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  1. #2901
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    Yea with one of those you could break a bike out of any rack

  2. #2902
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    ok, I ordered this thing after 2 years of drooling. What size u lock are you guys for those of you locking and securing the rack with a u around the hitch and rack?

  3. #2903
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    ok, I ordered this thing after 2 years of drooling. What size u lock are you guys for those of you locking and securing the rack with a u around the hitch and rack?
    It's going to depend on your hitch and bumper configuration and vary from car to car.

    J.

  4. #2904
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    ok, I ordered this thing after 2 years of drooling. What size u lock are you guys for those of you locking and securing the rack with a u around the hitch and rack?
    The newer models allow you to place a lock in front of the bolt that holds the rack in the receiver. This will help keep the rack from being stolen, but does not secure it from falling out of the receiver, you could use a velcro strap for that. If you want to secure the rack to the hitch and prevent the rack from falling out the receiver, you can use an U lock. JohnJ80 is correct, the size of the U lock that will fit varies from car to car. I suggest waiting until you install it on your hitch and then make some measurements.

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    I have a lock from back in my motorcycle days. The site I bought it from is now a lot bigger and deals in several locks. Many are not cheap but a good lock means they may have to saw through the rack to get the bike and that will draw too much attention and take too much time. I rarely have my bike on the rack somewhere where I can't see it but I do carry the ABUS Granit Steel O Flex 1000/100. Below is the site. It is owned by a motorcyclist. There are several locks. I prefer running it through the frame and a thick part of the rack.

    Security Products - Motorcycle Locks & Security - Lockitt.com

  6. #2906
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    It's going to depend on your hitch and bumper configuration and vary from car to car.

    J.
    Good point

  7. #2907
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdb View Post
    The newer models allow you to place a lock in front of the bolt that holds the rack in the receiver. This will help keep the rack from being stolen, but does not secure it from falling out of the receiver, you could use a velcro strap for that. If you want to secure the rack to the hitch and prevent the rack from falling out the receiver, you can use an U lock. JohnJ80 is correct, the size of the U lock that will fit varies from car to car. I suggest waiting until you install it on your hitch and then make some measurements.
    Yea I saw that but just figured might as well kill two birds with one stone

  8. #2908
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Yea I saw that but just figured might as well kill two birds with one stone
    The problem with the ulock unless you get it exactly the right size a determined thief could just unbolt the rack from the hitch portion, slip the ulock to one side and then remove the rest of the rack from the hitch, especially if you have to install the rack not fully inserted. A thief can loosen the bolt and slide the rack further in, making it easier to slip the ulock. I leave my rack on all the time so it ends up in more places where a thief would have time to work on it. My ulock is too long, but it will at least slow a thief down. Nothing is theft proof, the best you can do is make it hard enough that the thief will move on to something easier.

  9. #2909
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-trailerlock.jpg

    I dont follow you at all with the removing it and sliding it off aspect unless you are talking about disassembling the rack? It seems to me that u locking the rack the way pictured would be as secure as anything. All locks can be beaten. Like stated before, its a deterrent, a u lock sticking out like that seems to me it would be a good deterrent. I do wonder if it would slide around and make a lot of noise though.

    Do you get a separate email when the rack ships with tracking info?

  10. #2910
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	TrailerLock.jpg 
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    I dont follow you at all with the removing it and sliding it off aspect unless you are talking about disassembling the rack? It seems to me that u locking the rack the way pictured would be as secure as anything. All locks can be beaten. Like stated before, its a deterrent, a u lock sticking out like that seems to me it would be a good deterrent. I do wonder if it would slide around and make a lot of noise though.

    Do you get a separate email when the rack ships with tracking info?
    This is exactly how I secure my rack to the hitch. The U-lock I use is rubber coated so I don't hear any rattling from inside the car. Also, I use a shorter lock so there isn't that much gap between the rack and the "locking" part of the lock so even if you disassemble the rack, with the still in the hitch you can't swing or slide the lock around enough to clear the rack. As many have said, it's not 100% but is a deterrent and it does keep an honest man honest.
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  11. #2911
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    I just don't understand what you guys mean when you say move it enough to "clear" the rack?

    wouldn't you have to unlock or cut the u lock in order to remove the rack?

    I mostly want a lock as a deterrent and it seems the u lock would also serve the purpose the velcro strap does in keeping the rack from falling off in the event of failure.

  12. #2912
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.

    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	TrailerLock.jpg 
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    I dont follow you at all with the removing it and sliding it off aspect unless you are talking about disassembling the rack? It seems to me that u locking the rack the way pictured would be as secure as anything. All locks can be beaten. Like stated before, its a deterrent, a u lock sticking out like that seems to me it would be a good deterrent. I do wonder if it would slide around and make a lot of noise though.

    Do you get a separate email when the rack ships with tracking info?
    I think he means you can unbolt the front crossmember of the rack from the rest of the hitch thereby removing the hitch and bikes from the locked portion. I wonder if a long cable lock going around the bikes and other parts of the rack plus hitch would be a better solution. That being said, nothing is foolproof as stated above.

    I received a confirmational email when it shipped with a tracking number.

  13. #2913
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    Yes, a63vette is correct, that is what I meant. With the newer racks, I would use the padlock in front of the bolt to "lock" the rack to the hitch. I would also use a ulock to secure the hitch from sliding out of the receiver. You can also use the same ulock to secure a chain to the bike frame to lock up the bike. I use a kryptonite New York noose 1213 chain. I use a separate padlock to secure the chain to the hitch, not the rack, mainly because the ulock I use is ancient and is there as more of a deterrent and to keep the rack from sliding out of the receiver, if the receiver bolt ever loosened up. I think I received a confirming email when it shipped with a tracking number, but it's been awhile.

  14. #2914
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    Just got my Rack and am very happy. If you use a u-lock you can use black electrical tape to secure it and stop it from rattling.

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    Quote Originally Posted by david101372 View Post
    I've read a few reviews complaining of poor customer service and while I understand their frustration, my 2 experiences (first for the HD 2" rack, and second for the fat bike spacer kit) have been fantastic.
    I ordered the spacer kit online Monday and FedX dropped them at my door on Wednesday for a $2 shipping charge.
    Thanks again 1upUSA!
    I paid a lot for my rack to be shipped to Canada. Then decided to buy two locks. $38 for the locks and $36 for shipping. I hate FedEx into Canada. USPS would be a fraction of that. If you are buying outside the lower 48 get everything at once.

  16. #2916
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    Just shooting an idea out....Is there a reason you couldn't use something like this to lock the bike on the rack by preventing the arms from spreading to release it? I'm talking about the 5 min grocery store runs etc, obviously not the most secure way but honestly, i dont like leaving the bike on the rack for more than the local run into a store real quick anyway.

    Also I dont know if this spreads wide enough to accommodate the 1 up. More interested in the design of it.

    https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9574153/00020

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  17. #2917
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Just shooting an idea out....Is there a reason you couldn't use something like this to lock the bike on the rack by preventing the arms from spreading to release it? I'm talking about the 5 min grocery store runs etc, obviously not the most secure way but honestly, i dont like leaving the bike on the rack for more than the local run into a store real quick anyway.

    Also I dont know if this spreads wide enough to accommodate the 1 up. More interested in the design of it.

    https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9574153/00020

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    Interesting. I'll have to try it. I happen to have one of those steering wheel locks in my garage somewhere. I don't need it now since my car has the best anti-theft device.... a manual transmission. Oh wait, that's not a steering wheel lock. That's a brake to steering wheel look. Got to do some measuring on the rack.
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  18. #2918
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    I guess a simple way to beat it would be to let the air out the tires of the bike which would allow you to pull the arms closer together and get the lock off

  19. #2919
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    I guess a simple way to beat it would be to let the air out the tires of the bike which would allow you to pull the arms closer together and get the lock off
    Or what you can do is turn the lock 90° and have one hook on the top tube of the bike and the bottom hook on the bottom of the tray. Again, without dimensions I don't know if this is possible.
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  20. #2920
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    interesting thought.

  21. #2921
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    I simply use a Krytonite cable lock that goes through the chain hole in my trucks receiver hitch and it passes through the bikes back wheel and frame. Sure someone could cut the cable but hopefully they aren't walking around with huge bolt cutters.

    Last edited by garysol1; 01-08-2016 at 07:53 PM.

  22. #2922
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    Here is possibly one of the best pictures I've taken of my bike on the one up despite the fact the rack cannot be seen and there is very little you can tell about the bike

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    Quick question: How many add-ons have people put on the standard 1-up? I'd like to have 3 slots and I'd like to be able to put the rack on my wifes honda (1-1/4" hitch) as well as my Tahoe. I didn't see any reference on their site to adding more than 1 ad-on to the standard duty rack.

  24. #2924
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    Not sure about a 1-1/4" hitch, but the standard rack when first released was spec'ed for 3 add ons (4 slots) in a 2" hitch. 1up backed off the spec to two add ons (3 slots) at some point in a 2" hitch with the standard rack. I think for a 1.25 " hitch you might be hitting the tongue weight limit with 3 slots, fully loaded with bikes, although I am not sure. Would depend on the weight of the add ons combined with the weight of the bikes. Hopefully someone with a 1.25" hitch can comment.

  25. #2925
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    With the 1.25" version you're allowed 2 additional add ons (3 bikes total) per 1UP USA when I asked them.
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  26. #2926
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    Quote Originally Posted by notso View Post
    Quick question: How many add-ons have people put on the standard 1-up? I'd like to have 3 slots and I'd like to be able to put the rack on my wifes honda (1-1/4" hitch) as well as my Tahoe. I didn't see any reference on their site to adding more than 1 ad-on to the standard duty rack.
    Originally, 1UpUSA sold what today is the 1.25" rack with an adaptor for either a 1.25 or a 2" receiver. That is the rack I bought and I bought it with three add on kits.

    The reason for moving to a 1.25 and a 2" rack with separate load ratings is ultimately because the hitch ratings are different and a 1.25" receiver load limit is the limiting factor.

    I have logged many, many thousands of miles on our rack with 4 bikes in it mounted to a 2" hitch even though is the same rack as the 1.25" one offered today.

    J.

  27. #2927
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Originally, 1UpUSA sold what today is the 1.25" rack with an adaptor for either a 1.25 or a 2" receiver. That is the rack I bought and I bought it with three add on kits.

    The reason for moving to a 1.25 and a 2" rack with separate load ratings is ultimately because the hitch ratings are different and a 1.25" receiver load limit is the limiting factor.

    I have logged many, many thousands of miles on our rack with 4 bikes in it mounted to a 2" hitch even though is the same rack as the 1.25" one offered today.

    J.
    John, I've had my 1-¼" single with the 2" adapter for about 3 years now and seeing how they're made and the quality of material used I had no doubt it will handle 3 add-ons (4 bikes total) but when I was seeking to get add-ons I had this very concern so I asked 1UP USA how many I can add without compromising safety and warranty and they told me I can have up to 2 add-ons (3 bikes total), even when you're using the 2" adapter mounted to your 2" receiver hitch. That's not to say having 3 add-ons isn't doable. Just that in case anything happens that won't be covered under 1UP USA's warranty and if the failure caused any damage to someone else's vehicles then you'll be liable since you're operating beyond the manufacturer's recommendation. Also, you have to consider the stress limits of a 1-¼" receiver hitch on your car versus the stronger 2" hitch as you mentioned. Just throwing it out there.
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  28. #2928
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    When my rack was sold, the 4 bike set up was the advertised use of the rack and for the warranty that came with the rack. There has been no recall and replacement so I believe the original warranty and spec still applies. Of course, if I used it in a 4 bike set up on a 1.25" receiver, then I would be exceeding the spec on the receiver which would be on me.

    So, I'll continue to use it in the manner and for the purpose in which it was sold.


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  29. #2929
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    When my rack was sold, the 4 bike set up was the advertised use of the rack and for the warranty that came with the rack. There has been no recall and replacement so I believe the original warranty and spec still applies. Of course, if I used it in a 4 bike set up on a 1.25" receiver, then I would be exceeding the spec on the receiver which would be on me.

    So, I'll continue to use it in the manner and for the purpose in which it was sold.


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    That is true for your situation, but for people asking about the rack now, the official recommendation is a limit of 2 add-ons. So if someone gets a single rack, then 3 bikes max, or 4 bikes total if starting with a double rack. Their explanation to me is that the add-ons are held on by two bolts. The second add-on increases the stress on the first add-on's bolts. A third add-on would increase the stress on that first add-on's bolts so much they could shear off. I imagine that 3 road bikes or ultra-light XC bikes (on 3 add-ons) would be OK, but I might be nervous about heavy kids bikes, fat bikes, or DH bikes.
    Perhaps a mini-U lock shackling the main rack to the first add-on would be a security blanket in case the bolts failed. The add-ons and bikes would still hit pavement and drag, but at least they would stay with you rather than going through the windshield of the car following behind.

  30. #2930
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    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    Perhaps a mini-U lock shackling the main rack to the first add-on would be a security blanket in case the bolts failed. The add-ons and bikes would still hit pavement and drag, but at least they would stay with you rather than going through the windshield of the car following behind.
    If it were me, I'd just add a 3rd bolt to the 1st add-on for insurance.
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  31. #2931
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    I tried the u lock to hitch set up and found it too clunky. chain run through a tube and cut to size seems to be a good deal. very little movement and it's not hanging low

  32. #2932
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    If it were me, I'd just add a 3rd bolt to the 1st add-on for insurance.
    I don't think that's where the concern is... or at least the only concern. I'm more worried abut the weld at the 1-¼" receiver bar and the strength of the bar itself. When you start to pile on the add-ons and essentially adding to the length of the rack you're creating a longer moment arm. Add the weight of 4 bikes on that bouncing around is just scary to me. Also, when aluminum fails it's catastrophic, meaning it just snaps. Not like steel where it's more gradual.
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  33. #2933
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    Works on travel trailers too

    Mounted a 2" receiver model with two add ons...only three bikes used in this picture. The aluminum matches nicely. 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-dscf0796.jpg1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-dscf0798.jpg

  34. #2934
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I don't think that's where the concern is... or at least the only concern. I'm more worried abut the weld at the 1-¼" receiver bar and the strength of the bar itself. When you start to pile on the add-ons and essentially adding to the length of the rack you're creating a longer moment arm. Add the weight of 4 bikes on that bouncing around is just scary to me. Also, when aluminum fails it's catastrophic, meaning it just snaps. Not like steel where it's more gradual.
    Well, if your that worried you ought to be inspecting the welds each use or every 100 miles or something. It won't be like carbon fibre-bam... You'll see the first couple cracks...

  35. #2935
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony View Post
    Well, if your that worried you ought to be inspecting the welds each use or every 100 miles or something. It won't be like carbon fibre-bam... You'll see the first couple cracks...
    I don't need to because I don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended load. Actually I only carry 2 bikes at the most. 90% of the time I'm only carrying 1 bike.
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  36. #2936
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    How cumbersome is it to use the four bike version? With the release bar under the tilt mechanism, it seems that it would be less than convenient to operate it with four trays attached.

    We currently own the Swagman XTC-4 (http://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross-.../dp/B000GKN45C) and have used it on many long trips. The bikes were always held securely. However, it is a pain to load the bikes and you have to take great care to not scratch the bikes. The ease of loading/unloading is what makes the 1UP USA rack attractive to me. Is it worth the significant cost of upgrading?

    Any advice you can offer is appreciated. Thanks.

  37. #2937
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    Its not horrible. My wife can accomplish it, but she doesn't like it; she has a bad shoulder. Much easier for her with just 3 trays. I don't give it a 2nd thought, but you do have to work out your technique. Its just a long stretch to grab the lever and the last tray at the same time.

    Edit to add.

    I had a swagman 4x before the one up. Its a night and day experience. With the swagman we used to take a picture after we got it successfully loaded so we could remember which bike went where, in which direction, with which hook. A new bike to integrate was a major PITA. With the 1up, its not worth your time to remember how you loaded it last because its so much easier to adjust to solve conflicts with bars and pedals.
    Last edited by Metamorphic; 02-23-2016 at 06:00 AM. Reason: Added

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    This is true for us also. In addition to the picture, we have a label on the rack frame that shows the location and direction of each bike. Even with all that, it is not easy to load four bikes. Thanks for your feedback.

    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    ... With the swagman we used to take a picture after we got it successfully loaded so we could remember which bike went where, in which direction, with which hook...

  39. #2939
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    Agree with Metamorphic, my wife hates the 4 bike 1 up but she's 5'4" and 90lbs with the reach to match. She has to have one of my kids crawl underneath to pull the latch so she and one of the other kids can lift the rack. She typically texts me a hateful message both before and after she has to load bikes onto the car, which is often as I'm a high school coach and both of my oldest kids are on the team. Anyway, I can do it pretty easily but I have to lean in from the side. I'm 6'2.5" and over 200 lbs so a significant difference. If you're somewhere in that range, adjust and plan accordingly.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  40. #2940
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    The only real issue is releasing the lock on the rack with the 4 bike set up. You can do it with one person (we do all the time), but it's much easier with 2. Presumably, if you have 4 bikes on the rack, you have *at least* one other person around. Then just have one person take the strain off the rack (pick up slightly) while the other releases the lock. Then just flip it up. Bringing the rack down is easily done with one person.

    I would think that with some creative fooling around, one could also easily do it with one person. For example, taking a piece of rope and running it from underneath the rack, over the locking bar, and then back to the back of the rack, by taking the load off the rear of the rack and pulling the rope, you could release the lock. That would make it simple to do with one person, even a small one.

    J.

  41. #2941
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    She typically texts me a hateful message both before and after she has to load bikes onto the car, which is often as I'm a high school coach and both of my oldest kids are on the team.
    Just keep telling her she has a "nice rack".

  42. #2942
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    She's actually been told that by quite a few people at mountain bike events, tongue in cheek, and she thinks it's hilarious.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

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    Anybody use the wheel savers? Thanks

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    I often wondered about how much of a pita it would be to tilt the rack down w/ 4 bikes. My cousin has a rack and the release lever is at the back of the rack, so tilting it up/down is super easy.

  45. #2945
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I often wondered about how much of a pita it would be to tilt the rack down w/ 4 bikes. My cousin has a rack and the release lever is at the back of the rack, so tilting it up/down is super easy.
    I guess I have yet to see a rack that was "easy" to tip down or up with 4 bikes on it.

    With the 1UpUSA rack, you can do it and it's relatively easy but moving a rack around with 4 bikes on it (lot of weight) is just ungainly no matter what. If I need to get into the back of our SUV, it's just easier and super fast to pop out the bike closest to the tailgate.

    J.

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    Does anyone have any long term reports on the black finish holding up in wetter climates, like the Pac NW? I have seen silver ones around, and they are holding up well.

    My vanity says go black, but common sense says silver.

  47. #2947
    mtbr member
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    My black rack has shown some signs of flaking. Limited exposure to elements last winter. A few weeks exposure this year. I just touch it up with paint marker. I prefer the black so I'll deal with it. It's not horrible. We do have over salted roads here in Michigan.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  48. #2948
    Your Best Friend
    Reputation: Silentfoe's Avatar
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    May 2008
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    My silver is flaking a little but that's after constant exposure for 2+ years, I never take it off. You can barely tell on the silver, I'll bet it really stands out on the black.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  49. #2949
    Well Biked
    Reputation: scepticshock's Avatar
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    Hi! I was wondering if anybody had experience using the 1Up rack on a 2014 Forester? It has an aftermarket 2" hitch installed ( not the factory one that comes through the bumper). My current older Thule T2 requires me to use an extender for my rack to clear the bumper. This causes it to stick out a lot, and its hard to keep tight. I would like to avoid that with my next rack. Thanks!

  50. #2950
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scepticshock View Post
    Hi! I was wondering if anybody had experience using the 1Up rack on a 2014 Forester? It has an aftermarket 2" hitch installed ( not the factory one that comes through the bumper). My current older Thule T2 requires me to use an extender for my rack to clear the bumper. This causes it to stick out a lot, and its hard to keep tight. I would like to avoid that with my next rack. Thanks!
    Since you have an aftermarket hitch installed, it may be hard for anyone to answer. If you can measure how far you need the rack to extend out from your hitch in order to clear your bumper, however, you can compared to my measurements below.

    When put to the minimum insertion (2" past the tightening ball), the rack gives you 3" of clearance for your bumper when the rack is folded up in the 90 degree position. You would get more clearance potentially if you would use the 45 degree folded position, but then it sticks out further behind your car. Oh, and their instructions said 2" past the tightening ball for the minimum insertion. They did not specify whether that was the center of the ball or the edge of it, so I played it safe. If you were to use the center of the ball, you'd get 3.5" of clearance. Hope that helps.

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