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  1. #2851
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    I am considering one of these, but I have full coverage fenders on one of my bikes, and even with the pad they give you, I still think it would break the fender or fender stays if I really clamped down on it. Not an issue in the front (it the arm will grab in front of the front fender) but it is an issue in the back.

    What I am wondering is if I could lightly clamp down on the rear just enough to gently touch the fender, but then use a strap at the bottom of the wheel to tightly secure it to the tray. I would be looking to the tray arm to just work as a guide to keep it upright.

    My thinking here is that a lot of racks just clamp the front wheel and strap the rear wheel to the tray, so this COULD work, but not having seen the design in the flesh I am just not sure.

    Thanks.
    Probably not the best for full fenders.

    What you could do, but you'd have to satisfy yourself that it worked well, would be to drop the cross piece in the wheel part down as far as it would go on the rear wheel. Leave the front one where it should be as long as it doesn't interfere with the front fender and close it appropriately. The would push the tire up against the rear stop that should now be on the tire (depending on the fit of the rack and how low the fender goes). Then put an old toe clip strap around the rear wheel and rack were it the tire sets on the rack.

    The other alternative would be to get some of those full coverage SKS fenders that a substantial but are designed to be removed quickly with a clip system. Then just take them off before you put the bikes on the rack and replace them when you put the bikes back on.

    J.

  2. #2852
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    Is my locking mechanism too tight or is this normal. I've only used it a few times now and got some markings. Will it loosen up?

    I should probably check what its doing to the grooves where its locked into when my bike is on.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_2534.jpg1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_2535.jpg

  3. #2853
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    ^^ mine does the same. it doesn't worry me

  4. #2854
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    It does break in with a little time.

  5. #2855
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Probably not the best for full fenders.

    What you could do, but you'd have to satisfy yourself that it worked well, would be to drop the cross piece in the wheel part down as far as it would go on the rear wheel. Leave the front one where it should be as long as it doesn't interfere with the front fender and close it appropriately. The would push the tire up against the rear stop that should now be on the tire (depending on the fit of the rack and how low the fender goes). Then put an old toe clip strap around the rear wheel and rack were it the tire sets on the rack.


    J.
    Thanks, this is the very solution I have been thinking about.

    I called 1up and the guy I talked to suggested that if If I could not clamp the fender hard enough to stabilize the bike that I could lower the part that grips the tire to below the fender. I actually found pics on someone's blog who did this.

    However, he did not seem to feel that I needed to strap the wheel to the tray. That does not make sense to me because I would be clamping the wheel just over halfway down, so it would be easy to pull it up out of the rack.

    I think what you are suggesting would work fine. The rack arm on the rear wheel would keep the bike from sliding back, and the strap would keep it from lifting.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  6. #2856
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Thanks, this is the very solution I have been thinking about.

    I called 1up and the guy I talked to suggested that if If I could not clamp the fender hard enough to stabilize the bike that I could lower the part that grips the tire to below the fender. I actually found pics on someone's blog who did this.

    However, he did not seem to feel that I needed to strap the wheel to the tray. That does not make sense to me because I would be clamping the wheel just over halfway down, so it would be easy to pull it up out of the rack.

    I think what you are suggesting would work fine. The rack arm on the rear wheel would keep the bike from sliding back, and the strap would keep it from lifting.
    When I put my bike with fenders on my rack, I lower the rear cones to the lowest position. That hits right in the center of my tire, level with the axle, and my bike will bounce out if it's not secured more (I've had it happen on a short drive wen I didn't bungee it tight enough). I use a bungee cord around the bottom of the wheel to hold it down.
    Matt

  7. #2857
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    Here's an update on my rack. Recap: After driving on a rough road, the rack got stuck in the hitch, and it was really difficult to get it out. The ball got stuck out.

    I was able to lightly tap on the ball with a hammer to get it to go most of the way back in. I added some grease to the ball so it wouldn't get stuck, and now it only gets lightly stuck if I press it out too far. But the ball still wouldn't go in far enough to get the rack on easily, even with heavily hammering and some C clamps.

    I took the mechanism apart as much as I could. It's hard with the ball pressed in and no access to anything and no idea how it works. It turns out that the screw pushes on a rod which pushes on the ball. The rod is about 1/2" diameter, maybe 6" long and appears to be the same metal as the security hex key and similarly gold finished. Over time the ball in mine dented the rod, which made a burr on the rod so it would no longer slide past the ball hole, so the ball would not retract all the way. I wanted to get the rod out to fix the end of it or replace it.

    Here's how to take it apart:
    Tighten the screw all the way to push the ball out, but no need to go too hard. The screw will bottom out, and that's what stops it from moving tighter. Now the ball should be far enough out (or almost far enough) that the rod can slide past it. Take the screw all the way out, and also take out the red plastic cap on the forward end of the rack. Insert a smooth metal rod through the screw hole and use it to push out the rod. The hex key will work in a pinch, but if you have to hammer it, it could damage the aluminum threads that the bolt threads into. I used a threaded rod because that's what I had lying around, but it definitely bent the threads in the screw hole a bit. If you can find a threaded rod with the same thread size as the bolt, or a longer bolt, that would work too, just thread it in. If everything is normal, you should be able to press the rod out without too much difficulty. In my case, I had to hammer it out because the burr on the rod made it not fit through the ball hole in either direction. I used a 3lb hammer to hit the threaded rod which pressed on the internal rod. But about an inch from the end it got really stuck, and no amount of hammering would move it. I could see some aluminum being pushed forward, so I tried to clear it out with a drill bit. I ended up drilling out the entire end of the internal metal rod. It was surprisingly easy to drill, probably soft metal. After that the rod slid out with minimal pressure. I ran the bolt through its threads a few times to restore the shape. That worked fairly well, but the correct size tap would have been a bit better for a smooth fit. The bolt and aluminum threads are surprisingly strong.

    I emailed 1upusa, and they are sending me a replacement inner rod ("pin"). They say they are case hardened now, so I won't have the same problem again. I bought mine in September 2011, and it sounds like there was a design change some time after that.

    Initially I was worried about how to lube the rack without attracting dirt or having it slide out. Having seen how it's greased from the factory, I'd recommend marine grease smeared everywhere inside the locking mechanism, and a light layer on the ball. WD-40 will wash the grease out over time, so I wouldn't use it. It's not clear if the internal pin is stainless, but if it corrodes that would be bad. The gold finish on mine, like the hex key, is probably a corrosion resistant finish, and I didn't see any trace of corrosion on it.

    To prevent this from happening, I'd suggest just tightening the expander mechanism enough to keep the rack from rattling, but not cranking down on it extremely hard. And if you see it come loose, make sure to tighten it right away. Bouncing around probably puts the most pressure on the ball. Use the velcro strap or something else to secure it from falling out.

    If you want to replace the expander ball mechanism with a regular hitch pin, it would be easy to do. Just take out the expander ball mechanism and drill a hole for the pin. You can even thread it with a tap for the correct size for an anti-rattle hitch pin, so you can retain the anti-rattle benefits. Just be aware that if you want an anti-rattle locking hitch pin for a 1 1/4" rack in a 2" hitch then you are asking too much. 1 1/4" locking anti rattle pins are too short, and 2" ones are too wide. Also note that because the 1 1/4" to 2" adapter piece pushes the rack into one corner, it might not be in the right place for a through bolt in a 2" hitch. I think the bar will be higher than the hole. I have an adaptable cargo carrier, and the 1 1/4" to 2" adapter piece centers it vertically so hitch pins still work.
    Matt

  8. #2858
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    Quote Originally Posted by m85476585 View Post
    To prevent this from happening, I'd suggest just tightening the expander mechanism enough to keep the rack from rattling, but not cranking down on it extremely hard. And if you see it come loose, make sure to tighten it right away. Bouncing around probably puts the most pressure on the ball. Use the velcro strap or something else to secure it from falling out.
    I think this is the key for using the rack. The whole purpose of the ball is to fit up in a corner of the receiver and create friction to prevent the rack from sliding out of the receiver. You don't need to reef down on the mechanism, it just needs to be tight.

    J.

  9. #2859
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    I have been going just snug with it, lifting the rack vertically, and taking up a touch more slack in the retention mech, going just snug. Thus far, this has worked just fine. Zero play, no loosening, and the whole car moves if I try to pull the rack out.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  10. #2860
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    So this is a pretty specific question. I have a 1988 4runner (1st gen) with a drop down (pickup truck style) tailgate. The talgate is pretty thick since it has to house the glass rear window. I currently have a Sherpa which does not allow me to drop the tailgate in any position which is a tremendous PITA.

    My question is how high does the rack extend from the top of the receiver hitch in the lowest folded position? I've seen the measurements on the site but they only give the measurement when the rack is upright.

    Better yet, has someone used one of these on a 1st or 2nd gen 4runner or older toyota pickup?

    Really want this to work, this is the lowest profile tray style rack I could find!

  11. #2861
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So this is a pretty specific question. I have a 1988 4runner (1st gen) with a drop down (pickup truck style) tailgate. The talgate is pretty thick since it has to house the glass rear window. I currently have a Sherpa which does not allow me to drop the tailgate in any position which is a tremendous PITA.

    My question is how high does the rack extend from the top of the receiver hitch in the lowest folded position? I've seen the measurements on the site but they only give the measurement when the rack is upright.

    Better yet, has someone used one of these on a 1st or 2nd gen 4runner or older toyota pickup?

    Really want this to work, this is the lowest profile tray style rack I could find!
    Sorry I can't help you with the info but I do love the 1st Gen 4runners.
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  12. #2862
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So this is a pretty specific question. I have a 1988 4runner (1st gen) with a drop down (pickup truck style) tailgate. The talgate is pretty thick since it has to house the glass rear window. I currently have a Sherpa which does not allow me to drop the tailgate in any position which is a tremendous PITA.

    My question is how high does the rack extend from the top of the receiver hitch in the lowest folded position? I've seen the measurements on the site but they only give the measurement when the rack is upright.

    Better yet, has someone used one of these on a 1st or 2nd gen 4runner or older toyota pickup?

    Really want this to work, this is the lowest profile tray style rack I could find!
    When the rack is the horizontal position (ready to put bikes on it, but arms folded), the 1st trays arms are 8-8.5" inches above the top of the rack's receiver. If you do 2 trays, the second tray is higher and is about 11-11.5" above the rack's receiver. That is starting about 19-20" out from the hitch, so if the tailgate extends out less than that, it will only overlap the 1st tray. When the rack is in the dropped down position (ie, so that if I bike were on it, it would be leaning away from the truck to allow trunk opening with bikes on it), the highest point is about 6" above the top of the rack's receiver. Sorry I took these measurements pretty quickly, so if they are really close for tolerances, let me know and I'll repeat them.

  13. #2863
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    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    When the rack is the horizontal position (ready to put bikes on it, but arms folded), the 1st trays arms are 8-8.5" inches above the top of the rack's receiver. If you do 2 trays, the second tray is higher and is about 11-11.5" above the rack's receiver. That is starting about 19-20" out from the hitch, so if the tailgate extends out less than that, it will only overlap the 1st tray. When the rack is in the dropped down position (ie, so that if I bike were on it, it would be leaning away from the truck to allow trunk opening with bikes on it), the highest point is about 6" above the top of the rack's receiver. Sorry I took these measurements pretty quickly, so if they are really close for tolerances, let me know and I'll repeat them.
    Great info! I really appreciate it. I will have to take my own measurements tonight but I'm pretty sure the 1up will work for me at least in the folded position. It would be sweet if I could access the tailgate with bikes still on but I don't think any rack can do that short of a swing out top-tube rack and I'm never going back to one of those.

    Too bad 1up doesn't do a cyber Monday sale!

  14. #2864
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Great info! I really appreciate it. I will have to take my own measurements tonight but I'm pretty sure the 1up will work for me at least in the folded position. It would be sweet if I could access the tailgate with bikes still on but I don't think any rack can do that short of a swing out top-tube rack and I'm never going back to one of those.

    Too bad 1up doesn't do a cyber Monday sale!
    Should work. We've had two cars with tailgates and it hasn't been a problem. Plenty of clearance.

    J.

  15. #2865
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    Well with the Kuat Sherpa I have on there currently, the lowest I can get it is about 10.5" above the top of the receiver and that's with one of the plastic wheel supports removed making it a single rack. I think the 1up should work but I just wish I had gone with it in the first place.

  16. #2866
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    I'm purchasing a 1up over the holidays. For those of you who own these racks--what add-ons (from1up) or other accessories have you purchased after you initially bought your rack that you wished you had known you needed and purchased at the time you first bought your rack? I'm thinking things like locks (either 1up's wheel/rack locks or aftermarket), the plastic wheel holders, straps, cables, etc...I'd like to get everything in 1 or 2 purchases so I'm not already using this by the time I realize something like, "oh I really need a lock there and now I have to go get one". Thanks all!

  17. #2867
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    If you're planning on getting a fat bike, or already have one, then get the fat bike adapter. You can still carry around your skinny tire bike with the adapter on.
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  18. #2868
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    If you're planning on getting a fat bike, or already have one, then get the fat bike adapter. You can still carry around your skinny tire bike with the adapter on.
    Nope, no fat bike and no plans to get one. But thanks for the info!

  19. #2869
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.

    Just got mine with 2 extenders - wow it's beautiful. Very impressive and great design. Great people to deal with, fast shipping. Well worth the money.Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449345916.833017.jpg
Views: 677
Size:  127.1 KBName:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449345932.997620.jpg
Views: 684
Size:  105.9 KBName:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449345943.552745.jpg
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Size:  132.8 KB I got the key lock and krypton lock from 1up with it

  20. #2870
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    I just installed my 1up rack on Fusion. This rack is awesome - it literally takes seconds to load/unload my Fatboy. One question I have is bike wobble normal in this rack? I know it is not going to fall out just seems like there wouldn't be as much movement driving down the road.

  21. #2871
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    The rack attaches to your bike via the tires, ie rubber filled with air. It will have a small amount of movement. You can tighten the arms down more but some movement will always be there.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  22. #2872
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    I tried searching the thread, but too many results came back about ensuring the rack stays in the hitch... and not what I want to figure out:

    I'm thinking of getting the wheel locks that 1up sells ($19, a regular length and extended length for fat bikes):

    Name:  wheellock2.jpg
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    I understand this isn't a cure all to prevent my bike getting stolen, but I've found that I've ran into stores or restuarants after riding and I'm very anxious about my bike not having any kind of lock to the rack/car. I am liking 1up's version as it's compact, and I can just keep it in my console rather than have a longer chain and lock or u-lock.

    Couple of questions:

    have the fat bike extensions, so I'll at least need the longer version of this lock. Any reason it wouldn't work with the non-fat bike kit installed? I shouldn't need both versions, right? I usually swap back to the regular sized kit during the summer.

    - anybody have this and absolutely not recommend it?

  23. #2873
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    You won't need both versions. They work great.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  24. #2874
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    haven't owned a rack yet but i'm planning to since i'm stuffing up the rear of the car with my bike instead of having more cargo space...

    what i like about this rack are:
    - absence of the plastic bits, which break easily and deteriorate over time
    - foldable when not in use
    - not chiwanese (no harm intended)

    what do not like:
    - doesn't have a 'lock' for the bike unlike the traditional ones that have beams retracting at the top tube and/or the wheel(s), which secure it with a key
    - assembly screws and bolts are presented (perhaps loctite will help)
    - quite costly compared to competitors

    now, for 1up, i was thinking, perhaps a chain wrapped around the bb and wheels through the platform will 'deter' unwanted personalities. something like the one below...



    now tell me, in your experience why i shouldn't get this rack...

  25. #2875
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    I've read a few reviews complaining of poor customer service and while I understand their frustration, my 2 experiences (first for the HD 2" rack, and second for the fat bike spacer kit) have been fantastic.
    I ordered the spacer kit online Monday and FedX dropped them at my door on Wednesday for a $2 shipping charge.
    Thanks again 1upUSA!
    If you make something idiot proof, someone will make a better idiot !

  26. #2876
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    Where are you purchasing the quick rack? Does anyone offer a discount on the rack or is it a 'fixed' price?

  27. #2877
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kai_Jordyn View Post
    Where are you purchasing the quick rack? Does anyone offer a discount on the rack or is it a 'fixed' price?
    You can only order it direct from 1up USA and the price is fixed.
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  28. #2878
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    Thanks for the information. I'll be ordering today...just wanted to make sure I didn't spend extra money when I didn't need to do so. Have a great day! KJ

  29. #2879
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    Update- I ordered the rack from them via telephone a short while ago. Very nice to deal with and very fast...said that they'll ship tomorrow. Since I'm in Illinois, I should have it on the 24th or so. It'll come in handy as we're looking to make a trip south over the holidays.

  30. #2880
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post

    now tell me, in your experience why i shouldn't get this rack...
    ---------
    As a 1Up USA owner, I can not think of a reason in the world why you 'shouldn't' get this rack !
    don't tell me, "Show Me " !

  31. #2881
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    Quote Originally Posted by jp08865 View Post
    ---------
    As a 1Up USA owner, I can not think of a reason in the world why you 'shouldn't' get this rack !
    ^this.

    I should have saved myself a lot of money and just gotten this rack right out of the gate.

    J.


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  32. #2882
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    Do any of you have experience with the wheel locks they sell? worth it or just use some other form of lock when you need to run into a store

  33. #2883
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Do any of you have experience with the wheel locks they sell? worth it or just use some other form of lock when you need to run into a store
    I use a cable lock. With that I'm able to not only lock the bike (frame and wheels) to the rack but also the rack to the hitch.
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  34. #2884
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Do any of you have experience with the wheel locks they sell? worth it or just use some other form of lock when you need to run into a store
    I asked about this just upthread, and only got one response (they said they work great). I just ordered one, but with the knowledge that this might won't deter a determined and professional thief. I got it just to be able to lock the wheels and run into a store really quick and get rid of some of the anxiety of having an unlocked bike on my car.

    I got this over a cable lock because I think cable locks are so ubiquitous that thieves are well prepared to deal with them. I'm hoping 1up's wheel lock is unique that they'd move along when seeing it. I didn't want to get some mongo chain to deal with either, as the easy to store nature of 1up's wheel lock appeals to me.

    but... I haven't gotten the lock yet. so I don't actually know how it will work in the real world, including its affect on my anxiety levels.

    One other thing, I would bet that there are some chain/cables/locks that offer some time of reimbursement if your bike gets stolen while locked with their product. I couldn't find any information 1up provides such a service.

  35. #2885
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    another question I have, are ALL the parts aluminum or zinc? Meaning if left on the car during rain&snow will various bolts begin to rust and just the platform will be ok?

  36. #2886
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    I believe all the parts and hardware are either aluminum or stainless steel. I say this because I've left mine out on the hitch for the entire riding season thru rain (no snow) and there's no signs of rust.
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  37. #2887
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    Ditto, no rust. I just took mine off this morning because it is supposed to snow overnight and they will be putting down salt. It has been on the car since early spring. I would avoid salt exposure and be sure to rinse it off if you do have to drive on a treated road.

  38. #2888
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    Thanks. I don't have a garage and I typically try and ride 3 times a week so it's a giant pita to remove the Thule double track rack I currently have. 99 percent of the time I only need 1 tray so I'm thinking 1 up would be ideal bc I could leave it on and since it's folds up and is light it wouldn't be a big deal to take it off when it snows. maybe even just throw it in the trunk

  39. #2889
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    maybe even just throw it in the trunk
    That's exactly what I'd do... throw it in the trunk.
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  40. #2890
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    I don't have a garage either. I have two 1up racks for each of my cars. They live on the cars and are perfectly fine.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  41. #2891
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    I don't have a garage either. I have two 1up racks for each of my cars. They live on the cars and are perfectly fine.
    Do you ever drive on salt treated roads? I wonder if I am being overly cautious?? Not a big deal, once the snow flies it might as well stay in the garage, I don't own a fat bike, so riding is over once we have snow cover.

  42. #2892
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    I'm in Utah so yes. My car actually looks like crap right now and it makes me sad. I wash it pretty frequently in the winter to help.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  43. #2893
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    All the parts are aluminum, the fasteners on mine are not stainless steel, they are cadmium plated. They show NO signs of rust after being out in the weather for 3 years. I'll remove it come winter, loosed one bolt, take off the Velcro strap, pull it out of the receiver, fold it up and store it in the trunk in less than 5 minutes . Luv it..
    don't tell me, "Show Me " !

  44. #2894
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    Another nice thing is that all the wearable parts are replaceable - not sure if they'll wear, but for instance the "teeth" that hold the tension come right out with a few bolts. These racks are built for the long haul.

  45. #2895
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    well I won my fantasy football league last night so I'm ordering it today.

  46. #2896
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    Not really sure what to say about the accessories. Personally I find it contradictory that they sell a wheel saver saying that if you have a fat bike spacer this allows you to carry smaller wheels but in the fat bike spacer description they say they wont need the original hardware b/c you can carry any bike with the fat bike spacer installed? So which is it?

    Also debating their locks. I'm leaning towards not doing that. I think a u lock from the hitch to the rack makes sense b/c it serves the purpose of security and wont allow the rack off if the hitch ball thing fails. The wheel lock seems kinda cheesy and I think I would be just as likely to throw a chain around it

  47. #2897
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Not really sure what to say about the accessories. Personally I find it contradictory that they sell a wheel saver saying that if you have a fat bike spacer this allows you to carry smaller wheels but in the fat bike spacer description they say they wont need the original hardware b/c you can carry any bike with the fat bike spacer installed? So which is it?

    Also debating their locks. I'm leaning towards not doing that. I think a u lock from the hitch to the rack makes sense b/c it serves the purpose of security and wont allow the rack off if the hitch ball thing fails. The wheel lock seems kinda cheesy and I think I would be just as likely to throw a chain around it
    I have the fat bike spacer kit on mine and still carry my 29er and it does the job without needing a wheel saver. As for locks, I use a cable or U-lock.
    2013 Giant Trance X 29er 0
    2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet
    2016 Diamondback Catch 2

  48. #2898
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    I keep the fat bike spacers on at all times and can carry everything from a road bike to a 5 inch fat bike. I have a u lock to keep the rack secured to the car and I use the wheel locks to secure bikes to the rack. They work great. Any lock is just a time deterrent to a random thief. A determined thief will get your bike no matter what. I also occasionally use a cable lock but it's a bit more of a hassle. The only thing I don't like about the wheel locks is that they each use a different key. I had my daughter color code all of them with finger nail polish. Works well enough.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  49. #2899
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    I feel like they could make something almost like "the club" that would not allow you to separate the arms

  50. #2900
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    I feel like they could make something almost like "the club" that would not allow you to separate the arms
    Easy to separate the arms with one of these:Name:  885911255004lg.jpg
Views: 506
Size:  29.0 KB


    Take about 10 seconds.

    J.

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