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  1. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80
    All locks do is to give a thief an obstacle. If you are using two locking methods, that means two sets of tools. This does that - the locking provisions inherent in the rack and the cable.

    J.
    I realize this. I know all bike locks are merely a deterrent. Still, I am looking for something I can use to lock my bike to my hitch and rack while I am having a few post ride beers without having a panic attack and checking on my bike every 5 minutes. I just want something that will take a thief a good amount of time to defeat. I realize I'd obviously need something longer.

    I'm not really super concerned about locking the rack to the car as I will just take it off most of the time when not in use, but his lock looks super clean attached to the rack cause it's short and minimalistic. If I was going to lock it to the hitch I'd use something similar. I'm still wondering what kind of lock that is.
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  2. #252
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    Somebody here in one of the 1UpUSA threads figured out how to lock it to the car with a U lock. I suppose you could then use that to lock the bikes to it with something else. I'd look at some permutation of the Sheldon Brown method:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

    Maybe using a chain to replace the post in the link above.

    J.

  3. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    I realize this. I know all bike locks are merely a deterrent. Still, I am looking for something I can use to lock my bike to my hitch and rack while I am having a few post ride beers without having a panic attack and checking on my bike every 5 minutes. I just want something that will take a thief a good amount of time to defeat. I realize I'd obviously need something longer.

    I'm not really super concerned about locking the rack to the car as I will just take it off most of the time when not in use, but his lock looks super clean attached to the rack cause it's short and minimalistic. If I was going to lock it to the hitch I'd use something similar. I'm still wondering what kind of lock that is.
    I use two thick cables - one through the hitch, with two loops - then thread another one through those loops, around the rack and bikes. Good enough to deter a casual thief.
    Last edited by Broccoli; 09-20-2010 at 05:04 PM.

  4. #254
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    Has anyone heard any official information from 1UP regarding the 4 bike setup? I have emails into them, I want something in writing, and have yet to hear anything.

  5. #255
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    Yes. I called them and asked.

    3 bikes for 1.25" hitch, 4 bikes for 2" hitch. It's not the rack, it's the tongue weight spec on the hitch. 1.25" hitches are speced with less weight allowed than 2".

    J.

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80
    Yes. I called them and asked.

    3 bikes for 1.25" hitch, 4 bikes for 2" hitch. It's not the rack, it's the tongue weight spec on the hitch. 1.25" hitches are speced with less weight allowed than 2".

    J.
    You're missing the point. I think he just wants it in writing for a CYA kind of thing since they removed it from the website. "That one guy at 1up told me I could" wouldn't really hold up if there actually was a failure. He's not talking about the tongue weight of the hitch. I'm sure he realizes that. He's talking about the capacity of the rack, which is a completely different thing. I could stick a few sticks in my hitch and mount stuff on it. The hitch's max tongue weight wouldn't be a factor here.

    I don't think anyone is overreacting here. If it supports it, he should have no problem getting it in writing. It's odd that they won't put it in writing but will tell you it's fine over the phone, don't you think? Why would they have it on the website at one point and then remove it later? It used to specifically say what they told you on the phone on the website, now it does not. That's all we're saying. You probably could get away with running a 4 bike setup on a 1 1/4 class 2 if it was one that securely bolted to the car frame and not have a failure if you really wanted to, but it would be outside of manufacturer spec. It would probably bob like crazy though. Nobody is actually questioning the strength of the rack itself.

    Class 2 hitches are rated for 300 pounds tongue weight. Rack is 22 pounds. Add-ons are 16.
    22 + (16x3) = 70 pounds for 4 bike rack setup.
    That still leaves you with 230 pounds to spare. 230 / 4 = 57.5
    If your bikes weren't more than 50 pounds you're not exceeding the max tongue weight for the hitch.

    You're exceeding the maximum weight you can exert on the rack's 1 1/4 arm inserted into the hitch. The force is greatest there. By using the 2 inch adapter you're increasing the rack arm's load bearing weight at the hitch. So it is indeed a rack limitation and not a hitch limitation.

    Anyway, I can't wait to get my 1 bike setup. It's arriving today.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 09-23-2010 at 10:35 AM.
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  7. #257
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    I know that when I ordered mine it clearly said it was capable of holding 4 bikes using a 2" hitch (with adapter) with various individual bike weight limits. If I ever run into a problem with that, then I don't see how I could possibly be liable.

    The front page of the website says you can hold 4 bikes (someone should print that for evidence, cause I think they forgot to change it). Also why does it say "NEW" Quik-rack? They must have changed something, design, materials? The "new" weight limits must be a result of the "new" bike rack...glad I have and "old" rack with "old" weight limits.

  8. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Class 2 hitches are rated for 300 pounds tongue weight. Rack is 22 pounds. Add-ons are 16.
    22 + (16x3) = 70 pounds for 4 bike rack setup.
    That still leaves you with 230 pounds to spare. 230 / 4 = 57.5
    If your bikes weren't more than 50 pounds you're not exceeding the max tongue weight for the hitch.
    You are computing a static load. Unlike tongue weight of a towed trailer, with its weight mostly on the wheels, I would imagine there would be a much larger variation with a free hanging rack bouncing up and down and twisting out, so if the static load rating includes some margin for trailer - it probably needs to be larger for a bicycle rack. Instanteneous load would be well over the actual weight of the rack with bikes. (assuming 50lb walmart specials - there is just 30lb in your calculation left as a margin. Not nearly comfortable.)
    I do not know how the strength margin for hitch is actually computed - but I would be surprised that it is done with a long free hanging rack in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    So it is indeed a rack limitation and not a hitch limitation.
    Kuat and other manufacturers have even stricter load limits for 4-bike racks, and they quote the hitch limitation. So I think you are wrong in your assertion. Kuat only lets you run 2-bike, 40lb per bike, in 1-1/4" as far as I remember.

  9. #259
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    You're probably right about the free hanging unsupported weight being less than rated tongue weight, but still. How many people have 50 pound bikes anyway?

    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    Kuat and other manufacturers have even stricter load limits for 4-bike racks, and they quote the hitch limitation. So I think you are wrong in your assertion. Kuat only lets you run 2-bike, 40lb per bike, in 1-1/4" as far as I remember.
    Yeah, but are they referring to a receiver size limitation (and thus the rack arm size limitation) or the hitch load carrying capacity? I think it's a bit of a misnomer. Looking at my 1.25 hitch which is stout and bolted securely into my frame with 6 pre-drilled holes...I think the arm of any hitch would fail long before the hitch itself would fail. Kuat's racks are also a lot heavier.

    I think the issue is that having a 2 inch arm inserted into a 2 inch hitch, the rack arm that is supporting all the weight would be stouter and less easily bent or broken. With a 1.25 inch rack arm inserted into the 1.25 hitch, the thinner rack arm cannot support the same force applied to it at the hitch.

    Even though they quote hitch limitation, I think it's still a rack limitation essentially (rack arm size limitation because of receiver size). The narrower arm is not as strong as the larger arm. All the weight of the rack and driving forces like bumps and turns are supported by the rack arm where it meets the hitch. I believe in almost all scenarios your rack will fail long before the hitch fails, unless it is poorly mounted to the vehicle. I don't think [the rack limitation] is truly a hitch limitation because I don't think the primary worry is that your hitch will fall off your car or that your hitch will snap. I think the higher concern is that your rack will fail in some way.

    If you stuck a long steel pipe into your trailer hitch and jump up and down on it, which would happen first? Would the hitch break or would the pipe fail in some way first (either by bending or breaking)? I think the latter. Which would be stronger, the 1.25" pipe or the 2" pipe? So essentially the limit is not in the load carrying capacity of the hitch itself, but the limitation on the size of the lever arm imposed by the size of the hitch. So it's not technically a trailer hitch weight bearing limitation, which is why I think all rack companies have different weight restrictions for different racks. I could be completely wrong here. I'm just brainstorming.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 09-23-2010 at 01:27 PM.
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  10. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    You're probably right about the free hanging unsupported weight being less than rated tongue weight, but still. How many people have 50 pound bikes anyway?
    Those people who shop for cheap bikes. Some of them are stupendously heavy.


    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    I believe in almost all scenarios your rack will fail long before the hitch fails, unless it is poorly mounted to the vehicle. I don't think [the rack limitation] is truly a hitch limitation because I don't think the primary worry is that your hitch will fall off your car or that your hitch will snap. I think the higher concern is that your rack will fail in some way. I could be completely wrong here. I'm just brainstorming.
    Failure point on 1up rack would be either an inch+ thick aluminum bar, or bolts going through half inch thick aluminum plates on the main tray. Failure points on a U-haul special 1-1/4" on a sedan would be some < M12 bolts attached to sheet metal and leveraged up the wazoo. I would bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first.

    P.S. Anybody wants to try?
    Last edited by Broccoli; 09-23-2010 at 03:30 PM.

  11. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curmy
    Those people who shop for cheap bikes. Some of them are stupendeously heavy.




    Failure point on 1up rack would be either an inch+ thick aluminum bar, or bolts going through half inch thick aluminum plates on the main tray. Failure points on a U-haul special 1-1/4" on a sedan would be some < M12 bolts attached to sheet metal and leveraged up the wazoo. I would bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first.

    P.S. Anybody wants to try?
    My thoughts exactly regarding the 1up rack. I hope you could see why I was referring to it as a rack limitation and not technically a hitch limitation (at least as far as load bearing capacity is concerned). *It probably would be a hitch limitation on something like a small civic with a sketchy mounted hitch.*

    For what it's worth on my car it can support class 3 and class 2 hitches and uses the same interface with pre-drilled holes into the actual frame and the same size bolts. I ultimately decided on a class 2 cause I didn't need a class 3 and I thought it would be a little less obvious with nothing on it (but it's not really). Ground clearance I thought might be slightly better since my car sits pretty low and I've hit my front and rear bumpers on the ground on several occasions. Plus it's a little less weight for the car to carry around. If I ever needed a 2 inch the option is always there for me down the road. The 1.25 I have is pretty damn beefy so I think the rack would fail first in my case. I won't ever carry more than 2 bikes anyway. The Charger isn't your typical sedan though.

    I know this isn't the case on most small cars and people actually have to drill holes or actually mount hitches to the bumper. I'm not really referring to those cases which are pretty weak attachments.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 09-23-2010 at 03:11 PM.
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  12. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    My thoughts exactly regarding the 1up rack. I hope you could see why I was referring to it as a rack limitation and not technically a hitch limitation (at least as far as load bearing capacity is concerned). *It probably would be a hitch limitation on something like a small civic with a sketchy mounted hitch.*

    For what it's worth on my car it can support class 3 and class 2 hitches and uses the same interface with pre-drilled holes into the actual frame and the same size bolts. I ultimately decided on a class 2 cause I didn't need a class 3 and I thought it would be a little less obvious with nothing on it (but it's not really). Ground clearance I thought might be slightly better since my car sits pretty low and I've hit my front and rear bumpers on the ground on several occasions. Plus it's a little less weight for the car to carry around. If I ever needed a 2 inch the option is always there for me down the road. The 1.25 I have is pretty damn beefy so I think the rack would fail first in my case. I won't ever carry more than 2 bikes anyway. The Charger isn't your typical sedan though.

    I know this isn't the case on most small cars and people actually have to drill holes or actually mount hitches to the bumper. I'm not really referring to those cases which are pretty weak attachments.
    I think you're misinterpreting Curmy. It seems to me like he's saying that the better engineered rack is less likely to fail before the hitch. This is due to the questionable installs some hitches have as well as their attachment points. It seems that something built as substantially as this rack would be unlikely to be the weakest link.

    I would use all 4 trays on my class 2 hitch on my car without hesitation.

  13. #263
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    I just got mine today. This is one well built piece of kit. It's pretty sweet. I'm really glad I waited. I do think I'll have to get used to the way the bike is secured. It looks perfectly secure but I'm paranoid that there's nothing else holding it in the rack. =/

    Only issue is I ran into the same thing as Blantonator. I can only put it up in the 45 degree position because my bumper sticks out too far. Even so it will be perfect for me. I'll try and get pics when there's daylight tomorrow afternoon and post them up.
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  14. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad
    I think you're misinterpreting Curmy. It seems to me like he's saying that the better engineered rack is less likely to fail before the hitch. This is due to the questionable installs some hitches have as well as their attachment points. It seems that something built as substantially as this rack would be unlikely to be the weakest link.

    I would use all 4 trays on my class 2 hitch on my car without hesitation.
    The cynic in me wonders what really prompted the change on the website. I'm sure the folks at 1UP didn't just wake up one morning and say "hey, let's change the load capacity of the rack!" My guess is there was some sort of a failure, hopefully it was an overloaded hitch, and 1UP jumped straight into CYA mode. On the unfortunate side this leaves people like me who already squirm when they look at 4 loaded bikes through the rear view feeling very uncertain about their fairly new $900 rack. On my setup the difference in flex between 3 and 4 bikes appears to be substantial, I'm quite comfortable looking in the rear view with 3 bikes as visible flex is minimal but adding the 4th bike puts butterflies in my stomach.

  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad
    I think you're misinterpreting Curmy. It seems to me like he's saying that the better engineered rack is less likely to fail before the hitch. This is due to the questionable installs some hitches have as well as their attachment points. It seems that something built as substantially as this rack would be unlikely to be the weakest link.

    I would use all 4 trays on my class 2 hitch on my car without hesitation.
    I think you need to read his post again. In any case, I'm not worried about "my" hitch or "my" rack.
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  16. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    I think you need to read his post again. In any case, I'm not worried about "my" hitch or "my" rack.
    I did before I posted. He clearly said that he would "...bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first."

    You said:

    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    I was referring to it as a rack limitation and not technically a hitch limitation
    Anyhoo, I just feel bad when people are worried about this or what when I feel like there is little evidence for concern.

    Enjoy your rack. It's one of the few things I own which always does exactly what it should, without me worrying or "compensating" for it.

  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1

    Class 2 hitches are rated for 300 pounds tongue weight. Rack is 22 pounds. Add-ons are 16.
    22 + (16x3) = 70 pounds for 4 bike rack setup.
    That still leaves you with 230 pounds to spare. 230 / 4 = 57.5
    If your bikes weren't more than 50 pounds you're not exceeding the max tongue weight for the hitch.
    It's more complicated than that. When hauling a regular trailer, the force experienced by the hitch acts straight down towards the ground because the bulk load is supported by the trailer. There is almost no torque on the actual hitch. When you mount a bike rack on, the hitch not only experiences the weight of the bike, but also the torque of that load on the end of the rack which acts basically as a lever. Each bike will contribute a greater torque than the previous as they get farther from the hitch.

    If you want to experience this for yourself, get two heavy things and a pole or something to attach them to. First attach both heavy things in the center of the pole, rest one end on a table or something and pick up the other end. Now remove one of the heavy things and try to use your wrist to lift the pole out level with the ground. You should be supporting the same amount of weight, but you find it takes substantially more strength in your wrist to do it.
    Last edited by Dogbrain; 09-24-2010 at 12:31 PM.
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  18. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad
    I did before I posted. He clearly said that he would "...bet on the hitch to car interface to fail first."
    Indeed, I have said that.

  19. #269
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    See, we do speak the same language!

  20. #270
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    Because the Quik-Rack has a 1-1/4" hitch bar the bike limit is 3 bike maximum, and no more than 50 pounds per bike."

    I bought the 1UPUSA rack with one extra bike option. I am very pleased, but I never did feel comfortable with the claim for 4 bikes and fully bought it never really planning to have more than just 2 bikes max. I would buy again and highly recommend it. But also told my friends I would never go to 4 bikes. It now seem official- 3 max.

    But looking at the website, it is pretty clear they have backed off at least in written words from the 4 bikes option and now limit it to 3 max for all receiver mounts. They say it is the rack's1-1/4" hitch bar as the limitations now. And they recently beefed up the back connection plate too. I suspect 4 bikes just always pushing it and must have had some failures or wanting to reduce their liabilities somehow. And as you know, it only fits a 2 inch received because of the receiver adaptor.

    Since I did not buy expecting t to every have use 4 bikes, I am ok. Not sure how I would feel it I had planned to go to 4 in the future, much less already had 4.

    150 lb of bikes + rack weight is still a lot for all the varying roads conditions, hitch quality and mounting, and even careless drivers hitting bumps hard or doing fast corners for a small piece of rack's1-1/4"AL high leverage off a mount point.

    Before I bought the 1UPUSA I looked at the Thule Helium,, it claimed AL, but the mount bar was steel. Suspect their liability lawyers had some input to engineering. "

  21. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by skoor
    ................... And they recently beefed up the back connection plate too. I suspect 4 bikes just always pushing it and must have had some failures or wanting to reduce their liabilities somehow. And as you know, it only fits a 2 inch received because of the receiver adaptor.
    ..............
    I heard nothing of a "beefed up" back connection plate. Please enlighten me as to how and when this was done, also clarify what you mean by the back plate.

    Thanks

  22. #272
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    I got mine on Friday. Rock solid, very happy with it. Only drawback is that it blocks the license plate when folded up.

    However, that feature came very much in handy today in the crowded bike parking lot. It folds up very close to the bumper, and I was able to squeeze into a tight spot.

    This thing is rad. I should have done this sooner.

  23. #273
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    Well since I only ever plan on using my rack for 2 bikes I'm not concerned. But they did remove the 4 bike language from the website, which says something. And other people tend to agree with me so I'm not the only one who thinks it's strange. All I was doing was bringing it to the attention of the people who hadn't realized that the language changed. They can do with that information what they like.

    In any case, I really need to buy a second tray. Having to put the trunk rack back on when my dad was in town sucked.
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    I feel that those of us who bought a 4 bike setup have an obligation to be concerned. I know I don't want my rack to fail as it has the potential to be very bad in many different ways. However, from the best I can tell 1UP would be required by law to recall the rack if a design deficiency was found that would prevent it from safely carrying 4 bikes. I just wish that 1UP was a little more straight forward as to what precipitated this change in capacity.

    BaeckerX1 I am grateful for the original post as it needs to be addressed.

    edit: Also, the rack is a truly innovative design and feels rock solid with up to 3 bikes loaded. But putting a 4th bike on the racks really amplifies the appearance of vertical movement through the rear view mirror.

  25. #275
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    Since we've beaten that other issue to death now...

    My dad was actually laughing at me for spending $300 on a single tray bike rack....until he saw it when he came out to visit. He wasn't laughing anymore. He said he could see why it was so expensive. It really is just quality kit, and I love being able to only run 1 tray.
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  26. #276
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    well worth the wait
    i was disappointed because of the wait time for orders, but im glad i got this rack
    quality is top notch, nothing comes close
    I just got mine in today

  27. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by edthesped
    I feel that those of us who bought a 4 bike setup have an obligation to be concerned. I know I don't want my rack to fail as it has the potential to be very bad in many different ways. However, from the best I can tell 1UP would be required by law to recall the rack if a design deficiency was found that would prevent it from safely carrying 4 bikes. I just wish that 1UP was a little more straight forward as to what precipitated this change in capacity.

    BaeckerX1 I am grateful for the original post as it needs to be addressed.

    edit: Also, the rack is a truly innovative design and feels rock solid with up to 3 bikes loaded. But putting a 4th bike on the racks really amplifies the appearance of vertical movement through the rear view mirror.
    I called and talked to Cal on this issue about a month ago. The limitation is the rating on the 1-1/4" hitch rating, not the rack. You an use 4 bikes on a 2" hitch and 3 bikes on a 1.25" hitch. I believe with most of the other brands you are limited to two bikes on a 1.25" hitch.

    The liability for 1UpUSA is recommending that you overload the spec on 1.25" hitches with 4 bikes. They can only go and recommend to the industry standard regardless of how strong their rack is.

    J.

  28. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80
    I called and talked to Cal on this issue about a month ago. The limitation is the rating on the 1-1/4" hitch rating, not the rack. You an use 4 bikes on a 2" hitch and 3 bikes on a 1.25" hitch. I believe with most of the other brands you are limited to two bikes on a 1.25" hitch.

    The liability for 1UpUSA is recommending that you overload the spec on 1.25" hitches with 4 bikes. They can only go and recommend to the industry standard regardless of how strong their rack is.

    J.
    Thanks John,

    I too called a while ago and got the same answer and feel more comfortable about the 4 bike setup. I figured I should let sleeping dogs lie. The rack is going to get a real workout next summer. We already have 3 trips planned that involve bringing bikes along. Each trip is 400 mi or better, I figure I'll forget all about the hitch questions and my concerns after the first trip.

  29. #279
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    I don't think you need to worry about it at all. In order for the rack to catastrophically fail, you'd have to have the main member bend big, break or tear through a lot of thick aluminum plate. Neither one is very likely or probable.

    The only thing I do is take a toe clip strap and put it around the rims of the outermost bike and the tray. If you ever hit a monumental bump and your tires were low, there could be compression enough for the bike to loosen but not come out. It's not necessary but if your paranoid, that's a good solution. Frankly, I'd do that on any rack that depends on tire pressure as part of the holding mechanism. Thule and Yak racks that do this are probably even more likely to experience this as a problem - and all three of them are very, very remote possibilities.

    Don't worry - I hit a major bump in a construction zone at about 80mph on the outskirts of Denver this summer with 4 bikes on the rack. We all got knocked around big in the car (was dangerous for sure) and the bikes were fine. My fault, didn't slow down fast enough and the bump was right there across the entire road. Had I lost a bike, it would have been my fault for sure. That was on a 2500 mile round trip and we had no problems.

    J.

  30. #280
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    used my rack for the first time today
    love it
    here are some pics
    i added reflective tape to mine




  31. #281
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    I placed a order on Friday for the rack and 1 add-on, I received confirmation that it shipped on Monday, and it will be here on Thursday. Can't wait to get it.

  32. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0Trunk
    I placed a order on Friday for the rack and 1 add-on, I received confirmation that it shipped on Monday, and it will be here on Thursday. Can't wait to get it.
    You won't regret purchasing it...

  33. #283
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    I received the rack today, great craftsmanship.

  34. #284
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    Ordered rack + add-on Wednesday night, shipped Thursday morning, received today. Took about 30 seconds to put on the car.

    Awesome.

  35. #285
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    It looks like they're currently not quoting the 2 week lead time on the website. It says they're in stock and shipping same day or next day. Just ordered my second bike add-on. Hopefully no long wait this time. I've been really happy with the rack so far.

    Mine has recently developed quite the squeal when I open the arms though. I need to oil the hinge methinks.

    My only concern with the rack at all is it seems those little springs that hold the lever for the arms closed could fail after a period of time? They seem sturdy enough, but not overly so. I haven't had any issue with it all season, just wondering about the future. Am I just being too paranoid? I'm sure I am, but I can't help it. The rack has been more than secure so far, yet I still look for potential failure points, and probably would with any rack. I guess that's what happens when you have that much money hanging off the back of your car. =/
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  36. #286
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    Hi Baecker,

    You are correct about the springs on the arms, at least the older version. 1Up is good about honoring their Lifetime Warrenty though.

    Our springs failed after 1 year, but even then I wasn't worried about the bike falling off the rack. The result of the failed spring was that it was more difficult to open the arms to remove the bike.

    I emailed 1UpUSA about it, thinking they would send me some new springs and I would fix it myself. Instead, they emailed me a prepaid shipping label to print out and rebuilt the whole rack and put stronger arms on, too. It was a bummer to be without the rack for 2 weeks, but it does work perfectly again and seems even stronger than before.

    Regarding locks, we have a two cable system, because we like to go for lunch after riding and don't want to worry. We run a looped cable through a loop on the hitch like a noose and up through the wheels on the bike, so the other loop end is up around the center of the frames. Then we take a .75" cable lock from a motorcycle store through the frames, rack, and the loop of the first cable. It is easier to put on and off than it sounds. Yes, someone could get through it if they really wanted. I wouldn't leave it outside overnight. But, it does give peace of mind while eating lunch.


    https://www.kryptonitelock.com/produ...=1001&pid=1182



    Have fun!
    Consuela

  37. #287
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    Looks like the black racks are available now. I like the silver one on my grey car, but for those of you who can't live without black.... they are $50 more:

    http://1upusa.com/1upusarackblack.htm

  38. #288
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    Just a note to state that for those on the fence, this company is top notch to work with and they stand behind their products (both racks and trainers).

  39. #289
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    I'm considering this rack for my truck that has a camper shell on it. I have a Yakima holdup currently, which, unless I put a hitch extension on it, interferes with the tailgate when dropped. I would be very happy if I could lower my tailgate without interference, and ecstatic If it didn't poke out past the tailgate when the gate is down.

    Would a 1up owner be kind enough to measure from the top of the hitch to the highest point on the inside tray when the tray is folded up and the rack is horizontal/down? Another useful measurement would be from the hitch pin to the terminal portion of the rack when horizontal/down.

  40. #290
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    ...terminal portion of a two tray system.

  41. #291
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    Can anyone comment on how the arms stay in place? This is what makes this design different from just about everything out there on the market, but I don't see any springs etc? Is there some sort of a ratcheting mechanism? It seems to me there would be nothing but the tire's snug fit from preventing the arms from falling open?

  42. #292
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    They lock in place when the arms are pushed up against the tire. They can only be released when you pull up on the red levers. There is a locking spring mechanism within the lever.
    At least that's what I see in mine.
    If you're worried about it releasing, DON'T. Mine has never come loose, and that's after a year of good abuse.

  43. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab
    I'm considering this rack for my truck that has a camper shell on it. I have a Yakima holdup currently, which, unless I put a hitch extension on it, interferes with the tailgate when dropped. I would be very happy if I could lower my tailgate without interference, and ecstatic If it didn't poke out past the tailgate when the gate is down.

    Would a 1up owner be kind enough to measure from the top of the hitch to the highest point on the inside tray when the tray is folded up and the rack is horizontal/down? Another useful measurement would be from the hitch pin to the terminal portion of the rack when horizontal/down.
    Heh, I just posted this thread, but curiously started reading about this rack and am considering it, even if it is a little more expensive than the T2. And I was planning to post the same question once I was finished reading the thread, so had to laugh when I saw yours on the last page.

    So yeah, truck with a camper shell, just want to make sure that I can drop the tailgate when there are no bikes on the rack.

  44. #294
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    and one additional question: how will the rack secure a bicycle that has a flat tire?

  45. #295
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    Regarding the 4 bike set-up. It is my understanding that anything built on a 1 1/4" receiver should be limited to 3 bikes and about 150 pounds, whether you adapt up to 2" or not. I emailed 1up about availability of a Quik-rack built on a 2" receiver and suitable for 4 bikes. Within an hour I received a reply stating that design is in the works, and they hope to have them available around the end of April.

  46. #296
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    I'm thinking of getting a RAV4 for my next car. Will this rack work on it? The RAV4 has a large, swinging rear door, so I don't think this rack would allow it to open.

  47. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by @dam
    I'm thinking of getting a RAV4 for my next car. Will this rack work on it? The RAV4 has a large, swinging rear door, so I don't think this rack would allow it to open.
    it works fine on my 2010 rav4. it will only go up to the 3/4 position (not full vertical) when stowed because of the spare tire, which I thought might annoy me before I got it. in fact the rack in that position is still very low profile and tucked in and it's a total non-issue. if you put the rack into the horizontal position (with no bike loaded) you can open the rear door all the way. you ought to be able to open the rear door a little bit with a bike loaded and the rack in the downwards position, but I doubt you'd be able to open the door all the way. I'm totally happy with it (and a huge fan of the rav4 as well).

  48. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bagwhan
    and one additional question: how will the rack secure a bicycle that has a flat tire?
    Fortunately I haven't had to try it, but I think it would work just fine - I see no reason why it wouldn't. In addition to the arms, it comes with a velcro strap that you can use to secure one of the wheels. But the only reason I see why the arm wouldn't secure a flat is if there was no tire on the rim at all.

  49. #299
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    Velcro Strap?

    Quote Originally Posted by BigTex91
    Fortunately I haven't had to try it, but I think it would work just fine - I see no reason why it wouldn't. In addition to the arms, it comes with a velcro strap that you can use to secure one of the wheels. But the only reason I see why the arm wouldn't secure a flat is if there was no tire on the rim at all.
    Mine didn't come with a velcro strap. Guess I could always make my own though. Mine is on my Honda CRV. Yes, I am able to open my cargo door, but not fully unless I remove the bike. Not sure how the door works on the RAV4.

  50. #300
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    I am in the market for a hitch rack for my 2010 focus and am really on the fence about this one, i love the design but is hard justifying $300 for a single rack especially since i was getting ready to order the swagman xc2 for $140 shipped with the same end result I know the quality is prob. better with the 1up but dam decisions,decisions especially reading all these positive reviews.

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