trunk (the 1st gen A4... the B5). I just keep it back there and largely forget about it until I need it.

    If you get the second or third tray, you can leave them at home and quickly bolt it on when needed.

    That said, the 1Up with two trays is still lighter than a 2 tray Thule T2 at 53 pounds, and it won't rust out like a T2... and it folds up small enough to fit in a trunk, unlike the T2. I had a T2 and kinda hated it. I preferred my Performance Bike XPort Flatbed rack to the T2, but I sold it to get the T2.

  5. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim_bo View Post
    I think that my hitch rack is the best. It has the most carrying capacity, it is the easiest to load and unload, it is the easiest to hook to your car, it is the most stable and best of all... I can attach it to my motorcycle's hitch!!

    Easy bike rack!!
    Ha!

  6. #356
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    best hitch rack?

    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Well, sorta. It's 27 pounds for the single tray, and honestly it doesn't feel like it. It feels small and tight when folded up. It easily goes in 1/3 of the footprint of my tiny Audi A4 Avant trunk (the 1st gen A4... the B5). I just keep it back there and largely forget about it until I need it.

    If you get the second or third tray, you can leave them at home and quickly bolt it on when needed.

    That said, the 1Up with two trays is still lighter than a 2 tray Thule T2 at 53 pounds, and it won't rust out like a T2... and it folds up small enough to fit in a trunk, unlike the T2. I had a T2 and kinda hated it. I preferred my Performance Bike XPort Flatbed rack to the T2, but I sold it to get the T2.
    Yep that's why I love it. I don't think there is a lighter rack that performs as good as the 1 up. I love how I can just store the peices nice and neatly in my tiny car or my tiny apartment although it sucks if you stub your toe if its on the ground. One thing I never see people rave about on the one up is unlike the kuat or Thule it never creates slop or that annoying rattle that develos over time. The 1 up just rocks

  7. #357
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    great posts lads,
    just bought a 2012 outback with the somewhat compromised factory rack. Currently have rusty Thule square bars, and just returned 2x 4 yr old thule fork mount echelons due to a broken tension knobs. So I've a chance to rethink my rack options. I'm undecided whether to go with a roof mount trays (have always used these) or a hitch based rack (whihc are now way better than 5 yrs ago). Looks like 1up is a winner according to these 15 pages, (and the other 70 on another post).

    Just need to decide now about the choice of hitch vs roof,
    and if a hitch its seems to be either the 1up or a kuat NV in second place

    Also just wanted to dig back to those who say 1up is very expensive. If I've done my research right;

    1up 2 bike hitch $529
    2in trailer hitch from etrailer $185
    total $715

    Thule feet (450/ 480) $195
    Thule load bars $99 or $170 for aero blades
    Thule sidearm $199 x2
    total = $700 / $770, and the 1up roof tray is same price as Thule at $189

    so 1up is the same price, or even cheaper, depending on the choice of bars

  8. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by capall View Post
    great posts lads,
    just bought a 2012 outback with the somewhat compromised factory rack. Currently have rusty Thule square bars, and just returned 2x 4 yr old thule fork mount echelons due to a broken tension knobs. So I've a chance to rethink my rack options. I'm undecided whether to go with a roof mount trays (have always used these) or a hitch based rack (whihc are now way better than 5 yrs ago). Looks like 1up is a winner according to these 15 pages, (and the other 70 on another post).

    Just need to decide now about the choice of hitch vs roof,
    and if a hitch its seems to be either the 1up or a kuat NV in second place

    Also just wanted to dig back to those who say 1up is very expensive. If I've done my research right;

    1up 2 bike hitch $529
    2in trailer hitch from etrailer $185
    total $715

    Thule feet (450/ 480) $195
    Thule load bars $99 or $170 for aero blades
    Thule sidearm $199 x2
    total = $700 / $770, and the 1up roof tray is same price as Thule at $189

    so 1up is the same price, or even cheaper, depending on the choice of bars
    Hi there. These are not on your list, but I want to offer the suggestion:

    Inno IN-AR Side Rails Roof Rack System (Black) | Value-Priced Inno Car Rack for Factory SideRails

    2014 Inno INA388 Tire Hold Bike Rack - Roof Mount Bicycle Carrier, Fits Factory Racks, Inno, Yakima, Whispbar, Thule Cross Bars etc.

    I do not have the Inno roof rack system, but plan on buying it soon. I have a 2013 Impreza and currently use the factory cross-bars, but want to switch to this system for easier/better mounting options than the curved factory crossbars offer.

    I do own the Inno Tire Hold bike rack and have been very pleased with it. I own two and they have gotten weekly use about a year with no issues. I chose this over a fork mount option for convenience. The only drawback I have found is that it does make your bike a little taller on the roof. I've only (almost) ran into a clearance problem once in the last year. I guess with a roof rack system you have to know your clearance, no matter what! The racks also pretty much stay on my car, but are super easy to adjust and remove. The hot Florida sun has not phased them at all. I've also done a few long trips, 6 to 11 hour drives, with no issues.

    I'm in a spot where I have to be budget conscious and these fit perfectly into my price range. ORS also did what I thought was a rediculous price match for me, so I was very happy with the service from them, as well.

    I don't know about your Outback, but I chose to go with a roof mount option because I like to also secure a hitchrack with additional bungees and my Impreza did not really offer a good means for that. My previous ride was a Jeep Wrangler and I did use a hitch rack for it and bungee cords through the spare tire...

    Just wanted to add another alternative for thought.

    Good luck!

    J.

  9. #359
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    best hitch rack?

    Quote Originally Posted by capall View Post
    great posts lads,
    just bought a 2012 outback with the somewhat compromised factory rack. Currently have rusty Thule square bars, and just returned 2x 4 yr old thule fork mount echelons due to a broken tension knobs. So I've a chance to rethink my rack options. I'm undecided whether to go with a roof mount trays (have always used these) or a hitch based rack (whihc are now way better than 5 yrs ago). Looks like 1up is a winner according to these 15 pages, (and the other 70 on another post).

    Just need to decide now about the choice of hitch vs roof,
    and if a hitch its seems to be either the 1up or a kuat NV in second place

    Also just wanted to dig back to those who say 1up is very expensive. If I've done my research right;

    1up 2 bike hitch $529
    2in trailer hitch from etrailer $185
    total $715

    Thule feet (450/ 480) $195
    Thule load bars $99 or $170 for aero blades
    Thule sidearm $199 x2
    total = $700 / $770, and the 1up roof tray is same price as Thule at $189

    so 1up is the same price, or even cheaper, depending on the choice of bars
    I have a roof rack and hitch. I prefer a hitch for bikes. Especially mtn bikes which are heavier and tough to hoist on the roof of a full sized SUV. I have a kuat NV. No complaints. The roof rack is used for skis, cargo box etc so still useful. If you only want to carry bikes get a hitch.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeljack View Post

    I'm in a spot where I have to be budget conscious
    So you can afford spending more on gas? In about 2-3 years the gas savings of a hitch rack are roughly the same as the cost of a roof rack, so it's like you bought two racks by then, and of course you continue to spend more...
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  11. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    So you can afford spending more on gas? In about 2-3 years the gas savings of a hitch rack are roughly the same as the cost of a roof rack, so it's like you bought two racks by then, and of course you continue to spend more...
    Hello. Actually, I was referring to buying a budget roof rack over a higher priced option from Thule or Yakima.

    My choice to go with a roof rack in this instance was purely based on the fact that I was not 100% comfortable with the hitch options (and more importantly the lack of secondary securing methods) for my vehicle, a hatchback Subaru.

    I already had a hitch rack that I was more than happy with, but I chose to invest in a roof rack system because I felt it was the best choice for my particular car. I also looked at trunk/hatch mount systems but was underwhelmed by the options that I saw...

    Your experience may vary...

    J-
    Last edited by wheeljack; 05-13-2014 at 11:40 AM.

  12. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeljack View Post
    Hello. Actually, I was referring to buying a budget roof rack over a higher priced option from Thule or Yakima.

    My choice to go with a roof rack in this instance was purely based on the fact that I was not 100% comfortable with the hitch options (and more importantly the lack of secondary securing methods) for my vehicle, a hatchback Subaru.
    You'll still end up spending more, but it's your money to burn (literally). My hatchback subaru did just fine with a towbar.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  13. #363
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    I've narrowed my search between the Yakima Hold Up and the Thule T2. I'll be getting the 2 inch. Does anyone have trouble with either rack hitting against the vehicle when not loaded with a bike? Or does anyone with either of these racks have trouble with the bike hitting your vehicle when loaded?

  14. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeljack View Post
    Hello. Actually, I was referring to buying a budget roof rack over a higher priced option from Thule or Yakima.

    My choice to go with a roof rack in this instance was purely based on the fact that I was not 100% comfortable with the hitch options (and more importantly the lack of secondary securing methods) for my vehicle, a hatchback Subaru.

    I already had a hitch rack that I was more than happy with, but I chose to invest in a roof rack system because I felt it was the best choice for my particular car. I also looked at trunk/hatch mount systems but was underwhelmed by the options that I saw...

    Your experience may vary...

    J-
    I have the XV Hatch and a Kuat 4 bike hitch rack and it works great

  15. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    So you can afford spending more on gas? In about 2-3 years the gas savings of a hitch rack are roughly the same as the cost of a roof rack, so it's like you bought two racks by then, and of course you continue to spend more...
    Calculations please.

    I thought this was an interesting comment and I can't get it to come out right. I have Yakima Whispbars and Thule Echelons on top of my car for 6 months of the year. I keep really complete fuel records on my car. I can discern no difference in gas mileage with or without the racks on my car. I (probably like most) use my bike racks with bikes on them, a small fraction of the time to the point where it would also be negligible. Incidentally, I observed the same with standard Thule bars as well (the aero bars are just quieter).

    So best I can figure out, if I drove 15,000 per year with the bikes on top of the car and presuming that would drop my gas mileage 2mpg but from my standard average of 25mpg to 23mpg that would save about 52 gallons of gas per year or $182 at $3.50/gal. But that would be pretty much 100% of the driving for an entire year for most people which is not at all realistic. You'd have to do that for 4 years to make your statement work. In reality, driving 2000 miles per year with bikes on top would be a lot. If so, that would make the payback of increased gas mileage be something like 28 years - or not really a factor since the rack won't likely last that long anyhow.

    BTW, I base the 2mpg (25 to 23mpg) number on having 4 bikes on top of the car for a 2500 trip and that's what it cost us in mileage change.

    J.

  16. #366
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    I had this system. I also have a Yakima and Thule system that are similar on three cars. The Inno system lasted half the time that the other two did. We have them on the car year round and they are used to hold both bike racks and cargo (ski) boxes. We're up here in Minnesota so we have to deal with the road salt thing in the winter which can be tough on the racks. The Yak and Thule both lasted about the same more than 6 years before needing some work but still functional. The Inno barely made it through 2 and would not have lasted 3.

    I do like their integrated tool piece for putting them on and they are nice and low profile. But their powder coating and corrosion protection is really not very good. I'd have to recommend these only for relatively light duty and probably not for winter driving at all or corrosive applications (i.e. near the ocean or winter driving).

    J.

  17. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    I have Yakima Whispbars and Thule Echelons on top of my car for 6 months of the year. I keep really complete fuel records on my car. I can discern no difference in gas mileage with or without the racks on my car.
    J.
    Well, that's pretty amazing given other's experience and aerodynamics. I'll get around to some calcs later tonight.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  18. #368
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    Re: best hitch rack?

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Calculations please.

    I can discern no difference in gas mileage with or without the racks on my car.
    I'm curious if you have mileage numbers to compare within the same season. The reason I note this is that with both Subarus that I have owned, there is/was a significant hit in fuel mileage in the cold. Thus, if you have the racks on only during warm months, you wouldn't see a large (if any) difference in fuel mileage because any savings you gained by removing the racks would be eaten up by the cold.

    Fwiw, I see a decrease of about 2-3 mpg (depending on speed) with roof racks on compared to the same seasons mileage, regardless of if there are bikes on the rack. This (and the obnoxious noise) is motivation for me to only install my roof rack as needed; it takes me about 10 minutes to install bars and tray, though I have side rails, so installation is faster than racks for roofs without rails.

    Sent from a one-finger keyboard...pardon my autocorrect

  19. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    I had this system. I also have a Yakima and Thule system that are similar on three cars. The Inno system lasted half the time that the other two did. We have them on the car year round and they are used to hold both bike racks and cargo (ski) boxes. We're up here in Minnesota so we have to deal with the road salt thing in the winter which can be tough on the racks. The Yak and Thule both lasted about the same more than 6 years before needing some work but still functional. The Inno barely made it through 2 and would not have lasted 3.

    I do like their integrated tool piece for putting them on and they are nice and low profile. But their powder coating and corrosion protection is really not very good. I'd have to recommend these only for relatively light duty and probably not for winter driving at all or corrosive applications (i.e. near the ocean or winter driving).

    J.
    Hey, I'm glad you posted this. I've had such a good experience with my INNO bike rack and read many positive reviews on thier products. It's good to see an alternate opinion. I live two blocks from the Intracoastal and about 1 mile from the beach. Plenty of salt air around me and no problems, so far. I think I will still give the roof rack system a go. I'm curious what my 1 year after thoughts will be on the system. Thanks for the input.

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Calculations please.

    I thought this was an interesting comment and I can't get it to come out right. I have Yakima Whispbars and Thule Echelons on top of my car for 6 months of the year. I keep really complete fuel records on my car. I can discern no difference in gas mileage with or without the racks on my car. I (probably like most) use my bike racks with bikes on them, a small fraction of the time to the point where it would also be negligible. Incidentally, I observed the same with standard Thule bars as well (the aero bars are just quieter).

    So best I can figure out, if I drove 15,000 per year with the bikes on top of the car and presuming that would drop my gas mileage 2mpg but from my standard average of 25mpg to 23mpg that would save about 52 gallons of gas per year or $182 at $3.50/gal. But that would be pretty much 100% of the driving for an entire year for most people which is not at all realistic. You'd have to do that for 4 years to make your statement work. In reality, driving 2000 miles per year with bikes on top would be a lot. If so, that would make the payback of increased gas mileage be something like 28 years - or not really a factor since the rack won't likely last that long anyhow.

    BTW, I base the 2mpg (25 to 23mpg) number on having 4 bikes on top of the car for a 2500 trip and that's what it cost us in mileage change.

    J.
    Hi there. Yeah, I got too much of a negative vibe in that interaction so I said my piece and decided to be done with it...

    Most of my driving with the roof rack on is at speeds of 35-60mph and I cannot tell a difference in fuel economy at those speeds. My car averages about 32mpg, no matter what.

    The only times I see a fuel economy hit with my bike racks is traveling at 65-70+mph which I rarely do with my bikes on the car. If my week has a lot of interstate hwy miles planned into it, then I remove the racks. It takes maybe 10 mins to get them off and store them away. The few longer interstate hwy trips that I have done with my bike loaded up top still average about 30mpg when everything is said and done.

    I reset my mileage data everytime I get a new tank of gas. My goal is to always get at or near an average of 32mpg. My "B" tripometer was set when I bought my car and has not been reset. That shows a running average of 31.5mpg after 26k miles in 14 months. Subara states the car should get an average of 30mpg combined driving.

    No matter what, it's twice the mileage that I got with my big-wheeled Wrangler...

    Thanks for the input guys-

    J.

  20. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Calculations please.


    BTW, I base the 2mpg (25 to 23mpg) number on having 4 bikes on top of the car for a 2500 trip and that's what it cost us in mileage change.

    J.
    Here, check out this thread: roof racks =crappy gas mileage? What you are reporting is close to what most report that having just the rack on the car get, with bikes it's closer to 5mpg or so, especially with 4, probably less.

    I think you ARE getting the calcs to come out close to right, I had a long post all ready when I realized you were doing the math. All you gotta do is insert the realistic mileage figures, split of highway time, total miles, and you'll see that in a few years (I've had my T2 rack since something like 2005 or 2006 at least now) you'll make out pretty nicely. Now, if you are just driving in the city at speeds less than 45mph (but in most places where the "limit" is 45 most people cruise at 50, getting into the significant drag range), there might not be much different, but most likely you can just ride to the trailhead if it's that close. If you want I can still do the calcs, but if you're driving 15K/yr, especially getting out to some riding destinations, driving faster than 60mph, transporting bikes, etc, you can do it just as well. I'd say $3.50 is a little optimistic to plan for fuel cost for the next 5 years
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  21. #371
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    No, that's where you're wrong and the numbers I was questioning. 5mpg saved is meaningless unless you tell me what the average mileage of the car is.

    The mpg number is the wrong way to figure this out because a given aerodynamic drag at a given wind speed will take a known amount of energy to push through the air. A gallon of gas has a fixed amount of energy in it. Therefore, the mpg gained or lost will be different depending on the average fuel usage of the car. So for a 25mpg car that that translates into 2mpg deficit would show up as 1mpg hit on a 12.5mpg car or a 4mpg hit on a 50mpg car.

    My data from over 213K miles in the same car, show that a rack with low profile fork mounts (pretty much all of them) is a negligible hit in gas mileage. I cannot notice it when I look at my data. When I put four bikes on my car, the hit was 3-4mpg (depending on wind) for a car that gets 25mpg. So that would translate into 6-8 for a 50mpg car or 1.5-2mpg on a 12.5mpg car. Either way, it's not a very big hit and it would take 15,000 miles of driving per year with bikes on top for four years, to pay for a hitch rack. So what I've shown is that the gas mileage is not going to pay for the rack. My guess is that most people probably don't even put 1000 miles on their car each year hauling bikes. So this won't work out (unfortunately). Get the rack because of it's utility.

    j.

  22. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Either way, it's not a very big hit and it would take 15,000 miles of driving per year with bikes on top for four years, to pay for a hitch rack. So what I've shown is that the gas mileage is not going to pay for the rack. My guess is that most people probably don't even put 1000 miles on their car each year hauling bikes. So this won't work out (unfortunately).

    j.
    So all the people with 28-30mpg cars that said their mileage dropped 2-3 just with the addition of the rack are lying and your car takes no hit with the rack somehow?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  23. #373
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    Jayem.
    I don't think that's what me meant. I think you misunderstand the meaning of his message.

  24. #374
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    best hitch rack?

    I drive to/from El Paso from Tucson every week in a 2011 Volvo C30 hatchback. Little turbo 2.5 5 liter. At average 80 mph I get just over 27 with no rack, 25 with rack and just under 22 with a bike on top. I have about 45000 miles worth of data.

  25. #375
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    all good info guys,
    been thinking with my future usage patterns and with the 4gen outback and a 3 yr lab, I think this is is how it would pan out,

    Normal week week..2 bikes
    weekends away, 2 bikes + cargo + dog
    bigger weekends away, 4 bikes + cargo + dog


    so it looks like I will need a cargo box, (and therefore will need real bars and not the OEM ones), so options are 4 bike tray and cargo on roof, or 2 bike tray with 2 bikes on roof with cargo box. Might see myself annoyed a bit with the hitch tray only, be it 2 or 4, if traveling with the dog, so best solution might be to a roof and a hitch mount.

    I've always had Thule fork mounts but just returned them for the tension knob being intermittent, so leaning towards complete bike mounts, And now might start with a 1up roof tray, and progress to the hitch when needed.

  26. #376
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    I can see the point for those worried about the hitch racks and bikes getting whacked. Reading the thread again today it made me think why dont we put some of the blinky seat post lights on the bike farthest from the car facing the oncoming traffic? Think that would help much?

    Bob

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