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  1. #3101
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    *************
    Rack comes with security bolts that require special allen wrench to operate. Special allen wrench is unique to 1UpUSA and is not an industry standard allen security bolt. Typical security bolts have an allen head with a pin that comes up in the middle. The 1UpUSA version of that has a bigger pin that comes up so you have to get a wrench from 1UpUSA.
    ************
    J.
    I am unsure if this is true... My pin measures .188...Bondus specs their security tool hole at .193 +.010/-0.000
    I think I'll buy a set just to see if Bondus will work... I can always use them as regular Allen wrenches............

  2. #3102
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    I don't have a CR-V but I do have a silver Mazda 3 Hatchback and it looks great with my silver bike rack.
    Quote Originally Posted by Soundwaviator View Post
    Okay all you 1up lovers out there, I need your help....

    I've been pulling my hair out for two days trying to decide whether to get the silver or black rack. I plan to get the single bike rack with an add-on for one additional bike.

    I have a 2011 Honda CRV in "Alabaster Silver" color. So far, in all 58 pages of this thread, I have not seen ANY pics of this rack on a Honda CRV.

    Are there any CRV owners out there who have the 1up rack? If so, would you PLEAAASE post some pics asap?!?

    Also, I have not seen many pics of silver cars with a black rack. If anyone has a silver car (not gray) with a black rack, would you please also post some pics of the rack on your car from various angles and with the rack in different positions (without the bike on the rack, preferably)?

    Thanks!!
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  3. #3103
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    Once you go black...

  4. #3104
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    Quote Originally Posted by stochastic View Post
    Need more info:

    What color is your favorite purse?

    Black skirt, white shirt, what color belt?

    You get silver-tipped nails, what color bracelet?
    LOL, for real? Should I be offended or are you just trying to flirt? Well, I'll take it as a compliment either way I guess! Here's the "needed" info you asked for:

    I don't have a "purse". I use backpacks of varying sizes for different purposes.

    I don't care much for skirts (especially while riding bikes...ouch), and I don't really like white shirts either...get dirty too easily.

    I wear a black utility belt for work, and spending $30 bucks a pop to get my nails done is a waste of money IMO because they already look fantastic au naturale.

    Do I care about quality and style? Hell yes. Do I want my rack and car to still look good together years from now? For 600 bucks, absolutely. Do I give a rip if they match my wardrobe? Well, if I did I'd probably be on a different forum.

    Hope that helps

  5. #3105
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    Thread Bump. About to order a rack.
    Don't have any fat bikes in our stash, but it would make sense to just order a fatbike spacer just because. I'll probably pay just that much in shipping down the road if I decide to order it.

    1Up doesnt' seem to make it a standard and make all their racks fatbike compatiable, so there must be a rhyme or reason for it ? Anyone can shed some insight.

  6. #3106
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.

    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    1Up doesnt' seem to make it a standard and make all their racks fatbike compatiable, so there must be a rhyme or reason for it ? Anyone can shed some insight.
    If they made the standard rack arms wide enough to accommodate fat bike tires, they would be too wide to work well with skinny tires.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  7. #3107
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    I think getting the fat bike adapter (spacer kit) when you order the rack makes a lot of sense if you plan to get a fat bike in the future. I got the spacer kit and it works with my skinny, plus, and road bikes just fine. So why not make all racks fat bike compatible standard? I would guess the main thing is the tooling and assembly. There are other good reason too such as many people who will never own a fat bike and wouldn't want the added expense and weight.
    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    Thread Bump. About to order a rack.
    Don't have any fat bikes in our stash, but it would make sense to just order a fatbike spacer just because. I'll probably pay just that much in shipping down the road if I decide to order it.

    1Up doesnt' seem to make it a standard and make all their racks fatbike compatiable, so there must be a rhyme or reason for it ? Anyone can shed some insight.
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  8. #3108
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    Isn't the shape of the cone/profile where it meets the same ~contact patch~ on the tire - regardless. The primary difference is the plastic space/longer bolt that makes the holder wider - and a longer cone.

    Hence, on 1Ups website, they say if you order the fatbike option "The original hardware will not be sent with the order as it is not necessary in order to transport any other type of bike"

  9. #3109
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    Isn't the shape of the cone/profile where it meets the same ~contact patch~ on the tire - regardless. The primary difference is the plastic space/longer bolt that makes the holder wider - and a longer cone.

    Hence, on 1Ups website, they say if you order the fatbike option "The original hardware will not be sent with the order as it is not necessary in order to transport any other type of bike"
    Yes it is, but it's still not quite as stable as the standard. I have one of each on my 2-bike rack.
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  10. #3110
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    That's the point of the OP. The cone sits on the tire and makes contact. That is the same profile/contact patch. Well, maybe the fatbike version is slighly larger.

    BUT, I quoted 1UP's disclaimer, and they say IF you order the fatbike cone addon, they will replace it and NOT include the standard cone, as the FB addon, when installed, WORKS with all bikes

  11. #3111
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    The fat bike cones work for everything. Still, I picked up their plastic wheel adapter thingies that spreads the pressure out a bit. I mainly got it for my carbon rims- to spread out the pressure but use it practically anytime I have one of my road bikes on. I do not use them with the cross bike, the MTB and obviously not the fat bike,

  12. #3112
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    Oh, one caveat. I have a Wrangler with 35" tires. If I put the fatbike cones on the tray closest to the vehicle, I get slight rub when opening the tailgate- tire bottom rubs on the rack arm. It is not a big deal but it does bug me a bit since I forget at time and open it fast. There are a lot of variables here so unless you're using the TeraFlex carrier with 35" or larger tires, it likely will not rub. This is just a caveat for modified Wrangler owners.

  13. #3113
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    Off topic or on, but why the upcharge on black.

    The trays are powdercoated.
    The rest are anodized.

    IMO, there is not that much a price differential in color material for the upcharge...

    I actually though the entire assembly was PC, hence the upcharge in black but it turns out, it's just the trays

  14. #3114
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    Off topic or on, but why the upcharge on black.

    The trays are powdercoated.
    The rest are anodized.

    IMO, there is not that much a price differential in color material for the upcharge...

    I actually though the entire assembly was PC, hence the upcharge in black but it turns out, it's just the trays
    Capitalism?

    Personally I like the black and was willing to pay more for it.
    NTFTC

  15. #3115
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    Still hemming and hawing. Have not ordered it . Debating on color.
    I like the black but 2 out of the 3 cars in the house are dark.

    Methinks the silver might be functionally as it stands out. The weekend drivers enough already..... Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not

  16. #3116
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    Still hemming and hawing. Have not ordered it . Debating on color.
    I like the black but 2 out of the 3 cars in the house are dark.

    Methinks the silver might be functionally as it stands out. The weekend drivers enough already..... Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not
    I think you should get the bronze one.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  17. #3117
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not
    Why do it need to stand out?
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  18. #3118
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    If the tray with no bike is not folded up and folded down, too many id1ot drivers will easily just ride up on the tray.....half are weekend drivers, then theirs the latter just ride your a@@

  19. #3119
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    OK. I just took it for granted that everyone will fold their up their rack when not carrying bikes like I always do. Besides, idiot drivers or not I wouldn't want any more additional length sticking out behind my car than the rack already does even folded up.
    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    If the tray with no bike is not folded up and folded down, too many id1ot drivers will easily just ride up on the tray.....half are weekend drivers, then theirs the latter just ride your a@@
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  20. #3120
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefwong View Post
    Still hemming and hawing. Have not ordered it . Debating on color.
    I like the black but 2 out of the 3 cars in the house are dark.

    Methinks the silver might be functionally as it stands out. The weekend drivers enough already..... Methinks the silver might afford a certain focal point that the black does not
    Thanks for making me realize...I'm not OCD after all.
    NTFTC

  21. #3121
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    You are overthinking it. Silver is better. That is all.


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  22. #3122
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    Agreed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott In MD View Post
    You are overthinking it. Silver is better. That is all.


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  23. #3123
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    On the 1up website it shows the 1.5" bike rack is rated at 50lbs.

    My bike weighs in at 48 lbs. Being so close to the rated weight of the rack do you all think the bike and rack will be fine?

  24. #3124
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    Yup.
    Quote Originally Posted by Itsmejson View Post
    On the 1up website it shows the 1.5" bike rack is rated at 50lbs.

    My bike weighs in at 48 lbs. Being so close to the rated weight of the rack do you all think the bike and rack will be fine?
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  25. #3125
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I think you should get the bronze one.
    If you get a black one, you may end up with a bronze one. I leave mine on the car all the time, and it's had some color change. Not sure what's causing it, probably the sun. It doesn't bother me, and I still love the rack. I wonder if that's a common occurrence or if mine is just "special".

  26. #3126
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    I just ordered the 1up Super Duty after my Kuat was damaged in a fender bender. Can't wait to get this thing on my truck! May paint mine desert camo.
    Such a long long time to be gone
    and a short time to be there

  27. #3127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    If you get a black one, you may end up with a bronze one. I leave mine on the car all the time, and it's had some color change. Not sure what's causing it, probably the sun. It doesn't bother me, and I still love the rack. I wonder if that's a common occurrence or if mine is just "special".
    Mine has done this as well, and I agree, no big deal.

    It's a bike rack, not a fashion accessory.

  28. #3128
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    [QUOTE=Geralt;12879804]If you get a black one, you may end up with a bronze one. I leave mine on the car all the time, and it's had some color change. Not sure what's causing it, probably the sun. [QUOTE]

    Yes. Aluminum anodizing, at it's core, is using electricity to attract dies into the surface of the part. Dies that are not UV-stabilized will fade quickly.
    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

  29. #3129
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Rack comes with security bolts that require special allen wrench to operate. Special allen wrench is unique to 1UpUSA and is not an industry standard allen security bolt. Typical security bolts have an allen head with a pin that comes up in the middle. The 1UpUSA version of that has a bigger pin that comes up so you have to get a wrench from 1UpUSA.

    One thing I did was take the 1UpUSA long wrench that has a security connection on either end and cut off a little bit of the end. I glued that into a 3/8" socket and then use a ratchet drive to make it go faster. The shorter wrench also can be spun inside the main section of the rack without having to remove it when it hits the rack supports.

    J.
    I have now confirmed the underlined part is not true. And I'll leave it at that....
    I now have a spare non 1-up wrench....

  30. #3130
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony View Post
    I have now confirmed the underlined part is not true. And I'll leave it at that....
    I now have a spare non 1-up wrench....
    Why would you just "leave it at that"? If you have some information that we might need to know then let's hear it.
    NTFTC

  31. #3131
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegweed View Post
    Why would you just "leave it at that"? If you have some information that we might need to know then let's hear it.
    Good question.. I thought people might be unhappy if I refuted the idea that our racks use a 'special non-standard tamper resistant' hex wrench, that I would be informing the hooligans of a security issue.
    If not a security issue, than at least the idea the the wrenches are easier to come by then some people think....

    I grabbed a set of Bondhus TR hex's and the 3/8" wrench works on all 3 TR bolts on my rack... One of the add-on bolts was a bit tight but now is no problem. I can easily loosen or torque the bolts...
    I doubt that my bolts are in spec (apparently with an industry standard) due to wear at the cold headers...But rather are just normal TR bolts....

    As far as I could measure the pins, I got .190", and the Bondhus spec is .193"-.203" diameter hole...

    Just food for thought....Not to rely solely on a 'special proprietary' bolt..... Because I don't think it is....

  32. #3132
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony View Post
    Good question.. I thought people might be unhappy if I refuted the idea that our racks use a 'special non-standard tamper resistant' hex wrench, that I would be informing the hooligans of a security issue.
    If not a security issue, than at least the idea the the wrenches are easier to come by then some people think....
    Good point.
    NTFTC

  33. #3133
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    How much effort does it take to fold up a 1up super duty with 4 bike trays compared to a 4 tray Thule T2?

  34. #3134
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    How much effort does it take to fold up a 1up super duty with 4 bike trays compared to a 4 tray Thule T2?
    Can't speak for the T2 but I can easily do this with one hand and so can my wife.

    J

  35. #3135
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    They finally brought their website into the 21st century.
    NTFTC

  36. #3136
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    Finally bit the bullet and bought a 1.25 single 1Up USA rack in black. Installed the Curt hitch receiver with help from my neighbor. Was gonna try to find a deal on a Kuat but like 99.5% of the time, I'm only carrying one bike to the trailhead so having a double rack on the car all the time that would make opening the rear hatch more difficult was a big reason I went with the single 1Up .

    The finish on this rack is really nice. I dig the black color (originally went wiht silver becuase it was cheaper, but slept on it and decided the black would look way better with my dark gray car. called 1Up the next day and changed it before it shipped out) and it is just put together really nice. really solid. very minimal wobble with the bike on the rack.

    only complaint is its kinda tough to get the spring loaded bar to move far enough to be able to pivot the rack up and down. i prolly just need to get used to working the mechanism and it wont be an issue. but i do wish they had some kind of foot actuated lever like Kuats do.

    Inaugural trip to the Apex trailhead went off without a "hitch". Think this was the right choice for me.




  37. #3137
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    Awesome. Congratulations and good luck.
    Quote Originally Posted by sooner518 View Post
    Finally bit the bullet and bought a 1.25 single 1Up USA rack in black. Installed the Curt hitch receiver with help from my neighbor. Was gonna try to find a deal on a Kuat but like 99.5% of the time, I'm only carrying one bike to the trailhead so having a double rack on the car all the time that would make opening the rear hatch more difficult was a big reason I went with the single 1Up .

    The finish on this rack is really nice. I dig the black color (originally went wiht silver becuase it was cheaper, but slept on it and decided the black would look way better with my dark gray car. called 1Up the next day and changed it before it shipped out) and it is just put together really nice. really solid. very minimal wobble with the bike on the rack.

    Inaugural trip to the Apex trailhead went off without a "hitch". Think this was the right choice for me.



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  38. #3138
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    Quote Originally Posted by sooner518 View Post

    only complaint is its kinda tough to get the spring loaded bar to move far enough to be able to pivot the rack up and down.
    Try putting some grease in the notches that the bar fits into.

  39. #3139
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    I have been running my 1UP with 2" stinger in a Torklift ecohitch 2" receiver. I've noticed that it is almost impossible to make it so that there's zero play in the rack. I have to tighten down the ball pretty good and then lift the rack, which creates some play and then tighten down the ball again. I don't think its going to back out at all, but its kind of like the receiver isn't perfectly square over its length . . . like its just a tad wider at the back, allowing the rack some slight movement. Anyone else get this? I'm not really sure how to fix it.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  40. #3140
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    Nope. My rack sits nice and snug in my receiver. The inside surface of your receiver might not be perfectly square or flat.
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I have been running my 1UP with 2" stinger in a Torklift ecohitch 2" receiver. I've noticed that it is almost impossible to make it so that there's zero play in the rack. I have to tighten down the ball pretty good and then lift the rack, which creates some play and then tighten down the ball again. I don't think its going to back out at all, but its kind of like the receiver isn't perfectly square over its length . . . like its just a tad wider at the back, allowing the rack some slight movement. Anyone else get this? I'm not really sure how to fix it.
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  41. #3141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    Try putting some grease in the notches that the bar fits into.
    good idea. ill give that a try. thanks

  42. #3142
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    Anyone been rear ended with the rack folded up yet?

    It happened to me last week. Very minor ... had some imprints in my bumper where the tray touches it, no visible damage to the rack itself. Still folds up and down just fine.

    The hinge itself tore 2 holes in the other guy's front bumper (that notched part of the rack where it sticks out with the 4 positions for up, slanted, level, and slanted down). I'm a bit concerned about possible force transmission from impact directly into the frame and causing very difficult-to-find damage in the panels or frame.

    Last thing I wanna do is let this guy off the hook due to lack of visible damage (other than paint), and then 5 years from now get dinged $2K on resale price because an appraiser finds a minor bend in the panels, undercarriage, whatever, that someone else missed.

    Gonna get inspected this week, just not sure if anyone has any similar experiences or advice.

  43. #3143
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Anyone been rear ended with the rack folded up yet?

    It happened to me last week. Very minor ... had some imprints in my bumper where the tray touches it, no visible damage to the rack itself. Still folds up and down just fine.

    The hinge itself tore 2 holes in the other guy's front bumper (that notched part of the rack where it sticks out with the 4 positions for up, slanted, level, and slanted down). I'm a bit concerned about possible force transmission from impact directly into the frame and causing very difficult-to-find damage in the panels or frame.

    Last thing I wanna do is let this guy off the hook due to lack of visible damage (other than paint), and then 5 years from now get dinged $2K on resale price because an appraiser finds a minor bend in the panels, undercarriage, whatever, that someone else missed.

    Gonna get inspected this week, just not sure if anyone has any similar experiences or advice.
    Every accident is different. The only way to do this is take it to good shop and have them go over it with very carefully.

    J.

  44. #3144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    Try putting some grease in the notches that the bar fits into.
    I tried that...not much luck. So I cobbed together this little setup. Actually works pretty well. The issue isn't really that it sticks, but that it is hard to pull the bar evenly. I also have 2 smaller loops I can attach to the cord for when I run 3 or 4 trays, I just thread them through the final hole in the last rack and attach the handle to hold it there. Honestly, with 2 racks it it only a minor improvement. When you have 4 racks on there, it is invaluable. ( to me ).

    Basic idea:

    • Cut a section of 1" pipe just shorter than the bar
    • Cut that section of pipe in half length ways. We need something to keep the cord out at the ends of the bar.
    • Drill two small holes in the ends of the "half-pipe".
    • Knot some cord through the pipe and attach to bar. ( zip ties keep it in place. i just used some random paracord i had lying around. you can probably find something better? )
    • Put loose end of cord through something to make a handle. (Again, I had an old yakima attachment nut lying around )


    The paracord isn't the best. A bit stretchy. Some thin cable might be ideal? Or high quality cord that doesn't stretch. ( dyneema etc ) I wasn't going to go out and actually buy something...too cheap for that

    Closeup of the connection to the bar from above.
    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-oneup.jpg

    From below:
    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-vlcsnap-2016-11-18-13h57m43s259.jpg
    In operation...

  45. #3145
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    Clever.
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